MaddCelt

These I do not think the actual fuse wires were colored, just white cloth. The wires connecting to the harness from the engine side were white with a black stripe and solid white and black from the harness to the battery. Yes I did know what happened as I could see where it went bad and how, just used the wrong word to describe it. You are correct as to the reason it happened. Unfortunately I did not have the luxury of time when my father and I were working on it. We had to take advantage of my mother and wife being in town and could stop to get what was needed. Agreed. It has been a learning process and thanks to your explanation I was able to correct my error. I went back and got actual inline fuse wire and I have not had any problems since the switch.

And how about white cloth? I found fusible links at the parts store website. Now I need to know what the amp is for that particular part. I know exactly what went wrong, at some point it shorted in the plastic connector and burned the piece. Fixing it is a challenge as I do not have the facilities to fabricate another and no junk yards local that have older cars to look for one in a pinch. As for being incompetent, as a first time subi/foreign car/oldest vehicle I have owned, I'm having to make due as my own mechanic of my first subi/foreign car/oldest vehicle, I'm doing what I can with what I have. The best I have been able to find on the subject in the three books I own is replacing it.

Just had a new thing happen and it's going to drive me nuts. Found the fusible link had gone bad and in a pinch we replace it with inline fuses. Worked great for a week then today I turn on my turn signal and it starts blinking crazily and the seat belt dinger goes off like a chipmunk on crank. Got that to stop when I checked my belt and noticed it was on the wrong plug. I get to work and shut her down, then flipped the switch (has a toggle switch that turns on the power for ignition) and it;s dead. Check the inline fuse and it's blown. I get off work and replace the fuse and head down the road to the gas station. Shut down and when I try to start it, dead. Fuse is blown again. Replace it, get going and when I get home, blown fuse. I need to know a few things, like the amps of the original fusible link and where the two wires run to. It's always the same one.

Replaced the starter (again) Removed the fusible link and replaced them with inline fuses Changed the plugs Fixed the high RPM issue, had to tinker with the idle screw and the cable adjuster. Changed the main belt I got my car back running again!!! :banana::banana:

We thought that was a mod. Any clues on this part? "for instance I START the car in 1st gear, because it wont go into gear after you start the car.... and the car needs to be moving to go from 1st to second.... and OUT of 4th before you stop."

I came across a 1984 Subaru GL Hatchback for sale for $250. They mentioned a rag top. Was this an option for these?

Ok, now that has me spooked. My pump has began to leak from the seal and I was planning on replacing the seal soon. I would hate to have this issue.

How would I test an AC pump that is not filled and there is a hole in the line? I plan on taking it off and selling the set-up if I can figure out if it works.

Part #2 sounds like the vacuum switches.

I have been dealing with a short in one of the clips of the fusible links and since my Brat is out of commission I thought I'd work on the smaller things. Does anyone have a spare starter wire with the links they'd be interested in selling?

Well that was a premature celebration. Starter gave out again. RPM's were at 2 and 3K once it was running. Found one vac line off but putting it back on didn't effect it and as far as I could tell no others were off. Oil pump seal is giving out And I am broke. Can't spare the $$$ to keep it running. I'm about to the point of parting it out and scrapping the rest.

FINALLY got the Brat back on the road. Had the starter tested and thanks to that it decided to work again. It's running a whole lot better and it seems to no longer rumble and pop when I let off the gas of downshift. Now I can give my wife back her Jeep, happily!

For all you Mudding enthusiasts! My wife got a Jeep and after logging into a forum like this she has gotten the ball rolling for a mudding gathering in Bedford, KY for the area Jeep Owners. What does this have to do with Subie owners?? EVERYTHING! The same location that they are planning on having the gathering is also open for any 4X4 nuts. SO once they get their gathering planned and the cost of rental of the land (real cheap, maybe $20 a head per weekend but I'll make sure) I can let yall know what's going on and see about planning one for Subie owners. Let me know if you would be interested.

It is a brat and manual. I tried the push test and the engine is ok. So I will be trying a bench test on the starter to see if it's acting up or not.

Put the gearshift in 4th, take your foot off the clutch pedal, then release the handbrake. Now open and propthe hood. Push on the front of the car to rock it back and forth while watching the engine drive belts. If the engine (belts) turns a little, the starter isn't hung up. If the engine doesn't turn, rock the car a little harder while listening for a satisfying clunk. A clunk means the starter just broke free and the engine should turn now. No clunk? Then you'll have to remove the starter (Procedure 10). Be sure and read the EVERYONE section of this step. Automatic transmission models: Set the handbrake, then put the gearshift lever in NEUTRAL. Use a socket on the crankshaft pulley nut to turn the engine clockwise (Chapter 7, Procedure 5, Step 6, tells you how). If the engine won't turn, remove the starter (Procedure 10), then try to turn the engine again. Read on. EVERYONE (who has removed the starter): Once the starter is off, try to turn the engine with whatever method you were using (car rocking in gear or socket on the crankshaft pulley). If the engine still won't turn, the GOOD news is that the starter is probably OK. The BAD news is that something inside the engine is locked up so an engine rebuild or replacement seems imminent. And, brethren, that is BAD news. If the engine turns after the starter is removed, the starter motor is probably bad. Take it to an auto electric shop to see if they can salvage it. If you have to buy a new or rebuilt starter, shop around because the price can vary radically from store to store Page 197 How To Keep Your Subi Alive

Just tried that but I do not have a socket large enough. Go figure.

Before the choir of Doh's and forehead flaps, keep in mind that this is the first time I have really gotten into being a shade tree mechanic, so there is a lot I don't know and have no local guys to educate me so I'm winging the hell out of things. Can you turn the crank on an engine by hand with everything connected? Last week I fixed a plug hole problem and the Brat fired up but this past few days I haven't been able to get more than a click. I checked all known connections and all is well, tapped the starter a few times, even removed it an put it back on. Nothing but clicking. So I wondered if for some reason the engine locked up, thus the origins of the question.

What is the best plug gap you EA81 owners have found?

I thought that as well and tried it. The blades hit the bracket and it is still off but a bit further back.

I do not believe so. Been about a week and a half since I pulled it but I just put everything back on it when I set it aside. Bad thing was I didn't put enough attention on the belts so I am not sure how it was set up originally.

To fix the plug hole I have to remove the alt and the bracket that that the AC, AC fan and alt connect to; I reconnected the bracket and the AC compressor. I remounted the Alt and for some odd reason it does not line up with the crank shaft wheel and water pump. There is also a gap between the alt and the bracket on one side; I have been fighting with it for the past two days. When I fired things up when I first had it connected the alt rattled quite a bit and the belt looked like it was going to pop off. Am I missing something here? I hit the limit of my mechanical aptitude and knowledge at this point.

I hit a snag while trying to get the belts on. I forgot what went where. Anyone have a pic of the belt set-up with AC?

Got R done! GD you were right on the simplicity of it. I gave it a coat as suggested and got to work (after removing the alt/fan bracket). I got it about half of the way in and thought it was done, so I pulled it out, saw it wasn't done, cleaned and re-greased the bit and finished it off. Then to be on the safe side I MacGyvered a way to vacuum the cylinder for strays..... Now I have to get the belts and alt back on after I get the gap for the plug. Stopped in before I grabbed my manuals.

Today is the day. Getting to work on the Brat today. Got the tool to redo the damaged plug hole. Crossing my fingers this will get her up and running again.

Boy, if that is all the rust you have for sitting in a field, I'm envious! I had to clean out one heck of a nest out of my dash from it's time in the field. Makes for a smelling trip to work this past winter. Noticed that your vacuum switches are still attached. Any chance you could take a few pics as to where the line is supposed to go? Mine is not connected and I have yet to figure out where it connected to. On the dash, did toy strip off the original cover and foam?