spazomatic
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Posts posted by spazomatic
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What kind of problems have y'all run into with mounting at the crossmember, after lengthening the strut rod?
I spaced mine out with washers (not even a thread left after the nut) and because of that I had to tweak the control arm mounts at the crossmember so the bushings werent all bound up.
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BFG ATs are a rugged tire and will handle most any type of abuse you can throw at 'em. They do ride a bit more stiff, but its an acceptable tradeoff. I use them as a summer tire for my 84 GL. This summer I put general grabber ATs on my 06 Baja and they seem to take abuse pretty well, though they arent as stiff, and dont weight as much as a BFG
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I highly recommend swapping to a weber. Its just a better carb. We just had a nice cold spell (-20 to 9 for a week) and my 84 still fired right up. Hit the gas once, turn the key, its running.
Its a relatively easy swap, but you may want to do some research, then find somebody local to lend a hand, since you havent had a lot of wrenching experience.
But, just adding a manual choke to the hitachi should help, if your hitachi is otherwise fine.
The block heater is an excellent idea too. Though i dont use one because its not consistently all that cold here in colorado.
I have studded Hankook Ipikes on my GL and cant recommend them enough. Excellent tire. I have a lot of mountain road hill climbing to do, and Im tellin ya, these tires make the car act like a mountain goat.
I always have weight in the back, but its in the form of tools, straps, come-a-long, tire chains, shovel, etc. maybe you could get a locking box and mount it in the bed to store stuff? Add weight and be useful too.
I do not envy your salt situation! Undercoat undercoat undercoat!
Good luck, have fun!
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that works for "most" applications....but not exhaust. it's gotta be a specialized, metal reinforced gasket.
Ill be sure to let my gaskets know that they dont work. They havent figured it out in the last 15k miles
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7/16 studs use a 11/16 nut.
Aftermarket nuts for the M10x1.25 will be 17mm head (subie nuts this size are 14mm head except lower starter nut is 17mm)
11/16 and 17mm are so close you could use the same socket for all.
Well then...6 of one, half dozen of another. Either way, its a drill and tap operation. Ive had real good luck with heli-coils, so thats what id do.
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Like these guys have said....what tires have you got on there? No matter what fancy doodads a car has; it all comes down to those 4 tiny points of contact at the road.
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Id use a helicoil. Then in the future you dont have to worry about an oddball size to grab a tool for. The heli-coil will be stronger than the original threads were.
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Go to a Napa or wherever, and just buy a sheet of gasket material. Then cut your own! Cheap and easy. I always keep gasket material around of various types for just such an occassion
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Where they get in is through an oblong hole in the front inner fenders. Use a piece of expanded metal to cover it. Simple green works pretty well to clean the coils in the heater
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Since it did it with both carbs, I'm gonna say it's not the carb. It's electrical.
Ignition switch.
My 84 Sedan does it and my 86 Brat too sometimes even kicks the starter for a moment when turning key off.
Turn it slowly, and it doesn't happen.
Oh neato, so i was actually maybe correct when i said i figured it felt like power was somehow making it to the coil after i turned the key off. I knew i wasnt crazy! Oh wait....
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Thank you! I have a 5spd layin around for when the 4 spd finally gives up...and ive been dreading doin the wiring. Not any more!
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Okay where does the return fuel line need to hook into? I am not following where it goes to and from
Put the fitting on the carb, and hook up the factory return line....
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Thats what sold me on Subarus. They are tough! I hope it keeps up for ya while you finish school. Nurses are awesome, welcome aboard!
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I had the same problem Lacy, fifuring that coolant needed to be there. mounted the weber and....coolant leak!
I drilled and tapped the hole, and used an allen head pipe plug, then leveled it off with JB weld. Done
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Put on my new Borla Y pipe, and got my 84 through emissions! Passed the dyno run, then they failed me on the stupid fuel cap. A couple days later went back with a new cap, and it passed on the dyno again (even though the guy always shifted too early, and even stalled it once...dumbass).
I even washed it, vacuumed it, blew it all out with air and wiped it all down inside. Ya never see how grungy its getting until you go to clean it!
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Sounds like the bearing is shot. What year's your ride?
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Hey snofool, why dont you just trim it up a bit? I think that size tire looks good on there. Nice proportions...
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If the shell of the cat is still on there it'll pass the visual. Whether it'll pass the tailpipe test or not, I dont know.
2 years ago, my EA81 passed with a weber and no cat, but it took 5 tries and finally passed by a very narrow margin. After it passed, i retuned the weber so that it ran better. This year, I need to pass emissions again...so Im searching for an intact cat.
My opinion...keep a cat on it. I felt no increase in performance by removing mine, and its more trouble than its worth to try and pass without it.
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Is my stock worth anything at all?
The throttle linkage comes in handy for the weber, as does the inlet fitting with the return line on it. After that...makes a pretty good paperweight
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Wow monstaru. Look up the word "tact" and try to practice it a bit.
Wanhanlu, he is partially right though. You are going to be sorely disappointed with a 3k lb winch. It wont pull very hard, and the line speed will not be able to keep up with what you need more of in situations like you describe: momentum. In the soft stuff, keep your speed up and you'll usually be okay.
Not to mention that harbor freight tools and hardware are crap. Theres a reason its so cheap!
You could also peruse websites like Warn or Milemarker to find info on the specifics of wiring it all up.
Good luck
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I saw one on the denver craigslist the other day...
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A better idea for negating the acidic effects of berdan primers is Windex. Ammonia is what neutralizes it, and windex has it, is cheap and doesnt smell as offensive.Probly piss poor condition with a pitted barrel too, beridian pimers... my suggestion to you is always hose the rifleing with WD40 right after your done shooting. Corrosive primers suck but it'll help keep her shiny.
Where you at so I get an idea of what the current values are elsewhere.
I wouldnt spend more than $120 on a 91/30 or 44 unless it was in primo condition, with optics.
On the upside, mosins are tough as nails and tend to shoot relatively accurate even with barrels that are less than perfect.
I wouldnt trade a decent brat for it...but would trade it for a decent brat!
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Thought id show off the bajas new shoes. General Grabber AT2s in 215x65-16
They ride just a tad rougher than the yokohamas that were on it, but are far grabbier in the dirt
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Ill stick this pic here. My 84GL, no lift and isuzu rims with 195x75-14 BFG ATs.
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Bolt-in EA series Alternator upgrade. Nissan Maxima alt installation guide.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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But the circuit still needs to be fused, even if less than 18"...which was skishop69s point I think.
And all this is presuming we are using wires up to the task anyway. Fuses should be sized to the component in the circuit