scoobiedubie

I use Krylon Almond tan. It is an off white color. The original white is too white and was designed for use with the chrome rims. Good luck on finding any chrome rims. I would look at what center caps that you have to work with, and focus on a color that compliments both the center caps and the vehicle color.

Just for practice, why don't you change out all of your main fusible links, in the black box by the coil. Get some replacement wire links at the junk yard for a couple of bucks.

Shorted out? That could mean just about anything. The 86's tend to fry the hot alternator lead that screws onto the alternator. The lead gets hot, brittle, melts the covering and the wire breaks. The capacitor that is attached to and located at the coil, also goes bad and may keep the engine from starting. The black wire in the main bus fuse box, can also break with over 300,000 miles. That will keep it from starting. The distributors are problematic and make either suddenly cease to function, or the engine may get jerky at low speeds and temporarily cut out while driving.

Try retightening up the cylinder head bolts.

If they aren't working, they aren't clicking. A stethoscope may help you isolate which one isn't clicking, also.

For the GL/Loyale series 6 spoke wagon wheels, a plastic ring is required to line the center whole of the wheel, that the caps attach to. Then you may need to rebend the teeth on the cap, in order to get a firm grip on the plastic ring.

You do realize that the tube that you are referring is the "tube to nowhere". Although it is open at the thermostat end, it is closed at the turbo intake end. It does not really circulate coolant to anything.

What oil weight are you using? How many miles since the last cylinder head replacement? If the oil is too light, the oil can leak out of old hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters can go bad all by themselves. Also, if the previous owner had removed the camtower recently, he may have installed a standard rubber O-ring between the camtower and the cylinder head. Standard O-rings will melt and you will lose oil circulation to the hydraulic lifters and to the camshaft nobs. There are 3 oil channels between the cylinder head and the camtower. All 3 must have an additional seal to make your engine run it's quietest.

Distributor!

Before you do anything, pull your distributor cap off and lightly sand the corrosion off of the electrodes in cap. Also scrape corrosion off of the end of the rotor. Also check both ends of all plug wires for green corrosion. Also check the wire from your coil for attachment and for corrosion. You then need to determine whether it is not getting spark to the plugs, or gas to the cylinders. If you are getting gas, after turning the car over and immediately removing any plug, the plugs should be drenched in gas. If no gas on the plugs then the fuel pump would be your first choice to replace. If say you connect a timing light to the vehicle, and the timing light blinks, then you are getting spark. Or you could pull a wire out of the distributor cap, pull back the black rubber end protector to expose the end copper connector, hold that connector just above the distributor cap hole that it belongs to, and have someone else turn the engine over. If you can't either see or hear spark, then you have electrical problems. Look for other threads on electrical issues with loyales.

Steam out of a radiator, does not mean anything because we don't know how warm the car was when you popped the cap. Ordinarily, if it is warmed up, the coolant explodes out of the radiator and scalds your face. Most people only do that once. The vehicle may have had oil drain into the cylinder area through either the rings or the cylinder head gasket. Cylinder head bolts can be retightened in order to clear up some problems. Run it awhile to see whether the oil gets burned up from coating the cylinders/piston area. 139,000 miles is low. It should be barely broken in.

Better save the cross pipe if it did not rattle before it stopped running. They don't make them anymore. Better check what generation EA82 cylinder heads you have. The raised letter ID is on the bottom of each cylinder head. Gen 2's have EA82 with a solid line underneath. Gen 3's have EA82 inside of a rectangular box. If you have Gen 3's, they are worth at least $50, providing there are no exhaust port cracks. All others are just worth the $10 core deposit when you buy a used one from an autowrecker. The distributor is worth $50. Since the engine block and heads are aluminum, it is worth more per pound than the steel car. So it might be better to sell separately. How many miles on the engine? What generation cylinder heads do you have? You might be able to buy a similar fixer upper for say $400, that you can rob parts off of your current car, in order to fix the fixer upper. In which case, you will be saving a lot more parts than you have described above.

The guide channels for wheels that attach to the bottom of the glass panels, need to be regreased with lithium spray grease. The scratches in the glass can be mostly polished out with car wax and a buffing pad, attached to a drill. The white plastic guide wheels for the glass, should be removed, cleaned and the dirt removed. Try some super grade gas in order to get the bog out. Lightly sand the electrodes in the distributor cap, to improve performance. Chech all plugs wires for green corrosion in the connectors. Lightly sand the end of the rotor, to remove the corrosion.

It also comes down to mileage and whether you can do the work yourself. If you can't do the work by yourself, then the vehicle is effectively totalled where it sits because it will probably cost you as much to fix it, as it will be worth when it is fixed.

In my experience the bearing will go out at 325,000 miles and the U-joints never go out. The simple way to fix either is to buy a used driveshaft at the local auto recycler for about $50, and then you get both the bearing and the U-joints. I like parts with less than 150,000 miles on them.

If you leave the front cat alone, but install a 2 1/2" pipe running out of that to the muffler, and eliminate the rear cat, then you will notice an increase in horsepower of maybe 5 to 10 ponies. Don't expect any improvement in gas mileage.

Don't buy hydraulic lifters or water pumps from them. In my experience 100% of them will have defects.

You can raise the rear by 1 to 2 inches by buying some used rear loyale coil shocks. Makes it look sweet, without making it dangerous.

Better find a parts car with no mice because you cannot get the mice urine smell out of the heating system. Don't bother reinstalling whatever you take out.

There are a total of 3 oil passages that channel oil between the cylinder head and the camtowers, and those channels lead to the hydraulic lifters. The subaru O-rings only seal one of those channels. That other two channels like to be sealed with the same gasket maker as was used to assemble the camtower onto the cylinder head. I have assembled them both WITHOUT that gasket maker on those two flat surface areas that surround the oil channels, and WITH the gasket maker on those two surfaces. I did these two different assemblies over a 1 week time period so there were no other variables that came into play. I had noisy lifters WITHOUT the gasket maker, and quiet lifters WITH the gasket maker on those two flat surface areas. And the lifters continue to run quiet indefinitely.

The 85 & 86's are the mechanical/points distributors. 87 & beyond are the electronic.

And my subaru dealer also told me that defective capacitors can cause the engine to not function. Not only that, but entire cars were being taken to the junk yard, because the mechanic could not find the cause of the engine not starting, which the subaru dealer believed was due to that capacitor. The capacitor may have shorted internally, which would be a different scenario from the wire breaking. Subaru even made a completely different style to replace that little can like capacitor. The new style was a fully encased electronic board.

On 86 gl10's, the hot wire that goes to the alternator, incredibly melts every 15,000 miles, at a point within 10 inches of the alternator. It gets brittle, hot and then either snaps or melts. You will get symptoms of a weak alternator, exactly as you have described, just before that wire completely breaks. I recommend inspecting that wire by pulling away the black flexible tubing that protects it.

From personal experience, the engine would not start with a defective capacitor. Laugh all you want. Once I replaced it, then I could get it running.

On your next one, try squeezing some greese into the top hole, then seal it off with some rubberized gasket maker. The gasket maker keeps the dirt out of the bearings, and the greese makes the bearings and seals last longer. You won't catch your dealer doing this though.