scoobiedubie

4 other electrical problem areas are: 1. the hot wire coming off of the alternator, can get brittle and lose it's conductivity right at the circular eye connector. 2. the engine ground wire at the connecting to the body in front of the battery, 3. the black wire coming off of the +positive battery wire that goes into the bottom of the fusible link box. The wire gets brittle and loses it's conductivity at the battery connector end of the wire. 4. the distributor cap can crack

It takes a press to insert the CV joint into the bearings, in my experience. So you might want to remove the rear brake wheel assembly, work the CV joint into the bearing but stuff as much wheel bearing grease in there as you can first. Then take that assembly and reattach to rear differential.

This guy has buckets of them. https://www.facebook.com/pg/johnsubaruautobody/about/

You can kill an alternator by not having both electrical connections in place. The engine will run with the ground wire attached and the white plug not attached, but it will kill your alternator quickly. Based on personal experience.

I just installed a pressure plate clutch with the exact same issue. You can install it as is. Once you install it, your clutch pedal will go all the way to the floor and stay there. No worries. You have to significantly readjust the clutch cable that comes into the back of the fork by tightening it up maybe 3/4". You will have to keep playing with it until you get engagement of the clutch on the foot pedal, exactly where you like it. Also, if you have a hill holder cable attaching to the fork from the front, you will want to loosen the nut on that until there is only a very slight tension in the cable and spring. And I do mean slight, like 1/2 turn. Otherwise it will feel like your break is on, which it is, and it will cause you to kill the engine when you engage the clutch.

Problem solved. The pressure plate appeared to be out of spec. The split leaves on the new pressure plate did not protrude out about the 1/4" to 3/8" as the old pressure plate that I removed. The one that I installed had leaves that had zero protusion. This meant that the release bearing had further to travel in order to release the clutch and before I got the resistance to keep the peddle from collapsing to the floor. So I had to reposition the keeper nutting on the clutch cable, toward the lever arm a significant distance. It was listed as an Exedy 15008.

What were the symptoms of a bad pressure plate? I took everything completely apart again today. Trued up the clutch disk so the plastic insert did not have a lot of resistance when removed, and it made not difference whatsoever. I also put some grease on the pivot point, and examined the throw out bearing for any defects. The parts that I installed were exactly like the parts that I removed, because they were from the same manufacturer. I did not use NAPA. The engine just popped right back onto the clutch which told me that everything was a perfect fit. When I had it apart, I examined the lever when I worked the clutch pedal. The lever looked like it was working fine but would not return to it's original position with the pull of the hill holder cable. The clutch pedal still had no resistance, even though the hill holder spring was supposed to pull the lever back to it's original position. So I tightened up the hill holder cable further so more spring had to be working to pop the lever and the clutch pedal back. No luck. I examined the hill holder cable by itself for some sort of resistance that was overcome the spring pull. It appeared normal. I am going to replace the clutch cable tomorrow. It seems extremely strange that a clutch cable would go out with no warning, and at the exact same time that I was replacing the clutch.

Actually, I narrowed it down to the plastic insert not coming out easily enough as the clue that the internal clutch disk shifted slightly in the process of tightening the 6 small outer bolts that hold the outer steel disk. I am just going to loosen enough items to shift the engine back 6 inchs, so that I can reinsert the plastic insert, loosen all of the 6 outer bolts and then retighten them, so that the clutch disk shifts slightly and the plastic insert slides out easily this time.

I only disconnected the hill holder cable, in order to lift the engine out. And then I reconnected after setting the engine in place. The engine did not easily slide back into the clutch housing.

I spent the entire day replacing the clutch part that I bought in a kit. I replaced all new parts exactly as I found the old parts. And after reassembling everything, I go to check the clutch pedal, and it goes right to the floor and stays there. What did I do wrong?

The cheapo Ebay timing belt kits work just fine. Better change your water pump while you are in there. And the night before you install the water pump, put some gasket maker over the top hole over the water pump bearing/shaft. That will keep the dirt out and make the water pump last 10000 more miles than if you don't seal that hole. You also need some large thin O-rings for the front of the camshaft cover plate. When you put the front timing belt covers back on, use a plastic or rubber washer at bolts so the bolts don't seize up in the rear timing belt covers.

Since the cylinder head exhaust bolts require a lot of tightening, you need a solid steel insert. Heli-coils are wire inserts that do not engage the entire insert when the bolt is tightened. Which is very very bad news. The solid steel inserts are slightly too long, but use them anyways. Do not try to drill a deeper hole in order to get the entire insert in the cylinder head. Just drill to the depth of the previous hole, tap it, install solid steel insert, grind off the extra that protrudes above the cylinder head face.

Subaru still has a couple of new GL10 cylinders heads. There is one GL10 in Sherwood Pick-N-Pull with Gen 1 cylinder heads. But the coolant leak is commonly attributed to loose cylinder head bolts, or loose intake manifold bolts. If you have a crusty residue accumulating under the radiator cap, then your cylinder head gasket is probably disintegrating. If you clean off the bottoms of the cylinder head gaskets and run the engine for a week or so, a coolant leak out the cylinder head gasket may show up as a green stain (assuming green coolant) on the bottom of the cylinder head. This is caused by loose cylinder head bolts.

Sheet copper and copper wiring are two entirely different materials. Since both a gas/air mixture and a coolant mixture flow through the intake manifold attachment point, a copper wire wrap could have dozens of leaks for the coolant into the gas mixture, causing white smoke to come pouring out of the exhaust and the engine to run like crap.

It's a sickness in the head. Yours.

I would use a felpro intake gasket before the OEM lead covered gaskets. The lead melts to the cylinder head and must be cleaned off.

It takes about a gallon of coolant to refill the engine. Coolant can be reused from a previously clean catch pan, by pouring it through paper towels that are folded inside of a funnel, sitting on a clean milk jug. You just want to make sure all of the coolant gets filtered by the paper towels.

There are used parts suppliers that sell used Subaru transmissions, located in every major city. Since you are going to be loosening and lifting your engine to get the transmission back in, better drain the engine oil first so that you can remove the oil pan, clean the surfaces, caulk the crap out of the gasket, clean the bolt holes and reinstall the bolts with thread lock. Also, the stick mechanism on top of the transmission gets worn out. There are nylon parts there that you can replace first, before you yank the transmission, just to see whether that was the cause of your shifting problems.

Ebay has a wide selection.

Ebay is a good source for new and used parts.

The black wire fusible link runs the engine. If it is hard and brittle, then replace it, or just replace it anyways with a soft black fusible link wire. The engine ground wire also gets hard at the body connnection. Then it loses it's ability to conduct electricity. If over 250,000 miles on car, replace the engine ground wire. The black wire coming off of the positive battery terminal and leads to the fusible link box, also gets hard and brittle at the battery end. If so then you would need to splice in a section of wire at the battery terminal end.

Better add power steering fluid ASAP. You can't tell how low it is by just looking in the top. Bring it up to the upper line.

Get a shop vacuum or call up your old girl friend who could suck start a leaf blower.

Turn the radio up real loud on a station whose music is more annoying than the lifter tick. It works every time.

On the 86 GL, the left side was constructed about 3/4" lower. I have upgraded to Loyale spring/shocks, which sit a little higher than the 86 spring/shock, even though they were adjustable. There just aren't any good 86 ones still out there. Since I have overloaded my rear spring/shocks from time to time, resulting in a little permanent shortening of the spring. I then keep that sprung one on the right side, and get an unsprung one for the left side and that comes real close for leveling out the rear end.