Naked Buell

Go back to your post #13, your first pic; The red dot and yellow dot is your supply and return. Obviously the bigger of the two is the supply. On the filter you will find an arrow showing you which way the fuel is suppose to flow. So your red dot from the firewall to the filter seems right. Being that you got rid of the canister, it will be just like mine and you will have ones now you don't use. I changed my fitting at the carb to have only one hose. Your blue dot coming from the filter to the carb is ok. Just cap the yellow one at the carb or do what I did and change it to one hose fitting. The green on the top of the filter is your return which should go to the yellow back into the firewall which is the one next to the red. The green on the firewall leave open. The others you plug. What I did on mine was delete the pipe system due to too many plugs. I did away with it just have the fuels lines you need; much cleaner and less confusing.

Front Crank Seal or the oil pump.

I had a 2.2, just came back from a long trip parked it, ran into the house changed clothes and turned around and came to leave and started her up and hard clunk cluck clunk and then I shut her off really quick. The crankshaft bolt came loose the the pulley was loose to the point it broke the wood druf key way at the end of the crank.

Sorry thinking old school. I haven't had any of the loyales past my 88 Rx and have changed the engine to an ea81 due to all the problems the ea82 had. What keeps them from building pressure? I know the oil passages can be drilled to stop the ticking but all I can think of is dirty oil or bad lifters but that is too many to go bad all at once isn't it???

Yeah but we can't get the parts for ours cars so we have to do what we have to do. My Brat ran great but had no power until I found out that it wasn't advancing. So the only place I could find was a guy that would rebuild it. It's cheaper than a whole car and I ain't giving up the Brat. Hello. No way.

How many miles?

First thing is to check your battery connections. If they are bad or loose funny things start to happen. Or the battery may be bad or the alternator. But first check connections and make sure they are tight and not corroded. Also from what I have read, it could be a brake light switch. You should be okay until Monday to drive to Subaru and find out what. Make sure you post what happens.

How is the level of fluid? Otherwise it might be the bearings going bad.

Yep, just take out the motor nuts from underneath and then jack up the tranny lifting the engine. Just lift it enough so you can get to the back screws with a universal. I use a 1/4 inch racket and extension. Small but effective and you won't be able to over tighten. Then slowly lower back into place and put the nuts back on. Also I would purchase some Permatex Anaerobic Sealant. General Disorder told me about this stuff and it is awesome. I bought a tube of it and have done two full engines and still have a half of tube left. What is nice about it is, it doesn't seal until no oxygen is present. So you don't have to worry about it going bad. Totally worth it. I use it on seals and my ea81 pan gasket.

Sounds like you need to adjust all of them. There is a sequence of the firing order. Start at one; and bring to TDC and then check adjustment. Your manual will tell you the clearance. Then go to the next in order. 3, Then 2, and 4. Adjustment the valves so that you can barely get the feeler gauge into the stop. Then when done. Do it again, the sequence and double check.

So here is what I did. I mounted the trans. with a jack and looked to see where it needed a support and made one a then welded the support to be bolted in. Don't let it scare you. Just get the trans. up there and lay underneath and look and make yourself a drawing and start fabricating. Of course once things are in I plan to go back and put some more support, gussets of steel here and there to make sure she is stiff.

U know I can't remember where I sent it but I looked online and found a company and called them and told them what I had and they said to send it to them. He said they tear the vacuum advance open and he confirmed that the diaphragm deteriorated and then rebuilt it and then sealed it and sent it back. I looked through my files and can't find a record of it. My advice, look for a company that rebuilds distributors and call them and see what they say. That is what I did. It was under $100 bucks to fix it.

Did you throw a weight from one of the tires? Get them check and balanced. If tires are good, something is definitely loose.

Okay, I have been studying your pics and I agree with GD. So; you take your supply into your filter; out of filter to your carb; and the top of the filter is your return; leave the other one open. You should be good then. So you have them crossed. Your red mark is good. Blue dot from filter should go right to carb. Delete blue. Green dot on top of filter goes to yellow return into firewall. The canister is just a maze leading to nowhere.

U know sometimes these cars drive me to want to have a couple of drinks. It is like a love hate relationship but I love her to much to shoot her. So, I stopped for a second after it bothering me all day as I walked by her and then it hit me. Wait, GD said "do you have voltage at the motor" and then I said, wait, where is my source. Then I checked at the battery and I had installed a blade fuse and it was blown. Replaced it and the windows works. AHHHHHHHHHHH. Now it is time for a drink.

I had a company I sent my distributor to and he rebuilt the vacuum advance and sent it back.

This car is an 88 Rx that i converted to an ea81 with the weber, the vent line is under the master cylinder, right above the frame rail. Mine was pressurizing too causing flooding once I shut her off, but then I had the vent plugged. I was told to unplug and put a lawn mower fuel filter on the end. She has been fine since.

We are going to find out want things cost to purchase including all the hardware and then we can see what the price will be.

This line goes to the carb. This is your return. The other one on the bottom of the filter on the left is your supply.

Is the round black thing the breaker?

88 Rx

So I checked and no, no reading at the motor when I actuate the switch. I even looked up the manual and checked me hooking up the relay and I had the wires different, hooked up according to the manual and still nothing. The manual shows a breaker. Where is that? Did that blow?

+1

hmmmm, if it runs why do you need to carb it?