scoobiedubie

Perhaps it is a cracked distributor cap, a corroded coil wire to the distributor, clogged PCV valve, or a fusible link wire that is fried, brittle and in a world of hurt.

I have an extra glass one. How much are you willing to pay for it?

You might want to state whether they are Gen 1, Gen 2 or Gen 3. Also, what kind of cracks do they have, and how many miles on them.

The breather tube from the top of the right side camtower cover, draws oily air into the intake air stream before that air goes through the turbo. The breather tube from the left side camtower cover, goes through the pcv valve, and is drawn into the intake air after that air goes through the turbo. If you have a compressed air leak in your intake system after the turbo, your engine will fall flat on it's face. I have the same oil in the intake that you have, and it has no oil leak.

Junk yards still have loyales in them. I would keep looking until you can come up with heads that are not cracked. But who is to say that the heads that you already have in your car are cracked. Did you take those heads out yet and examine them? They made 3 generations of the EA82T MPFI turbo head, but only one generation of the EA82 loyale head, as I understand it. You can't use the turbo head in a non-turbo loyale. Was your loyale using a lot of coolant before it stopped working? That could be due to either cracked heads, loose cylinder head bolts, or leaky hose connections. When you take your head off, be sure and note as to whether you had any loose cylinder head bolts. If you have loose cylinder head bolts and no cracks in your heads, then just get a valve job on the heads, buy new cylinder head gaskets, and put them back in. And when putting on the camtower, be sure and apply a slight amount of gasket maker around the two contact oil passage holes, that pass oil from the cylinder head to the camtower. And also get the genuine subaru O-ring for each cylinder head at the indented oil passage hole that contacts the camtower. The engine will run quieter. And don't put any short cylinder head bolts in the holes that require the longer cylinder head bolts. Because you will strip out the threads in your block when you attempt to tighten them to spec. Then your block is toast.

The car will pass emissions test without the middle cat. Mine did. Naturally you would like to have new plugs and have recently checked the timing, cleaned off the corrosion inside the cap, checked your plug wire ends for corrosion, prior to your next test.

I have concluded that the problem is caused by the coolant temperature dropping below some minimum that the computer needs to keep things running smoothly. Driving in a rainstorm provides an even more rapid heat loss through the radiator, so that the engine is not making heat as fast as the radiator is losing it.

I sprayed a mist on the electrical components when the engine was running and it had no effect. The car is fuel injected MPFI and turbo charged. The bog happens instantaneously as soon as you stop accelerating. This occurs during cold temperatures in the 30's and in heavy traffic with water spray flying from rain storm, at any temperature below say 60 deg F. All the plug wire contacts are free of green corrosion. The engine has full power when not bogged up. Nothing unusual coming from the exhaust.

I used Pioneer 5 1/4" in all doors.

I should also say that it could be more related to humidity. As air cools in the evening, the humidity goes up, and the bogging begins. When it is raining, it will bog while cruising along at a constant speed, no matter what the temperature. I replaced the pcv valve with a new one. I also replaced the fuel filter. It idles smoothly on a cold start. It appears to have normal power for climbing hills. I currently have about 1/3 or the radiator covered in order to keep engine temps up. When it bogs, I can rev it up to clear it out. Then it runs normal for a little bit.

I need some ideas for my 86 EA82T wagon with double core radiator, consistent bogging at low temperatures and after even slightly letting off on the gas. It feels like the plugs are fouling from too much gas. I have changed out distributors. I have checked and rechecked the timing. I have put new plugs in it. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor. When the outside temperature are higher, the better it runs. The longer I warm it up in the morning, the better it runs. With outside temperatures in the 30's and little warm up, it starts bogging pretty quickly. It does not seem to burn either oil or coolant to any significant degree. I need some more ideas for things that I can replace.

On the GL-Loyale series, the engine is not connected to the suspension. The engine is connected to the frame. The transmission is also connected to the frame. And the suspension is connected to the frame. All using difference connection points. You lift the engine out and drop the transmission, unless you really want to make things difficult.

Look for Gen 3 cylinder heads , which have an EA82 raised lettering inside of a rectangular box, on the bottom side of each head when assembled. They last a whole lot longer than the Gen 1 or Gen 2's, from my personal experience. Regarding the turbo seals, buy a used turbo from a subaru junk yard like Mountain Tech in Oregon City, OR. Look at it before you buy. They can be pressure tested. Needing a seal is code for a cracked turbo.

By grabbing the front tire and attempting to twist it, does it move? Wait for the vehicle to be stationary before attempting this procedure.

You might want to rethink any project where you tear apart your dash because it is unlikely that you will ever get it back together again. There are too many plugs and connectors for that to happen. You might want to go over again, exactly what the symptoms are to cause you to want to replace the heater hoses inside he car. A simple smell of coolant inside the car, does not mean either a heater core or hoses require replacement, for instance. There are all kinds of points where coolant can leak around the engine. Any leaks in the engine compartment can easily come inside the vehicle through the venting.

On my 86 gl-10, the engine temperature is accurate, only when the heater, defroster or bilevel is NOT OPERATING. It will shoot up to red line hot with any of them are operating. But as soon as you shut them down, the engine temp drops like a rock back to the normal engine temperature. They put the engine temperature sensor in the wrong spot on the EA82.

If you make the drive, look at it this way. Everybody gets to hear how well your engine is running, whether they want to or not.

At some point in time, they added windshield wiper nozzles to the hood. An 85 is not necessarily a different body style from an 87, and I am sure the original poster is aware. But the original posters photo, shows the EA81 body style, which was not manufactured in 1987.

You set the rpm at about 800 rpm and disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor.

You might take your distributor cap off and check that each of the four connecting wires is firmly connected to their respective metal tab that stick straight up off of the black plastic encased distributor brains. One may have worked it's way loose.

The distributor timing advance wears out because on the 86, the vacuum from the engine causes one distributor plate to rotate relative to a plate below it. Ball bearings separate the plates. The bearings get corroded and pitted, dirt gets piled up on the bearing path and/or a gough gets ground into the bearing path. This bearing path area needs to be cleaned and inspected. If there is impedence to the plate rotation, then the timing advance will be off. Upon release of your gas peddle, the timing advance may get hung up at a more advanced position. Or upon application of more gas, the engine may get hung up at a less advanced position than it should be. More advanced positions normally cause the engine to idle faster, not slower. I have not seen a reply here where the timing was checked, because that will cause a a low idle rpm. The idle mixture needle will also cause a low idle rpm, by turning it clockwise. The throttle cable can be used to adjust idle higher. If the engine is not idling smoothly no matter what rpm you are above say 800 rpm, then you have bigger problems.

Since evidence can pretty much only come out as some kind of scientific or user study, exactly who is willing or has the interest to put in the time to perform such a study. Nobody. I am a user and have used all 3 generations of gl10 cylinder heads. In my opinion, the Gen 3 cylinder heads FAR OUTLAST THE GEN 1 AND GEN 2 CYLINDER HEADS. The Gen 1 and Gen 2 cylinder heads fore me, were lasting no more than 30,000 miles before they developed a serious crack that allowed coolant into the combustion chamber, or coolant into the exhaust port. There you go. There is your evidence, or at least as much as you are going to find.

110,000 is practically fresh off the showroom floor. With an elderly couple, at least you can be assured that they did not abuse the engine and cracked the cylinder heads. But it probably only has Gen 2 cylinder heads, so you are likely going to crack them once you get it running. Gen 3 cylinder heads are hard to find.

If either of the two vacuum pumps on the right side by the air filter, are either broken, malfunctioning or perhaps the nipple broke off, then the engine will have difficulty idling.

If all else fails, change out the distributor.