scoobiedubie

Your action of replacing the hill holder pulled some nice fat air bubble into all of your lines. You won't likely be able to push those bubbles out the bottom. You might try pumping on the brakes to force air bubbles out into the reservoir and keep the reservoir filled. It took me a lot of pumping and when I finally got it to a point that I felt that I could stop the vehicle but they were still slightly soft, I left it and let the remaining air bubbles work themselves out the top. The air bubbles did eventually work themselves out the top.

Or you can take the front plastic grill off by removing 3 screws, then remove the entire latch assembly with 4 bolts of varying sizes. The whole hood then lifts up with latch assembly still attached. You may have to cut off whats left of the cable, to completely free it up. Before removing the cable from inside the vehicle, tape a pulling wire to it and pull that wire into the vehicle cab so that your new cable tip can then be retaped to the pull wire. The pull wire then, you guessed it, pulls the new cable through all needed holes to come out underneath the hood.

I didn't have a valve ticking problem. I was taking it apart to put my old cylinder heads on another short block.

Do you have insurance that will cover a 100 mile tow @ maybe $5 to $10/mile? Since you mentioned that cell service is spotty, you need the full list. How long does it take to get a water pump shipped to wherever your car is towed to? Who is going to change it out? Where will you stay until the part arrives? How will you even be able to order the right part since there are 2 stem heights for Loyale water pumps? Do you have all the tools plus coolant to refill the radiator? Will the car be broken into prior to getting a water pump? Do you have anything valuable that you carry with you, but have to leave in the vehicle until you get parts? In general, a scary percentage of the population will steal something out of your car if they are pretty sure that they won't get caught. And those tiny spare tires only work for one flat. I had two flats inside of one hour once. I thank Les Scwab Tires for that since they use chewing gum to patch tires. All of that hassle could be avoided if you just had the spare parts on hand to begin with. You will need the parts sooner or later anyways, so you might as well buy them sooner.

I have tried it both ways. The engine runs quieter with gasket maker on those two surfaces. When I first took my engine apart after the Subaru mechanic worked on it, there was signs of gasket maker having been applied to those interior surfaces.

I used ThreeBond 1211 Silicon Liquid Gasket for the cam towers. It is available in motorcycle shops. The trick is that you apply it and let it sit unassebled for 20 minutes or so, until it stops running and becomes tacky. It is important to get as much drying to take place as you can get away with, before assembling the parts. And then don't forget to cleverly place this gasket maker on the two interior surfaces while still allowing the oil holes to not get plugged with the gasket maker.

If you are loosing coolant on a regular basis, then you have problems that need fixing. Like cracks in the exhaust port, cracks between the valves, loose radiator hoses clamps, holes in the radiator, loose water pump, or loose cylinder head bolts. Obviously, you need to find yourself a replacement right side cylinder head out of your local auto wreckers yard. You will learn much of how to install them by taking them apart. Better get a manual. And look on youtube for a demonstration. I went past the 300 k mark, years ago.

I always carry spare parts with me, especially if you are far from civilization. Things you may need: alternator distributor timing belts rotor cap rotor spark plugs distributor wires water pump fan belts radiator hoses tire repair kit extra 18 gage wire with bolt eyes and junctions fuel pump fusible link black wire coil vaccuum pump small vaccuum hoses duct tape enough tools to change timing belts in the boondocks a lantern a head lamp

while you have it apart, you should change out the 2 pulleys and gear in the front. You buy those and the belts on EBAY for about $80. Whole engine gasket kits are also on EBAY. Their exhaust gaskets are garbage, however. You might as well get cylinder head gaskets and valve guides, in the kit that you may buy. The O-rings only come from Subaru. You will probably spend more than $120. The oil pan leaks can be helped by just carefully tightening up the small bolts on the front, left and right sides, that have weakened with age due to heat.

There is one more set of possible causes. The assembly of the camshaft housing onto the cylinder heads, requires one special high temperature subaru O-ring and also gasket maker applied to two contacting surfaces on the interior of that housing. That gasket maker allows oil to be pumped to the center of the camshaft and out to the wearing surfaces. If it was not installed, then you can fix all the other gaskets that you can find, and it will not help stop the lifter noise. The O-ring allows oil to be pumped to the hydraulic lifters, which then allows the lifters to capture that oil and stay firm. The O-ring does get hardened from cooking the engine, and looses it's ability to seal. Not everybody installs the camshaft housing correctly. You may have bought the car from one of those mechanics. Furthermore, some fly by night sellers of hydraulic lifters import and resell some chineese lifters that are a complete joke. I walked into their distribution shack near Sweethome, Oregon, and returned my crappy ones that they sold me, in person. Boy were they surprised to see one of their customers that they swindled, show up on their door step. Rockauto will also sell their hydraulic lifters by the handfull and throw in a bunch of junk lifters, that will not pump up with oil. They also sold me a cracked water pump that they kept for special customers. Consequently, I don't buy anything from Rockauto anymore. Buy your hydraulic lifters from a Subaru dealer so that you can take it out of the box right there, and see whether it is already pumped up with and holding the oil. If and when you reinstall this housing, it helps to jack up one side of the vehicle front, in order to help hold the greased rocker arms onto the hydraulic lifters tips.

Better put in a full body roll bar because it sounds like you are going to need it.

If the cylinder heads are cracked between the intake and exhaust valves, on just one cylinder head, you will get the reserve bottle to overflow and the temperature gauge will go into the red without pushing the engine. You may also notice a deposit underneath the radiator cap and inside of the bottle, that came from the cylinder head gaskets. It may also only be loose cylinder head bolts, that allows hot compressed exhaust gases to be pushing back into the coolant system, resulting in coolant being then pushed into the reserve bottle resulting in overflows. Same symptoms. If you do a lot of high speed driving on hot days, then it could be the cylinder heads. If you don't, then it is more likely just the loose bolts. Depending on who you go to and what their agenda is, you will probably get either a cracked cylinder head or a blown head gasket diagnosis. They seem to never tell you that the cylinder head bolts may be loose. It takes about 1 1/2 hours per side to correct. Also, old radiators get clogged up with gunk and also cause overheating. When was the last time you cleaned yours out? If you just installed a new one or cleaned out your radiator and you still have overheating problems, then look to tighten up some loose cylinder head bolts. The only hose that carries coolant on top of the engine, connects to the thermostat housing. It is a short small hose. It is not the source of your problems. But it may get old, hard and crack, eventually resulting in coolant spray beneath the intake manifold.

It's a bomb! Dive out of the door, and keep low as you scramble to safety. Forget about calling 911, because whoever planted it is doing you a big favor, if it is insured that is.

1. If you can peel a blue interior off of an identical car at the auto wreckers, then buy it and take it home and reinstall it on yours. 2. Add a slight touch of silicone on each clear button, to keep the over button. 3. 2 bolts on each side control the tilt of the front bumpers which can be readjusted. 4. The top rails are riveted in place. Forget about removing them. Paint with Hi-temp black instead.

Som subaru dealers change water pumps at 15,000. I had one go at 23,000 miles and I was 50 miles from a tow, on an Indian Reservation, out of cell phone coverage and in the middle of the night. It was an all nighter driving 2 miles, pouring water on the engine, driving 2 more miles, etc., etc. I had at least 80 miles to get home in the middle of the night with no tows available. In order to replace the water pump, you have to drain the coolant, then remove: the radiator, the fan blades, the aux. fan, the balancer and all front cambelt covers. Changing the cambelts at this point in time then is a no brainer since belts are cheap compared to the labor to get to this point in tearing apart the engine again.

1. Ask the owner how often he needs to add coolant to the overflow bottle. If it was added to recently, then either the cylinder head bolts need tightening or the cylinder heads are already cracked. 2. Look under the engine for Gen 3 cylinder heads that are both marked with EA82 inside of a raised rectangular box. If it is either just EA82 or EA82 with a line underneath it, then they are the poorer Gen 1 or Gen 2 versions, which are more likely to leak coolant when the vehicle is driven hard and cracks formed between the intake and exhaust valve. So don't drive it hard. You want Gen 3's but probably won't get them. 3. Look for a white deposit in the tailpipe which is indicative of a cracked cylinder head at the exhaust outlet, or a cracked turbo. 4. A stick requires a new clutch plate every 125,000 miles if `you drive it easy. If a kid owns it, he probable toasted it already, just like the cylinder heads. 5. Drive it and floor it from a standing stop. Go through all the gears and look for synchro mesh to be out, because the gears will grind during fast shifting. The engine should sound real good. If you hear sucking or blowing noise, then you have a leak in the intake air system. If the turbo doesn't kick in then you have an exhaust leak, which should be making a lot of noise. Or the turbo is already shot. If you hear a rattle then the exhaust crossover pipe needs replacement but the new ones are no longer available and there is no after mark ones. 6. Shift it in and out of 4WD on the fly. You may hear a loud thunk when shifting out of 4WD. None or some noise is OK. (Look for LSD printed on the rear differential tag, which is what you want. Otherwise it is open slip differential) 7. Loof for UV damage to the interior doors right next to the glass. This happens when stored outside. 8. Let the engine idle and see if it shakes. Shaking says that the timing is off or you have a bad plug or plug wire connection. 9. Look at the plugs for the same color on all plugs. If one is blacker then you may have an oil leak from loose cylinder head bolts. If one has more white deposit than the others, then either the cylinder head is cracked or the cylinder head bolts are loose. 10. With the engine in neutral, run it up to 2700 rpm and see if it shakes. If it shakes then the suction pump in the distributor may be getting resistance from the vaccuum advance system inside the distributor, and needs rebuilding. 11. Look at the fusible links for a brittle black wire, which would mean imminent failure due. 12. Turn on the radio as see how scratchy it is when changing stations by hand. 13. Look at the color of the oil. 14. Look for a film deposit in the bottom side of the radiator cap. It it is there then the engine overheated recently and blew cylinder head gasket material back into the coolant lines. Or you have a serious crack between the valves. 15. Look for uneven wear on the front tires, which indicates an alignment problem. 16. Follow the car in another vehicle and see if it tracks straight. 17. Look for any offset between the hood and the quarter panels which indicates that it has been in a crash. 18. If the drivers seat has seat covers, peel them up and see how bad the cushion is. It can be replaced but you need an intact OEM cover. 19. Find out when the water pump and timing belts were replaced last. The water pumps must be replaced every 20,000 miles and the belts get done at the same time. 20. Look for a double core radiator because they need them. 21. Kick the tires and see if they fall off.

FWIW, the 87 GL is supposed to be the worst Subaru GL/Loyale ever made which is why craigslist is full of them. The Loyales have a slightly greater curvature to the side window glass than the GL's so don't swap glass from one for the other. The loyales rear coil spring/shocks were taller by 1 to 2 inches. They can be interchanged and make the GL's look a little sharper, especially the 85 & 86s. The Loyales have the automatic shoulder straps. The GL10's have an updated cylinder head upgrade available that are more resistant to leaking coolant from cracks between the intake and exhaust valves. Not true however, for the GL/Loyale SPFI cylinder heads. The Loyales get some pretty impressive gas mileage.

Sounds like you have a leaky cylinder head gasket from loose cylinder head bolts, and an intake valve is not sealing possibly from the standard crack between the intake and exhaust valves. It is probably also spraying coolant and the overflow coolant bottle empties real fast. Simple fix. Get a rebuilt cylinder head with no cracks, and clean those cylinder head bolts off real good before reinstalling them.

The wire that runs into the back of the alternator, gets hot and melts on some models, like mine. I just test to see how brittle the last few inches of wire are and replace that section every 15,000 miles. When it goes bad, the alternator won't recharge the battery, which then goes dead and the engine won't start, nor will the dash board light up because the batttery is dead. How's your battery? Have you been to a Subaru dealer lately? They have all sorts of methods to sabotage your car in order to take it off the road, and put you in another one. The distributors also go bad in some models, like mine. Get a low mileage replacement at an auto wrecker and see if that makes any difference. The critical black wire in the fusible link module, gets hot, brittle and either breaks or melts. If your car has over 375,000 miles, like mine, you would want to change that little bad boy out with a much lower mileage wire.

Since your car is a junker, you would be completely wasting you money doing an EJ swap. Since loyale prices have come way down, the cheapest thing to do if you already have about $1500, is buy a much lower mileage loyale of the same transmission and year. Then you keep your old car for parts, if you can keep it stored dry. An EJ swap can probably only be done by someone who has done it before because of things like the electrical wire harnesses, the transmission, etc. And also if you did an EJ swap, you would have to walk to pick up your replacement engine and parts. Humping a 500 lb engine on your back for 10 miles, could be a bit of a workout. Before you do anything, you should attempt to tighten the cylinder head bolts with a 3/8" x 17mm socket, by simply pulling off the camshaft covers. If they can be tightened at all, then that could have been your problem in the first place.

The key to not having to retighten your cylinder head bolts every 7000 miles ad infinitum, is to clean the entire bolt and washer thoroughly in for instance, brake cleaner and use an air compressor to blow them dry while the cleaner is still on them. Then you do the same thing with the bolt holes in the block. If you can't eat rice with those bolts, then they aren't clean enough. You want those bolts to be squeaking when you put the final turn to them. And then you retighten them at 7000 miles, and keep an eye on both the compression and the plugs. The plugs might get oily for instance, when the bolts get loose. Or you get coolant in the cylinder. When the bolts get loose, you also start to lose a little coolant from the overflow bottle. In the weeks that follow, you will lose it at a faster and faster pace until it finally dawns on you what the problem is.

Funny you should mention catastrophic failure because brake fluid is what the certified Subaru mechanic rubs on the CV boots so that they both tear themselves apart at almost exactly the same time. Takes about 30 days to come apart, as I recall. And when they replace both of your front CV axles, something else will come apart in another 30 days.

On the EA82T, there is a rubber coolant line that plugs into the top of the block, just eneath the intake crossover. The rubber line get old, hard, brittle and leaks with heat and age. That could also be the culprit. It is a bear to replace.

It is simpler than rotating the flywheel 180 degrees. While you have the camshaft pulley wheels off, you put a straight edge on them and find the exact opposite side of the pulley from the little timing hole on the face. Then you mark that point with some whiteout paint. When you are then setting the belts in the correct notches on the camshaft pulley, one pulley will have the timing hole aligned with the notch in the rear plastic cover, and the other pulley must have the whiteout mark aligned with the notch in the rear plastic cover. You might need a special wrench to twist the bolted in camshaft pulley, to the correct position. Leaving the front covers off should not be done if you like to drive through mud, as it will cause your cambelt pulleys and oil pump, to get dirt into the bearings faster.

Doesn't the engine with the automatic have a different housing than the engine with a stick, that bolts into the back of the engine? The flywheels are different.