WASHroad

Thanks, not to worried about ground clearance, when and if I need more I would only use a mild lift.= 2-3". With the stock motor I don't really want to deal with larger tires. For now just looking for logging road action and some M/S tires should do the trick. Off topic what is he HP rating for an EJ22 vs the EA82.

So I have a 88 GL wagon and the stock size is 185/75R13 and other GL's in my manual are 175/70r13. I did a Tire Size Comparison and the 175's are a little over an inch smaller. 22.6" vs 23.9". So is the wagon's regeared for the bigger tires or can you run the smaller ones without and much difference? I found a nice deal on some used tires that I want to pick up.. Thanks

New to Soobie land, could you tell me more about the wheel. Are they 14" or 15". What years were these models on cars? Are they 505 wheels? I see alot of the 1" spaced fan type wheels and I used to have a 505 that I think had the rims you have the picture of, but that was in 1905, or so it seems. Thanks, the wagon is looking saweeet........

Well since the GL is running nice, and I think for me the best thing to do is just shop around for a cheap install. The Soobie has been a cheap project so far, and has pulled over 28 mpg as D/D, I will hold off until the funds can get a new windshield installed by a shop. The one in now is cracked and looks like it was sand blasted, makes is a *************** to see out of when the sun hits it. Thanks for all the input.

Anyone pop out a front windshield of an '88 GL. Is a new gasket easy to find. Can you use a used windshield or do they have to be new? Someone told me that old ones break if you try to reinstall them, well that was on a Toyota 4x site, but seems the rules would be the same. Do they change out easy or better left to someone who makes a living from it>

The hardest part for me was breaking loose the front crank pulley bolt. My manual had me pull the starter and jam the flywheel gear with something so it will not turn. I used a block of scrape alum. I had laying around. Once that puppy was loose the rest was cake. The block of alum. worked great to retorque the front crank bolt also.

Does everyone run open diff's? What if the rear has a locker in it so both rear are bitting? Just a thought, new here but that came to mind.

I just got done with a long block swap and the wagon runs like a champ. Cold start great , warm start great, 28 mpg, but when fully warm the tack says it is at 500 rpm. I saw on the hood that timing should be set at 700. How can you set the idle on the SPFI systems. I played with the timing a little but it was hard to get a higher idle and it didn't seem to make much difference like a normal dist. I don't have a timing light so I just set it my sound. If it starts good and revs good, no ping. I saw the idle screw on the throttle body has paint on it like a factory setting. What is the correct way to raise the idle to 700. It idle pretty smooth at 500, just a little loppy.

Mileage on engine? Have you done a compression check on the cylinders? Is there any backfire through the throttle body?

UPDATE: So since the engine swap I have been a D/D and the first fill up was at just under 1/2 tank. 8 miles back and forth the work and a few other 10-15 mile trips and the Soobie pulled down 28.2 MPG. Pretty happy. This is a '88 GL 4WD 5 Spd.

Thanks for the infor, I need to start a file somewhere to keep all this good stuff. I had a guy tell me the 4WD axles were different. Never even really looked at left and right being the same lenght.. guess I was stuck in the transverse fwd engine mod..

I have a '88 GL 4WD 5 speed, will a front drive shaft/axle work that is out of a '91 Loyale, 2WD auto. I would be take the ends off the axle because it is a right hand short side, I need to replace the left hand long side. I need to know if the ends will fit my hubs and transaxle??

Hi all, for the most part I have been beating a dead horse, or should I say a dead cylinder. Found it cheaper to just pick up a nice clean long block then rippin into the engine. Well for me cheaper. Yaked out the rough idle, no power, backfiring engine with came in the car. Dropped in a EA82 out of a '91 Loyale that only had 62K on it. Picked the engine up complete long block from the P-A-P yard for 9$99.50 well plus tax. Just fired it up and took it of a test lap. Cranked it for 5 seconds and it fired right off and purred at 2k, let it run for a few and hit the gas and she dropped right down to 1300. Man I feel better.. Thanks for all the support while I was playing dumb rump roast and didn't even do a compression check. The old block had 80 on #3 and 125-135 on the rest.. well now off to play with other details.. Oh, can someone tell me or post a picture were the heater motor relay is and where the power window control module is? If there is such a thing.

So if you just set your timing belts and the flywheel is still on the timing belt marks is there a way to drop in the distributor and have it in the correct location. Or can you cycle the crank one way or another and be at 20 degrees btdc compression stroke on #1 cylinder?? Will be finishing up a long block swap and seeing if I can locate the distributor with pulling the #1 plug and feeling for the compression stroke.

Does the radiator have to come out to pull the engine. It looks like there is room? It has 5 speed if that maters.

Thank you,, I saw the plug in lead on the right hand inner fender. I think I will just skip in.. Here is WA, we don't get below freeze much on the west coast. This is my first time pulling a engine, well less ripping out the one from the bone yard. So lets hope for a smooth swap. This is good news so far.

Just getting going this morning and first thing I see that is different is on the right hand cylinder. Under the cylinder next to he oil pan is a large plug with two wires coming off of it. This is on the 88 GL. On the 91 Loyale block there is a large a allen head plug?.. Do I have to swap this plug in sensor out or is it something the system will do without?

Pulled a long block at the bone yard yesteday,, looks saweeet. '91 loyale EA82, 2wd auto, 62K. This weekend or next I will do the swap. Pop in a new rear main seal is about all I should have to do. My son and I just lifted it out. Course we had to cut out the front bumper, damaged, radiator, damaged, so it was a straight shot out of the car.

Does anyone know what the weight of a EA82 long block, block, cyclinders, heads, valve covers, timing covers, oil pan, NO flywheel or flex plate.

Been posting on the running issues, but here is the car info. 88 GL wagon 4x4, 146K, 5 spd, D/R, straight body, fairly clean.

About to throw the engine out.. budget car 350. now spending over 150. Had a broken timing belt which got replaced, and yes the timing marks are correct on the cams. Anyway, this is my first Soobie, and I need to figure what I to do with it. Pulled a compression test and it went from 80 122, 130, 138. It backfires and won't idle. It is either going back on G/L as a parts car or maybe pick up a use block at the bone yard. Thanks for the input.

#1,2 cylinders look good, coco brown, #3,4 cylinders look black??? rough and no idle

Priced a new fuel pump, 239$$ ouch,, so I went to the local P_A_P and grapped up a used one,, 6.95. Swapped it out and started the car, it runs better but still no idle and still some backfire when you step on the throttle. The code changed from 14 one long four short to 5 short, which is just a engine ID code. I ran it in the garage for over 5 min to warm it up, and the engine purrs at 2K + rpm. Super quiet/ smooth,, now it will idle down to around 1200-1500 before it starts to lope. I am starting to think maybe a bad signal from dist. When I do get this thing figured out,, the engine should be a nice runner.. Oil pressure runs from 45-65 while running. No smoke and no rod/crank noise, Just need to figure out this thing, Why will the TBI not start unless you open the throttle plate? that may help me figure this thing out..

One long, four short,, Hanyes manual say: Fuel injector #1,#2, (Abnormal injector outbput) Only this is a TBI engine?? Does that mean the throttle body injector is bad? This is the car that has no idle(rough) and no power, will run over 2K nice and smooth in the garage, but no power to drive, and backfires.