scoobiedubie

It sounds like the belts are not messed up on the cam gears, since it started and ran in the past. The low cylinder head pressure is most likely due to either loose cylinder head bolts and/or the cylinder head gaskets need to be replaced. It is easier to attempt to tighten the cylinder head bolts than to do a tear down to replace the head gaskets, by far. You will need to remove the camtower covers on both sides, and the top horizontal tube that is held by one or two of the camtower bolts. And a short 17 mm x 3/8" socket.

Miles appears to mean that only two cylinders on one side are firing at the right time. because the camshaft on the one side was not offset 180 degrees from the other side, upon installation of the timing belts. Just remove the outer most timing belt covers on the left front and right front areas of the engine. The cover bolts tend to freeze inside of the brass inserts that are embedded in the back side cover. You will be lucky if the bolts come out easily. When reinstalling those bolts on the covers, use either a rubber or nylon washer beneath the bolt head. Then they won't seize next time, from my experience.

Why don't you remove the CV joint, and then remove the keeper that holds the bearing? Don't be too surprised if the bearing is completely shot, as you suspected.

What proof do you have that the engine seized, given that you have an automatic?

Exhaust leaks in the exhaust crosspipe or at the crosspipe connections, will cause the turbo to not engage. When the crosspipe warms up, the cracks open up. But you should be able to hear that. The smaller diameter crosspipes, tend to crack around the connection to the bottom of the turbo. I believe that they come in 1 1/4" ID, 1 3/8" ID and 1 1/2" ID, as measured at the crosspipe to turbo connection. I prefer the 1 1/2" ID pipe myself.

Perhaps you discovered the hard way, why not to go to the expense of installing a used engine with 230K miles on it. And perhaps why the previous owner was finished with the car with that engine in it. My limit would have been 100K, for an engine replacement.

If you are getting black smoke before it dies, that could be indicative of too much gas. If the fuel filter is clogged, then you are starving the engine of gas at high rpm and you probably won't get any black smoke, but may act similar to as you describe. Another question is how does it idle. If it idles smoothly and without missing, then it is probably not an electrical issue. 85's are also notorious for the distributors going out. But when they go out, it may go suddenly without warning, or may temporarily kill and restart itself while cruising. The distributors also wear out the vaccuum advance mechanism, which can obviously cause problems at higher rpms. There are two plates that have three ball bearings between them. They develop grooves in the plates and the ball bearings get either gunked up or become out of round. You can clean the plates and easily replace the ball bearings, in order to give it some more life. You would want to always keep a spare distributor around. Also check your hot wire to your alternator. They tend to get hot, brittle and break near the alternator. But that would not be what causes your current problem.

I know for a fact that changing to Loyale stock springs will add 1 to 2 inches of lift of your body at the rear tire, compared to the 86 stock springs/shock that my vehicle came with. That is a fact. I know for a fact that 195/70/r13 tires are available because I walked by a set of 4 used ones that were for sale, at North Portland Pick-n-Pull today. That is a fact.

If you put that kind of lift on your subaru, then the car will become unstable at normal speeds on the freeway. Then you may die. Life insurance will not solve the problem that you will have created. I noticed how the stability in my subaru changed, just by changing my 86 gl10 rear shocks and springs, to loyale rear shocks and springs. I would recommend just doing that because it makes the car look a whole lot sharper and will not likely kill you so easily. Go with bigger tires if you want more lift. Stock tires were probably 175/70/r13. You might try something like a 195/70/r13.

Check the timing and adjust as required. Clean the pcv valve with brake cleaner. Lightly sand the corrosion off of the points in the distributor cap and the end of the rotor. Check the distributor cap top holes for corrosion that you can scrape out with a screwdriver. Check both ends of each plug wire for corrosion. Sand corrosion off. Install new plugs. Buy better gas.

Gloyale, If you reread my reply, it was clearly stated that it was for what I might do, "if I had already determined that the left side timing belt was not broken". I am not suggesting that the timing belt is not broken. I also do not own a 90 model year loyale, and am unfamiliar with the differences between the 90 and my 86 GL10. It is not my responsibility to know those differences, nor what modifications someone has done to his vehicle. As far as your opinion that my sharing of knowledge about how I might approach a similar situation that has happened to me many times, and Zek wasting his time by either reading about it and/or looking at his vehicle as a form of preventive maintenance, I am troubled by the tone of your entire reply. You appear to be in attack mode, which is completely uncalled for and inappropriate for this message board. In the future, I will just report you instead of spending my time explaining all this.

If it was an 86, I would be looking to install another distributor after determining that the left side timing belt was not broken. I also would be checking the black wire in the fusible link box for brittleness or breakage. I would also be changing the capacitor on the coil. I would also be checking the hot wire to the alternator for breakage or brittleness. That is the wire that is attached with a nut. I would also be checking the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. I would be checking that coil wire copper contact ends for corrosion. I would also be checking the distributor cap for cracks. I would scrape the corrosion off of the distributor cap points. I would lightly sand the copper end of the rotor. I would make sure that no wires became disconnected inside of the distributor and that they all were installed properly onto the tabs. I would check the timing. I would be removing a plug to see whether the tip is covered in gas. I would see whether the radio works without static.

Napa Auto Parts The water pumps have 2 length of stems. The non-turbo model uses the longer stem.

First thing you do is call: A Plus Auto Recycling at 884-884-2864 See if they have any subarus with the 1.6 engine. Get the cost including the core return value which what you will get for your rusted block. Naturally you are looking for an engine with 150,000 miles or less. You would prefer one from a car where the owner took care of the rest of the car, and did not put on aftermarket stuff. That helicoiled cylinder head bolt hole is probably the reason why coolant leaked into the cylinder and rusted it. It just is not worth the risk at this point to fix it, if you can pull a short block for a $140 and get $20 core return. I tried to clean up a rusted block before. It made it about 3000 miles before it started making a lot of strange noises. And it was not as bad as your short block.

Maybe your flywheel bolts are loose and it slips when you reverse the direction of the load to the transmission driveshaft.

Did you pull the PCV valve off and clean it out with some brake cleaner? That does wonders sometimes.

You already have one helicoiled cylinder head bolt hole. That is reason enough to scrap it because you can't get proper torque on helicoiled cylinder head bolts.

There is probably rust inside the engine block as well. You will never be able to get it all out. Even if you got is running again, it won't last more than a couple thousand miles. Cut your loses. Get a used one from a junk yard for a couple hundred bucks. Use that one as the core return. You will be light years ahead by not attempting to salvage that block.

The blower motor relay will look fried, if it has gone bad. Get a replacement at the junk yard. Mine went out twice in 350,000 miles. You will probably smell something burning, as soon as it goes. In the future, try not constantly running the fan on high. The defrost system also works to dehumidify the air before blowing it on the windshield. But it appears that the A/C has to be fully charged and functioning, in order for the dehumidify action to be working.

Until you fix it, you could just pull your battery hot terminal connector, after you park it every night. Then reconnect it every morning. If the battery is dead then, you have a battery that won't hold a charge. You could also go back and disconnect the after market stuff, especially the last thing that you installed, just before everything went haywire.

All you do is remove the three screws that hold the grill on, using a phillips screwdriver. Then in the grill area, remove the 3 bolts/screws that hold the lower part of the latch to the cross frame above the radiator. Most cables break right at the latch. The hood then lifts right up with the lower half of the latch attached. When attempting to thread the new cable into the hole that comes out underneath the hood, you duct tape a four foot long lead wire to the broken end of the old cable before removing it. After unbolting the latch handle by your left knee, you draw the old cable out and pull the four foot lead with it, but do not fully remove the lead wire. When you reinstall the new cable, you duct tape it to the bottom end of the dangling four foot lead, and then pull up on the four foot lead to pull the new cable back up through the hole beneath the hood. Piece of cake.

Why not just get used parts from a junk yard and fix it for about $50? All this time spent figuring out how to modify it to get an inferior car, seems pointless.

Your high/low beam head light switch is probably buried in your steering column. To change it, you may need to pull the steering wheel.

I use brake cleaner to take the oil off of the cylinder head and camtower. Before you start spraying it brake cleaner, lay a clean rag over your CV boots so that they do not get hit with it. For the gasket maker, I use ThreeBond 1211 silicone liquid gasket, that you can get in a good motorcycle shop. Once you smear ThreeBond on the contact surfaces of the two oil channels, and run a bead around the edge of the camtower, you let it sit for 20 minutes before installing it. Jack the car up on the side that you are working on, to keep oil from flowing out of the cylinder head, and to also help keep the rocker arms on the lifters. Hold the rocker arms in place with axle grease.

Go back and undo whatever you did, just before the TOD began. You might have gone with a lighter oil for instance. You also may have baked the engine and toasted the O-ring between the cylinder head and camtower. Replaced oil pump and/or the seals is not a simple task. Neither is resealing the 3 oil channels seals between the cylinder head and the camtower. The order that I would use to fix it is: 1. Go with 15-40W oil, instead of say 15-30W or 10-30W 2. Change the oil filter 3. Isolate which side the noise is coming from. Remove that camtower cover and feel for a soft hydraulic lifter. If no soft ones then you might take a chance and remove the camtower. Check again to see if you have any soft lifters. Replace any that are soft. Reassemble using the genuine Subaru O-ring and lightly butter the other 2 flat oil channel surfaces on the camtower with your gasket maker, that contacts the back side of the cylinder head. You will want to have both surfaces cleaned of all oil naturally, before apply the gasket maker. Using the same gasket maker, coat the edges and the groove on the camtower before assembly. 4. Then think about replacing the oil pump and/or the (2) oil pump seals. If you baked the engine, those seals may have lost their softness and lost their ability to seal. Once you get this far into the front of the engine, you can be replacing timing belts, follower pulley, tightener pulleys and water pump. 5. If this did not fix the TOD, perhaps the tick came from the other side of the engine.