Suba9792

winter tire air! that made my day.

I bet that motor is already blown up:lol:

don't remove the MAF, again pointless, if your looking for power, and I'm assuming you have a 2.2 then buy yourself some torque cams and call it good, otherwise your wasting your time and money on a car with assuming over 140k on it. Welcome to the board:)

Look at the OE air box... you do not need to buy a cold air intake for it! its just pointless, buy a WIX air filter and call it good, K&N will not give you added power in your car. The original air box is pretty big, so just change your air filter. I used a K&N in my 97 2.2 and it really didn't do any good, and I think my mileage may have dropped, 2 years running WIX filters and no problems.

Consult GD on this, he just helped his neighbor build one a while back for a brat.

My sister in-law has a 2010 outback, if she didnt put on the Toyo Observes it would slide everywhere, it has the CVT tranny so that may be the contributing factor. The Foresters on the other hand handle like a dream in the snow.

Check your plugs, make sure they are tight.

some of us are new to subies.:-\

An 06' that threw a rod!! was it starved of oil or something, that just doesnt seem right, I've heard of the earlier 2.5s throwing rods but not the newer ones.

I'm having a similar issue as well, not 100% sure as to the cause but I'd lean towards a clutch job, I can hear my TOB spin real fast now when I change gears, and I get a clicking sounds up until the road noise deadens the sound. Let me guess your hearing the sound from somewhere near the dash in the center?, I'd also check your ball joints, if they have never been replaced I'd do it, about $12 at RockAuto.com. But my car does it in a straight line and on turns either direction.

I'm having a similar issue as well, not 100% sure as to the cause but I'd lean towards a clutch job, I can hear my TOB spin real fast now when I change gears, and I get a clicking sounds up until the road noise deadens the sound. Let me guess your hearing the sound from somewhere near the dash in the center?

more towards the front of the console, dash area.

My buddy has a 98 lego 2.2, he is having similar trouble with his car as I am, can the knock sensor go bad without throwing a code, or start failing without the code?

this is also a long shot, but could it be an electrical arc somewhere? I was going to try the water on the coil trick, but then I thought..... hummm water,electricity, probably not a good idea. The dash lights shut off on my wife about a week ago, and then came back on after a restart.

whats funny is I hear it from the center console the most, which to me would indicate tranny trouble or bad clutch components, but who know, I'll bring it to GD and see what he thinks.

Hopefully there isn't any damage from the valve train, I really cant afford to have the heads rebuilt.

Yeah, I thought the dealer was wrong with the valve adjustment bit. I called them and gave them the vin since we got the car from my wife's grandparents and the had all the scheduled maintenance done at the dealer, they said they didnt see a record of a valve adjustment. I'm gonna try to get it to GD as soon as I can, since it is in harmony with engine RPM I'm thinking valves.

its not the tires, its the rear wheel bearings getting ready to explode! it just happened to my friends forester, they are notorious for bearing failure. Get it done ASAP.

oh yea the car only has 142k on the OD. And its a 97 2.2

So, I was going to take it today to GD to look at but some other crap came up(work). . here are all the symptoms of the problem from start up to restart- Start the car I do a complete warm up, little piston slap for about 30sec then it goes away. No tapping sound backing up, now once I take off I hear the tapping, it seems in sync with engine RPM and MPH. While driving, if I let off the pedal a little it goes away, but when I give it a little gas it comes back in every gear. It feels a little jumpy taking off in first, second gear is a bit rough getting into gear. Going down the road it feels jerky almost like something isn't grabbing right.(most likely my shot struts, feeling every bump) After about 20-30min Ill shut it down and wait for about 15min or so then restart it..nothing sound completly goes away(most of the time). Here are my amateur theory's- Valves are WAY out of adjustment, possibly hung open. I called the dealer and they said you would hear a valve no matter if you at idle,accelerating,decelerating etc. so that may be ruled out?? Cracked flywheel, and or bad clutch componets, I had the clutch done at TransMedic in Gresham OR, about 2 years ago, they only charged me $475.00 parts and labor with 1 year warranty, sounds pretty low to me now that I am learning more about them. I think its possible they used a real piss poor clutch kit, and forgot to put the pin things on right for the TOB. I do however have blown struts(have them on order) and I am rebooting the pass side CV, it tore and shot grease in the wheel well. I'm also replacing the ball joint as well, but a CV should not be in harmony with the engine RPM right?? Things that have been done recently- New T-belt,tensioner idlers,WP reseal the oil pump,new thermostat all by GD. New coil pack,plug wires,NGK plugs properly gaped. New fuel filter,air filter,PCV valve(probably wasn't bad). Oil changed 500 miles ago Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30. Any ideas?? valves, crappy clutch, or is my tranny just doomed. I read online that "sometimes" bad suspension components can cause alot of strange clicking and tapping. If it was a rod, or engine bearing I think it would be fairly obvious even in neutral at idle, and GD even listened to the car and didn't hear any knocking- minus the short term piston slap. I'm blaming cutch componets:lol:

the foot on the clutch thing does seem to make a diff, if it were a rod I'd probably hear it no matter what gear at idle etc, but valves could be a culprit, the clutch is of an unknown brand, I was an amateur before I got on here so I may have had a shady job done. PS still learning:lol:

we shall see what it is tuesday since I'm bringing it to GD for a look over.

I'm wondering if may be a valve clatter, but wouldnt that make noise even sitting still in neutral at idle or revving it? I have been noticing 2nd gear is getting a little tight getting into gear sometimes.

The belt,tensioners,WP,oil pump seal,idlers etc was all done less than a month ago, and I'm 100% sure its not that, reason being is GD did it for me, so its ruled out IMO.

if it was piston slap shouldnt it go away, I dont think others are getting the idea, it DOESNT GO AWAY unless I shut the car off and wait 15-20 min then restart,