scoobiedubie

Look for a tiny crack in the rib in the exhaust port, before you put it back in. If it has one, then you have another door stop.

When he disengages the rear differential, then he says that there is no problem. If it was just a rear wheel alignment issue, it would seem like the problem would persist when the rear differential is disengaged.

And if it still persists once you have all tires the same, you then need to find yourself another rear differential. An open slip differential will be more flexible to different sized tires between left and right. You won't be able to find a limited slip differential anyways.

I would check with the third rate subaru mechanics in your area. Don't call them. Just walk into their yard and see if they are parting out your vehicle. GL10's are very hard to find, so he probably saw you driving down the road and followed you home.

General, We are not attempting to solve all subaru fan belts problems in the universe here. We are just attempting to solve one problem. There is a lot of misdirection here, by those attempting to bring in the non-typical setups in order to get this gentleman to put two fan belts on his alternator, when previously he only had one fan belt. Simple problem = simple solution.

Reinstall your original subaru distributor. Try replacing the main wire between the coil and the distributor. Try replacing the distributor cap and rotor. A cracked cap will keep the engine from starting. Subarus have special coils so exchanging with one off of a V8 is probably a bad idea. If the capacitor that is attached to the coils on the 85 & 86's Subarus goes out, the engine won't start. Your capacitor may be part of the coil or hidden somewhere else. Find it and replace it, especially if the radio was getting a lot of static, just before the engine failed. The fusible link box sits in front of the coolant overflow bottle. The black fuse wire in that box gets brittle and breaks. That will also keep the engine from starting.

So in answer to your original question, no you did not receive the wrong part. You received a part that can be used in all of the EA82's, even the ones that incredibly don't have air conditioning, perhaps due to local climate (i.e. Finland). You can either leave the double pulley on and use just the rear most pulley to put the fan belt in, or you can remove the double pulley and reinstall your old single pulley.

I disagree and have looked at hundreds of subaru gls and loyales, and have not seen a single one that required 2 pulleys around the alternator. The primary purpose of the rear belt is to turn the AC pump, but it also turns the power steering. The primary purpose of the front belt is to turn the alternator and the water pump, but it also turns the power steering. The alternator sits so far forward that it is IMPOSSIBLE to connect the rear belt to the alternator.

You need two belts. However, only the front belt goes around the alternator.

Try installing a distributor off of a working vehicle.

If the single pulley has the proper alignment, then you can use it. The double pulley is so the alternator can be used on different vehicle models.

The need for fans is partly based on the relative humidy of the air. Humid air seems to reduce the cooling efficiency of the cooling system. If you live in dry Utah for instance, you could probably get away with something less than stock in the spring, winter and fall. Subaru's were designed to run in Japan however, which has a climate that is slightly cooler than most locations in the US. Which is why GL10's require a double core radiator, for instance. The cylinder heads are also real sensitive to heat build-up and tend to crack easily, causing a sudden large consumption of coolant. If money is no object with you, and you have oodles of time to keep replacing cylinder heads, if you can find them, then cut your own throat and yank out the fans. But I believe that you would be making a huge mistake by reducing the cooling efficiency of your car in any way, shape or form. I have had my GL10 for 400,000 miles, so I have a little experience with this issue.

EA82 should be in raised lettering on top of the block, in the front, between the power steering pump and the thermostat housing.

Used oil pumps are $21 at U-pull-it. You should be able to find a GL or Loyale with less than 160,000 miles on it.

You need all of your fans for slow driving up dirt roads. If the AC compressor works, it sucks moisture out of the air for the defrost position, prior to blowing the then dry hot air on the windshield. Otherwise turning on the defrost will do nothing because it will blow moist hot air on the backside of a cool windshield.

The vacuum pump that generates the suction that operates the defrost duct gates, is in the dashboard switch. The engine vacuum system is completely different.

The fin between the two exhaust channels that meet at the exhaust outlet, develops a tiny cross crack at one end of the fin. It apparently cannot be repaired. It leaks coolant into the exhaust stream without sending past the plugs. So a plug check would not reveal it. If a plug check does show a slight white residue on one of the four plugs, then you would have a crack between the intake and exhaust valves there, that also leaks coolant. They fixed this with the mpfi turbo heads but not with the spfi heads, with their GEN 3's.

If it is ticking from only one hydraulic lifter, then it is not the oil pump because they all would tick. You either have a sticky lifter or a collapsed lifter. A sticky lifter may be fixed as outlined by others. A collapsed lifter needs to be replaced. Do the easiest possible fixes first. 1. Clean oil and add an additive. Test it If not yet fixed then: 2. Remove camshaft covers and determine which hydraulic lifter is soft or collapsed 3. Buy however many you are going to need, but it is best to replace all of them. Also buy genuine Subaru O-ring that sits in lower corner of camshaft tower. Buy gasket maker. Buy new rubber seals for camshaft covers and bolts. 4. Remove camshaft cover and camshaft tower using proper procedures to enable proper valve timing upon reassembly. 5. Jack car up on side that you are working on to help keep rocker arms in place 6. Reinstall rocker arms with axle grease to hold in place 7. Set new O-ring to camshaft tower and hold in place with axle grease 8. Add gasket maker around two oil transfer holes at interior of camshaft tower face that contacts cylinder head. If you miss this or plug up these holes, you will still have loud hydraulic lifters. 9. Complete reassembly and test it. If not fixed yet then go for the oil pump reseal. You can easily replace the water pump and timing belts at the same time since you have to tear everything off of the front of the engine except the water pump, in order to get to the oil pump.

I know my 86 GL10 wagon came with the adjustable shocks which I long ago wore out. I know that Loyale wagon shocks sit the rear 1 or 2 inches taller than the GL fixed shocks. I now have the Loyale shocks on my 86 and it is starting to feel a little wobbly, but it looks really sharp.

The 2 air intakes are below the windshield trough and below the joint in the exposed plastic base trim on each side. Water can run through the base trim side joint and drip straight into the air intake. Also if you have a functioning air conditioner, the defrost will pump air through the air conditioner and cool it down to dehumidify it before it warms it back up and blows it on the windshield. When it cools down it drops water to the bottom of the ducts and it drips out of the duct joint on the driver side of the A/C cooling section. If you don't turn on the defroster, you probably won't have water on the rug. If you caulk the joint in the plastic trim, you can help keep water out that way. If you remove the plastic T edge trim at the base of the windshield, and caulk the plastic base trim directly to the windshield, you can help keep water from dropping into the air intake.

Might as well pop open the fuseable link box and check the black fuse wire. That gets hot, hardens and then breaks with age. It goes out with no warning. For the 86's, the capacitor that attaches to the coil goes out and will keep the engine from starting. The 88's are different and it may be built into the coil or alternator. The first symptom of it going out is a lot of static on the radio. Corrosion build up on the posts in your distributor cap will cause a rough engine. Scratch off the corrosion on the inside flat face with a flat screwdriver or fine sandpaper. A bad plug wire will cause a rough engine. If you have a spare long plug wire, you can rotate it around to all the plug wires as a substitute routing, and see if you get any better performance. The hot wire to the alternator, will get hot, harden, melt the insulation and break, on the 86's. The engine will not function with a broken wire. It runs real rough right before it breaks. A cracked distributor cap may cause engine failure. A distributor going out may first cause a red light on the dash to come on. Then suddenly, the engine won't start or it will go out completely while you are driving it. Always carry spares. The vaccuum actuated timing advance system inside of the distributor, gets rough or freezes up in the 86's, and causes uneven performance at different RPM's. The small black vaccuum pump on engine right, just behind the air filter, can go bad or develop cracks at the hose connectors. Engine runs rough with the ensuing vaccuum leak or failure. There are several gismos on top of the engine, that are part of the vaccuum system. Their hose connectors get broken from just working on the engine.

Rear housing? I had to drop my rear differential down, in order to get the space to slip the CV joints over the stub. And there is two ways to put the CV axle on. The right way and the wrong way. The lead pin hole on the differential stub, tapers so that the lead pin can only go in, in one direction. And the CV joint has a smaller and a larger hole. So you can only fit the pin through the larger hole of the CV joint, into the larger diameter hole in the differential stub. Since there is an odd number of grooves in the stub, if you don't have the right alignment, the holes then do not align. Maybe that is your assembly problem.

Black thing a ma jigs. I like rear door/doorwell gravel guards because that is what they do.

If you have to replace a speedometer gear, the vehicle is most likely totalled before you drive into the shop. They will probably want to get paid in full, up front. But a used one at the wrecking yard and replace it yourself.

The white smoke could be cracks in the exhaust port of your cylinder heads. Coolant is being blown into the exhaust lines as the engine runs. The crack apparently cannot be welded, so you need to find another cylinder head at the wreckers, if it is cracked at the exhaust port. Pull the exhaust manifold to check. Then light er up and see if you can see which side the white smoke comes from.