WASHroad

Rechecked the timing belt settings and all is fine. Rechecked the dist. setting and all if fine. Started it again today with the same result. I listened and tried to get a little more details of run pattern. Will not start unless the throttle body valve is a little open. Once it fires, it is a rough idle and you have to baby the throttle to get it over 2K rpm.. Engine runs almost smooth at 2K, if you just step on the throttle it will backfire a bit then rev higher. You can do this up to 4 or 5K easy. It feels like you are pulling a pass or the engine is under a total load, if you let it idle down to under 1800 rpm it will shake and die. I have been looking at the Haynes manual and thinking maybe weak fuel pressure. I haven't messed with EFi much at all. Does that sound like something that would cause the engine to run like it is?

I used the pass, front cyl as #1. Pulled the plug and rotated engine until I have compression. Then just enought to get to the timing marks,, I think I even stopped at about 15 degrees. Located the #1 spark plug wire lead on the cap and then pulled the dist. out and dropped it back in to align back up with the cap location. That got it running, but something is way wrong. After work, I am going to recheck the timing marks. I looked at all the vac. hoses and they all seem to be in good condition. Let you know if I got the belts on correct.. Would one tooth off make that much trouble? and it seems smooth at 2-5K just no power or throttle response.

So I been looking for a Factory Sevice manual and I find these in sections. Seem the section 3,4 says wagons. and there is this one section 1. How does this work? Is section 1 the engine only or engine and drivetrain? Dose anyone have a breakdown of the sections. Electrical? Thanks

I had the index pins at 12:00 and 6:00 I think? But that is easy enough to check.

88 GL, just put on new water pump and belts. No history on the car, bought it with broken timing belt. It starts, but not very good, shakes and spudders and a little back fire, I can play with the throttle to get it to run over 2K and it smooths out. But even then it is like a delay throttle response. no real power, it will crawl out of the garage and back in. I had it reving up to 6K , the motor sounded fine, no knocks or rattles. I just dropped the distrutor in at TDC at #1 cyl. no timing light, but I did move it around, it didn't help. Guess I will do a compression check to see how that looks. But I just thought since it was running a driving when the belt broke, it would be fine. I had a manual and set the drivers side like the book side, aligned up the cam and mark. Rotate engine clockwise 360 and set the pass. side belt. Seems pretty basic. Did I miss something on the belt install, it was a Haynes manual. Thanks

NoahDL88, thanks where about's in Lynnwood are you? I just picked up this '88 GL Wagon as my first Soobi.. Should have it running in a week. So far the stores don't know which waterpump I have and have to order it anyway. Where do you get your parts?

Interior is needs cleaned, but not too bad.: [/img]

Here is the Wagon I bought, 1988 GL 145K dead,, towed it home:

Here is a shot after I pushed it into the garage: [/img] Dirty interior, but what do you want for $350 [/img]

What?? the AutoZone said the 180 was OME. Another LynnHood owner,, I am over by Martha Lake

Going to change the waterpump on the 88 GL wagon FI EA82. Do most people tun the 192 or stick with the OME 180 degree thermostate

So I got a little done today, just got the covers off and found the broken timing belt. Also found a leaking waterpump. Looks like the cam shaft seals are leaking also. Think I might as well replace all that while I got it torn down. Most people just use Auto Zone or Shucks or Napa for parts? Off to get prices..

I don't have any history on the GL, the speedo show 145K. By the looks of things I would guess that correct. Plan is to get it going and see how the thing runs after that.

well thanks for the fix. So you run it without the covers? Are the belts that common to go out? I even got a rat dirty Haynes manual with the wagon. I really miss not having an OME Service Manual. Guess now that I have a certian year, I can start shopping around for one. Not sure if I can get to it today, Easter and all. Will review some search threads for the repair.

Yea, I posted a few weeks ago to get some tips on what to buy. It helped alot. Whated a little cleaner interior, but for a 1st rig I'll take it.

Saweeetness, well or something like that. Just glad to have the new wagon in the garage. This is my first Subaru so I have alot to learn. What I have is a '88 GL that isn't running. There is 145K on the wagon and all looks normal. Haven't checked the compression yet, but it wasn't getting spark so I started there. Pulled the cap and the rotor seems to be frozen on the dist. shaft. Couldn't work it off or pry it off, so I thought I would spin it around to see if I could get a better angle on it to pull it off. Only then I found out the distributor shaft dosen't turn. The distributor is locked into the drive gear because I can't turn the rotor by hand. But it dosen't turn over with the engine? I was hoping for some help on this first problem. I was told the car had been runnning but sometimes missing, then just died-- wander why-- any ideas??? Thanks

1988 GL Wagon, 5 speed D/R, 145K, straight body, dirty interior, broken windshield. NOT RUNNING. Just picked up red wagon up and towed it home. Going to post up on getting it running. Distributor isn't turning.. New proud owner will get it alive and well. $350 even has a spare.. haha

Airport Welding- Snohomish, WA super nice people, fair prices. Small shop but worth the drive. Only 20-30 min out of Seattle. I don't have a number off hand, should just be able to pull up the name.

So what is the deal with these. Is there a problem with then or is it just like other MFG of the time. They thought we wanted them. Another question. If you have an auto, how hard is it to switch over to a 5 speed D/R? This Wagon is clean and low miles, just don't like the dash and auto?

Easiest EJ swap candidate. Yo'J I am sooo new I not sure what that is. I am guessing an engine swap? The GL's seem to be around, so I will keep an eye out. If you see one around and I miss it let me know. Sea/tac area, even north to bellingham. I don't mind driving a few miles to get a good deal. I just got back from bainbrigde IS and the wagon was a pile. Said it had 150K but the thing sounded like a turd, and the shift gate was door to door slop. thanks agian for the imput. learning alot

Thanks , good infor there. I don't mind working on carbs, but rather just have EFI. For what I will be using this for, a single range should work fine. I guess I will still shop around and see what comes up. There is alot of fixer ups around. I also found a 90 GL non turbo that loses oil pressure when warmed up, then comes back after it cools down. On the seach it sounds like that is main bearing trouble. That sound right/

Not a d/d, but would like to drive it more if gas goes crazy. I have a 98 Jeep TJ that I have for a d/d and off-road. I was planning on putting my bike in the back to get to places to ride. Hit up some rally type roads. Leaving the rocks and tight 4x for the TJ. It has been to Moab and all over WA. So I still wanted a Hi/Lo transfercase, and a 5 speed, it is I just can't find one. The auto turbo seemed like a nice clean wagon. Good price 1,300

thanks, it has low miles 123K, but I didn't know much about the weight. and no 2 speed transfer.. It will be harder to find a cleaner early model. What about a no turbo auto? Will any of those have the 2 speed case?

Looking at a 88' GL-10 turbo auto trans?? Good / Bad ??

I am in the market for a new toy, I am looking into picking up a GL/Loyale wagon. I am having a hard time finding a time line with information on engine changes and transfer case info. When did the carb/EFI change. When was the Hi/Lo transfer case available. Is there years to stay away from? I have been shopping and can find 86-91's within my budget. They need work, but I can handle that. Just looking for a few good things to look for and a few bad ones to watch out for. Thanks, Not even a newbie,, but I will get there..