Naked Buell

I would guess that it probably has a crack in the head between the valves. I had one in my Rx and I searched for other heads and every motor I checked, it was cracked in the same place. Just my 2 cents but I saw that those engines were problematic.

Sure you could do it, but it will take some modification but doable. If you want to keep the old rig you have to upgrade to a newer motor, but the again you get more HP and reliability. But then again the old rigs were pretty reliable.

Yeah, what engine are we working on here?

Everybody talks about how the Ej turbos aren't reliable but I beg to differ. I found my turbo 2.2T from an elder couple who had almost 200,000 miles on it and that is when I purchased it. I rebuilt it but really I probably didn't need too right away. I just figured it was out so why not. It is all in how you take care of things. I had a 93 2.2T SS that was awesome. The visor specificily said to let idle for 2 minutues to let the turbo cool down after heavy driving. The car drove beautifully until I dozed off one day coming home from work and cartwheeled it backwards and ruined the car. Of course you will be able to find a N.A. Engine easier and cheaper and would still do the Brumby/Brat just fine. I just happened to come across a turbo and was all over it. The decision is up to you. I thought that if I was going to build a Brat, I was going to build a kick rump roast Brat. Just my 2 cents.

Do a compression test. It will tell you if one of the cylinders is the problem.

I haven't seen something like that before. It almost looks like an end to a pushrod but the subie's don't have pushrods. What were you messing with when it fell out? what part of the engine?

I fell in love with the Subaru when I was in High School with an 80 Brat and have been strictened ever since. There is just something about a Subaru.

Yeah, you can not get the XT6 hub any longer. I am looking into making not only the adapters but the hubs as well. I will keep everyone posted about the process. Just looking into the task of doing it. The adapters would allow the newer wheels and tire size without modification of the vehicle. You could just keep everything the way it is. But with the upgrade to the hubs for the rear and changing the front to a newer knuckle and axle you can upgrade your rotors and brakes. I like both ways, but the adapters are easier but if your are getting into performance and racing or four wheeling than the upgraded brakes is a plus.

Yes welcome Andrew. It is nice to see parents raising the children right, that is them having Subie's.

Cool.

On my coupe I don't have anything to keep water from entering. So even with the trim in place, water can still enter, so there must be weep holes somewhere. You can see in that it goes nowhere but into the cavity. I don't believe she is missing anything. I got the car from someone who didn't do anything to the car and wouldn't know otherwise.

I would have to agree. I thought wire wheel would be ok until more than two people, and now this previous post has confirmed that you don't want to do that, and that is coming from professioinal builders, i.e. General Disorder. Besides, bolts aren't that much money for insurance. There is a lot of pressure on those heads. It is containing explosion after explosion. Trust them, new bolts.

So there must be drain holes for water too right? I was thinking there must be if its open to the outside.

So I have an 88 Rx but this applies to any who have a coupe. Right behind the doors on both sides there are holes in the body that the trim disguise. What are they for? I don't have any trim so I am thinking of welding them closed.

First on the top of the tranny, you will see the cable and is if you have any adjustment to adjust. If you do, start there. If not, you may need a new clutch and the screeching sound may be your throwout bearing. Whenever you have you foot on the clutch pedal holding it in, that throwout bearing is spinning on the shaft. I try to keep my foot off the pedal as much as possible. Popping into neutral while sitting at a light or what not. They last a lot longer. But check that out first. How many miles on the clutch you may ask yourself.

Hey no problem. If you wanted you could just get some hose and run a new vent line that you know isn't clogged. But either way, glad you figured it out. I hate when you have something stupid causing problems. We have all experienced that.

That is a good point. WOT you would think a bad filter you would notice.

Yeah I usually just replace the whole axle, cheaper. If you keep an eye on them you can catch them when the boot tears. What I do, I don't drop the strut, I take out the lower pinch bolt for the lower ball joint, and then with a pry bar, pry down and pop the ball joint out of the knuckle, and then you have enough movement, with the steering arm disconnected too, to pull the whole assembly towards you enough to pull the axle out. Or, drop the strut if you don't want to muscle it. Once you do it once, you get faster and faster. I can pull one in about 20 minutes.

Cool. I am hooking my Rx that way. Thx guys.

Check your fuel filter. Sometimes you will get a piece of crud floating in the filter affecting flow. One at the tank underneath and maybe one in engine bay. If not one at the tank, engine bay.

Crazy, now I am confused. But GD does know his stuff. I would double check and now I am going to double check mine.

Like DaveT said, your Loyale is newer so you don't have a vacuum advance, it is all electronic. It is really weird you don't have an engine code, especially if you are in limp mode. So no check engine light? It almost sounds like head problems. No power? Check your plugs for indication of what is going on.

What is the fluid level? First things, always check the obvious. But usually if the fluid is low, you have a hard time engaging. More feedback please.

A TP sensor is your throttle position sensor. I had a Brat that idled great but had no power what so ever. Come to find out the diaphram on the distributor (vacuum advance) was garbage meaning it wasn't getting any vacuum and wouldn't advance the timing when the engine called for it. But then again, my Brat didn't have any electronics either. So you have no engine code? But no power? Engine idles fine? Do you have a vacuum leak or something that didn't get plugged back in?

U could keep the 4wd tranny and just take out the front drive cv axles and put it in 4wd and now you have 2wd to the rear. I had that happen, I busted an axle and I thought the tranny was out, put it in 4wd and got home. Went to the tranny shop thinking the tranny was garbage and it was only a broken cv axle. It would save you a bunch of time and money.