bbenton8

The verdict is in- both front wheel bearings are the problem, my mechanic found the same thing I did, the same amount of play while moving the tire back and forth(about an inch back and forth). I also need the driver side drive axle and its boot replaced. I have them on order. Any pointers on the job I need to do? The bearings fortunately are bolt on, not press in. I have the Haynes guide which has done me well on other things I've had to do. Thanks

Well there seem to be a variety of opinions and I appreciate all the input! Tomorrow afternoon I'm getting a mechanics opinion of the symptoms. I shouldn't have taken so long to get a professional opinion but as the symptoms have stayed the same for weeks I got kinda complacent. Will let ya know what the verdict is.

The sound and vibration is hard to pinpoint. But to the point of possible wheel bearings, I just checked all 4 wheels. The rear wheels are solid, no play in them at all. BUT the front wheels both have play in them, pretty much the same amount of play in each wheel. I appreciate both of you for your advice. I guess the vibration from a bad wheel bearing could cause the entire car to vave vibration and noise. Looking forward to your further advice. The sound & vibration does get higher/lower based on the speed. noise and vibration? yes how long? been a number of months has it been getting worse? Not that I can tell

I am getting vibration while driving. My Haynes guide states that having vibration and noise that changes pitch consistent with speed is indicative of a bad rear drive-shaft. The Haynes guide seems to indicate that the center bearing on the drive-shaft can be replaced, but other sources dispute that.The car has only about 95k on it. Another Subaru Outback forum says to get a used drive-shaft rather than buying a new one (minimum I've seen for new is about $338). So looking for some advice if I can replace the center bearing or not, or if a used drive-shaft assembly would be OK. My understanding is this issue is rare. What range of Outback years does a 2008 drive shaft fit? Any other advice on this issue would be welcome. Thanks

I will be replacing the intermediate pipe & muffler. I know there is a gasket between the pipe & muffler, but is there one between the pipe & cat converter? (cat converter was replaced a few years ago & I don't remember) The existing rubber cushions look ok, but is it recommended to replace them anyway? Also the haynes book shows a pair of spring-bolts connecting the midpipe to the converter, replacing recommended? (car parts wholesale shows Walker Spring And Bolt Kit PART#:WK35129 MFR#:35129) and what size are the 2 bolts with locking nuts for the midpipe to the muffler? I've had the car about 3 years and at some point in the past the pipe & muffler were replaced with a one-piece unit- existing is not a separate pipe & muffler so- gasket pipe to cat; rubber cushions; spring-bolts; 2 bolts/nuts pipe to muffler... many thanks:)

please see the post I made before yours today. My current question is about the wheel speed sensor. Knuckle is now off.

I finally got the knuckle off last night & took it to my mechanic today to replace the bearing. Regarding the wheel speed sensor- is the "rod" that extends through the backing plate actually a part of the sensor or is it separate, with only a contact connection to the part that bolts to the outside of the backing plate? It was easy removing the bolt but it was a bear getting that part separated from the plate and I thought I snapped the rod off. However, both surfaces are perfectly smooth leading me to think I didn't snap anything. Can anyone help me out on this?

the axle nut actually loosened up just fine. I bought a 24" breaker bar & 32mm axle nut socket at Advance Auto. Now here's a couple questions- how to remove the parking brake cable from the backer plate? the "shroud" seems to somehow be bonded with the backer plate. And, suggestions for getting the brake line connection out of the cylinder? I tried a regular 10mm wrench, but just started to round the connector, so bought flare nut wrenches today & it's still not budging. I also tried the connection at the other end of the short line, but that's good & tight too. Can heat be used on brake line components? I don't think brake fluid is flammable but not 100% sure, & I don't want to damage anything I don't have to. I've got the shoes, adjuster etc all out, just need to get the cylinder & park brake line out. Then the real fun begins with the linkages bolts!

are the axle nuts all standard right-hand threads? Specifically the right rear. Thanks

Oh terrific... maybe paying my mechanic isn't sounding so bad after all... but I figure I'll give it a go & see how far I get. Still hoping someone can clue me in on where to get Yield penetrant

So I assume the lateral link bolt is the "long bolt" my mechanic said would be problematic. We shall see. Re the Yield product, where can it be purchased? I did a search and came up with the manufacturer, Chemsearch, but nothing about where to get it. I'm in upstate NY & have the usual nationwide auto stores around...

Thanks, yes my mechanic had to heat the left one last year, I do have a full oxy/acet torch setup. Will get a 32mm socket, probably a breaker bar too (my old torque wrench may not do it). will try repeated apps of pb blaster, I know that will take time. so I'll start this weekend & see how far I get. also could use advice on where to get the bearing. I used carpartswholesale.com before when I did my head gaskets earlier this year, they're ok, but other options would be appreciated.

A year ago I had the left rear bearing replaced, and the 5 or 6 bolts that had to be removed to get the knuckle off were so seized the mechanic had to cut some parts to get them off, which really drove up the cost. Now I need the right bearing replaced and this time I want to take it all apart & take the knuckle with the bearing to my mechanic to R/R the bearing, then put it back together. Any tips on getting the various bolts/arms off without having to destroy some of them? My initial thought is PB Blaster and a lot of patience working the bolts/nuts off, but I'd like to go into this with suggestions on the "easiest" way to do it. That's kind of a joke as I know it won't be "easy". Any tips on cleaning up the bolt threads etc? Also the Haynes guide calls for loosening the wheel (brake drum?) nut while wheel is on the ground, what size nut is that? Want to get the right socket if I don't already have it, before hand. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

PHEW! DONE! did the diff 1st, using my 1/2" ratchet worked great, with a bit of help from banging a rubber mallet on the handle to loosen both plugs. Fortunately I had a qt gear oil bottle with a pump that made it easy to fill the rear diff (it was way low on oil so glad I did it) WOW the transaxle dip stick is a PAIN to get to, did remove the air filter housing which really isn't too bad having done the head gaskets earlier in the year and almost everything was taken apart; thanks for the photo edrach, that helped a lot. But the drain plug came out fine (though the bolt seemed like maybe a 21mm, as my 22mm was slightly loose on it) and I did manage to get the dipstick out, and had to use a lawn equipment funnel (narrow long neck) and a regular funnel into that to refill without spilling oil everywhere. The handle was black, but turned yellow after I got all the grease off of it . Refilled and it's all good. Thanks to everyone for the help & tips! Happy Labor Day! Time to veg & watch TV

wow ok no wonder I can't see it. thanks for the photo, def looks like removing the air filter housing is a must, no big deal. No Pull a parts here in upstate (western/central) NY, closest is in Ohio from their web site; have Auto Zone & Advance Auto plus the other standard nation wide outlets & local. At least I don't feel like I'm losing my mind anymore trying to find that dipstick!

Thanks to both of you for the tips! Nothing I need to buy as I have a 1/2" socket wrench as well as a torque wrench, and a 22mm socket from doing the head gaskets. I will definitely remove the diff fill plug 1st! and remove the air filter housing so I can look for the trans dip tube. hopefully the dipstick is still there, I'm guessing if it isn't I should get a new one as it seems that would be an inlet for contaminants...

what ratchet driver is used to remove/replace the fill & drain plugs for the rear differential? and is there anything other than a metric socket for the manual transaxle drain? also, I can't seem to see the transaxle dip stick/fill tube, which is supposed to be on the right side of the engine compartment; I don't even recall seeing it when I tore the engine apart last winter to replace the head gaskets... but then, I was more concerned about getting the engine back together... I assume to get to the fill tube the air cleaner needs to be removed, but I'm mystified why I don't see it just behind the engine on the passenger side???

Wow $68 + shipping, that's my kinda pricing! Thanks!

Yesterday morning the pipe between the cat converter (which is relatively new) and the muffler broke in half about a foot in front of the muffler. I managed to use some wire to hold up the muffler & stub so it doesn't catch on the ground and tear off/do damage. Obviously I have to replace the pipe. I'd rather not replace the muffler right now as it was fairly quiet before the pipe broke, surprisingly, given the corrosion it obviously had (don't know if the pipe is original or was replaced). Can anyone suggest a good source for getting a new pipe? I'm looking on car Parts Wholesale that I've purchased through before but don't see that particular pipe. As low a cost as possible is very important. Thanks. maybe there is a way to connect the pipe back together? the 2 pics are on my facebook album.

I believe it's on the 2nd page of this thread- left rear bearing spindle worked loose. The mechanic who replaced the bearing last fall fixed it, no charge. Running smooth now.

@ nipper- Ha Ha! @ edrach- sharing knowledge is always good! But I'm not considering any solution "in the bag" until I get confirmation from my mechanic that the new bearing failed. Once some things settle down I plan to write up a summary of my experience doing my own head gaskets, it really wasn't all that difficult and I learned a lot. Among other things, I'm a certified K-12 technology teacher so I believe in passing on the knowledge!

this turns out to be a "none of the above" answer. I jacked it up & got underneath it a little bit ago, pushed & pulled on the driveshaft & all 4 axles, & didn't notice anything obviously loose. Then I pushed on the wheels while raised, & the fronts and right rear were solid, but the left rear shook back & forth a great deal. My mechanic (who is good) replaced the bearing on it late last year, the wheel shook the same back then before the bearing was replaced (but there was just a clunking sound back then, no vibration). Seems the replacement bearing must have been defective, I haven't put too many miles on it since, just commute since January when I got my new job. So I called him and dropped it off just now, we'll see what he has to say. He's a good guy so I'm keeping my fingers crossed this won't cost me. We shall see!

thanks edrach, not sure about the left front boot, that was awhile ago, don't remember if it was inner or outer joint. If it is a front axle problem, would that not cause vibration/shaking in the steering wheel? or not? I agree about not throwing $ at it, I can't afford that. Next step is to jack it up tonight & get under it.

great pointers everyone. here's a better description of what's going on. There is no vibration or clunking at all going from a dead stop to acceleration. It's completely smooth, and there is no change letting off the accelerator that I've noticed but I'll pay more attention to that today. It's also smooth at speeds up to 50 to 55, when some slight vibration sets in- usually but not always. If vibration does start, then ~65mph is the most intense, and there can be brief periods where it get's more intense then abates. I'll also pay more attention to whether that higher intensity abates just when reducing speed, and/or when turning the steering wheel. When I slow down to 50 or below the vibration stops. Last evening I followed the Haynes suggestion of getting up to the speed where vibration is worst (65 for this), noting the RPM, then shifting gears and noting if the vibration stayed the same at the same MPH or RPM, and it was at the same MPH that the vibration was noticeable. According to Haynes, "if the vibration decreases or is eliminated...in a different gear at the same engine speed" (another way of saying different MPH) check the following- bent/dented driveshaft; built-up dirt etc on driveshaft; worn u-joint bearings. I just started noticing the vibration last Monday or Tuesday, it was extremely smooth till then.. DOJ = double offset joint? If it is the drive shaft, I found one online source- http://www.wholesaleimportparts.com, $372.50 w/ $60 core and they pay shipping including the core. Anyone have experience with this outfit, or suggest another? I just re-read edrach's post and that did jog my memory- I bought the car in Sept or Oct of 2008, and the left front boot was torn, had to have it replaced to pass NYS inspection that December. I've put a good 20k miles on it since. So would the symptoms I describe possibly point to a DOJ/axle?

I referred to my Haynes guide, which served me well for replacing the head gaskets. The vibration is based on the same vehicle speed, not the same engine speed, so looks like I might need a new driveshaft assembly. But first I'll get under it and see if I can find play in the U joints & center bearing. Doesn't look like a very hard job, probably the worst part will be removing the 4 flange bolts & 2 bearing bolts that might be pretty tight...