scoobiedubie

Mice nest between the main radiator and the A/C radiator. Thermostats wear out and freeze up. Old radiators lose their ability to cool properly due to a buildup in the cross tubes. Cars with A/C should have a double core radiator.

Get a used coil from the junkyard, and see if it works better than the new one. The clicking could be the starter not engaging. It is most likely an electrical issue. If the black fusible link had broken, you would not be able to crank it. The black one runs the engine. Is the battery dead? A bad alternator will not recharge the battery and the car won't run either. Clean the corrosion off of the 4 electrodes that the rotor passes the spark to. Check the spark plug wires for corrosion and breakage.

The car would already be totalled, if you have to replace the tranny with a new one. $300 tops.

Don't expect anything special about the Subaru filters, other than getting hosed on the price. I use standard auto store filters, but you have to beware of the larger diameter filters that NAPA claims will fit. They go on but do not have enough clearance to the back of the auxiliary fan strut that holds the fan motor. When you hit a bump, that strut cuts through your oil filter and you have a sudden lose of oil pressure and oil. I change oil every 2500 miles and oil filters every 5000 miles.

For those that use covers, and don't want the bolt through the front cover to freeze lock into the rear cover, use a rubber or hdpe washer.

The black wire in the black plastic fusible link box, (between the battery and the radiator overflow bottle,) is the one that gets fried from jumping issues.

I replaced my heater core after failing to be able to clean it in place.

The process of reinstalling the cylinder head, relies heavily on certain factors. 1. All of the washers and the bolts should be thoroughly cleaned with wire brush, carburetor cleaner and all gunk removed from threads. Clean out the cylinder head bolt holes with carburetor cleaner and compressed air. 2. There are two length of cylinder head bolts. There are two heights for the shoulder seat of those cylinder head bolts. The shorter bolts fit only in the shorter height seat. If you put a short bolt in the taller seats, you will strip out the threads in the block. 3. You tighten all bolts by working from the center out. 4. You tighten them as much as you can with presumably the specified torque, AND THEN YOU LEAVE THE BOLT HEADS EXPOSED OVERNIGHT AND COME BACK AND RE-TIGHTEN THEM THE FOLLOWING DAY. 5. For the camshaft tower, you need the genuine subaru washers, for the main oil inlet into the tower. Hardware store O-rings cannot be used because they will melt. 6. If you want a quieter engine, you dab a little of the gasket maker on the two flat surfaces surrounding oil transfer holes in the tower, that contact the cylinder head. Don't put so much on those surfaces so that when you squish everything together, that you plug up those oil transfer holes. Allow the gasket maker to become tacky before reassembly.

Give me your phone or email and some weekday night, I can drop by and see if it anything obvious.

There is one in Gaston Oregon and one in Laurelwood Oregon. This is the Laurelwood one; PARTING OUT SUBARU,S; 1979 THRU 2009 HAVE PART,S, FOR Legacy,s,Impreza,s Forester,s WRX,s Loyale,s. GL,s, DL,s SVX,s and Justy,s. Have lot,s good part,s engines, tran,s, wheel,s ,etc You can call or e-mail at 503-936-9579 or 503-985-7110 John Lemley

Look for mouse nests in the intake, below the air filter. Look for mouse nests between the radiators. Look for mouse nests in the heater air intake, but that does not affect engine performance. Look for mouse nests in the exhaust pipe and muffler. If there is a loud hissing sound coming from the engine, just before it falls flat on it's face, then some hose clamps are lose between the turbo and the intake manifold.

If you don't retighten the belts after initially installing them, they get loose and are then more vulnerable to stripping off the belt teeth.

A severe crack can cause the valves to no longer be fully seated. I always thought that the plugs showed coolant getting into the exhaust chamber from the crack, but it could have been the intake manifold gasket leaking, as well.

There are 6 locations for common electrical problems can occur on the 86 GL10, where I had problems. 1. The black fusible link broke from getting hot and brittle 2. The hot wire coming off the alternator breaks from getting hot and brittle 3. The engine ground wire at the body connection end, gets hot and brittle while engine is running, and loses it's conductivity 4. The black wire that runs between battery + connector and the bottom of the fusible link box, gets brittle at the battery end. 5. The capacitor between the coil, the ground, goes out. 6. The starter wire at the battery + connector, breaks.

Are all of the wires connected inside of the distributor? Is the vacuum advance connected to the distributor? Did you check the timing? Did you try substituting in another distributor, to see if it works better? Are the inertia weights inside of the distributor, worn out and do not swing out properly?

13 year old gas? There is your problem right there. Dilute it with new Premium gas, in order to bring the octane up.

For cars with over 250,000 miles, the ground wire looses it conductivity at the end that connects to the body. That connection is just in front of the battery, on top of the main body cross strut. It is clearly visible. When the engine is running, that wire at the connection will get hot enough to burn your hand. You would then need to replace that wire with a much lower mileage or new wire. That is what the Aussie is referring to. Another important wire connector for engine performance, is the black wire connector at the hot battery terminal. That wire then connects into the bottom of the fusible link box. It also gets brittle and loses it's ability to conduct electricity, at that connector. You would need to splice in a new wire there because you cannot remove the other end from the fusible link box. Just try and bend the wire right next to the connector. If it is hard to bend, then it has become brittle and lost it's ability to conduct electricity.

Have you backed the idle screw out (counter clockwise), so that it idles higher yet? It is just behind the turbo intake manifold and you access it from the top.

I just remembered that I have an extra connector. There are 7 total connections. Starting from the left side. 1st slot has no wire 2nd slot has no wire 3rd slot, yellow/blue 4th slot, green 5th slot, blue/yellow 6th slot, yellow/red 7th slot, green/white

Eat more cherios, lift weights, etc.

PARTING OUT SUBARU,S; 1979 THRU 2009 HAVE PART,S, FOR Legacy,s, Impreza,s Forester,s WRX,s Loyale,s. GL,s, DL,s SVX,s and Justy,s. Have lot,s good part,s engines, tran,s, wheel,s ,etc You can call or e-mail at 503-936-9579 or 503-985-7110 John Lemly

Mine runs like a swiss watch, but I can't see which wires go in which connector on the plug. Try running some seafoam through the intake system. Usually there are broken nipples on the vacuum line system that runs over top of the engine, that screws up the idle. Your distributor wire connectors could be corroded either at the plug or at the distributor cap. The electrodes in the distributor cap, pick up corrosion fairly quickly that should be scrapped off.

You might change out the condensor on the alternator. You might check wire connectors for brittleness and/or breakage at the alternator, at the black wire from the fusible link box to the hot battery terminal connector, and at the engine ground wire at the connection to the body, just behind the left headlight and plainly visible. Or you could go right to the most likely cause which are the distributor electronic components themselves. Try changing out the distributor with a working one. I keep a closet full of extra distributors because I have had a half dozen go out on my 86T.

22 to 24 degrees. You do not need to connect any green wires. You do need to disconnect any vacuum tubes to the distributor and you want the engine barely idling at around 750 rpm. Put some white typewriter whiteout on the mark that you want to hit, before you start the engine. Let it dry for a few minutes of course. All of your vacuum system should be functional and sealed. There is often some broken nipples into a couple of key components on top of the engine.

1. Make sure you don't have a mouse nest between the AC radiator and the real radiator. 2. The double core radiators really work well and will likely solve your problem the easiest. 3. For even more cooling, drill a 1/4" diameter hole in your thermostat, or two. You would probably not want to run a drilled thermostat with your brand spankin new double core radiator in the winter, because you will have difficulty in getting enough heat to warm up the inside of the car.