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scoobiedubie

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Everything posted by scoobiedubie

  1. scoobiedubie
    I am thinking along the lines that I would rather pierce my body with a thousand rusty needles, than change an analog instrument cluster into a digital cluster. But hey, that's just me.
  2. scoobiedubie
    The lapse in good engineering, had to do with how close the joint between the two pieces was to the vent opening. It was two close so I used some black gasket maker to seal that joint.
  3. scoobiedubie
    Try a claw hammer with the claw first. It that doesn't work, then you use the business end and bust it up without nicking the cylinder head. Be gentle.
  4. scoobiedubie
    Water will get into the cabin, by dripping through the joints in the plastic molding surrounding the wiper drive axles, and then directly through the cabin intake air vents below that joint. Japanese engineering at it's best.
  5. scoobiedubie
    In a 5 speed 86 GL10 stick transmission, what are the different reasons that you can lose 4WD without having any sort of abnormal noise from the transmission or rear differential?
  6. scoobiedubie
    You also do the water pump at the same time. And you put some gasket maker into the top hole that allows dirt to get into the bearing/seal. Otherwise, it wears out faster.
  7. scoobiedubie
    You can check to see whether your timing is advancing at higher rpms by hooking up a timing light and put a tic of white off paint on the correct idle advance setting on your flywheel. Then with light hooked up, you can spool up the engine to see whether the timing is advancing by watching your white tic mark on the flywheel.
  8. scoobiedubie
    The fusible links have to be all equally flexible and intact. If the black wire feels slightly stiffer than the other links, change it out for one that is flexible but intact.
  9. scoobiedubie
    If by ignition module, you mean the ignition assembly that the key fits into on the steering column, they break at about 400,000 miles. Mine did.
  10. scoobiedubie
    I have gone through about a dozen of those distributors in 400,000 miles. They can go out in 50,000 miles or less. The used ones then last much less because you don't know how many miles that they had on them before they got to you. Remanufacturing does nothing to improve these numbers because the black plastic casing around the electronics, has no seams . Other problems with those distributors is the ball bearings that allow the vacuum advance to work, gets either corroded or they gouge grooves into the two SS plates that they ride between. Also the swing weights deep inside, get sloppy and can get hung up. You have to take a distributor out of a currently working vehicle, if you want to be sure that you are working with a good one.
  11. scoobiedubie
    The sedan pictured, has the same headlights that were used for the loyale series. The 85's had 2 smaller rectangular headlights on each side, where the one larger headlight occurs as in this sedan's picture. There was no 84 version of the ea82 or ea82T, so the earliest year, being the 85, had the 2 smaller recangular headlight version. Which means that this sedan is an 86. 86 model EA82T, first came off the production line at the end of 1985. But that did not make it an 85 model. This ebay advertisement shows an 85 headlight, and is identified as such. http://www.ebay.com/itm/WAGNER-4651-Headlight-Bulb-/330739156451?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1985%7CMake%3ASubaru&hash=item4d019705e3&vxp=mtr#ht_1312wt_930
  12. scoobiedubie
    It depends on how you define the word "same". 85 and 86 headlights were different. 86 is when they started the headlight style that extended thru the loyale series.
  13. scoobiedubie
    It looks like an 86 GL10.
  14. scoobiedubie
    Timing is set properly, and rotor points at #1 cylinder when flywheel is at TDC. Correct timing is 22 to 24 degrees advanced, from my recollection.
  15. scoobiedubie
    You have not defined what "it" is. In my experience, Subaru distributors are more likely to go out than a coil. Same end result. It won't start.
  16. scoobiedubie
    The 85's and 86's have some hidden quirks that cause the engine to not get a spark. 1. The hot wire to the alternator gets fried and breaks within a few inches of the alternator. 2. The capacitor that connects to the coil goes out and you can't start the car. 3. The brains in the distributor goes out and the engine won't get a spark 4. The black wire in the fusible link box gets hot, and breaks.
  17. scoobiedubie
    The vacuum tubes can come loose at the junctions. One black rubber junction connector is just to the right and slightly above the gas pedal. Most likely, somebody before you simply did not plug the correct vacuum tube into the correct connector, at the controls behind the dash buttons. The fan switch can easily be found at a auto wrecking yard. I would not recommend tinkering with that wiring.
  18. scoobiedubie
    There are a lot of things, that aren't absolutely needed. However, from my experience, my engine runs quieter and I have assembled the top end both with and without this little extra touch of gasket maker. People have commented how unusually quiet my engine is.
  19. scoobiedubie
    You take both heads in to have the valves ground. Tell them to remove the best valves from the bad head and install them where the too short stem valves are.
  20. scoobiedubie
    "NEW" 84 hatch? What year is this?
  21. scoobiedubie
    When the mice die in the fan housing, their little feet may dangle outside the fan and make a noise like when I was a kid, and clothes pinned playing cards so that they flapped on the spokes. It is really annoying. Not to mention the stench that goes along with rotting mice bodies. And if they had babies, then you may as well just sell the car on craigslist. Some collector may snap it up.
  22. scoobiedubie
    5 1/4" pioneers fit right into the factory holes and mountings.
  23. scoobiedubie
    Use stainless steel and keep to larger than 5/16" diameter. You have to plan for bumps and rust.
  24. scoobiedubie
    In order to install the camtower and have your engine run as quietly as possible, you need 6 things. 1. Rock hard lifters to begin with 2. Genuine Subaru, metal reinforced high temperature O-rings. O-rings off the shelf will melt rapidly and clog the oil passage hole. 3. A faint touch of gasket maker around the additional two contact surface oil passages, between the camtower and the cylinder head. Be careful not to get this gasket maker next to the actual oil passage hole so that when it squishes, it would flow into the hole. 4. Clear oil passages to your lifters and camshaft. 5. Degreased both mating surfaces 6. 20 minutes time for the gasket maker to get tacky before assembly and overnight wait before you actually run the engine.
  25. scoobiedubie
    Yessiree, My snowmobile had sealed bearings. Once the grease gets burned up or pushed out, the bearings just relied on melted snow to keep it lubricated. Of course, they all rusted up at 3000 miles, since the grease was pushed out with no natural way of replenishing it. I heard that some newer Subaru's have sealed bearings. And those bearings require replacement every 75,000 miles. You can get 3 or more times that with an open bearings that you add more grease to when you do a CV joint, assuming that you don't drive through deep mud or water of course. I have over 400,000 on my rear bearings and I have never had them replaced.
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