syphon

I'd like to come, if you don't mind. I mean, I only helped lift 2 walls up, but still, I'd like to see the finished project

I didn't hang around when they were doin it. It was that guy that won the 3rd gen class, not sure what he was doin with the poor probe.

http://usmb.net/gallery/album146 There's my gallery with something like 400 pictures. This includes all the pictures I took with my camera plus the majority of the ones Noah took with his uber fancy camera (please note that all images have been down-sized to 640x480). I highly recommend you buy the Picture CD from Noah if you want the hi-res stuff. http://www.jayspang.com/pics/WCSS7/vids/ - Here's a link with the videos I took. I got quite a few of that guy's wagon Ramming the burned out Probe, plus one of him "mounting" it.

Who was that guy that showed us the video of the jump/subie destruction in progress?

You took a picture of me as I stumbled to the bathroom Saturday morning (I had been awake for about 30 seconds). Is that going to make it on the final CD?

Good to see you can make it Austin. It just wouldn't be the same without you there wearing that dorky "Real men wear pink" t-shirt

I will be there with my Legacy GT Wagon

Depending on the boost controller (Most of them are simple Manual ones) you cannot adjust the boost BELOW stock levels. You'll save gas if you adjust it down, but it wont run any better than it would stock. Also, I can't think of anything bad happening if you adjust the boost all the way down.

This problem escalated a tiny bit (it did it on the way home from work yesterday, which isn't any more heavy traffic than I face every day) so I decided to go ahead and order the parts listed on that service bulletin. 1stsubaruparts.com only charged me $69 for the slave cylinder, hose, and 2 gaskets. Let's hope the problem is only with my slave cylinder and not the master cylinder!

Huh, so according to that, the Master Cylinder isn't the culprit, it's the Clutch Operation Cylinder.

Can't believe I left that out, it's a '98 Legacy GT wagon, so yes indeed it's a hydraulic clutch

So let me first explain what happened to my car, then I'll tell you what I THINK happened, then we'll see if you guys agree. I got stuck in very heavy traffic on the way home the other day. For you Seattle people, I was in stop&go traffic on Montlake Blvd. all the way from the U-Village to 520, and then stop&go from 520 all the way across the bridge. What this boils down to... is that I was in stop&go for about an hour and a half, solid. 1.5 hours of nothing but slipping the clutch while in first to creep forward a few feet at a time. After about 50 minutes of this, my clutch started getting "softer". The clutch usually begins to engage at about 50% pedal, but now it was engaging at about 10% pedal. The clutch was fully engaged by about 20% from the floor. After an hour, my clutch was only using the bottom 20% of the pedal. I considered pulling over, but the car still drove perfectly fine (once I got up to speed, I felt no slippage of the clutch either). The clutch wasn't popping all the way back out (as it was fully engaged at about 20% pedal). I was really worried something was wrong with my clutch, but I finally got clear of the traffic and drove in 5th gear for about 15 minutes without shifting. This seems to have helped, because after that, my clutch was back to normal. What I THINK happened, is that the fluid in my clutch or something somehow got really really hot, causing the clutch to malfunction slightly. Do you guys agree with this? Any other ideas what happened? 1. If this is what happened, is this normal? 2. Is this something to be worried about occuring in the future (I've owned the car several months, and this is the only time it's happened). 3. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? Thanks for your help guys!

Just a quick reply to say how things turned out... After the shop quoted me $700 to fix my problem, I went to Bow Wow Autoparts, paid $90 for a new caliper, spent 30 minutes installing it and bleeding the brakes, and everything's just fine! The rotor looked like it took a bit of damage, but the brakes feel perfectly fine. No pulling to either side, no warped rotor feel, no soft pedal, everything worked out. Thanks for the help guys

You guys are lucky you don't have the 2.2t. My old Turbo Legacy got from about 16-22mpg :\

Just so you guys know... the shop called back. Turns out, one of the pistons on that caliper had seized. They wanted to replace calipers, rotors, and pads for both sides on the front. $700? No thank you. I just bought a new caliper from Bow Wow for $80 and I'm going to swap it out tomorrow morning. Hopefully I won't run into any issues... either with having a brand new caliper on only 1 side, or with the slightly scored rotor and pad (from the heat). I got a quick question about bleeding brakes (something I've helped on several times, but never done myself). Do you have to bleed all 4 corners when you replace a caliper, or do I only have to bleed the lines at the caliper I replaced? Just wondering if I have to get some more jack stands and remove all the tires or not

The guy at the shop I called said that it did not have a hill holder. I'm thinking it's a stuck slider, or something to that affect. The brakes feel just fine (no pulling, no reduced efficiency) which makes me believe that the caliper is working fine under braking... but when I release the brakes, is where the problem pops up. I dropped it off at a shop and we'll see what they quote me to fix it. I called around a couple times, and shops never want to do brake work without replacing EVERYTHING. "Well, if the caliper is broken, we'll have to do both sides... and new pads... and new rotors... you're looking at $750". So, along those same lines... anyone in the Seattle area have a good brake caliper I can throw in my '98 Legacy GT wagon? (front left side).

Grr, and I dont even know if my car came with a Hill Holder (if it did, it's never worked).

Hey all, I've got a problem with my '98 Legacy GT wagon, and a couple questions associated with said problem. On the way home from work today, I began to notice an odd smell. I've smelled it before, but have noticed nothing wrong my car in the past, so I did nothing about it. Today, however, I noticed that my car felt a bit slower. This happened in and out of gear. It felt like the brake was very lightly pressed. The car would coast to a stop much quicker than normal. By the time I got home, I began to have suspicions. Once I pulled into the driveway, I walked around and checked each wheel. The front left wheel was very hot, and had smoke coming from the wheel. I pulled it into the garage and pulled the wheel off. The wheel was extremely hot. After letting it cool down a few hours, I tried spinning the hub (the wheel wasn't attached). I could barely spin it... it definitely felt like the brake was stuck a little bit. So... I think I have a seized brake caliper. Do you guys agree with my guess? To clarify, the car is ever so slightly slower. I can park it on my driveway (slight incline) and it still rolls down the hill a tiny bit, but enough to notice that something is gumming it up. How safe is it to drive? Being that this is my only car, I have to take the day off work tomorrow and get it fixed. I'm planning on taking it to a local shop, but I want to know the liklihood of the caliper completely seizing up. What do you guys think? The brakes feel perfectly fine right now... so I don't know how likely a seizure is.

This is my second thread that's over 8 months old that was bumped recently. Weird.

I'll try the tire-shake method tonight after work. So you guys think the shaky wheel on the freeway might not be caused by a bad bearing? It's kinda recent (I just bought the car, and it felt fine the first couple weeks, then on the way home last night it started). Check for balanced tires maybe?

Hey all, My car has a distinct hum which I'm fairly certain is a bad wheel bearing. It's dependent on the rolling speed of the car, and is most noticable when slowly rolling to a stop. I had a couple friends ride with me and they insisted it was a wheel bearing too. My problem... I have no idea which wheel bearing it is! Is there any way to find out what wheel bearing is bad... short of tearing the car apart (it's a '98 Legacy GT Wagon by the way). My two friends (who were in the backseat) said they heard it in the back, while I kind of thought it was up front. It could be multiple bearings, but I'd rather assume it was just one... and then fix another if it still turns out to be bad. Also... the reason I'm motivated to research and fix this problem, is that my car has developed a nasty shake on the freeway. below 60mph, it feels fine. But once I get going faster than 60mph, my steering wheel shakes and wobbles really badly. I don't feel the car itself shaking at all, but the steering wheel is shaking quite a bit. Is this common with wheel bearings?

He was asking $9600 (which was Trade-In blue book value), Private sale BB was $8000. I ended up paying him $8500 for it. Heh, being a vain, single, 24 year old male who works full time and has little to waste his money on (no girlfriend)... I'd consider this a perfect car for me

I bought a new Subaru. I had two cars, a '90 Thunderbird Supercoupe and '93 Turbo Legacy. http://home1.gte.net/res0ibjw/mycars.jpg I'm not a huge performance guy, so I decided I wanted something newer, more luxurious, nice looking, and still reasonably fun to drive. I bought this. It's a '98 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT. 2.5l boxer engine mated to a 5-spd AWD tranny. The car had 90k miles on it. Here are some more pictures. My old Legacy has already been sold, and someone's flying out to look at the T-Bird (and hopefully pick it up) on Saturday. http://www.jayspang.com/pics/LegacyGT/Front.jpg http://www.jayspang.com/pics/LegacyGT/engine.jpg http://www.jayspang.com/pics/LegacyGT/Front3.jpg http://www.jayspang.com/pics/LegacyGT/Rear.jpg http://www.jayspang.com/pics/LegacyGT/Side.jpg http://www.jayspang.com/pics/LegacyGT/Dash.jpg The EJ25 is slightly more powerful than my old EJ22t (165hp compared to 160) but the car feels a tiny bit slower than my old turbo. I don't know what either car weighed, but it's a small difference. It's interesting to see the difference in performance between the two cars. The 2.5 feels torqueier, while the turbo felt faster (after the turbo kicked in). Overall, I'm really happy with my purchase. What do you guys think?

I think I've kinda figured it out. Hooray for groping blindly towards a solution! I pressed the LED, turns out it's a button too. I pressed it 3 times, and now the light blinks slowly whenever I lock the doors, so I THINK its armed. Also, when I locked the doors, the lights flash twice now. I love how I just post my problems on the internet rather than test it out to see if its actually working

The manual didnt say anything about Valet mode (although I'm going to be double checking when I get home). Also, red button? what red button? Another thing the manual didnt say anything about.