scoobiedubie
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Posts posted by scoobiedubie
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No. The flaps are made to match a specific contour of quarter panel surrounding the wheel well.
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Check the cylinder head pressure for each cylinder, before you take it apart. Low pressure indicates a leaky cylinder head gasket or the valves. High pressure means that side is OK for now.
The gurgling is the coolant inside the radiator is down, most likely due to loose cylinder head bolts.
The oil spray under the hood could be a leaky oil cap, or transmission oil from those tubes. There is no other oil carrying lines on top of the engine.
You probably have lose nuts on the bottom of the cylinder that holds the exhaust manifold on. Check and tighten all connections on the exhaust system under the engine compartment.
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You are overlooking the biggest problem. The cross over pipe. Subaru does not make them anymore. The coolant in the cross over pipe most likely came from a cracked fin in the exhaust port. Which is unrepairable. There are two other sources of coolant in the exhaust. One is the crack between the valves, and the other is lose intake manifold bolts that causes coolant to be pumped into the intake air. You can also have a cracked turbo that allows coolant to be boiled into white smoke and exhausted. Were you racing this car before it fried itself?
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Try another distributor, another coil. Check the brittleness and thus the lack of conductivity of two wires. The first wire is the engine ground wire where it connects to the body in front of the battery. The second is the black wire coming off of the + battery terminal, that goes into the bottom of the fusible link box. The critical end is at the battery end of that black wire. You may have also disconnected some main electrical harnesses and forgot to reconnect them around the air intake box.
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The secret fix that is not mentioned above is as follows:
You will need to take the cam towers off in order to get at the hydraulic lifters. First you check all the lifters to see whether they are rock hard. You replace the ones that are not, which are most likely going to be the ones that make the noise. Then when you reinstall the cam tower onto the cylinder head with Three Bond 1211 gasket maker, besides adding the special Subaru O-rings, there are two contact surfaces that have oil holes that allows oil to pass between the cylinder head and the cam tower. You will want to lightly dab a little Three Bond on those surfaces but not so much that installing the cam tower will press the Three Bond into the oil passage holes in the middle of those contact surfaces. You will also be retorquing the cylinder head bolts, while you have the cam towers off.
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I've had no problem fitting a 185/70/13 fully inflated under the hood.
Unfortunately, this does not solve my problem. I think you read my original post a little too quickly!
If you look closely when you shut the hood, there is an offset at the side joints where the hood sits higher than the quarter panel joint edge, when you use a fully inflated full size 185/70 tire.
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If you let a lot of air out of the tire and then carry a tire pump, you can put a full size 185/70/13 tire under the hood.
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Ebay has a lot of parts. Check there before attempting to swap with a different model and year.
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There is an electronic switch that is attached to the back end of the ignition key switch. On my car, the ignition would allow the engine to turn off, even though the key was in the running position. I replaced that switch. You have to carefully remove the upper and lower plastic covers for the steering column, which requires removing a bunch of screws, in order to access the switch.
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Why not just use loyale spring/shocks because it raises the back end by about and inch or two. It makes it look a lot classier.
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The trick with cylinder head bolts is to tighten them as tight as you can get, them. Then let it sit over night and come back and try and get a little more squeaks out of it the next day. The other trick is to use perfectly clean washers and bolts, along with the cylinder head should be degreased. That combination helps hold the torque. If you have never done it before, note that the cylinder head holes have both shoulders on them and no shoulders on them. The cylinder head bolts are two different lengths. The longer bolts go in the holes with shoulders. If you put the short bolts in holes with shoulders, then you will strip out the thread in the block. Which is very bad news.
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Or you can access the little bolts on 3 sides. That will take away 75% of the leak. You might want to buy new bolts because the old ones soften with age and tend to break when you put torque on them.
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A cracked turbo, a cracked middle fin in the exhaust port, loose intake manifold bolts to the cylinder heads, and leaking intake manifold gaskets will all cause white smoke to billow out of the exhaust.
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The glass curvature changes between the GL and the Loyale. They are both marked with the same number however. The outside roller may be putting too much pressure on the glass, when it hangs up on the inside top seal. However, the outside roller are fixed and only the inside rollers are adjustable.
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There is a toothed pulley on the left side, that the left timing belt teeth turns. They need replacing every 60,000 to 100,000 miles. It could have seized up. The oil pump also has teethed gears that the left timing belt teeth turns. It could also have seized up.
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It also could be the cap to the brake fluid reservoir is warped and does not seal properly. A leak there will work it's way over the the hill holder cylinder and make it look like the cylinder is leaking.
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If you still have white smoke coming out of the exhaust, after you have thoroughly warmed up the engine and exhaust system, and burned any coolant that may have drained in there from working on the engine, then your turbo is toast. This assumes that there are no external coolant leaks around the turbo.
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Maybe the steering fluid level is too low.
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Add fluid to the transmission and differential. I thought that the LSD only came on the 3.2 ratio gl10 turbo models. The standard gl is a 3.8 ratio, as I recall. They cannot be mixed.
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Similar issue.
Just changed the fuel filter, cap, rotor and plugs. Car was running and starting just fine but now, after changing all of these tune up parts, no crank. It will turn-over but won't crank.
I have fuel past the new fuel filter, checked that. Triple checked firing order and wire orientation on cap. Placed the old cap and rotor back on to test that theory out. Nothing. Battery is plenty strong.
I bought an Accel coil and hooked it up incase I fried the coil. Nothing.
Could it be the distributor????
A bad black wire in the fusible link box will cause it to not crank over. A broken distributor side, cam belt will prevent the car from starting but the engine will crank over. A leak through the intake manifold gasket will prevent the cylinder with the leaky gasket from firing even if it has both gas and spark. A disconnected coil to distributor wire will keep it from starting but allow it to crank over. The wire coming off the + battery terminal that goes to the fusible link box, gets hard at the battery terminal end and may break on high mileage vehicles.
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But try and put it back together with the pistons connected, because squeezing the rings around 4 pistons simultaneously is going to be problematic.
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I like my idle in the 1200 to 1400 rpm range. Accessories like headlights and A/C will lower the idle when they are turned on. You should set it for the lowest rpm that it currently will get with all accessories on. I believe 800 rpm is minimum in the manual. The higher the rpm, the less likely you will stall the engine when starting out at a stop sign.
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You can only pull a small trailer with a GL, and only if it has no profile that is larger than the GL itself. You could crack your cylinder heads if you try to drive above 60 mph.
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The codes vary for different years, so be sure you are using the right codes.
Ignition timing adjustment issues
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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The contributor above was referring to "one tooth off" on the gear inside of the back of the camtower that you cannot see, where the distributor inserts in a hole. Not one tooth off on the timing belt gear at the front of the camtower. I concur. When setting the timing, the timing belt gear hole mark must be exactly up or exactly down. Opposite on each side, in other words. The flywheel triple marks should have the fixed pointer mark, point to the middle mark of the triple marks. Then, in order to fix your problem, you will be loosening the distributor and partially lifting is up until you can swing the rotor one notch one way or the opposite way.