scoobiedubie
-
Posts
698 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by scoobiedubie
-
-
It takes 350,000 miles to wear out the ignition so that the spring breaks. Other electrical problems, but probably not with your vehicle due to the low mileage, include the engine ground connector end wire at the body, the hot wire coming out of the alternator, and the black wire end coming out of the bottom of the Positive battery terminal.
-
For GL10 cross pipes that rattle, you remove the middle of three sections that occur on the engine right end of the cross pipe. Subaru does not make cross pipes anymore. If the cross pipe has cracked at the turbo connection, about 3/4" down from the exit flange, you disassemble the heat shield around that connection, reweld the crack all around, and then reinstall the heat shield section. Otherwise, that crack will leak and make a lot of noise if you don't fix it.
-
A wider belt (1/2") will engage the pulleys better and not squeal if tight. The metric belts are narrower, as I recall. GL10's require a special water pump with a specific stem height that is shorter than the GL water pump stem height.
-
It is best to pull the entire heater unit below the dash board and replace it with one that mice have never got into. Because you will never be able to get the mouse stink out.
-
1
-
-
Pick-N-Pull
-
Who is feeding you this gibberish?
STOP listening to them and trying to spread misinformation please!
Thank you.
I have tried it both ways and know for a fact that the cleaner the better. You will never be able to get all of the oil out of the threads but they will hold position a lot longer and not loosen, if everything is dry. 47 ft-lbs of torque is no problem with dry threads. It is even better to tighten them up, let them sit over night, and come back and retorque them the next day.
-
Could be a horrendous crack between the valve openings that has allowed a breach of the compressed gasses. A bad piston ring would make all kinds of noise. A bad cylinder head gasket would pump hot gases into the coolant system ending in a boil over. Subaru heads love to crack between the valves. Simple fix is another cylinder head with a valve job.
-
Sorry man, but you just can't be giving out advice like that.
1. The timing belt will never skip teeth unless it is horribly loose.
2. Nothing whatsoever can put extra strain on the belts. They turn the camshafts, that's it.
Jakethewhite, as long as you didn't pull the distributor, it will be set just the same as before the belt change. Just make sure the crank is on it's mark, and one camshaft mark is straight up and one is straight down.
Sorry dude. But you just can't be giving out bad advice like that. The belts have jumped cambelt teeth on me, several times. So now you know that you are wrong.
-
The bolts will loosen if you put oil on the threads. Then you get to take everything apart, over and over again, replacing the cylinder head gaskets over and over again.
-
Clean them up with a utility knife. Remove every speck of oil on both the bolt and washer with brake cleaner before reinstalling. Same with the hole and the cylinder head face that the washers contact.
-
The timing belts can hop teeth on the camshaft gear, especially if you should happen to not have the plug wires into the correct distributor holes or try restarting it with the rotor in reversed direction. Once a belt hops a couple of teeth on the camshaft gear, this can put a little extra strain on the belt, and your distributor timing gets way off seemingly by itself. If you carry something on the roof of the vehicle like boat or luggage compartment, that puts extra strain on the timing belts for some reason and can break them.
-
I have got (6) brand new SKF 6005-2RS1/C3 bearings that I bought by mistake. I will sell you the works for $50.
-
Two words. It sucks.
-
1
-
-
Distributors go out on the GL's. Coils go out with enough mileage. The hot wire off of the alternator, the black lead coming off of the positive battery terminal, and the engine ground wires gets hot, hard and loses conductivity. The condensor at the coil causes it not to start. These are all problems with 85 and 86 Gl's and GL-10's. Since you did not mention the year, I have no idea what you are dealing with.
-
Just joined picked up a 85 gl wagon cheap runs drives great potential for fun. No windows were working thanks to the info here they do now thanks. The pink connector behind the passenger kick panel corroded the blades off big white wire and two green wires thanks again
The corrosion came from water dripping through the air intake vents by the exterior windshield wiper connection. You will need to apply black caulking to the exterior plastic removable panels at the bottom edge of the windshield, in order to keep more water from dripping through that vent and into the electronics beneath the dash, and also onto the carpet.
-
Assuming it is a 4 cylinder boxer, if the timing belt slips a couple of gears on one side, the engine will make a louder noise than normal, and have a little vibration.
-
O2 sensor on the exhaust catalytic converter also has an effect on how smoothly the engine runs when cold. They are cheap to replace.
-
You can buy rebuilt A/C compressors off of Ebay. You would possibly be reusing your old clutch. The clutch may require a new bearing. Simply unscrew the front of it to expose the bearing. Using a circular clip remover, remove the clutch. Pound out the bearing. Buy new bearing at Ace Hardware. Replace clutch.
-
DO NOT USE HELICOILS. They strip out easily and then you are screwed. Use a solid drilled in metric insert that fits exactly the original stud. You can pick up the studs off of a junk car by tightening together 2 nuts over the end of the stud, and unscrewing the old stud. You do not need to use stainless steel.
-
-
I see ..well i have set the belts according to Miles fox on youtube.
And i have tryed to swing the rotor one notch at both ways but then the engine fail to start.
As now the rotor points at the hillholder when cylinder one is at tdc exactly the same as mile fox shows in his video.
The firing is "before top dead center". For instance, my turbo gl10 is something like 24 degrees before top dead center. The rotor should be pointing towards the back of the battery, when the triple notch alignment is used.
-
Don't take chances. Replace in kind. The black one is the most important fuse that runs the engine.
-
Yes i know about the two surface wich i coated with a thin layer of sealent.
The timingbelt want to go against the back panel and i dont know why.
I have tryed to turn the belt but it dosent matter.
Then it is probably a bad lifter.
-
You have a lifter tick that is most likely caused when the two oil transfer sealing faces at the interior of the camtower, were not sealed with a little gasket maker, before assembly of the camtower. The gasket maker is very lightly dabbed on around the oil the oil transfer holes, or around the rim of the oil transfer surfaces. There is a secondary whine that sounds like the timing belts are shifted too far backward and rubbing against the plastic back panels.
Hesitation during acceleration after running
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
The O2 sensor is a pretty common cause of bad performance like what you describe.