Suba9792

I'm wondering if may be a valve clatter, but wouldnt that make noise even sitting still in neutral at idle or revving it? I have been noticing 2nd gear is getting a little tight getting into gear sometimes.

The belt,tensioners,WP,oil pump seal,idlers etc was all done less than a month ago, and I'm 100% sure its not that, reason being is GD did it for me, so its ruled out IMO.

if it was piston slap shouldnt it go away, I dont think others are getting the idea, it DOESNT GO AWAY unless I shut the car off and wait 15-20 min then restart,

no dont think its CV related since its only at a certain RPM around 2k and above, but it doesnt do it when I decelerate. The funny thing is when I drive it for about 20 min then shut it down for 15-30 the sound isnt there, kind odd I guess.

Its not an issue I can pin point with a stethoscope, since it only does it in gear while moving around 2k and above.

I do know that the EJ22 dont tend to have much piston slap. At least thats what I have read its mainly the 2.5

this is a long shot, but... could it be the knock sensor? the reason why I ask this is because about 6 months ago I was driving along when it threw a code and ran like crap! bad plug wire, so then it did it again( I used Napa wires:banghead:) could it have damaged the sensor some how? causing ignition problems ans spark knock?

I'd look at the plug wires and coil, if thats not it maybe you have a bad fuel pump

So here is a clip of my mystery rattle in my 97 Lego 2.2, it only does the rattle at about 2k, but after driving for awhile and I shut it off for about 15-20min it goes away, any ideas! please help me!!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHDHxvkoMrQ

build a franken motor! 2.5 block and 2.2 heads. Should be good for about 180+

So there is a spring on the clutch fork on my car that is bent, its on the outside where the clutch cable attaches and the spring goes from there to the manifold to a little hole. Its a J-hook type spring, anyone know what this is called or a part #,

I have actually read that the Subaru diesel boxer engine is frankly junk, its a maintenance nightmare and it doesn't produce much HP or torque, and is loud as hell. Check you tube see for yourself, I personally think a diesel boxer is a bad idea, and if they are bringing them to the US are they using all aluminum? I just see lots of problems.

only thing I know of on those foresters is the rear wheel bearings frequently fail, no idea why but I've seen and heard of many between 99-06 failing.

check your PS pump, the newer versions are prone to leaking, and it can make its way down the side of the heads and block and onto the manifold. The whistle sounds like the "mystery turbo" whistle for the pump at high RPMs. Replace it with and older model 92-94 I think, I just did mine about a week ago, no more whistle. But I'd do the t-belt and seal job too! get OEM seals from the dealer. Be sure to replace the WP. Import experts is a great place to get those parts, but their gaskets and seals suck IMO. RESEAL THE OIL PUMP!!

clear the codes, see if they come back, could be a bad job with the injectors.

Hooray!!! I had no doubt about your timing belt job, thankfully it wasn't a bad coil pack, those things are a fortune.

Ok...so I went to Napa and they don't have the NGKs in stock, so they ordered a set for me, I didn't want to drive it too far and burn up the cat, Napa is 2 miles from my house, Dealer=12 miles. Well anyway I went to my buddy's house and he hooked up the scanner to it, sure enough just as I thought, P302, cylinder 2 miss fire:eek: So I went to Napa, I can not go a day without our car so thankfully they have a lifetime warranty and swapped out the bad for some good ones:banana: no sputter, no lunging. The NGKs are on their way, I'll swap them out and just put the Napa POS plug wires in the shed for emergency. Now on to the struts,axles boots,ball joints, and clutch work.....ugh

I think that may be like the issue I;m having as well, but the Idle Air Control Valve is so damn expensive.

hum...sounds similar to what I'm dealing with, those knock sensors are freakin spendy!!! I just posted a thread similar, let us know what you figure out.

I'm praying that the belt didnt jump a tooth, that would suck, but I doubt it since GD was on scene helping:banana:

So I was at work today and my wife to our boy out trick or treating, well she was about 1 mile from our house(thank god) when the CEL(frantically flashing, then a steady light) came on just as the car was lunging and bogging down, she called me from the side of the road and I told her to gently nurse it back home. My first inclination! the cheap plug wires I got from Napa about two months ago(maybe three), so when I got home I popped the hood to take a look at what may have been going on, I checked all four plug wires...well all of them where still in the cylinder ports, I pulled each one,one at a time to see if any were loose, well as all of you know you will hear a small click when you push it back on the plug, when I got to the drivers side and went to pull the one closest to the front of the car, I barely had to even pull it and it came out:eek:, I tried seeing if it would go back on right but nope:-\ no click like it was secure to the plug, so I'm going to go to Napa first thing in the morning,Hopefully they have a set of NGKs in stock, I have a feeling these plug wires may be causing more problems that I'm not aware of yet. Whats funny is when GD was helping me with the timing belt, he told me those wires are crap...lesson learned:lol:, hope fully new wires will correct the problem, whats funny is I (and GD) touched the coil pack and the damn thing zapped us! got a feeling its those wires.:-\

this is funny:lol:

I'll just take it to GD once I have some more cash, I'd rather he help me so I dont ef anything up:lol: plus Discount Import parts is right around the corner. Great deal on the clutch under $200:banana:

Replace one QT of oil with 1 QT of MMO, replace the filter as well, drive the car for 100-500miles, I'd use 10w30 or 40?, since MMO is so thin, you don't want to have too thin of oil for proper lube. After you run it for X amount of miles, drain it, check all your seals, new oil filter(WIX) and drop in some 5w30, I've seen this work many of times, even worked for me once, but if it doesn't either wait till she goes, or just pull the motor and replace the lifters(never done that myself so I'd have no idea)

I agree with GD, had that same prob on my old 75 Chevy PU a few years ago, one more thing to check and it sounds crazy but, check the spark plugs to be sure they are not loose in any way. I'd also check ALL the fuel lines. If the spark plugs are loose at all you will get a lot of blow-by, which will cause you to smell what should be in the combustion chamber, I have had it happen. But my money is on the tank filler and or fuel lines.