scoobiedubie

The hole in your exhaust will cause a lack of power because you don't have the same amount of exhaust spining your turbo to compress intake air. Bad plugs, bad plug wire connectors, corroded distributor cap points, leak in your intake between the turbo and the intake manifold, and timing belt off a notch will all also cause loss of power. Over heating can be caused by bad radiator thermostat that triggers auxiliary fan, running the headlights, high humidity, worn out water pump, clogged radiator, pulling a trailer, carrying something on the roof, and loose cylinder head bolts that also shows up as coolant blowing out the overflow bottle and a deposit on the radiator cap. No subaru came standard with a double core radiator that I am aware. But a turbo certainly needs one.

How much was welded?

You have to start by narrowing it down between no spark or no gas. Check for no spark by pulling a spark plug wire but holding it close to the plug, and listen for an electical snap. Have somebody else turn the ignition on start. By completely removing the plug, you should smell gas coming out of the spark plug hole, if you are getting gas. Try replacing the black wire in the fusible link box, near the coolant overflow bottle. They go bad.

They all do not have to have exactly the same wear. The steering may just pull to one way or the other. The open slip differential takes care of any differential tire wear in the rear.

The extra drag of 4 bikes on the roof, is not figured into the design load recommendations. Don't be surprised if you cracked your cylinder heads, instead of just suddenly loosened the bolts up. Henceforth, don't be surprised that it keeps drinking coolant and you get frequent boilovers.

The ends of the cover are spring loaded. You probably have the right length.

It's the cylinder head gaskets. You could have it fixed in an hour for each side. Retighten the cylinder head bolts. End of story.

Since your overflow bottle was empty and you had head gaskets doen recently, it looks like you need to retighten the cylinder head bolts as they will need tightening several thousand miles after a HG job. You probably also have a gray or black deposit on the bottom side of your radiator cap and your coolant bottle is dirty on the inside.

I believe that the thermostat for the dash, in on top of the engine, about 10 inches behind the thermostat housing. The connection goes into the top of that thermostat, and it gets corroded that compromises the contact. You should probably replace all switches that are behaving erratically. In order to replace the turn signal switch, you have to pull the steering wheel.

It their a black or gray residue building up on the bottom side of the radiator cap. It so, then your cylinder head bolts either need tightening or you need new cylinder head gaskets.

It means you should drive it around until you get the red trouble light to come on, on your dashboard. They you pull over but DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OFF. Then you read the codes.

You could be the victim of some welding epoxy that you mechanic secured everything together with. In that case, you pull everthing and go to the autowreckers and buy everything off on a 150k mile vehicle or less. The pins only come out one way. If you look real close at the CV axle, the edge of the entry hole is tapered on one end, and has sharp edges on the opposite side. You insert your round driving punch, into the end with the sharp edges ONLY, in order to remove the CV pin at the rear differential or transmission.

I will sell you one for $100 and have it to you by Friday. nvburgstahler@gmail.com

My final guess as to the cause: you are running a 1600cc engine in a car whose weight and drag characteristics, requires an 1800cc engine or better. You bought the car from someone else who was likely dissatisfied with it. Perhaps now you know why he dumped it. I know that everything has to be working perfectly, for my 1800cc w/ turbo w/ double core radiator, not to get real hot in the summer time. And I don't even drive fast.

You would probably want to remove the panels above your knees at this point in time. Then when you get the next trouble light on your dash, you pull over into a parking lot or driveway and leave the car running. Then you get out of your vehicle and peek below the steering column for the flashing red light. Once you turn it off, you cannot read the codes anymore.

Autowreckers

When it is running hot, and the engine is still on, have you popped the hood and specifically seen the auxiliary fan, that sits on the passenger side of the vehicle, spinning? You use the word fan, but it is not clear which of the two fans that you are referring to. And it is not clear that you have two fans that are functioning properly.

Loose cylinder head bolts will cause overheating. Look on the underside of the radiator cap for any kind of deposit. Look in the overflow bottom for the same deposit. The deposit is from the cylinder head gaskets. Tighten all cylinder bolts as required by simply removing the camtower covers and the oil lubricating crossbar, and use 3/8" x 17mm socket. Lack of an auxiliary fan and/or lack of a good radiator thermostat that triggers the auxiliary fan, and/or lack of power to the auxiliary fan and/or lack of a good connection to the radiator thermostat, will cause over heating. Running headlights, radio, etc requires more alternator electricity, which may then cause extra strain on the engine that triggers higher temps. A mouse nest in front of the radiator will cause overheating.

An aftermarket muffler can be bought anywhere. There is nothing special about Subaru mufflers, other than power loss from the small diameter exhaust system. A 2 1/2" diameter system coming off of the first cathodic downpipe, that eliminates the 2nd cathodic gismo, will give you better power.

You might look at the hot wire that goes to the alternator. In my 86 turbo, I have to replace the last few inches every 15,000 miles because it gets hot, brittle and breaks right next to the alternator. The engine would turn over but it won't start with that wire broken. It would also run rough just before it breaks. The black wire in the fusible link, keeps the engine running as well. It also gets hot, brittle and breaks.

Just checked the manual. For a manual transmission, it is 8 degrees BTDC at 700 rpm. For an automatic, it is 8 degrees BTDC at 800 rpm.

$10 says the engine never seized. Another $10 says that the mechanic is lying about everything. Mechanics can spot a non-mechanic from several car lengths away. And some will not let the potential monetary benefits of that natural resource, go unharvested.

Perhaps your mechanic did not put any oil back in, after removing the old oil. Simple mistakes like that in the work place, are often the end result of self medication. Does your mechanic have glassy eyes by chance?

Pull all the plugs and turn it over by hand until you get all of the water out. Then reinstall plugs and plug wires and see if it will start. Make sure that the intake manifold gaskets were installed correctly, otherwise the problem could repeat itself. You might initially look to see whether there is extra gasket material sticking out from beneath the intake manifold, that might indicate that they were either installed backwards, or shifted before the bolts were inserted. The plugs might also indicate which cylinder have the problems, so inspect those for unusual coloring. That could narrow down your search for the problem.

Somebody mentioned that new crosspipes are not available anymore.