MaddCelt

I'll hit the u pull it and grab one at some point. Just trying to narrow down the misfire codes I keep getting. Stil need to check the coil and related areas. Hopefully I can come across the tools to do it. Can't afford to take it to the mech and don't have the $ to get the tools to do a proper troubleshooting.

#11

When we put the engine back together in my 98 OBW we thought the peice that connects to the air intake had been cut off where it mounts into the fender. I found out later that it just popped on but it was tossed by my mechanic by mistake. So, with this missing, would it give the Mass Air Flow sensor a complex and contribute to a rough idle?

Changed the oil, going to do the plugs here in a few, gave it a much needed bath and detailing. Updated my bug out kit I keep in it .

Replaced the doughnut exhaust gasket and mounted the replacement ownership badges lost when I had to replace the hatch.

I had thought about that. There was a recall in the past for the alt but it expired so I could not get it replaced. So it's likely the same one from the day it hit the street.

Something I have been noticing lately on my 98 OBW is that then I brake I notice a drain on the electrical. The lights dim and the blower slows down until I let up on the brake. It happens when the clutch is pressed or when in neutral. Any ideas?

I did a search and wasn't able to pull up anything. Has anyone done, or known anyone who had gotten the idea to light up the center section on the tailgate light bar where it says Subaru?

I stripped the old OBW hatch of usable parts, replaced the broken latch mechanism on the new hatch and replaced the internal trim.

I took out two windows last week. Looked into replacement and that was going to run me $185 for the hatch window. I hit the You Pull It and found a whole hatch, same year, color and with the spoiler mine was missing for $175. So today I went out and pulled it and replaced the old hatch. Still need to finish replacing all the trim but I ran out of light.

Here is the other Brat a few days ago.

I hit Besslers You Pull It and Save in Hebron, KY for a hatch for my wagon and they have a 86 Brat that was just added to the yard. It has an EA-81 The body is in real good condition. The worst of the rust in the rear bed but fixable I believe. Interior is is great condition for the age. There is some rust on the underbody but not real bad as far as I was able to tell. Doors are sound, seats are not town, only one split in the dash. Instument panel, radio, etc is great condition. There is another Brat in the pic, in the back you can see the tailgate. It is is rough shape all around tho. The drivetrain looks rough, most of the boots are gone. Had I the money and time I'd try to save it. But I know someone on here might be interested.

100% sure, ordered it from the dealer.

I'll have to check but I hope the hg's aren't an issue since I just changed them.

2.5 Engine was rebuilt about a month or so ago. Bought a factory t-stat and it was faulty. Forced to run without one for a few weeks and had no heat issues. Got a new t-stat installed and it maintains temp at just under half local and in town. My issue is during my 45 min highway commute. The temp holds as usual until I stop at the light at the end of the off ramp and at any other light until I get to work. The needle rises to 3/4 or so until I am moving again, than back to normal. I checked the fans and they are running as they should, no leaks and coolant levels are where they should be. Ideas?

Ok, just got back from pulling the timing cover off. Fired it up and let it run. Little to no slap for about 5 mins. The idle lowered then the knock started but very inconsistant. The pulleys are sound and solid. The knock is coming from #2 area and sounds more in the area of the valves. Didn't have a screwdiver long enough to get a better listen.

Sorry for the lack of further information. The sound is from the drivers side, sounding from the #4 cylinder area. I have had piston slap on that side from the get go (rebuilt engine) but this just occured yesterday. Performance has not been effected that I can tell.

This was the sound I was greeted with then I stopped at the local ice cream stand and the second one was when I got home. Aside from the noise everything is running good and no codes. http://www.mediafire.com/?uulcn8bvyb1pem8 http://www.mediafire.com/?2f98p91cs51qqlp

Removed the partially working disc changer and noticed the seat springs were messed up. So I pulled the seat out and reattached the supports and tightened the wiring.

Has anyone done a mod on the shifter and have pics to show? I have been thinking about changing up a few interior items and thought I'd ask on here. On the console, the small cup near the e-brake, was there anything else put there other than the cup? Just curious.

Replaced the worn or missing pedal covers.

My wife and I were heading Northbound on I-71 south of Florence, KY and she spotted a suped up Subie Wagon heading South. She thought it looked like a Legacy Wagon or OBW and was dark green, lifted, tinted windows with a load of stickers and a cargo rack. Any chance this was a member on here or know who it might have been?

I had heard of that before but never put it to the test. Till have to do that so I know it's not working and send it back to Subaru for replacement

Ok, thank you for the info. Is there a way to test if one went bad, out of the car?

Is there a certain way the stat is to be positioned? I know that it goes in upside down but is there a position for the cross bar or pressure release doohickie?