Naked Buell

Coil. Check to see if you are getting power to your coil. That is what is going to give you spark.

Thx CarFreak. I would appreciate that, to be able to actually see what is involved. Nice pic Colemanapp. It looks just like mine. Or it did. I have no hub caps, just the white rims, I have a scoop in the hood and I totally cut my tail light section off, due to rust really bad, and custom made new tail light section. I went with 3 round led tail lights and am in the process of welding up a new custom rear bumper.

Cool. Thx for the reply. One of mine is rusted and I think I need to make a new one. Hey I would love to see a pic of the Rx you painted. I am at the point with mine too and am going back in forth whether I should paint it or Linex it.

Come on people. No one here has ever taken off the trim on the window??? Seriously? Am going to have to break mine to see???

Awesome GD is back on.

I would go the ea81. I love those little motors. It will be hard to find a ea81T. I took an ea81 and replaced the ea82T in my Rx just because it is so reliable and great on gas. Not the fastest or torquest but great motor. I had the ea81 in my Brat and wanted more so I put in a 2.2T. Yes it is a lot of fabricating. I took the whole legacy front suspension and cross member, disconnected at the strut towers, and dropped it as one unit and then lifted and fabricated mounts so the legacy bolts up like on the legacy. But it is all custom and a lot of work. So really, ea82 is more power than the ea81 but those are the options. Like I said, my ea81 runs like a swiss watch.

Any GL that offered the ea81T will fit the Brat. The problem is finding parts. You would be better to stay to the ea81 or to do a Ej swap.

It should, but I warn you about the ea82T. Not a very good motor. I have had my share and have gone through them. You are better off staying with the ea82. Way more reliable. If you want a turbo motor, go to an Ej.

Hey there. Joe is the name and this is the place to find out about your Subie. I was into Ford's, had a Ranger, but got a Subie when my clutch was going out and then had 28" of snow. Guess who was taking everyone to work, because no one else could get around in the snow. The Subie totally impressed me and I have never turned back. I love them so much that my family now has Subie's because I have shown them how awesome they are. So, if you need to know something, post a question and the guys here are great about sharing, and I chime in whenever I can add my two cents. Glad to have you on the site.

I love them. I had a 2.2T legacy and have been in love ever since. As a matter of fact, found another one that had been in the family of the people I bought it from and have transferred it into my Brat. Bought the whole car for $500 and the transmission was gone. Automatic, but I didn't care because I was going manual. I drove the car onto the trailer. It had 170,000 miles but I rebuilt it anyway. They are great strong motors and I really like them.

Anybody? No one know how to get the trim off???

Yep what DaveT said. I clean my regularly. Mine was doing that and just have to clean the switch.

Once you have it open like you do, you could totally make a whole new one. My concern was to see what it looked like on the inside and then mimic it and built a new one. I am finding out that us guys that what to keep our Subies running and looking good, we are just going to have to become fabricators, and it is fun learning to. Really, you just have to get into it and it is easier than we think most of the time.

The striker I believe is the steel "u" bolt that is in the door jam. But the striker doesn't just move all of sudden unless the bolts are loose and you would know. Think about how many times you are slamming your door. It is the latch inside the door. It needs to be greased and or wd40ed from time to time. My Rx did it briefly but once I saw it was a sticky latch I just keep an eye on it and every once and while I will grease it.

I have all the plastics down. The only wires on the 3 door coupes that goes to the actual hatch goes through the shock absorbers for the hatch. No other wires. That is why I was wondering if anyone has dug into those before.

Is the latch in the door hanging up? I know my truck's latch does it from time to time when it is cold. I then grease it up and it works fine. Sounds like the latch.

Does anybody know how to take off the trim on the outside of the doors and small windows behind the doors? On my Rx, the black trim that sits up against the window needs some attention. Some paint is peeling and one piece looks like it just needs to be replaced. Does anyone know how it comes off? I don't want to break it.

Yeah I'm in Evans which is by Colville. I drive through Waterville when I go to the west side. Yes its cool you found one in good shape. I have an 85 Brat that I have lifted 4", I have a 2.2T in her and I haven't even started her yet. I have to finish plugging in the harness and small things but i can't wait.

Well the temp isn't that cold. I was thinking like zero. I always let my cars fully warm up before driving. Better for them. Anyways, you don't even have to pull off the oil filter. I like to leave it on because once you have the 4 bolts out, you can use the filter to hang on to, to help pull it out. I usually turn it just a bit and then you can go back in forth, counter clockwise to clockwise and she usually comes right out. Then you should be able to grab the inners and turn it with your hand and if you can't, oil pump seized.

My Brat always read just under the red all the time and if it was just a bit lower, I was a little low on oil. If it started to squeal, it sound as if the oil pump is not pumping. They are really simple to pull off. 4, 10 mm bolts in the front if memory serves. I would pull it out and see whats going on. While it is out, you might want to throw another oil sender on it too. How cold is it? Was she warmed up all the way? Sounds like you got the right awesome oil in it, so check that oil pump. That is the heart of the engine.

Hey guys. So I my third tail light in my Rx isn't working. I took it out and the bulb is good but I am not getting power to it when I hit the brake pedal. So I obviously have a break in the wiring in my rear hatch. So, my question is, has anyone ever taken apart the hatch shock absorber and ran a new wire through it??? I am thinking of running a new wire.

Haven't checked yet. My Dad got the plow truck stuck yesterday, then I grabbed our 4x4 tractor with chains on the front, I got that stuck then unstuck, got my diesel 4x4 stuck trying to pull my dad out, then unstuck, went and put chains on the front of the truck, and returned to the truck, just next door, and then the neighbor decided to drive the their Forester up the hill to see if we needed help and then the Forester was stuck. That took an hour and a half to get the Forester out, then back down the hill, then I got up there with my diesel truck with the chains and it pulled the plow truck out backwards no problem. There is just alot of snow and slick. I was surprised the Forester got stuck.

I have it the garage now, 4' of snow outside and it just snowed 6" more and we have more coming, and I will see what you are talking about and post what I find. Thx

That really doesn't tell us anything. Tell us why it takes 10 minutes and then it drives fine???? If it takes that long to heat the engine up and seal the rings, it is only a matter of time before it manifests into a major problem but I am only guessing. If the CEL is on, running the code to tell you an idea of the problem would give you an idea of the headache you are looking at.

I bought the car from a guy who blew the engine. I replaced it and drives fine in the snow and everything but I never really messed with the center diff because I didn't know much about it. I figured you only needed to use it if you were really stuck. But the light was always on whether the switch was on or off. And no, it wasn't engaged. I would know the feeling like in my diesel truck when it is locked. I guess I should see if it engages in the on position.