Micahgc

I'm looking to swap out my wheels on my 93 Loyale for some 15" Toyota rims. I haven't decided yet if i want to drill out the rims or re-drill my hubs, but before i do anything, how much will this affect my mileage? Its a SPFI 1.8 with everything factory. Runs good, and i get about 28-32 mpg now, any ideas what it might get with the heavier wheels? Thanks! Micah

Thanks for the replies. I was a little concerned it might be the radiator. I understand that 'flushing' it with a garden hose isn't really that effective, but when I did it the water came thru clean. It seemed to run right through, so I didn't think it was plugged at all, although I don't know how the volume of a hose compares to a water pump throwing coolant through. Is there any good tricks or kits to flush it at home, or do I need some special thing to do it right? Id like to try flushing it before spending the money on a new radiator, but what's your experience with this?

I have a 93 loyale that runs great, it idles smooth, has no issues around town, but when I get on the freeway it gradually runs hotter and hotter. It never goes above 1/2 on the temp gauge around town except rarely if its really hot and the ac is on, but its rare for it to even get warm then. However, anytime I drive on the freeway over about 60mph, it gradually warms up, and, in about 45 minutes gets up close to the red. Its done this since I bought it, and I can't figure it out. It now has a 185 t-stat, fan is grounded to run anytime the car is on, and the radiator and coolant system has been flushed a couple times with a hose--the fan helped, as I don't think it was even turning on before, but it still tries to overheat over 65. The things that's really throwing me is that it NEVER overheats around town.. every cooling issue I've messed with has been the opposite, where its a bigger problem at idle. its running about 3k rpm down the highway at 60 or 65, its a 5 speed manual as well. Would it help to swap out the belt driven fan for the ac for a high cfm electric fan wired with a thermostat? Id then have dual fans pulling air thru when its warm, it seems like it should make up the difference. It also seems, though, that Subaru would design their car to be able to get up to speed.. I'm confused, if anyone has ideas on what might be causing it, I really would appreciate the help!

GD is a dude-- I almost got to tear my clutch apart in your garage about a month ago, ended up at someone else's place doing it. Is your cat offer open to others? I just passed DEQ, so now its time to modifi-cate the exhaust, I have a good 2 years before i'll have to put back on an inline cat. Also, there's a Subaru only shop in Oregon City, Mountain Tech i think its called, its on 7th by Monroe. Nice guys, I picked up a CTS there to get my car through emissions. They seemed a little on the steep side for EA parts, but they were awesome about working with me on it.

Well.. drawn out project but made some progress on it. I've replaced the IAC valve with one from the junkyard, i pulled it open and cleaned it thoroughly with brake cleaner. I also pulled another EGR valve to replace mine, although I don't know how to test if this one is bad or not. Put both on, replaced the old vacuum line from the throttle body to the EGR, and took it through emissions; Failed worse than before. my HC went from ~300 to now around 500, and the other is still up around 3 when 1 is the limit. Looks like a pulled a bad EGR Valve, so i'm putting mine back on and rechecking the vacuum lines tonight after work. The idle is much more solid now, it very rarely fluctuates, and if it does it settles out on its own. Also, the idle is about 1k-1200, which still seems high to me. My mileage went down as well. For a 93 4x4 Loyalle, what should i expect for mileage? I got 23-25 lately I found on here how to test the IACV, CTS, 02 sensor, and maybe the EGR valve, although I don't know how to check it-- I will probobly swap on one from a toyota/honda. Any other ideas? I have about 4 more days to get this through DEQ before my trip permit is up.

Ya, i do have a DVOM, but what am i checking with that? I should have cleaned the IACV by now, but havn't.. Its been a crazy week. I'm going to pull it off tonight and clean it out. And yes, the CEL isn't working for sure, i'll have to get a new bulb this week. Can the IAC throw the 02 sensor code? Or is it likely more than just one thing?

Coolbeans, i finally got the codes.. I had the 2 green connectors together, they must be for the running diagnostic. I plugged in 2 white connectors and it blinked my my codes I knew it would be simple, i just didn't have things hooked up right. So, my codes are: 24- Air Control Valve or circuit 32- Oxygen sensor or circuit 34- EGR Solenoid or circuit Good and bad new i suppose, at least now i know what the problems are. More stupid questions though, where is the air control valve? I searched for pictures and info, found lots of cleaning tips, but i still don't know what i'm looking for. Its the IAC valve correct? what does it do? I can pull it off and clean it, but i really don't know what to take off zzz. Is there one of these i should start with, or are they separate enough systems that they probably all need to be replaced/checked?

snap, i'm in trouble sorry, yes i did read it, i just must have misunderstood what light i was looking for. Thank you though for the help, i'll check it out at lunch today, see if its blinking at me. I looked under there and didn't see anything, but I'm sure it was because i didn't look in the right spot. When i read the link you posted (i promise i did, i even printed it out and had it in my car) I must have confused it with the other posts I'd read. Seems like every post has a slightly different method, though its probably just for different models. I'll double check it, and good to know about the connectors. On my Loyale, then, the green connectors do both the running diagnostic and the display history codes? I'm assuming i must just have to connect them while the engine is off, than turn the key to 'on' and check the light on the ecu? also, really stupid question, but the ecu is under the dash, correct? ya.. my last car was a 64 nova, it doesn't quite have the same computer setup. As for my mechanical skills, well, i can replace parts like nobody's business.. I've just always worked on OLD cars.. so thanks for the patience EDIT: you aint kidding, that link has a big ol section that says its gunna flash the codes on the ecu.. dont mind me

And for a strange development-- I'm starting to think my CEL was disabled, its NEVER came on, even when car is 'on' but not started. Subaru's show the light here, don't they? also, when i hooked up the green connectors under the dash, turned the key on, nothing blinked.. anywhere. The codes are supposed to display through the check engine light, correct? The other trip is, as long as the green connectors are hooked up, it doesn't surge at idle.. in fact it idles about how its supposed to i'd think. Its about 1500 when i first stop, then gradually drops to around 1k. Why would having the diagnostics plugs hooked together affect its idle? It runs fine, doesn't seem to change anything but the idle. Is this normal/ok to have hooked up? more importantly, what might that be changing that makes it idle better? As for the CEL, is it a process to disconnect? If they took the bulb out, will i have to pull the gauge cluster to replace it? any tips here would be very appreciated, I'm hoping i dont have to tear my whole dash out for some morons quick fix..

Hurah! got the clutch replaced. It was a big job, mostly because once i tore it apart, the shiny new clutch kit was for a very good, very different car. I had to drive back to Portland from woodburne on saturday afternoon to track down a new one But, the good news is my flywheel was in great shape, i hit it with some emery cloth to get rid of any glazing (there wasn't really any) and put the new clutch kit in. Its working great now, that was definately a learning experience. Its nice to, because, although i've owned the car about a month, i now know where everything in the engine comparment is at.. Not that i'll be doing anything else to it thanks again though for the help and offers!

Thanks for all the info, that give me lots of places to look this weekend. I don't really think it has to do with my A/C, as it will do it whether its on or not-- It only happens once i put it in gear, and turning on the A/C or shutting it off once its happening doesn't stop it. The compressor makes a hit on the engine, so the surging slows for a few seconds, but it resumes as soon as the engine catches up with itself. Once it starts to surge, it wont stop until I've driven it a bit again and stop with it in neutral. Also, I've only had the car about a month. I don't know how long its had any of these issues, i knew they were there when i got it. When i failed emmisions, the limits are: H 200 C 1 I scored: H ~300 C `3 From what i've read, this means its running rich (?). I'll check the codes this weekend, I didn't think about them being in the memory. On my car, the connectors are on the engine side of the firewall, (I finally found them after searching under my dash for an hour) but I can only find a set of green connectors. From what i saw in the link, there should be green and black, and the black is what i need to connect to check history. Is this correct, or am I still confusing it with the later subies? I'll check again tonight, hopefully i can pull something. As far as whats been adjusted, I have no idea. I put in a new clutch last weekend, but apart from that, i haven't changed anything. I didn't disconnect any sensors, i just pulled the engine forward. This issue happened before I replaced it, too, so i know i didn't change anything.

I almost always have my defrost on, and hence the AC pump is running-- What did you end up finding with that? My car is factory FI (i'm not sure if its multi port or spfi) and factory.. well, everything. Is there another sensor involved that could cause the surging? So far IAC and TPS, anything else to check? also, could this be affecting my emmisions? I've had the car a little over a month and the CEL has never came on, so if i understand right, no codes will come up if i check-- right?

Thanks for the tips on it, i will try cleaning the IACV tonight after work. Its not sending any codes for the CEL, its never came on as long as i've had the car. I almost always have my HVAC on defrost, so my ac pump is running (i think..) however, i've tried it with the heater off, and the surge is the same. Heres a really dumb question, but does my 5 speed have a neutral switch? I didn't know that. I read about cleaning the IACV that if you use something that leaves a residue it can stick-- Wouldn't sea foam leave a residue? Have you all tried cleaning with this, or should i stick to brake cleaner?

AND.. why does USMB not return any useful results for 'idle surge' until i post my thread? now they show up in the simmilar threads. I'm getting frustrated.. however, i still didn't find an answer. EGR valve?