singletrack

No, hot or cold doesn't matter.

Foward U-Joint was totally shot

See anything as in the engine shifting in the bay?

Hiya boys! Bugeye RS 5 speed, 1" lift. Broke at the end of a 14 hour drive. Car gets driven HARD. Started popping, clunking, binding when we came off the highway. Replaced suspect front CV. Replaced suspect propshaft (it was toast!) Most suspension components replaced in the last year Idles fine, coasts with no bind All gears engage Rear diff spins free Clutch has ~ 40k I've had it to the mechanic for a second opinion, they pointed out the bad propshaft UJ. Binds tight enough to stop the car at low speed. Binding much worse when turning. I'm thinking further inspection of engine and tranny mounts? Or front, center diff? FYI this is well beyond typical clapped-out Subie noises.

Sooo... any practical advice on this that doesn't involve a sawzall? Using the come-a-long and rafter method. The cars are lifted so I think I should have plenty of room for removal and installation with just the radiator out...

My 2002 RS's passenger side door handle is falling apart; the lock cylinder has fallen back into the door. The handle is loose but still works. Apparently this is common, I see a lot of other cars the same way... Couldn't find a thread though. Anyway, is there an easy fix? Perhaps one that doesn't require 'exploring' the inside of my door?

Forget the foundry, the future of suspension design is Pine.

I only run 3 wheels to save weight. Seriously, remove the glass.

= just kidding. My ea is fast enough to get stopped in a 75 mph zone, but just slow enough not to get a ticket!

If you wanted a truly acurate speedo for a lifted Ru, you shoulda cut off the digits at 60.

You guys worry too much, just run 4lo on pavement and turn it off when yer trying to park or the like.

I haven't broken one yet, and I was driving around town with welded 4x for months. My fronts are Checker Auto remans and the rears are.... green.