MaddCelt

This is on my 81 Brat. No idea what it is, my manual doesn't identify it and it was disconnected when I bought the Brat. Anyone know what it is and it's importance?

This has been an interesting day. Thought I fixed the problem, only to get proven wrong. To get home I plugged all the lines to the canister and now she runs great. Tinkering with the throttle adjuster got the idle back down to around 1.5K

Well, that train got derailed. Checked the return line and it is clear all the way.

Ok, got the same problem it seems as the last time, so I want to recap what I have done up to the point of the problem. Started out with a leaking fuel tank. Since it could not be dropped to check for the leak, I installed a simple fuel tank off an older Toyota, got the lines hooked up. It drove fine for the first day, then the evap canaster leaked, so I removed that. Weeks later I get another canister from a junk yard and get it installed today. Took it our for a quick spin around the block, engine runs ok for a min, then starts choking and dies when I get it home. Lift the hood and there is fuel sprayed inside. Engine idles at 2 to 3K rpms Double check lines and all is ok. Tried the old canister and the same effect happens when I drive it. Cannot find any vacuum leaks, adjust the gas pedal cable to get the rpm's down to 1.5K. Take it for a spin, same effect but I hear a hissing sound as I pull back in the drive. Check it out and the new canister is leaking. I pull the fuel tank return hose and try not to lose too much gas as I plug it. If this is to run back to the tank, why is it pouring back out at the canister? Plugged? If so I can see it backing up into the canister and overflowing and causing a spray. Am I right in this train of thought? Also, what is this and what does it connect to?

Well, it seems that either I have another bad evap canister or the possibility that the return line could be plugged.

Ok, got a new evap canister, got it installed. Engine idles at 3K. reving doesn't drop it. Aside from that all seems to be working. Took it for a 1/4 mile trip and it lost power and barely made it home. Lift the hood and there had been fuel spraying inside the engine comp from an unknown source but it did hit the hood. EGR valve was leaking earlier when my issues started, could it be the culprit?

Ok, I finally got past the fiasco of getting the right starter. Turned out that the model of engine I have was a rare one for the model of Brat. So it is on and working. This leaves the Evap canister. They sent me one, larger than the old one and the ports are a bit different but the number is the same. The old one connects on the passenger fender and the hoses connect to a series of hard lines that mount across the top of the engine to the carb. My problem is that I cannot remember what went where. (Took them off in a hurry to stop the gas leak, then had to wait over a month for my starter) Does anyone have knowledge on how to reconnect this and can provide pics?

Over the Easter Weekend my Brat decided to take out all it's issues out on me all at once. Evap Canister, Starter, possibly the EGR valve. Sent off for a starter from a junk yard and received the wrong type. The guy thought I wasn't correct in saying I had an 81. Did a Vin check and it came up as I stated but he said the starter he sent me (direct drive) was the one for the engine. I sent him the numbers off the old starter and now it's the waiting game. In the meantime I would like to find out if there is a way to determine if the engine is or is not the original. Anyone know how to go about that, if it's possible?

On top of all the other work I have to suddenly do on my 81 Brat, the EGR valve decided to malfunction. I've learned how to by pass it but I need to know what the open and closed positions are for it. I cannot get it off atm due to a stripped bolt (damned tight spot for them) and if I stick my finger into the slot I can push the valve in and out. If it is shut, is it against the slots? Also, if the vacuum is gone due to lines being removed, will that effect the valve when the car is off? Thanks

Pulled the starter and will be pulling the EGR Valve. Talk about a tight space for that EGR's bolts.

Got the starter pulled. But before that, the EGR valve decided to join the party. I'm going to be an expert before you know it.

That could work. The shop manual I have has a walk through for that.

Wife suggested hitting the starter with a hammer and so I did, didn't start that time but turned a hel of alot better. So add a starter to the list of repairs.

Well, ain't this a b**ch. Go out to start work yet again and try to start it, a loud thunk occurs, the engine moves a slight bit, then nothing.

Will the vapor line drain fuel when it's unplugged?

Here is the canister The lines are as follows, lt to rt vc, purge, f.tank, cb

I hooked the smaller line (#4) to the matching sized line. She started with no gas leaks. The 3rd line with the large section intakes air. Unplugged it makes the engine run rough. Plugged it runs better. I plugged it for a bit and it idled like before but it would choke when reved and quite often would drop rpm til it almost stopped unless I gave it gas. The second line does nothing plugged or unplugged, so I kept it unplugged.

Ok, that makes more sense. Only prob was I removed the canister already. I know, bad form. I can take pics and post them and see if we can figure it out, you game?

Now that made me feel very uneducated, lol. I'll pull out my repair manual and look over the parts so I can figure out what you said.

Ok, but I'll need help getting all the lines where they need to go. A walk through would be great!

Well, despite all the work I just put into my brat, I may have to sideline her. The vapor canister just crapped out on me and I do not think I'll find another any time soon, if ever.

And as I was typing that, my daughter (3) brought yucky to my attention. I had noticed a gas smell and thought it was my old tank. turned out to be the evap canaster deciding to crap out. Add that to the what I did list.

I found I had a leak in the tank where I could not get to and I couldn't drop the tank without shearing the bolts. As this is my work car, it can't be down for long. In these parts it's not uncommon to see a truck rednecked and it gaveme the idea for my recent project for it. This is before I cleaned the back out and remounted my tool box.

LOL. Well, just to give you an idea how redneck it is around here......I took this pic a mile down the road from here.

LOL. Out here in my neck of the woods it's a common thing to see farmers with tanks in th beds of their trucks, and there are a few pulling trucks that have the tank in the bed as well. That is what gave me the idea. If I can fix the old tank, it will take just a few mins to switch everything over.