Naked Buell

Hey Bratman, did you every get a pair from the previous guy? I saw you were on the this. Did it not happen?

Hey guys, So I was reading of the guy here who was making the wheel adapters but the company relocated and he lost access to the mill and lathe. Well, being that it is getting harder and harder to find all the parts and cars that we need to make our cars 5 lug, I have been thinking. I have a friend you is a genius and by the way has his own mill. So I asked about the wheel adapters and he was making the years ago for jeeps when he was into that. He said it was really easy. And said he would make me some, with me wanting to learn how to run the mill myself, he would teach me. I was wondering, if things go well and I can make more, would any of you guys be interested in getting some for our Subies? Chime in and let me know. I know I will be probably making two full sets to start off, so let me know.

Check the rear sticker on the diff and then find your serial number on the trans., usuallly up be the bellhousing and run that on the computer and make sure the ratios match.

Thats a cool mod.

Yep, double check everything. It seems something didn't get hooked back up or hooked back up wrong. Double check

Probably anything with that 2.5. Basically you just use the block and transfer everything over. My only concern would be things not bolting on the engine, brackets and what not that the 99 may not have had that the new does but you can always make brackets and things. So it shouldn't be that be of a deal. Like I said, 2.5 to 2.5 to be pretty easy.

If you hear "clicks", check your connections. Like you said, starter might be garbage. It wouldn't be the first time someone had purchased a "new" starter, reman'd, and some short time later, the starter is acting up. Also, when the car is running, take the volt meter across the battery and check your alternator while you are at it. It should be 13.5v or above.

Looks good dude.

Love your car. I like the year of that design. That is weird you have an 1800. Still good, but I had a friend you had that car with the 2.5. I guess you could always upgrade to a 2.2 when she needs it. Another great motor. Actually, the 1800 may be the same block that just needs to be bored up. Check into that.

If you have a new fuel filter and no new response, I'd would be checking your fuel pump. Maybe she is getting weak.

Coil. Check to see if you are getting power to your coil. That is what is going to give you spark.

Thx CarFreak. I would appreciate that, to be able to actually see what is involved. Nice pic Colemanapp. It looks just like mine. Or it did. I have no hub caps, just the white rims, I have a scoop in the hood and I totally cut my tail light section off, due to rust really bad, and custom made new tail light section. I went with 3 round led tail lights and am in the process of welding up a new custom rear bumper.

Cool. Thx for the reply. One of mine is rusted and I think I need to make a new one. Hey I would love to see a pic of the Rx you painted. I am at the point with mine too and am going back in forth whether I should paint it or Linex it.

Come on people. No one here has ever taken off the trim on the window??? Seriously? Am going to have to break mine to see???

Awesome GD is back on.

I would go the ea81. I love those little motors. It will be hard to find a ea81T. I took an ea81 and replaced the ea82T in my Rx just because it is so reliable and great on gas. Not the fastest or torquest but great motor. I had the ea81 in my Brat and wanted more so I put in a 2.2T. Yes it is a lot of fabricating. I took the whole legacy front suspension and cross member, disconnected at the strut towers, and dropped it as one unit and then lifted and fabricated mounts so the legacy bolts up like on the legacy. But it is all custom and a lot of work. So really, ea82 is more power than the ea81 but those are the options. Like I said, my ea81 runs like a swiss watch.

Any GL that offered the ea81T will fit the Brat. The problem is finding parts. You would be better to stay to the ea81 or to do a Ej swap.

It should, but I warn you about the ea82T. Not a very good motor. I have had my share and have gone through them. You are better off staying with the ea82. Way more reliable. If you want a turbo motor, go to an Ej.

Hey there. Joe is the name and this is the place to find out about your Subie. I was into Ford's, had a Ranger, but got a Subie when my clutch was going out and then had 28" of snow. Guess who was taking everyone to work, because no one else could get around in the snow. The Subie totally impressed me and I have never turned back. I love them so much that my family now has Subie's because I have shown them how awesome they are. So, if you need to know something, post a question and the guys here are great about sharing, and I chime in whenever I can add my two cents. Glad to have you on the site.

I love them. I had a 2.2T legacy and have been in love ever since. As a matter of fact, found another one that had been in the family of the people I bought it from and have transferred it into my Brat. Bought the whole car for $500 and the transmission was gone. Automatic, but I didn't care because I was going manual. I drove the car onto the trailer. It had 170,000 miles but I rebuilt it anyway. They are great strong motors and I really like them.

Anybody? No one know how to get the trim off???

Yep what DaveT said. I clean my regularly. Mine was doing that and just have to clean the switch.

Once you have it open like you do, you could totally make a whole new one. My concern was to see what it looked like on the inside and then mimic it and built a new one. I am finding out that us guys that what to keep our Subies running and looking good, we are just going to have to become fabricators, and it is fun learning to. Really, you just have to get into it and it is easier than we think most of the time.

The striker I believe is the steel "u" bolt that is in the door jam. But the striker doesn't just move all of sudden unless the bolts are loose and you would know. Think about how many times you are slamming your door. It is the latch inside the door. It needs to be greased and or wd40ed from time to time. My Rx did it briefly but once I saw it was a sticky latch I just keep an eye on it and every once and while I will grease it.

I have all the plastics down. The only wires on the 3 door coupes that goes to the actual hatch goes through the shock absorbers for the hatch. No other wires. That is why I was wondering if anyone has dug into those before.