scoobiedubie

The stiff plastic pressure tubes that come out of the back of the controls and then plug into junctons, can easily come out of those junctions or become loosened so that you don't have a good seal. Check those. Those tubes lead to controls that operate the levers that divert the heated air flow.

The problem could be entirely just cylinder head bolts. Retighten them by removing the camtower cover and the top oil lubricating tube. Takes about 3 to 4 hours for both sides.

If you break it, you just glue it back into place with shoe goo.

The reason why the boots all went at the same time was because a certified Subaru mechanic intentionally smeared brake fluid on them, in order to bring the car back in, in 30 days. Probably trying to put his kids through Harvard.

You should be able to hear the fuel injectors clicking, when someone else turns the key. Did you use his or your old intake manifold? Are the plugs wet after cranking? Is a spark showing up if you pull a spark plug and keep it wired up while attempting to start the engine?

Testing the compression will most likely tell you how tight the cylinder head bolts are, which you will be removing to rebuild the cylinder heads anyways. Look at the odometer first. Look around the car to see what kind of condition the owner kept it in. If he kept it in good condition then he probably changed the oil regularly. Look for scrapes and dents below the car that show abuse. Look at the molding and paint to see whether they cared for it enough to keep it in a garage. Look at the engine to see whether they did any aftermarket stuff or had a mechanic do the work. Look for cracks in the exhaust port on the cylinder heads, if you intend to reuse them, because that tells you how hard the owner drove it. Look for torn CV axle boots because that tells you how attentive the owner was to the vehicle. Look for bumper or window stickers to see what kind of nutcase drove the car. I would not touch an engine that had over 125,000 miles on it, and/or also flunked the above inspections.

Pull one of the battery terminals if you want to clear the codes.

Both aluminum and brass are not magnetic. Valves, rings, pistons, crankshaft and bearings are steel. Cylinder heads are aluminum. Valve guides are plastic which may be gold in color.

You said that you were runing on regular fuel. The gas cap cover states that you should not be running on 90 octane or better, which is not regular fuel. Just pony up for some better gas and problem sovled. The engines respond well to super gas. My experience with regular gas is that they have problems climbing hills without having detonation.

The transmission drain plug may be magnetic from the factory. Remove it and be prepared to replace the 2 qts of transmission oil, and inspect that plug. If you have metal bits hanging onto it, then you just found the cause.

The throw out bearing should only be working during the periods when the clutch disc is not engaged, because the transmission drive shaft would not be spinning at the same rate as the flywheel. Once the clutch engages, then the transmission drive shaft is spinning at the same rate as the flywheel, causing the bearing to be stationary. With the transmission in neutral, the clutch disc should be engaged with no spinning of the bearing. It appears that you have a bigger problem than the throw out bearing. It sounds like a front bearing for the transmission drive shaft has gone out, since whenever the transmission drive shaft is spinning at slower speeds, you can hear the rattle. Easiest fix is to replace with a low mileage transmission from a wrecking yard, so that you can see the odometer and the condition that the vehicle was maintained in prior to it ending at the yard. Ideally, you would want to see a stack of Bibles in the back seat, the ash trays empty, not a speck of dirt anywhere, and with less than say 120,000 miles.

There never was synchro into first. Because you are supposed to not run those stop signs. Better fix that CV joint before you make any trips out of town.

There should be a notch in the distributor shaft, just below the housing, for a large O-ring tht encircles the shaft. Perhaps that O-ring is missing.

Cheap replacement parts in a wrecking yard will be real hard to find, since there are not many of those even in the wrecking yards anymore. The exhaust bolt has most likely been stripped out of the cylinder head, but he wasn't quite willing to say that. So you either have to install a helicoil in place and upside down, or pull the engine and install a helicoil, or pull the engine and install another cylinder head that you will not easily find cheap and then have valves reground. How lucky to you feel? 250,000 miles is when they start to need replacement parts on a monthly or weekly basis. That can get real expensive if you can't find those cars in a wrecking yard.

Sounds like a lot of trouble just to get rid of the most important feature of the vehicle, front wheel drive.

The distributor may require some rebuilding or replacement. The vaccuum advance system gets sticky, so that when you decelerate, the advance remains stuck at the higher rpm setting. If you take your distributor apart, you may see that two plates rotate relative to each other, with several ball bearings between them. The ball bearings get worn out and irregular grooves or dirt inhibits the travel of the corroded and pitted bearings. Although the bearings can be easily replaced from an ACE hardware and the dirt cleaned off, the irregular groove remains.

If the center caps are in mint condition, then they would be very rare. Those are pre 1985 x EA81 and earlier, center caps. The wheels look like they came off of loyales, which are 90 to 94..

Then there would be nothing to protect the front wheel bearings from all the road grime, on the engine side of the wheel.

RWD? What kind of Subari is RWD? Front wheel drive and 4WD is all that I have ever heard of. You can probably spend more on a custom drive line than the car is worth. Or you can simply go to the local wreckers and get an identical driveline from a 4wd car with less than 160,000 miles, and call it good. Some people squirt lithium grease in a can, on the problem area, in order to get them to the wreckers and back. Most likely, it is the guide bearing in the middle of the driveline, that is going out. They make a lot of noise and get real wobbly when they go bad. Forget about a custom drive line because then you get into clearance issues and support issues that are likely beyond your level of expertise to anticipate.

2 hours to disassemble 3 hours to reassemble Add 2 hours if you do the cam tower cover gaskets

First-Change plugs, rotor cap, rotor, plug wires and check timing. This may solve your immediate problems. Plug wires often corrode inside of the cap or at the plug. How does it run now? Second- Remove coil wire to distributor. Set timing mark on the center of 3 marks on the flywheel and insert screw driver in flywheel hole to keep it from spinning. Third- remove alternator, fan blades, radiator fluid, radiator, side timing belt covers. Fourth-Note location of timing holes now visible on the camshaft/timing belt geared pulleys. One should be straight up and the other straight down. The straight up hole aligns with a notch in the rear timing belt cover. Put mark of whiteout paint on the hole straight down pulley, that aligns with the top notch in the rear timing belts cover. Fifth-Remove center inertia pulley, center timing belt cover, timing belts, water pump, camshaft/timing belt geared pulleys and front support for the camshaft that is immediately behind the geared pulley. 6th- Replace the 2 large O-rings on each front camshaft support. Replace camshaft support. 7th-Replace w/ new water pump, 2 seals and attaching hoses and pipe. Install gasket sealer in top hole on water pump and let dry prior to replacing. 8th- Remove and replace all 3 timing belts pulleys with new. 9th- Replace camshaft/timing belts geared pulleys 10th- Without moving the flywheel from it's original set position, replace rear most new timing belt and carefully realign camshaft geared pulley where you initially found it aligning with a rear cover notch. 11th- Tighten first timing belt by tightening the spring loaded pulleys that you just replaced 12th-Replace front most new timing belt and carefully realign camshaft geared pulley where you initially found it aligning opposite to the first geared pulley. Do not move the other timing belt or it's geared camshaft pulley. 13th- Tighten second timing belt by tightening the spring loaded pulleys that you just replaced 14th- Replace all front timing belt covers, center inertia pulley, radiator, fan blades, alternator, radiator fluid, in that order.

137,000 would probably be the lowest mileage subaru in the wrecking yard. If it has no significant body damage and you have not let it set out in the sun for 19 years, it would ordinarily be a mistake to part your car out.

Go to the local Pick N Pull and take a picture of a car's vacuum lines that has just been put out in the yard.

If it has AC, does it blow cold? Does the coolant overflow require adding coolant? If so, how much and how often. Where the rust hides is the metal frame below the windshield. You won't be able to examine it unless you tear up the lower windshield trim and dig into the sealant. If it has On Demand 4WD, does it make noise when it shifts out of 4WD? What does the inside of the car smell like when you run the heater? Dead mouse perhaps? Is the driver side seat cushion and/or seat cover shot, or is the seller concealing the damage with a seat cover? Are little flakes of foam sitting on the rug below te driver seat, due to that seat foam breaking down? Are the battery acid levels up to snuff? How easy or hard does the hood release work? How easy or hard does the clutch peddle work? Do any spark plugs have abnormal levels of white residue on the electrode? Is the synchro out in any of the gears? What does a compression test reveal? Does the engine leak oil from the cam tower covers? Does the transmission leak oil? Has the engine been worked on and for what reason? Was the car stored outside or inside? What is the condition of the tops of the interior side door panels? Is it still the first engine? What does the engine sound like when you lug the engine and try to climb a hill? When driving on a smooth level road, do the front wheels pull one way or the other? Does the radio sound scratchy when you adjust the volume? Do the fan belts whine when you turn on the defrost or heater with the fan setting at high?

If you have been 4 wheeling through mud pits, the mud builds up on the inside of the wheel and stays there until you remove the wheel and clean it. That caked mud can turn you car into a giant vibrator. Not that there is anything wrong with that.