Naked Buell

Is the latch in the door hanging up? I know my truck's latch does it from time to time when it is cold. I then grease it up and it works fine. Sounds like the latch.

Does anybody know how to take off the trim on the outside of the doors and small windows behind the doors? On my Rx, the black trim that sits up against the window needs some attention. Some paint is peeling and one piece looks like it just needs to be replaced. Does anyone know how it comes off? I don't want to break it.

Yeah I'm in Evans which is by Colville. I drive through Waterville when I go to the west side. Yes its cool you found one in good shape. I have an 85 Brat that I have lifted 4", I have a 2.2T in her and I haven't even started her yet. I have to finish plugging in the harness and small things but i can't wait.

Well the temp isn't that cold. I was thinking like zero. I always let my cars fully warm up before driving. Better for them. Anyways, you don't even have to pull off the oil filter. I like to leave it on because once you have the 4 bolts out, you can use the filter to hang on to, to help pull it out. I usually turn it just a bit and then you can go back in forth, counter clockwise to clockwise and she usually comes right out. Then you should be able to grab the inners and turn it with your hand and if you can't, oil pump seized.

My Brat always read just under the red all the time and if it was just a bit lower, I was a little low on oil. If it started to squeal, it sound as if the oil pump is not pumping. They are really simple to pull off. 4, 10 mm bolts in the front if memory serves. I would pull it out and see whats going on. While it is out, you might want to throw another oil sender on it too. How cold is it? Was she warmed up all the way? Sounds like you got the right awesome oil in it, so check that oil pump. That is the heart of the engine.

Hey guys. So I my third tail light in my Rx isn't working. I took it out and the bulb is good but I am not getting power to it when I hit the brake pedal. So I obviously have a break in the wiring in my rear hatch. So, my question is, has anyone ever taken apart the hatch shock absorber and ran a new wire through it??? I am thinking of running a new wire.

Haven't checked yet. My Dad got the plow truck stuck yesterday, then I grabbed our 4x4 tractor with chains on the front, I got that stuck then unstuck, got my diesel 4x4 stuck trying to pull my dad out, then unstuck, went and put chains on the front of the truck, and returned to the truck, just next door, and then the neighbor decided to drive the their Forester up the hill to see if we needed help and then the Forester was stuck. That took an hour and a half to get the Forester out, then back down the hill, then I got up there with my diesel truck with the chains and it pulled the plow truck out backwards no problem. There is just alot of snow and slick. I was surprised the Forester got stuck.

I have it the garage now, 4' of snow outside and it just snowed 6" more and we have more coming, and I will see what you are talking about and post what I find. Thx

That really doesn't tell us anything. Tell us why it takes 10 minutes and then it drives fine???? If it takes that long to heat the engine up and seal the rings, it is only a matter of time before it manifests into a major problem but I am only guessing. If the CEL is on, running the code to tell you an idea of the problem would give you an idea of the headache you are looking at.

I bought the car from a guy who blew the engine. I replaced it and drives fine in the snow and everything but I never really messed with the center diff because I didn't know much about it. I figured you only needed to use it if you were really stuck. But the light was always on whether the switch was on or off. And no, it wasn't engaged. I would know the feeling like in my diesel truck when it is locked. I guess I should see if it engages in the on position.

Do it again. You probably didn't have something lined up right because if you did the rotor would tell you. Just start over and double and triple check as you go.

What explains the light on the dash always being on??? Is there a switch on the tranny that is stuck on something?

Hey guys, I was wondering how to check to see if the center diff switch in my Rx is working. The light is on regardless if the switch is turned on or off. Any advice work be great. I finally just took out the bulb in the dash but I would like to fix it so everything works probably. Thx

I had one do the same thing. Opened it up and behind the valve was a hole I could stick my thumb through. Of course it was a ea82T but didn't have any luck with the heads once you see the crack. I had a machine shop weld and reground but it happened again later down the road. I upgraded to a better engine.

Thx for the reply TurboSubaruBrat. That helps out. It is good to hear GD is still doing good. I really enjoyed hearing from GD. He definitely knows his stuff about the Subarus. He bought a tranny from me some time ago, Rx 5 speed. Any how, thanks for the info. If I need any more info when it comes to the older subies I will be sure to shoot you a line. Thx again.

Sorry, mis read. Actually I have never seen a block do that before.

Hey guys. Was looking around for the info about the ea81 head differences just to know what I have. General Disorder was so great about knowing these things inside and out but I haven't seen him around on the site for some time. Also, I have seen people mention JDM when they are referencing engines. Can someone explain that to me so I am clear about that too? Thx. There used to be some great links to read through before but I haven't been able to find them.

Every set of heads I have pulled for the ea82T, I went to the turbo side and pulled the head, they were cracked between the valves. I have set them to a machine and had them welded and reground, and it happened a second time some time later too. In my opinion that engine, ea82T is just garbage. The N.A. ea82 is fine. That is the reason why Subaru made the 2.2T so awesome because the ea82T just didn't cut it. I hunted for heads when my heads cracked and literally every engine I found and pulled the head off the turbo side showed me it was time to change to another motor period.

Wow dude, be happy you didn't wreck. That could have been way worse. Regarding axles, sometimes cheaper isn't better. Some things are totally worth the money,,,,good shoes, good tires, and good parts. Glad you are okay.

Welcome to the site. Awesome site and the guys here know their stuff. I thought I knew subaru's but I am in 2nd grade compared to some of these guys. And what do you mean old girl?? I have an 88 Rx and 85 Brat. He He. I love subarus.

Cool. Thx. I will take a pic so you guys and I know for sure, but that makes total sense now. So just leave the vapor line unplugged? It will be fine???

I may have, but explain it to me. To be honest, not sure what that does.

Okay guys, this is for all you who have the ea82 mpfi engines, or if you just know. So I changed out the engine in my 88 Rx to an ea81 for now, ej coming later. The question is: Right under my master cylinder, on the want-to-be frame rail, I have a hose that I believe went to one of the connections on the fuel injected fuel rail. Can one of you guys look on your car and tell what that goes to? I have mine plugged right now and I am wondering if it should be or not. I have been having problems with my weber flooding with excess pressure when I shut her off and I notice that I have pressure at the gas cap when I open her up. Yes I have the right fuel pump, I put the brat's I had into her. I am thinking maybe I need that line to be vented or I don't know. I just hate having lines plugged to nothing and I want to know. I cant find anything in the manuals with a pic. But it is right under the master cylinder and it has enough line as if it came to the top of the motor. Any advice???? Thx guys. Without each other and this site we would be so frustrated.

Cool. Thx man. I appreciate it.

Unless you can find a subie laying around up there for parts, it looks like you are going to have to hit a pull and part wrecking yard.