scoobiedubie

Pick n Pull Vancouver 9605 NE 76th Street Vancouver, WA 98662 88 GL row 001

Pick n Pull North Portland 9635 N Columbia Boulevard Portland, OR 97203 93 loyale row 51 91 loyale rows 33, 35, 51 90 loyale row 36

Synchromeshing could be shot on those gears.

Replaced with u-pull-it shock/spring used assemblies. I looked for loyale shock/springs that had no oil running down the shock. Loyale springs are a little taller than what my 86 came with. They make it look real sharp compared to stock.

The clip on the end is the same as on the the wires that attach to the INSIDE of my 86 EA82 distributor. If I don't have all 4 wires hooked up exactly right, then it runs rough.

That sounds like the standard leak of the gasket maker between the camtower and the cylinder head bolts, around the camtower cover gasket, and through the camtower bolt seals. It requires removing the camtower and resetting it with new gasket maker, new subaru O-rings, and gasket maker on the two internal contact faces at oil channels. Also installing a new rubber cover gasket and using some hi-temp gasket maker to help seal it and the new bolt seals that you will be installing.

You also cam buy a used camtower for a song, at the auto wrecker.

White smoke means coolant, which is most likely coming through a new crack in your exhaust port. Loud ticking means lack of oil in the hydraulic lifters. You may have been parked in such an attitude that the oil did not circulate well.

Your money will be better served if you buy your own radiator replacement and install it yourself. It is not exactly rocket science.

You more than likely have either a cracked cylinder head or loose cylinder head bolts. You can retightened the cylinder head bolts in a couple of hours by removing the camtower cover, removing the top oil lubication tube and getting a 3/8" x 17 mm socket in there. If you find that they are all tight, then you should think about removing the cylinder head and replacing it with a GEN 3 cylinder head. The heads can crack between the valves or crack at the fin in the dual exhaust outlet that separates the individual cylinder exhaust outlet. If you are getting considerable white exhaust on startup, then you likely have the exhaust outlet crack. If you look on the bottom of the cylinder head, there are the raised letters "EA 82". If there is a line beneath the letters, then it is a GEN 2. If there is a rectangular box around the letters, then it is a GEN 3. If you have neither, then it is a GEN 1. From my experience GEN 3 last longer than either GEN 1 or GEN 2. But there are others here who have a different opinion. If you want some GEN 3's that you want to take a chance and have some cracks rewelded, then I can sell you some for $50 plus shipping. You will likely have difficulty in finding any GEN 3's and it will be nearly impossible to find some that have no cracks.

Your car is probably wired for the electric auxiliary fan. Look to the passenger side of the radiator, for a white plug-in about 3/4" diameter x 1 1/2" long that supplies the power. And also look for the plug that attaches to the radiator thermostat. If you have both of those, then you can buy a used fan with housing at pick-n-pull and install it yourself. You will want to buy a fan that has matching receptacles for whatever plug-ins you have. I know that they changed them from the GL's to the Loyales.

Your cylinder head bolts could have loosened sufficiently to allow the combusted mixture to enter the coolant passages around the cylinder. Your radiator could have now collected enough gunk to not be working at 100% capacity. You may have a mouse nest in front of your radiator and behind the A/C radiator. This overheating issue probably will not go away by simply adding some mysterious concoction.

It's normal to hear some hydraulic lifter noise. Just as long as it is not too loud.

Use a small screwdriver to pry it up off of the lower half of the housing. Examine the rubber ring around the diaphragm for cracking.

Could just have a loose connection to either the radiator or to the auxiliary fan. Or the silver round fuse type plug-in thingamajig above your knees and inside the dash, could have been fried. You can pull one at a time and check for melting. There are about 8 of those silver round plug ins to the left of the steering wheel and beneath the dash. You also could have a mouse nest between the A/C radiator and the main radiator. Normally, you need a double core radiator for GL-10's when you run the A/C in the summer time. Your old radiator probably has a gunk build-up inside that causes things to now get hot, when they had worked OK in previous years. It also helps to take off the two gravel guards that sit below and to the left and right of the engine. This will increase the air cooling of the cylinder heads so the coolant does not have to do the entire job. You could also get a thermosat that runs about 10 deg F cooler than stock, and use it only in the summer time.

Possible speedometer cable inside of the instrument panel. It only ticks when you are moving.

It's time to reset your camtowers. You would want to have replacement Subaru O-rings on hand for the job. On the interior of the camtower, there are 3 total oil passages that should be sealed or O-ringed in order for your engine to run quietest and get the most oil pressure to your valve lifters. The lowest one in the front is sealed with the O-ring. The other two are sealed with a light amount of the same gasket maker that you use to reseal the camtowers. If you jack the car up on the side that you are doing the work, the rocker arms will stay in place easier with just gunking up each end with bearing grease. Make sure that you do not have any soft lifters before reassembling. And as was noted by Ivan, tighten up the cylinder head bolts as they can get loose. Before you start, you might want to check your cylinder compression to make sure you should not be also doing a valve job on your cylinder heads.

It depends on the manufacturer. For the last 4 that I purchased, the pulley height was not adjustable.

There are two holes in the water pump that can all coolant to escape past a worn bearing/seal. You should put some silicone sealant on the top hole to seal it off. Leave the lower hole open to allow drainage that can indicate when the water pump would need replacing.

It is worth the $$$risk of buying some R134a AC compressor oil, as it could also be the guts needing some oil.

It looks like the seatbelt is completely worthless, as it extended another 8 inches or so after initial impact.

From my experience, Les Schwab uses chewing gum to repair the free flat repairs that they provide to bring back customers, and each tire repair technician carries around a device to put needle punctures in the sidewall of the tire that they just fixed a tread puncture, so that the tire then cannot ever be repaired again. And then they sell you a new tire when you come back again to get the sidewall puncture repaired. Their own tires have extremely thin sidewalls that rip from just hitting a curb.

Do you have the same tire size with a similar amount of wear, on both front wheels? Also, perhaps they did not get the wheel alignment rods reinstalled exactly as how they were before they came off of the car. And then they failed to check the alignment.

A leaky intake gasket is an easy way to get coolant into the combustion chamber, and cause combustion problems.

Upgrade to summer Chevron Super gas.