scoobiedubie

Find some Gen 3 cylinder heads. Install a double core radiator Install 2 1/2" O.D. exhaust pipe coming off of the 1st catalytic converter. Toss the 2nd catalytic converter.

I have been disappointed with my Rock Auto purchases, 100% of the time.

You may have received the defective water pump with a crack in it, that I returned to Rock Auto.

For a stick transmission, you buy the double core radiator that works for an automatic transmission. One size fits all. The two tubes that the transmission fluid run in and out of the radiator in, are naturally separate lines from all other liquids. You do not need to cap them off or anything. You can buy aftermarket double core radiators in a lot of radiator shops. Before you walk out of the store with one though, see if it will hold the thermister on the right side of the radiator. There are some bad aftermarket radiators that are not constructed correctly in that they do not have enough threads to hold the thermister. Of couse if you have no thermister, then forget I said anything. You also may want to play with the rubber grommets that hold the double core radiator in position, so that you can move it forward an extra 1/2". This is done in order to clear the fan blades sufficiently to get fan belts on, and so that the fan blades do not cut into your brand spankin new radiator.

The radiators collect gunk, the thermostats go bad, the cylinder heads develop cracks through to the coolant system and the cylinder head bolts loosen up causing cooling system problems. Check the underside of your radiator cap for a black carbon deposit from combustion. Replace the thermostat. Check the cylinder head bolt torque. Clean out the radiator. Also look for mouse nests in front of the radiator.

A/C oil is required to keep the compressor running without strange noises. R134 compatible oil is available at most auto parts stores. You might as well convert to R134, since that is the only recharge that you will likely be able to find. The A/C system and compressor helps the defroster remove humidity from the air, before it blows it on the inside of your windshield. So it is a good idea to keep it working.

You can use the broken timing belt to turn the camshaft pulley by wrapping it around the camshaft pulley teeth, snug the two ends together and squeeze so as to get a good grip on the pulley teeth, and then spin the entire camshaft and pulley. If you were to temporarily remove the pulley, and place a white typo eraser paint tic mark on the exact opposite edge as the timing hole, you could use that white tic mark as your timing tic mark. Then you never have to spin your flywheel in order to set the timing belts correctly. I have done this to both pulleys. You then have one pulley with the hole aligned to the top and the other pulley with the white tic mark aligned to the top.

Lacy, you are getting ahead of yourself. Take the OTHER cover off and see whether the hole in that camshaft pulley is pointing straight up or straight down. Then, you set the driver side camshaft pulley hole exactly opposite. This is all assuming that you followed step 1. for the flywheel tic marks.

Avoid being confrontational with your mechanic. Avoid accusing him of making any mistakes. Phrase your suggestions as questions. If you get him mad, he can screw your car up in so many ways.

It is not simple. You will probably want to change your water pump at the same time. You will want to change both timing belts, not just the one that broke. If the timing belt tensioner pulleys are making noise when they spin, you will want to change out those as well. You start out be centering the timing mark arrow on the three tick marks on your flywheel, so that you can later set your camshaft pulleys in the correct position. 1. center flywheel tic marks on timing arrow, and lock flywheel in place with screwdriver in flywheel hole 2. remove auxiliary fan, if any 3. remove A/C plate over fan belts, if any 4. remove fan blade assembly from water pump 5. remove fan belts 6. unhook wires on battery terminals, remove alternator for easier access, (if sits outward of A/C) 7. drain and remove radiator, fluid can be reused if strain through paper towel filter 8. remove front timing belt covers on both sides 9. remove center crankshaft inertia pulley 10. remove center black cover behind pulley 11. remove broken belt 12. plan on replacing rear most belt first 13. loosen timing belt tensioner pulley bolts slightly 14. note whether hole in outer edge of camshaft pulley is either straight up or straight down, they will be reinstalled opposite to each other 14. remove timing belt 15. test timing belt tensioner pulleys for bearing noise, and replace as required 16. replace water pump as required 17. realign hole in camshaft pulley to same position prior to removing the perfectly good belt 18. install new belt 19. set timing belt tensioner pulley bolts in order to have timing belts tight 20. realign hole in opposite camshaft pulley to opposite position as the other side 21. install new timing belt 22. set timing belt tensioner pulley bolts 23. install all three front covers, at side covers use new rubber or nylon gasket between bolt heads and plastic cover 24. install crankshaft pulley 25. install radiator 26. install fan blades 27. install alternator and fan belts, and A/C plate over fan belts 28. install aux. fan 29. refill radiator 30. hook up battery terminals 31. REMOVE screwdriver that was inserted in flywheel 32. start up and reset timing 33. take for test drive 34. be happy, happy, happy

Pull the plug, attach plug wire to plug, ground the plug on the block away from the plug hole, start engine and see if you see a spark. I have been only getting 14,000 miles on my plugs. The metal contact inside of the plug wire ends, could also be corroded or broken.

If either of the 2 boots between the intake manifold and the turbo, have loose clamps, it will fall on it's face when it warms up. The boots will get soft with heat, and allow the pressurized air to escape.

As you can see here, there is a wide difference in opinions as to the advantages of the Gen 3's. I have used all the generations. From my experience, the Gen 3's are less likely to leak coolant when a crack forms between the intake and exhaust valves. A cylinder head builder mentioned to me that the Gen 3's were worth their weight in gold. A valve grinder mechanic went so far as to warranty the Gen 3's against leaks between the valves. Subaru themselves, represented the Gen 3's as being better than the previous generations. They apparently are so special, that their identification is not something that cylinder head rebuilders like to educate the public about. Their work load was dependant on the public using the older generation cylinder heads, in my opinion.

88RxTuner said

Just buy a couple of genuine Subaru O-rings and you will see the difference. The engine gets hotter than boiled water. Your engine will tell you when you better fix the problem, when it gets louder from the oil being choked off from getting to the hydraulic lifters.

Hill holder is part of the brake. Brake peddle is on the right. Clutch peddle on the left. They are not supposed to be connected. Perhaps something is bent up inside of the clutch disc area of the transmission.

The only real resistance to the clutch peddle on an EA82 GL, is the spring above your toes on the clutch pedal, and possible kinks in the clutch cable. Any kinks will wear the cable out and not allow the clutch pedal to return to it's at rest position, without some resistance. The spring has some adjusting nuts that can slightly change the pedal pressure required to disengage the clutch. I don't recall any springs in the clutch disc area of the transmission itself, that would cause increased pedal pressure.

If they were not high temperature rated O-rings, then they will melt under high oil temperatures, and seep into the oil port in the direction of flow. Been there, done that.

In Portland Oregon, you go to Mountain Tech in Oregon City. http://www.mttechsuba.com/

That turbo is an EA82 turbo and is both oil and water cooled.

Doesn't it depend where the 5-speed came from? For instance, I have a 3.7 ratio, 5 speed stick with push button 4wd, and LSD, on my 86 GL10 turbo. Did the 5 speed stick option come on a non-turbo ea82?

The numbers on the glass do not absolutely mean that the glass panels are the same from year to year. Perhaps Subaru went with a different supplier with the later years, who may have fudged the specifications. Despite being warned from a Subaru mechanic that the glass panels are different between the 86's and the loyales, I personally installed loyale side door glass on my 86 wagon. I then experienced annoying whistling coming from the edges of the glass that were unsealed, while travelling at highway speeds. I then removed the glass and actually measured the glass curvature at the trailing edge. Since I had saved my original 86 side door glass that I had previously removed, I also measured the glass curvature on that piece at the same location. As I recall, the loyale had a noticieable and measurable increased curvature. That is my test results, as well as the field results of my installation. I then chose to polish up my original glass and reinstall it. I experienced no annoying whistling with the original side door glass.

why not just find a set of plastic retainer rings at the junk yard?

Openable side glass curvature changed slightly between the 86 and the loyale. The curve is sharper in the loyale, which would tend to imply that there was slightly more curvature in the door frames and then the body.

Subaru shops will smear brake fluid all over both boots, in order to cause them to disintegrate within 30 days, and bring you back for more work. Have you been doing that?