scoobiedubie

1. Replace all relay switches under the dash. 2. Look for hardening in the black wire that comes off of the hot lead on your battery. That black wire goes to the bottom of the fusible link box. If it is hard then you are going to have to splice in a new section of wire by splaying the new wire with the old black wire, because standard couplings do not work. 3. Look for hardening in the ground wire that lies in front of the battery and connects to the frame. The frame end of the wire at the connector gets hot when that wire needs to be replaced. 4. Look for hardening in the hot wire coming off the back side of the alternator. If hard, then splice in a new section of wire using a coupling.

Simply using loyale rear coil overs will lift the rear 1 or 2 inches.

Hydraulic valve lifters are $40 each at any Subaru dealer. With parts growing even harder to get, I would think that Hawaii would be a bad place to ship it. And then it will turn to rust.

A is a bomb. Just kidding. I would guess that B or C are the relays that go the the heater/blower fan, because that is where they are on the EA82's, with C being the most likely candidate. Just pull one at a time and see what does work.

When the blower motor does not work in the 1.8l GL's, the problem is more likely a plug in relay under the dash board, just above your left knee. I have no idea where the relays are on the 1.6 GL's.

If you have a rattle but no leak, try this. The rattle comes from loose weld material rattling around inside the heat shield. Remove the pipe and by shaking it, try to locate the area where the metal pieces have room to move. Then, carefully grind a hole in the heat shield, where you think that the metal piece can be coaxed to leave the heat shield. Then no more rattle.

Could be the bearing on the right side, just inside the transmission housing. It could provide just enough resistance to cause the symptom that you describe.

Use solid inserts, not helicoils. Helicoils are just a single strand of wire.

Must be a lot of wobble on the distributor shaft. There shouldn't be any. It is time to find another distributor.

See "heater blower circuit" thread. It looks like the problem is a relay under the dash. Mine is now back running for the 95 degree weather, thank you very much.

In reading further, it is probably not the distributor. But pick up a spare the at the junk yard, at the first opportunity.

Sounds like the distributor. What year is your ride?

With all the experts on this board, who have never been stumped, I just cannot believe that not one of them knows the answer to this question.

My heater fan quit functioning simultaneously with my A/C compressor, when I turned the engine off. Now, neither will turn on again. In the past, the heater fan occasionally stopped working, but then it eventually comes back. I have check the fuses and fusible links. I have changed out the heater fan switch, the interior heater fan itself, and the pulser amplifier. There is suction in my dash mounted control unit with 5 buttons. From the manuals, my remaining options are "the mode actuator", "the mode control unit" and the "A/C max unit", non of which do I know where to find or what they look like. Does anybody have any previous experience in solving this issue, and could you please point out where I might find the most likely culprit that is screwing up my ventilation system.

Ebay has them. Until you pull the ball joint out, and test it by see how much play there it, you can't really tell whether they are toast yet. Ball joints are more likely to go out than the the steering joints.

I have taken apart the steering wheel covers and replaced the spring mechanism by using parts from a used vehicle. It is not a big deal. You do not need to change keys.

Spare distributor, cap, rotor, black fusible link wire, engine ground wire, alternator, condenser at coil, coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs, tire repair kit, 1 gal. of engine coolant, thermo sensor at extra radiator, water pump, full size tire spare, extra oil filter, extra and timing light.

There are holes in the top edge of the flywheel that you can see through the timing hole. Stick a screwdriver in that hole, to keep the flywheel from spinning.

There is a tool that can reach down inside and pick up something. It has four pinchers that come out of the wire tube, when you press on the thumb knob at the other end. It can grab the round end of the wrench, or the main shaft of the wrench.

Timing could be off. Vacuum advance could be disconnected. The distributor could be shot due to internal swing weight mechanism. The intake manifold could leak coolant into the combustion chamber. The cylinder head gaskets could be leaking. The cylinder head bolts could be lose.

How many miles on the body? Anything over 250,000 miles, can have issues with wires losing conductivity at connectors. The three most likely include 1. the engine ground wire at the chassis connector, 2. the black wire between the battery + terminal and the fusible link box, at the battery end, and 3. the hot wire to the back side of the alternator, at the alternator end.

They are not accurate when the heater is running.

The ringed groove is for the genuine subaru O-ring that seals the transfer path of oil into the head, and into the lifters. It is at the lower rear edge of the cylinder head. If you touched that groove with sandpaper, you might as well toss the entire cylinder head. There are also 2 more oil transfer ports. Those ports require a little bit of cylinder head gasket maker around the outside of the hole, in order to improve the oil pressure that pumps up the lifters and help your engine run real quiet.

Your local radiator specialty shop may carry them. Except take along the thermister on the right side, that activates the auxiliary fan. Some double core radiators, put a shoulder over the threads that the thermister screws into, so that only 1/2 thread gets engaged. Then it leaks, falls out and dumps your coolant onto the ground.

The car is frequently totalled, prior to taking it in to have a mechanic work on it. For instance, the value after when you just got a new clutch with new front wheel bearings, minus the cost of repairs, is less than zero. Just sayin.