Naked Buell

Hey no problem. If you wanted you could just get some hose and run a new vent line that you know isn't clogged. But either way, glad you figured it out. I hate when you have something stupid causing problems. We have all experienced that.

That is a good point. WOT you would think a bad filter you would notice.

Yeah I usually just replace the whole axle, cheaper. If you keep an eye on them you can catch them when the boot tears. What I do, I don't drop the strut, I take out the lower pinch bolt for the lower ball joint, and then with a pry bar, pry down and pop the ball joint out of the knuckle, and then you have enough movement, with the steering arm disconnected too, to pull the whole assembly towards you enough to pull the axle out. Or, drop the strut if you don't want to muscle it. Once you do it once, you get faster and faster. I can pull one in about 20 minutes.

Cool. I am hooking my Rx that way. Thx guys.

Check your fuel filter. Sometimes you will get a piece of crud floating in the filter affecting flow. One at the tank underneath and maybe one in engine bay. If not one at the tank, engine bay.

Crazy, now I am confused. But GD does know his stuff. I would double check and now I am going to double check mine.

Like DaveT said, your Loyale is newer so you don't have a vacuum advance, it is all electronic. It is really weird you don't have an engine code, especially if you are in limp mode. So no check engine light? It almost sounds like head problems. No power? Check your plugs for indication of what is going on.

What is the fluid level? First things, always check the obvious. But usually if the fluid is low, you have a hard time engaging. More feedback please.

A TP sensor is your throttle position sensor. I had a Brat that idled great but had no power what so ever. Come to find out the diaphram on the distributor (vacuum advance) was garbage meaning it wasn't getting any vacuum and wouldn't advance the timing when the engine called for it. But then again, my Brat didn't have any electronics either. So you have no engine code? But no power? Engine idles fine? Do you have a vacuum leak or something that didn't get plugged back in?

U could keep the 4wd tranny and just take out the front drive cv axles and put it in 4wd and now you have 2wd to the rear. I had that happen, I busted an axle and I thought the tranny was out, put it in 4wd and got home. Went to the tranny shop thinking the tranny was garbage and it was only a broken cv axle. It would save you a bunch of time and money.

Pics of those would be cool. Years of the 300zx too please. Good info.

Could have a bad caliper. I am assuming you have bled it thoroughly. I usually make sure I crack it and have it drip to know I have all the air out before I start to pump bleed. You might have an air bubble in the line. If you can get a steady stream with it cracked and someone stepping on pedal, your caliper is definitely caught on something.

Hey sorry about that. Forgot. Just went out and looked. So pop your cap off and looking straight down at dist. your black/white wire is the terminal on the left and the yellow is on the right. Yellow to negative on coil, black/white stripe to positive coil.

The tranny you want is the D/R 5 speed. I am not sure about cutting up the console. I put a newer Ej 5 speed in but then again my Brat is lifted so that "may" help the situation but not sure, and didn't touch the console. A lot of guys have changed to the D/R 5 speed so I am sure one of them will chime in and let you know. Just start looking for a 5 speed now and the other stuff will work out.

Do you have a diagram that I can reference???? If it came from GD, I am sure he is right. He knows his stuff. I'm at that point to be hooking up the new fuel pump and lines and want to make sure I have them right. So at the 2.2T engine there is 3 lines on the motor, and I have the 3 on the firewall. I think it is fuel supply and return up in the corner, with the vapor to the left of the master cylinder. If anybody knows for sure please chime in. Thx.

I looked tonight but will make sure and post tomorrow..

Pics would be cool.

Interesting. I should probably do the same on the Rx huh? This just insures full voltage and cranking amps to the starter?

If you can't remember then I would change that and check the governor. I am not sure about location. I am a manual guy. I don't like the auto's myself and if something goes on them it is always expensive. But that is just me. You might be low on the fluid and then once it gets enough pressure slams into gear.

Anybody have a link of a diagram of a surge tank so I know I am doing this right?

I just wanted a ballpark. I take really good care of my rigs and wanted an honest ballpark so when I do go to sell it if someone wants to snag it great. But if a new motor with 10,000 miles isn't fairly new to you, that is fine too. I know someone will want it. Thanks for the ballpark price. I didn't know it was so hard to get parts. Just gives me the excuse to do the ej swap of her.

Actually no. You could put your stock back with it but this mod was stiffer and for the offroad here and there. It stiffened things up a bit but I always thought the suspension lacked a little stock. Especially when you have more than two people and supplies.

When was the last oil change for the tranny?

Have you guys tried while doing the fresh oil change, you can use some Dura-lube for one quart of the oil and see how that quiets things down. Now in this case they may need to be adjusted. My father worked as Crane Superintendent for several years for the government. They had an oil expert come in and he had a machine that had a bearing that spun from a motor. From the bearing was a breaker bar that when you pulled down on it would read lbs of pressure. So the expert ran different brands of oil that would shoot around this bearing and you could see how much pressure it would take to stop the bearing. Do you know what the worse oil was that tested???? Penzoil. And it was funny cause my Dad swore by it. Not anymore. Some of the highest readings came from Mobil 1 and Castrol. I am sure that didn't test ever brand. But when the oil expert put in the Dura-lube with the Castrol, he was hanging on the breaker bar with all his weight and couldn't stop the bearing. It made my Dad a believer in Castrol from then on. I liked Castrol anyways myself and ever once in a while I will do Royal Purple but I don't race my either.

Check your connections first. If it clicks something just may be loose. Ground? Just double check. The ignition does wear out especially if people have 2 lbs of other keys swinging from the ignition. I just use the one key not to wear it out.