scoobiedubie

Must of been like a horizontal ferris wheel ride for them. When the babies die, things get really bad.

On the GL10's, there is an idle screw adjustment, on the back side of the round intake inlet into the top of the intake manifold. The screw access is from the top. Counterclockwise is a higher idle. However, you should check the timing first. If the advance slips to less than specified, the idle rpm also drops. The bolts that hold the distributor in place and at the correct advance, may be loose.

You problems are a blessing in disquise. The GL transmission is a 3.9 gear ratio, however your rear turbo differential is a 3.7 gear ratio. Had you been succesful at assembling everything, then your back end would want to drive faster than your front end.

Therein lies your problem. No rear pan bolts then no chance of stopping the leak. You have to loosen the engine mounting bolts at the three locations, and raise the engine up by about 4 inches. Avoid putting hand in between engine and frame as the engine can drop at any time.

I hate to say it but as the engine gets older, the heat cycles reduce the strength of the steel bolts, by making them softer. So it becomes easier to twist the head off in the process of tightening the bolt to stop the leaks. So be real careful about over tightening them. Loctite is probably a waste, because the hole and bolt would likely have to be free of all oil, before applying the loctite. Which is very difficult to achieve. The compression of the new gasket, is what is most likely causing loose bolts. Just keep retightening them on a periodic basis, until you grow tired of it.

The valves are part of the cylinder head. The cam is part of the camtower assembly. The camtower cannot be different due to valve placement, because valves are not part of the camtower assembly. I have interchanged my camtowers on my EA82T and camtowers off of a EA82, with no problems.

How is the turbo cam different?

At $1700, it is priced as if everything works and looks fine, and it has tires in good condition. To have that stuff fixed in a shop will cost him at least $800. The windshield is another $400. New tires is $300, unless you get some for $13 each at U-pull-it and mount them yourself. Then tires are $62 for a set of four including $5 each for balancing the front tires. So technically, the car is very nearly totalled as is, where is. He can get $300 to $400 from a auto recycler. Cars with 190k are hard to sell. Offer him $600, and he will be making money on the deal. He should have kept the car up better and stored it inside. For that grand failure, he can hardly expect to get top dollar.

I know on the 85 and later GL's, that they put the outside air intake below the windshield gutter system and cover plates for around the wipers. I had a windshield repair man actually sabotage my vehicle by drilling holes through that gutter so that water would drain directly into the air intakes on both sides. He would have done that by request from other people who like to wiretap telephones. But that is another matter altogether. Any ways, I sealed up the joints in the cover plates and the holes in the gutter, in order to keep water from draining directly into my outside air intakes. Now the inside is as dry as a bone.

Running rough after reassembly when you did not screw up the timing belts, is possibly the spark plug wires have been interchanged between #1 & #3, or between #2 and #4 cylinder.

This guy will fix you up for probably $100 each. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/4164855575.html

The 86 GL-10 automatic is 25 degrees BTDC @ 800 rpm. I set mine at 26 degrees. The only difference between the MT and the AT, is the rpm that you set it at. Except the timing does not vary on mine, at that low of rpm. You would want to clean the corrosion off of the points in the inside top of the distributor cap, before you set the timing.

Possible causes: 1. Gunk in the guides not allowing the window wheels to slide. Remove guides, inspect and clean as required. Add white lithium grease. 2. Corrosion in the switch. Change out the switch. 3. Corrosion in the motors. Change out the motors. I did recently on an 86 that had been stored inside but had 405,000 miles, and it makes a world of difference.

You can retorque the cylinder heads bolts at about 5000 miles after you installed them and check them again 5000 miles after that. When installing the cylinder head bolts,it is best to get all of the oil off of the threads, washer and bolt head, as well as all oil out of the hole you put to bolt into. If you put short bolts in the long bolt holes, you will strip out the threads in the block enough so that you can't go back and put the correct long bolt in and get enough torque on it before it strips out what is left of the threads. Some cylinder head gaskets are supposed to be better than others, and they claim that you never have to retorque. I have not found them. Never run the engine with no coolant. If you don't put on cam tower sealant, you will lose oil so fast that you will have to add a quart every time you go to the grocery store. You only have to take the cam tower covers off and the horizontal lubricating bar inside, in order to get at the bolt heads. Use a 17mm x 3/8" short socket because it can fit into the tight places.

Redo your cylinder head gaskets and/or check the torque on the cylinder head bolts. The bolts get loose and allow extra pressure on the oil and coolant systems and some coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. Look on the bottom side of your radiator cap for a deposit of some kind that tends to indicate your cylinder head bolts are loose or your cylinder head gaskets are disintigrating. A dark deposit in the coolant overflow bottle also indicates the same thing. How many miles on the engine?

Check the timing.

Those center bearings don't come of easily. I bought a used driveshaft with less than 125,000 miles. My first driveshaft bearing lasted 325,000 miles. Look for wear spots or impact marks on the undercarriage. Especially around moving parts like the driveshaft knuckles. The shift in the balance of the car, may compress the body down to hit some portion of the driveshaft. The only fix may be to raise it back up.

Looked like you cut the video just before the Warning light on your dashboard came into clear focus. Pretty clever.

If you want the throaty sound, you have to wait for the engine to conk out before you can use your cell phone to call up your girl friend for a tow.

Change out the black fusible link. If that doesn't work change out all other fusible links. Check hot wire coming from alternator for melting of plastic sheathing, and for lack of flexibility and/or breaks. Change capacitor on or around coil, if it has one. Change out battery harness. Change out engine harnesses.

If it was an 86 gl-10 turbo, it could have been any number of things to cause it to suddenly not start when warm. 1. Distributor electronics just gave up the ghost 2. Black fusible link wire just broke through completely 3. Ignition switch on steering column finally went out 4. Capacitor wired to coil just went out 5. Hot wire to alternator just broke from being overheated 6. Driver side timing belt broke 7. Disconnected hose from camtower cover 8. Fuel pump just went out Obviously, narrowing the problem down to either fuel or the electrical spark, will cut your work down. You could pull a plug while keeping the plug wire on, then hold the tip in contact with the engine metal to ground it. Then have someone else attempt to start the engine, while you look for a spark. No spark = electrical problem. Since your starter turns, then it would not be item 2.

What happened to keeping it all metric?

I had a GL10 turbo that had the white smoke. The cause was cracked cylinder heads. The white smoke will dissipate because it is actually water vapor. The engine will stop smoking once you burn up enough of your coolant to prevent any further circulation to your water pump and nothing can reach the cracks. I don't recall weather it had cracks between the intake and exhaust valves or cracks in the fin at the exhaust port, between cylinder exhaust channels. The engine will run rough with the crack between the valves. The crack in the fins does not affect combustion.

How about change out both the cylinder heads and the intake manifold, with the American set?

This guy will have them. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/4094892510.html And if he doesn't have them, then these guys will: Mountain Tech Subaru Oregon City, OR 503-650-3686 http://www.mttechsuba.com/