Suba9792

if you have the chance bring it in, the vibration when you held the brake down in gear and revved it is probably from the tranny trying to take off, which as I stated you don't want to do, but the vibration between 35-40 is probably something you want to have looked at, odds are its just a tire out of balance. I doubt its a joint since its an 08' with I'm assuming under 80k miles. go have it looked at and save yourself some cost if you wait too long.

I run 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter, living in the NW you just cant predict what mother nature is going to throw at ya.

odds are its a joint either up front or in the rear, does it do it when your in neutral and revving it? I would guess its a joint and or front CV since it is only doing it at certain MPH ranges.

yeah you dont want to rev an auto while holding the brake, this was a thing most of us probably used to do in our old trucks and rods back in the day known as power braking, very bad to do in a subaru. I would definitely bring it to the dealer, something inst right with the car.

first off, don't put it in gear and rev it with the brake on when you have an auto:mad: that is just plain dumb. If its vibrating under load its probably a drive shaft joint,tranny mount,engine mount, all of which don't tend to fail in less than 2 years. Could be a tire out of balance. You should still be under warranty. But if you keep putting it in gear and revving it, they are not going to honor a warranty, these are auto trannys, and not equipped with a launch control so stop trying to launch it! your tranny will not be cheap.

answer, yes! I dont think they changed much.

I believe with the franken motor your going to put out around 170-180HP, but with a ton of torque. Correct me if im wrong on the power rating.:-\

Afterbang, you must be talking about GD's neighbors they built! that thing is crazy, they need to rename his street Subaru way:lol: GD you need to get that clutch replaced in the SS, I'm dying seeing it sit. The franken motor is pretty cool as a matter of fact GD just did an engine swap for a friend of mine, since for some reason the previous dip ************ who owned it fried the EJ22 in it:eek: so they found a replacement at Foster Auto Parts and did the swap, GD bought the old motor, reason...The heads, he needs to use the heads for the EJ25 block that he has and viola! Franken motor. That is what I will "would like" to build for the wife's Legacy Sedan I'm going to find this coming year, since there are not many SUS around, as grossgary said I can build one for her!

Did you look at it as well when he told you its the manifold?? exhaust or intake? exhaust would point to oil pump or cam seal to me. Best have it checked by someone who really knows subies.

only get OE cam seals from the dealer, you might as well do a t-belt job while its all open.

on an engine with many miles its probably a good thing to give it a minute or two.

re fill it with ATF and a bottle of trans-x to top it off.

I would have someone more "qualified" to confirm the case leakage, could be a leaky oil pump or cam seal, hell even an oil pan leak, but there is a distinct smell between motor oil and axle grease, climb under and take a pic and post it.

if you have the funding by all means try it:lol:, but to be honest, your probably looking at over 6k, and that's probably a start, franken motor, 2.5 block, 2.2 heads, should be good for about 170-180hp I think:rolleyes:,, there is a guy here in Oregon that has built one. STi swap, waste of money on an outdated model.

I let mine warm up for about 5 min, but I also have cold start piston slap, summer eh a minute or two. It does help on the cold days to circulate the oil and warm it up some, I prefer to warm it. Yeah you waste gas but its cheaper to fill up then to go out and find a new motor because you ran the piss out of it while cold.

I agree with olnick, if you are in Vancouver WA take a trip to west linn and have GD get his hands dirty, but you may want to make an appointment, trust me he has a lot of subies in line as we speak. Case leaking? that's a new one for me I have never heard of that, was the engine rebuilt at any point?

So we are getting another ride come spring for my wife, she is very persistent about wanting a 02 OB SUS:rolleyes:, I keep trying to tell her that most of them that I have seen are on the east coast, is this true and if so why? I just never see them out this way only very seldom. I "want " her to go with a 90's lego sedan, clean it up, have GD help me build a franken motor:grin: and maybe a JDM tranny.

That many miles and for 11k! ouch thats alot of cash for that ride, Id look at something a bit less. The H6 is a great motor, but that is a lot of miles.

mine started after a strut change.

I have a similar sound as well, but mine mainly does it when I decelerate, praying its not the diff:eek: or input shaft bearing

Talk to GD, he is a well known board member, he has a real nice 96 GT that you may be interested in, the EJ25 in it was toast so he swapped in a nice fairly low mileage 2.2 in it which is of course a much better option, however its an AT not a 5spd, but to be honest I'd rather have the AT , my tranny is a 5spd and if I'm correct one of the bearings is going south for the winter:lol: The AT also from what I've heard is much better in the snow, he is asking about $3,600 for it, everything has been meticulously gone through, wheel bearings,tranny flushes, body work, spit shine clean, new timing belt and components ETC, basically you can rely on it for a llloooonnnggg time.

I saw that once on their site, I think it had something to do with the coil pack burning out.

So after replacing the backup light bulbs I still have nothing, not even a flicker, I picked up a new back up light switch, but to be honest I have no idea where it goes, its a 5MT 97 lego EJ22. I just figured that was the culprit, is it in the console by all the shift linkage or under the car, and how hard is it to replace.

So I'm getting ready to do some work on my 97 Lego 2.2 Brighton. I have new outer boots and ball joints, and I'm picking up the new KYB GR-2s today. The passenger front CV boot is torn and there is grease everywhere, how do I reboot it without pulling the whole thing off, or is that even possible? oh yeah its the outer boot by the way. And any info on doing the struts? it has hardly any rust so that should speed things up a bit. I have a spring compressor but is there anything else I should be aware of when I tackle it? the top hats are fine no cracks or anything wrong with them, is it a basic, pull the old ones and swap with the new deal? I was going to bring it to GD this Friday but we have to go out of town then now instead of Saturday.

at 210k I'd just leave it be. You not going to get much out of it, the cams would probably help you out a bit, but that's about it.