Naked Buell

It is nice to have a friend close by that has done it to help you out. If you got it high enough with big blocks of wood and built it solid block for the car to sit on you could drop the driveline and then disconnect the tranny and then disconnect the crossmember, slide it back about 8" inches and then lower it. I have just pulled the engine, but I have done several times. But you don't have to pull the engine. If you raised the vehicle at least a foot higher, it would come out. But having a buddy to help you muscle things around would be a nice help. Buy some beer and make a weekend out of it. You could do it in a day easy, especially if you had the clutch and flywheel already surfaced and ready to go. Then it is just take apart and put back together. Once you do it, you will be; oh, not that hard.

Hopefully you took pics; otherwise take some the next time you make some. I would like to see how they come out.

I was just wondering because I have a fresh ea81 that I rebuilt, has 6,000 miles on her now but I am planning to put an ej into the car. So I was curious of what the ea81 complete would be worth so when I go to sell her, of course to you guys first, I know what to ask for.

Hey guys, so much is a fresh rebuilt Ea81, new throughout worth? I figure you guys that deal with the motor department all the time would know.

Sorry about the headache but thanks for the heads up.

Found a little rust. Decided to repair before she gets painted and that will be soon. More pics to come.

DaveT, can you help me with the acroynms so I can follow. Thx

So in simple terms; supply comes to the filter and leaves the filter to the carb. The outlet on top of the filter is excess which then goes to the return. The vent you leave open. (That is the one to the left of the Master cylinder when looking at it)

It is like he thinks that none of us "First" tried to beef up our Ea81's. We have and that is why all of us are saying you need a better Subaru engine that gives you want we all want out of the Ea cars. IMHO, I love the ea cars and they are perfect with the ej swap. Even the 1.8 but if you are doing it, you should do the 2.2. You wouldn't regret it. Listen to everyone that has spent their time and money into finding out what we are all trying to say. For someone who doesn't have the money, looking for a wrecked legacy with the 2.2 is the way to go. But then again, we are just giving suggestions. You can do what you like, and from the sounds of it, you will.

Go back to your post #13, your first pic; The red dot and yellow dot is your supply and return. Obviously the bigger of the two is the supply. On the filter you will find an arrow showing you which way the fuel is suppose to flow. So your red dot from the firewall to the filter seems right. Being that you got rid of the canister, it will be just like mine and you will have ones now you don't use. I changed my fitting at the carb to have only one hose. Your blue dot coming from the filter to the carb is ok. Just cap the yellow one at the carb or do what I did and change it to one hose fitting. The green on the top of the filter is your return which should go to the yellow back into the firewall which is the one next to the red. The green on the firewall leave open. The others you plug. What I did on mine was delete the pipe system due to too many plugs. I did away with it just have the fuels lines you need; much cleaner and less confusing.

Front Crank Seal or the oil pump.

I had a 2.2, just came back from a long trip parked it, ran into the house changed clothes and turned around and came to leave and started her up and hard clunk cluck clunk and then I shut her off really quick. The crankshaft bolt came loose the the pulley was loose to the point it broke the wood druf key way at the end of the crank.

Sorry thinking old school. I haven't had any of the loyales past my 88 Rx and have changed the engine to an ea81 due to all the problems the ea82 had. What keeps them from building pressure? I know the oil passages can be drilled to stop the ticking but all I can think of is dirty oil or bad lifters but that is too many to go bad all at once isn't it???

Yeah but we can't get the parts for ours cars so we have to do what we have to do. My Brat ran great but had no power until I found out that it wasn't advancing. So the only place I could find was a guy that would rebuild it. It's cheaper than a whole car and I ain't giving up the Brat. Hello. No way.

How many miles?

First thing is to check your battery connections. If they are bad or loose funny things start to happen. Or the battery may be bad or the alternator. But first check connections and make sure they are tight and not corroded. Also from what I have read, it could be a brake light switch. You should be okay until Monday to drive to Subaru and find out what. Make sure you post what happens.

How is the level of fluid? Otherwise it might be the bearings going bad.

Yep, just take out the motor nuts from underneath and then jack up the tranny lifting the engine. Just lift it enough so you can get to the back screws with a universal. I use a 1/4 inch racket and extension. Small but effective and you won't be able to over tighten. Then slowly lower back into place and put the nuts back on. Also I would purchase some Permatex Anaerobic Sealant. General Disorder told me about this stuff and it is awesome. I bought a tube of it and have done two full engines and still have a half of tube left. What is nice about it is, it doesn't seal until no oxygen is present. So you don't have to worry about it going bad. Totally worth it. I use it on seals and my ea81 pan gasket.

Sounds like you need to adjust all of them. There is a sequence of the firing order. Start at one; and bring to TDC and then check adjustment. Your manual will tell you the clearance. Then go to the next in order. 3, Then 2, and 4. Adjustment the valves so that you can barely get the feeler gauge into the stop. Then when done. Do it again, the sequence and double check.

So here is what I did. I mounted the trans. with a jack and looked to see where it needed a support and made one a then welded the support to be bolted in. Don't let it scare you. Just get the trans. up there and lay underneath and look and make yourself a drawing and start fabricating. Of course once things are in I plan to go back and put some more support, gussets of steel here and there to make sure she is stiff.

U know I can't remember where I sent it but I looked online and found a company and called them and told them what I had and they said to send it to them. He said they tear the vacuum advance open and he confirmed that the diaphragm deteriorated and then rebuilt it and then sealed it and sent it back. I looked through my files and can't find a record of it. My advice, look for a company that rebuilds distributors and call them and see what they say. That is what I did. It was under $100 bucks to fix it.

Did you throw a weight from one of the tires? Get them check and balanced. If tires are good, something is definitely loose.

Okay, I have been studying your pics and I agree with GD. So; you take your supply into your filter; out of filter to your carb; and the top of the filter is your return; leave the other one open. You should be good then. So you have them crossed. Your red mark is good. Blue dot from filter should go right to carb. Delete blue. Green dot on top of filter goes to yellow return into firewall. The canister is just a maze leading to nowhere.

U know sometimes these cars drive me to want to have a couple of drinks. It is like a love hate relationship but I love her to much to shoot her. So, I stopped for a second after it bothering me all day as I walked by her and then it hit me. Wait, GD said "do you have voltage at the motor" and then I said, wait, where is my source. Then I checked at the battery and I had installed a blade fuse and it was blown. Replaced it and the windows works. AHHHHHHHHHHH. Now it is time for a drink.