Micahgc

I'm looking to swap out my wheels on my 93 Loyale for some 15" Toyota rims. I haven't decided yet if i want to drill out the rims or re-drill my hubs, but before i do anything, how much will this affect my mileage? Its a SPFI 1.8 with everything factory. Runs good, and i get about 28-32 mpg now, any ideas what it might get with the heavier wheels? Thanks! Micah

Thanks for the replies. I was a little concerned it might be the radiator. I understand that 'flushing' it with a garden hose isn't really that effective, but when I did it the water came thru clean. It seemed to run right through, so I didn't think it was plugged at all, although I don't know how the volume of a hose compares to a water pump throwing coolant through. Is there any good tricks or kits to flush it at home, or do I need some special thing to do it right? Id like to try flushing it before spending the money on a new radiator, but what's your experience with this?

I have a 93 loyale that runs great, it idles smooth, has no issues around town, but when I get on the freeway it gradually runs hotter and hotter. It never goes above 1/2 on the temp gauge around town except rarely if its really hot and the ac is on, but its rare for it to even get warm then. However, anytime I drive on the freeway over about 60mph, it gradually warms up, and, in about 45 minutes gets up close to the red. Its done this since I bought it, and I can't figure it out. It now has a 185 t-stat, fan is grounded to run anytime the car is on, and the radiator and coolant system has been flushed a couple times with a hose--the fan helped, as I don't think it was even turning on before, but it still tries to overheat over 65. The things that's really throwing me is that it NEVER overheats around town.. every cooling issue I've messed with has been the opposite, where its a bigger problem at idle. its running about 3k rpm down the highway at 60 or 65, its a 5 speed manual as well. Would it help to swap out the belt driven fan for the ac for a high cfm electric fan wired with a thermostat? Id then have dual fans pulling air thru when its warm, it seems like it should make up the difference. It also seems, though, that Subaru would design their car to be able to get up to speed.. I'm confused, if anyone has ideas on what might be causing it, I really would appreciate the help!

GD is a dude-- I almost got to tear my clutch apart in your garage about a month ago, ended up at someone else's place doing it. Is your cat offer open to others? I just passed DEQ, so now its time to modifi-cate the exhaust, I have a good 2 years before i'll have to put back on an inline cat. Also, there's a Subaru only shop in Oregon City, Mountain Tech i think its called, its on 7th by Monroe. Nice guys, I picked up a CTS there to get my car through emissions. They seemed a little on the steep side for EA parts, but they were awesome about working with me on it.

Well.. drawn out project but made some progress on it. I've replaced the IAC valve with one from the junkyard, i pulled it open and cleaned it thoroughly with brake cleaner. I also pulled another EGR valve to replace mine, although I don't know how to test if this one is bad or not. Put both on, replaced the old vacuum line from the throttle body to the EGR, and took it through emissions; Failed worse than before. my HC went from ~300 to now around 500, and the other is still up around 3 when 1 is the limit. Looks like a pulled a bad EGR Valve, so i'm putting mine back on and rechecking the vacuum lines tonight after work. The idle is much more solid now, it very rarely fluctuates, and if it does it settles out on its own. Also, the idle is about 1k-1200, which still seems high to me. My mileage went down as well. For a 93 4x4 Loyalle, what should i expect for mileage? I got 23-25 lately I found on here how to test the IACV, CTS, 02 sensor, and maybe the EGR valve, although I don't know how to check it-- I will probobly swap on one from a toyota/honda. Any other ideas? I have about 4 more days to get this through DEQ before my trip permit is up.

Ya, i do have a DVOM, but what am i checking with that? I should have cleaned the IACV by now, but havn't.. Its been a crazy week. I'm going to pull it off tonight and clean it out. And yes, the CEL isn't working for sure, i'll have to get a new bulb this week. Can the IAC throw the 02 sensor code? Or is it likely more than just one thing?

Coolbeans, i finally got the codes.. I had the 2 green connectors together, they must be for the running diagnostic. I plugged in 2 white connectors and it blinked my my codes I knew it would be simple, i just didn't have things hooked up right. So, my codes are: 24- Air Control Valve or circuit 32- Oxygen sensor or circuit 34- EGR Solenoid or circuit Good and bad new i suppose, at least now i know what the problems are. More stupid questions though, where is the air control valve? I searched for pictures and info, found lots of cleaning tips, but i still don't know what i'm looking for. Its the IAC valve correct? what does it do? I can pull it off and clean it, but i really don't know what to take off zzz. Is there one of these i should start with, or are they separate enough systems that they probably all need to be replaced/checked?

snap, i'm in trouble sorry, yes i did read it, i just must have misunderstood what light i was looking for. Thank you though for the help, i'll check it out at lunch today, see if its blinking at me. I looked under there and didn't see anything, but I'm sure it was because i didn't look in the right spot. When i read the link you posted (i promise i did, i even printed it out and had it in my car) I must have confused it with the other posts I'd read. Seems like every post has a slightly different method, though its probably just for different models. I'll double check it, and good to know about the connectors. On my Loyale, then, the green connectors do both the running diagnostic and the display history codes? I'm assuming i must just have to connect them while the engine is off, than turn the key to 'on' and check the light on the ecu? also, really stupid question, but the ecu is under the dash, correct? ya.. my last car was a 64 nova, it doesn't quite have the same computer setup. As for my mechanical skills, well, i can replace parts like nobody's business.. I've just always worked on OLD cars.. so thanks for the patience EDIT: you aint kidding, that link has a big ol section that says its gunna flash the codes on the ecu.. dont mind me

And for a strange development-- I'm starting to think my CEL was disabled, its NEVER came on, even when car is 'on' but not started. Subaru's show the light here, don't they? also, when i hooked up the green connectors under the dash, turned the key on, nothing blinked.. anywhere. The codes are supposed to display through the check engine light, correct? The other trip is, as long as the green connectors are hooked up, it doesn't surge at idle.. in fact it idles about how its supposed to i'd think. Its about 1500 when i first stop, then gradually drops to around 1k. Why would having the diagnostics plugs hooked together affect its idle? It runs fine, doesn't seem to change anything but the idle. Is this normal/ok to have hooked up? more importantly, what might that be changing that makes it idle better? As for the CEL, is it a process to disconnect? If they took the bulb out, will i have to pull the gauge cluster to replace it? any tips here would be very appreciated, I'm hoping i dont have to tear my whole dash out for some morons quick fix..

Hurah! got the clutch replaced. It was a big job, mostly because once i tore it apart, the shiny new clutch kit was for a very good, very different car. I had to drive back to Portland from woodburne on saturday afternoon to track down a new one But, the good news is my flywheel was in great shape, i hit it with some emery cloth to get rid of any glazing (there wasn't really any) and put the new clutch kit in. Its working great now, that was definately a learning experience. Its nice to, because, although i've owned the car about a month, i now know where everything in the engine comparment is at.. Not that i'll be doing anything else to it thanks again though for the help and offers!

Thanks for all the info, that give me lots of places to look this weekend. I don't really think it has to do with my A/C, as it will do it whether its on or not-- It only happens once i put it in gear, and turning on the A/C or shutting it off once its happening doesn't stop it. The compressor makes a hit on the engine, so the surging slows for a few seconds, but it resumes as soon as the engine catches up with itself. Once it starts to surge, it wont stop until I've driven it a bit again and stop with it in neutral. Also, I've only had the car about a month. I don't know how long its had any of these issues, i knew they were there when i got it. When i failed emmisions, the limits are: H 200 C 1 I scored: H ~300 C `3 From what i've read, this means its running rich (?). I'll check the codes this weekend, I didn't think about them being in the memory. On my car, the connectors are on the engine side of the firewall, (I finally found them after searching under my dash for an hour) but I can only find a set of green connectors. From what i saw in the link, there should be green and black, and the black is what i need to connect to check history. Is this correct, or am I still confusing it with the later subies? I'll check again tonight, hopefully i can pull something. As far as whats been adjusted, I have no idea. I put in a new clutch last weekend, but apart from that, i haven't changed anything. I didn't disconnect any sensors, i just pulled the engine forward. This issue happened before I replaced it, too, so i know i didn't change anything.

I almost always have my defrost on, and hence the AC pump is running-- What did you end up finding with that? My car is factory FI (i'm not sure if its multi port or spfi) and factory.. well, everything. Is there another sensor involved that could cause the surging? So far IAC and TPS, anything else to check? also, could this be affecting my emmisions? I've had the car a little over a month and the CEL has never came on, so if i understand right, no codes will come up if i check-- right?

Thanks for the tips on it, i will try cleaning the IACV tonight after work. Its not sending any codes for the CEL, its never came on as long as i've had the car. I almost always have my HVAC on defrost, so my ac pump is running (i think..) however, i've tried it with the heater off, and the surge is the same. Heres a really dumb question, but does my 5 speed have a neutral switch? I didn't know that. I read about cleaning the IACV that if you use something that leaves a residue it can stick-- Wouldn't sea foam leave a residue? Have you all tried cleaning with this, or should i stick to brake cleaner?

AND.. why does USMB not return any useful results for 'idle surge' until i post my thread? now they show up in the simmilar threads. I'm getting frustrated.. however, i still didn't find an answer. EGR valve?

I've tried serching for this, but i'm not even sure what to put in the search field; I have a 93 Loyale EA82 5 speed. It runs great and seems to have normal power. However, when i stop when its warmed up, I stop in neutral (usually w/out the clutch pushed in once stopped) and the idle is around 12-1400 rpm. It fairly quickly switches down to ~1k rpm after I hear a click behind the dash (about the middle, seems like it comes from behind the clock in the dash). It sounds like a fan switch, but i dont know that could affect idle. I still can't tell for sure, but I think the surging only starts once i shift into first gear before taking off.. Pushing in the clutch doesn't make a difference, and nothing else i've tried has started the surging; when i put the clutch in and put it in first before taking off however, the idle surges up and down from about 900-1200 rpm while i'm stopped with my foot on the clutch. It doesn't hesitate or stall out (never has died) when i take off from the light, it just doesn't idle how it should. Also, once it starts surging, i can shift back to neutral and take my foot off the clutch, but the surge remains. It only goes away after I take off and stop somewhere else. Also, it may be related, (I have no idea how) but i failed emmisions here in Oregon. The limit was like 250, i scored 350. If anyone is more familliar with this i'm probobly way off, i dont have the paper with me. I was over on both HC and CO, both by around 100 if i remember correct.. are these related? is there a sensor i should clean/check/replace? I keep reading about the TPS, though none of the threads i found sounded like what my car is doing.. It idles good until i shift into first, and i don't know what senser that might affect.

Thank you all for the tips, i appreciate the input, looks like moving the engine ahead is the way to go.

I tried the search feature, but can't find the info i'm looking for: I'm swapping the clutch on my 93 Loyale 4x4, and have no idea what will be easier: the chilton manual says pull transaxle, but i've also been told i can do it by pulling the radiator, fans and starter then just lifting the engine forward until i can get to the clutch. Any experiance with this? which is actually easier? It seems like dropping the whole transaxle would be a lot more time consuming, but i've never done it before. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Thanks, but I just said it backwards. I loosened the adjustment by the shift fork almost all I could, which (if I understand right) tightens the clutch. Before, when I first got the car, you had to push the clutch WAY down, but all of the play where it would catch felt like the top 2 inches at most of travel.. I have it adjusted so it feels much more normal and it starts to catch about halfway up, plus the pedal doesn't feel like such a long distance to push it to the floor either now. I hope this is right, I've never had a cable clutch before, all I've done is bleed hydrolic clutches.. this seems about as easy (assuming I did it right)

Thank you both, i appreciate it! I just landed a place actually though, a friend of mine in woodburn has a spot in his garage with a cherry picker, so i think i'll head down that direction. GD, maybe i could still swing by to check out your EJ swap though, thats been on the back burner for me for a while, i'd like to see how its lookin!

I'm getting to the very end of the life of my clutch, I've got a 93 Loyale (EA82) that had a bad clutch when i bought it. I tightened up the cable (and bought a new one) but its not doing the trick. I knew i would have to replace it, but was hoping to put it off til mid March. Its looking more like i'll be stranded on the side of 26 heading towards beaverton one of these mornings. I need to get this fixed, though i've never changed a clutch before. I am very mechanical, i've fixed lots of different things on different cars, but i live in an apartment near clackamas, and a clutch isn't really a parking lot friendly project. so.. Does anyone have a garage with an engine hoist? I would be eternally grateful, and would be happy to bring pizza and beer I'll be studying up on my Haynes manual, but if someone wants to help out life would be oh so much easier. I've always worked with my dad on these projects before, but as they moved to Louisiana, its a little harder to go to his house and pull my car apart. If anyone is feeling excessively charitable, i really appreciate it! Also, if anyone has any tips on this, I'd love to hear them. Getting a how to from a book often leaves out the "life is easier if you do this" aspect. Thanks for the help!! thanks-- Micah

This is a great site, glad to know theres all this info. I just got a 93 Loyale in great shape, good old 5 speed wagon with 4wd. Should be a fun little project, I'm planning something like an antique WRX However, this is the super budget build (you all know what i mean) as I am a poor bachelor. I'll look forward to seeing y'all around!