tallwelder81

very cool, man. i LIKE it. not as pretty as the wagon. i mean that in a good way. the wagon was cool, but for MY personal tastes, the body was too straight and shiny for the design of the suspension/chassis. but werent you curious to drive it a few months, after ALL that buildup and time in the shop? when you gettin home, bro? ditch those towel-mutts and bring your butt and all that FAT mideast income, and hang with your puget sound brothers. breakfast is on me, and we can blast the crap out of some plywood with my new break-open hiphung shotgun. its a fun gun. simple, durable, doesnt mind mud and snow, and it has lots of power. i blew an 8 inch hole in 3/4 OSB-plywood from about forty feet away. its a pistol grip shorty, but i left the barrell legal length, 18 inches. so the groupings are still fairly tight, and the range stays long, at least by shotgun standards. those 10-inch barrels can barely penetrate a pizza box from over 40 feet range. and thats NOT an exaggerration. test it for yourself. you KNOW i have. lol... we tried my cousins 12 gauge shorty, it was about 10 inch barrel, and from roughly 30 feet away, it barely even damaged a rubber garbage can. not impressed.

everyone has already gone over that subject/option, and over it and over it and over it. atv tires are designed to carry about 200-300lbs each. at most. even for a little brat, the tires need to carry closer to 700lbs, each. pooparu used quad tires on his brat, and he says it works good. but he never uses them on the freeway. those are basically for trail only.

the 185-80-13 at sams club looks decent for mild offroad. you know, gravel, dirt, leaves and grass. it looks like it would do okay on snow, also. goodyear marathon.

step up to the 14, dude. yer livin in the paaaast, maaaan..... you are lucky you can even find ONE style of 13. try finding any metric 390mm tires. lol...

shut up, gd! you dont know anything about subarus. ....just playin.... thank you for advice.

AMEN, brother!!! an oil change is NOT brain surgery. step 1, take old oil OUT. step 2, put new oil in. its a very complex process, but they decided to open and run a business that advertises an ability to handle that complex and extremely difficult process. if they cant handle it, maybe they should start a business of door-to-door shoe tying service. they owe you. if they DONT pay up, just stand around and complain a lot at the busiest time of day, in front of lots of potential paying customers. also, try to remember the time of day, and day of week, that the "oil-change" was performed. so whichever employee was too busy text-msgng his girlfriend, and smoking a joint in the back parking lot, can be held responsible for doing such a crappy job. and p.s. NEXT time, i hope you learned your lesson. for half the price, in half the time, and even when they do it CORRECTLY, you can do it twice as good yourself. dont waste your time and money with those morons.

yeah rooster, my read drivers side cv has that basic fix. no duct tape, just the thick saran-wrap, and baling wire. and it has been okay for over 6,000 miles and 14-16 months. just ugly.

thank you both very much!! p.s. fairtax. if you are single, my ex fiancee is very pretty, and very sweet, and she moved to lake monticello, Palmyra a year ago. she is great, she just lives too far away and the 4,000 mile thing wasnt cutting it. she is 25. and 5'0" and in good shape. not a toothpick and not a whale. when she walks into a bar, every guy stares. i could hook y'all up. just sayin.... she is kinda half dating some pot dealer now. anybody cool enough to like subarus must be an improvement. not that im anti-pot. its all good.

i have seen lots of of successful, functioning ej'd brats who ditched all the vacuum lines or pcv lines or whatever they are, that go into the air intake tube. my question is this: does KEEPING them benefit me in any way? does keeping SOME, but ditching any inconvenient ones serve any purpose, or is it black and white, all or nothing? i want to do my intake straight back, up over the spare tire "shelf". i wont have enough room to keep all the tubes, and i wont have enough room for both of those weird "sore thumbs" that dead end off the intake on the imprezas. i was told that those sore thumb hang-offs are to smooth the incoming air flow. to kinda break up high-and-low pulses, so its just one somewhat steady and consistent breath of air.

i know, i know..... this thread is older than moses' grandpa. but im curious, can my ej18 be STROKED? doesnt stroke tend to create low-mid rpm torque? where bore tends to create mid-high rpm horsepower??? do the ej22 con-rods swap into my ej18? and everything else <fuel lines, ecu, harness, pistons, rings, etc> could stay the same stock original ej18 parts??

ohhhhh, yeah. duh... you win. thats a good point. back to the drawing board, huh....

mehhhh.... thanks, but no thanks. that works for a big rockcrawler on 33s, or at least 29s. it would look really awkward and clumsy on my brat. just wouldnt "mesh".

i just have a 215-65-15, on a 2rear/2.5front lift. what is the easiest, most affordable, but not horor ugly. option to get some black rubber flares on my brat? not just for legal reasons, it would also look BEEFIER. and some beefy mudflaps that matched visually with the flares. none of it needs to be HUGE. like i said, im on 26.5 tires, with a 2 inch lift. i offroad, but its relatively mild offroading.

AWESOME question, man!! i always wondered that. it seems like those rain guards are specifically designed and IDEAL for people who push their cars into rough weather, storms, snowy, wet, soggy drippy conditions. WHO DOES THAT?? 80s SUBARU owners!! duhhhh..... i speak for myself in my 1983 brat. but i assume the majority of you do the same. i dont offroad as hard as many of you guys, but still, i do a lot more than pick up Lattes at starbucks, or hairspray and little debbie snacks at walmart. i have rainguards on my 2009 tacoma prerunner. they are great. 65mph, in pouring rain, and i can still open my windows a few inches, to get some fresh air. why not?? i think we need to get together and PUSH PUSH PUSH one of these companys to make a rainguard for the DL/GL series. sorry 1980 and older guys, but we gotta start somewhere, and 82-89 subarus are a very large, and loyal market.

you can ge anytime you want, you have MY permission. just tell everyone that i said it was okay. and if that doesnt work, yell "rape" and then run.

how tall are you? im 6'3" and i wear a 32w/36L and the brat fits me fine. if anything, i dont even use the rearmost notch on the seat slide. but then again, ive always kinda preferred an upright and vertical driving style. hence my preference for trucks. i feel really weird when i drive a honda or saturn or whatever. my only CAR, car, is a 67 buick. and the factory original seats dont even recline anyhow. plus, even though it was considered a long and low cruiser, caddillac style, kinda, you know those 60s cars. kinda high off the ground compared to a car of the last 20 years. and a much more... firm and awake/alert driving position. even though the front bumper is usually in a different county than your butt. kinda gambling anytime you pull thru a blind intersection. by the time YOU can see the road you are entering, with your own eyeballs, your front bumper is 5 or even 5-1/2 feet out into the oncoming traffic. guess thats why they had a ton of 0-40mph guts. cuz theres no point even bothering to look. once you can see, looking is already pointless. just get out there and stomp that floor. LOL..... and dont forget to sit back, or you will have whiplash like a sunufa.... mine didnt even come with headrests, the seat just ends at my shoulders if i slump, my nipple-height if i use good posture.

turbosubarubrat! i have the same seats as you. even the color. i bought my car from craigslist. everett, wa. 1983 brat. the seller, jeff, had done a few things, seats, domelight, weber, and stereo. it was 2 andahalf years ago, but i BELIEVE he said the seats were from a mid-90s mazda. not sure what model.

hey i have a diamond plate aluminum dashboard for a 2nd gen brat. a buddy gave it to me for working on his car. if anyone is interested, in can carry it with when i go to the meet. i dont have enough stuff or want to deal with laying out a blanket and all that. but i can bring that part with.

you smartashes. young mouthy punks.... GET OFF MY LAWN!!

who wants a dumb 2-1/8"? i want a 2-3/32" lol...... sorry. my attempt at feeling involved in the converse.

maybe its not quantity, maybe its quality. exhaust and nuts/bolts are generally a much higher quality steel than 80s fenders. especially NEW cars, like late 90s up til 2012. the steel is CRAP! if 50s and 60s cars were made the same thickness as a modern car, they would still be far better quality, simply because the actual metal was better metal. speaking of welding, did you know a LOT of the welding rod is old hondas and toyotas? true fact. they make 6010 and 6012 rod out of old 80s cars that got crushed.

wow, im dumb. i didnt get to page 2 of the thread. i just replied. lol... anyhow, what i said was true. and i use the same .032 wire for everything. it worked okay on my battery tray, which i would guess is like 20gauge sheet. and it worked good on the walls of a shipping container also, which is, i know for sure, 14g sheet. ive used it on 1/8" angle iron and box tubing also. none of the welds have broken yet on the 20g, 14g or 1/8". and the 14g and 1/8" weld beads look very pretty, as clean and steady as anything the college teacher showed me on mig or fluxcore/innershield. if you REALLY want to weld a lot of thin stuff, and strong and clean, and do it all in shorts and a t-shirt, go spend a months paycheck on a nice Tig welder. the invertecs are very nice. i dont own one, but ive used em a LOT. no complaints yet. and for the power they put out, they are very portable. p.s. am i the only one who thinks USMB should have a seperate section JUST for specifically metal fabrication? i notice there are a ton of threads on here, just about working with metal. and metal related tools and equipment.

youre not using gas, and it doesnt even HAVE gas option? let me guess, Harbor Freight? yuck... if there is a way you can just weld flux-core, use that instead. the wire costs a lot more, like 70 bucks for .032 10lb spool. but it has the shielding gas contained within the wire itself. also, dont try to weld from point A to point D. gotta space it out. just go like a quarter inch, skip an inch, weld a quarter inch, skip an inch. have a glass of water, smoke a cigarette, pick your nose, or whatever, for like 2 or 3 minutes, then start back up. quarter inch weld, skip an inch, etc.... like this: --- --- --- --- even with a 1,200 dollar lincoln electric pro model, skipping around is just part of working with that thin material. think of it like the lug nuts on a big truck. you cant just tighten lugs on a 10-lug wheel clockwise. itr will jam and bind up and go on crooked. you gotta do like bolt 1, bolt 6, bolt 3, bolt 8, so on and so forth. if all else fails, solder then project. i understand that we cant all go out and buy top-end tools for our home projects. but for the hundredth time, harbor freight garbage isnt even worth the price. if you want a cheap hobby welder, get at least an Eastwood. they are much cheaper than pro-stuff, but still work pretty good. cheap tools cost more than good tools. how about your time and gas? and the headache of dropping what you are doing, and running down to the cheapo china-mart toolstore to RE-buy the same tool, again and again? dont think IM rich. i live in a 32 year old mobile home with a leaking roof. my garage is 2 shipping containers with pond-liner roofing and lumber from an abandoned trailer park that the county took over. i have literally not had any cable TV in over 2 years. my tv is nice, but its a 27inch from 2004 that i scored at a after-thanksgiving sale. and the newest video game system ive ever owned is an xbox. like, the FIRST xbox. i play call of duty 1, when i need a gamer fix. but all that being said, i still either shell out big bucks for GOOD brand tools, or i live without them. if the cheap version is honestly good enough for you, chances are, you dont even need the tool anyhow. theres my rant.

ivan, how friggin TALL is your 12 year old kid?? lol.... i am 31 years old, and have been 6'3"-ish since 9th grade. and i fit with my head under the line of the cab roof. but i have about 3/4" inch to spare.

the thing about the factory roll bars for brats is, they dont actually tie INTO anything very solid. 18gauge sheet metal is NOT solid. in which case, the bar might CAUSE more safety problems for rear passengers, in a rollover, than they prevent.