gravitate

Best bet is a salvage yard. As long as your terminals in the plug are fine you can use a safety pin to pull back the tiny tabs holding the connector pins in, then pull the wires out. Had to do it on my 90 legacy wagon.

I definitely noticed it at low speeds more. Once I replaced the bearings the problem was fixed. One bit of caution. I had this happen to me once when my outer cv joint came apart, I'm not sure how that caused the same problem but it did. My brake pedal went straight to the floor and had I not had a ebrake I would have crashed into the person in front of me. My point is, there is only a certain distance one stroke of the brake pedal can move the caliper so if the caliper gets spread to far your not stopping unless you pump it so better to replace now then wait.

It first happened when I was backing out of a parking lot, wheel was not turned at all. It would happen with the wheel turned or straight though but more when it was straight. I think thats because when the wheel is turned it is already cocked over and the caliper piston is already spread out but when it's straight and the wheel leans over then the piston expands and therefore you notice it because it has to compress thus making the pedal go down further. The bearing just started going out from normal use I guess, the axle nut was tight. This happened to me with both the front and the back. I'm supprised I have never heard of this happening to other people when it's happened to me twice.

I had this happen to me. First time I replaced the master cylinder and and it didn't fix it. It kept happening over and over but mostly when I was pulling out of a parking spot and sometimes at a trafic light. After replacing everything I could think of I finally figured out that I had a loose wheel bearing. I had no noise or wobble coming from it so thats what really confused me. When I would put on the brake it would straighten the wheel up vertically. When I would take my foot off the brake it would allow the wheel to tilt ever so slightly to the side causing the caliper to expand so that when I would put my foot on the brake again the pedal would go down a lot further than normal to push out the caliper till the wheel would straighten up again. Just a thought.

Well the wrx seats have height adjust on them. The feet were cut and welded for another vehicle so I would have to take them off anyways. I was hoping I could just swap out the feet with mine. Looks like it might be a bit of a project.

well dang I just got on here to question if a set of 02 WRX seats would work. I found a nice set for 100 bux. ,the guy said he thought one areas where the frame mounts to the body was modified so my next question would be do you think the botton rails would be interchangeable?

well dang I just got on here to question if a set of 02 WRX seats would work. I found a nice set for 100 bux. ,the guy said he thought one areas where the frame mounts to the body was modified so my next question would be do you think the botton rails would be interchangeable?

Man I am having the same problem. It happens every other day or so. If I don't floor the gas the car won't start and once it does it takes about 20 seconds or so of driving before it gets its power back. Only MIL code is for a low signal at temp switch. Mine is a 99 obw with 2.2

Yeah I guess I may just have to try and find a set out of a 1st gen legacy. The seat not going back as far was my concern too and a big reason for me upgrading to the 99. I wonder if you can take the bottom rails and swap the 1st gen with the second? Maybe that would give you the extra room. Thanks for the replys ya'll

I just bout a 99 outback wagon with only 97k on it. The seats look new with no tears but the bottom of the door side of both the left and right front seats are worn out. The frame of the seat seams to have cut straight through the foam caused by the owner getting in and out. I have a 91 legacy that had rather comfortable seats that lasted about 300k before I had wear in them. So my question is are there any seats besides the stock ones I have that people have good luck with? The 91 had a style of seats that I only saw in one other car (and I bought them for replacing on the 91) so I would use those but I doubt I would find another set in good condition. I wouldn't mind power seats and mine are heated so that would be nice but not a necessity. Thanks for any advice.

Awesome thanks

I have a heavy duty ruber mat so I'll only need the panels. I'll go to a yard and so the swap and post pics next week unless someone says the just absolutely won't fit

I own a 99 outback wagon. I am a mechanic and the grease and dirt in my trunk really gunks up the cloth panels. I was wondering if I could install the trunk trim from a 90 to 94 legacy wagon in my 99. I really like the plastic panels and the jack door and storage door in the legacys. These cloth doors keep falling off. Also I was hoping that if I can swap them out then I would be able to have the rear speakers in the rear strut towers. Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Well that project wasnt fun but it got done. Everything fit prefectly. Miles I just email you.

So I found a 95 without abs and took the master cylinder, the proportioning valve, the engine bay brake lines and the hill holder for $40. Hope it all fits, fingers crossed. So I will have that abs pump for sale. I found out that 04 forester xt has a hill holder and a hydraulic clutch. It looks like the hh is exactly the same as the one I picked up today besides the cable and bracket that attaches to the top. I guess the new subaru hh has a cable that goes through the fire wall and attaches to the clutch pedal. I'm thinking all I would have to do is buy that top bracket and cable if I can find one and the rest should attach. Only thing is I have been reading alot of complaints about the hill holder in the Forester but Im not sure these people haven't had a HH before or that this one in particular sucks.

Well I was hoping to fabricate something for the hill holder and keep it hydraulic. My 90 is a cable setup which works ok but the clutch is like pushing a brick compared to the feather hydraulic. I have broke my cable 4 times at the pedal side and then my clutch pedal broke from the metal wearing to thin where the cable connects. Not sure what I'll do yet. Miles, I will sell ya that pump if I can figure out how to delete it tomorrow. Hows $25 bucks? That'll include shipping.

So you weren't having this problem until after the hose blew roght? You may have already tried this but turn your heater on when it starts to over heat. I have seen this happen a million times after a hose, thermostat, radiator etc gets replaced. What happens is you get air bubbles in the system and so air gets trapped on top of the thermostat and the coolant doesn't engage the tstat thus causing overheating. Also when you fill your radiator (from the radiator cap, not the overflow) make sure you unscrew the plastic plug on the top left of the radiator. This allows for filling up the radiatar to the fullest because it allows air to escape. This plug is has either a square head or a phillips head. After the air bubbles escape make sure to check the fluids again cause the level can drop. I drive a 90 wagon and this happens nearly everytime I replace something in the cooling system. It happened 2 weeks ago after replacing the tstat, but turning the heater on for a couple seconds did the trick.

I am wanting to completely remove my ABS system from my 99 Outback Wagon, I am wondering what year vehicle I should pull the brake lines from to install on this one? or possibly the other option I ask about below. First off heres why I need to do it. 1. I really don't think I would like ABS, I grew up in icy Colorado and have become quite used to being able to feel the road thru the pedal and to be honest I am kinda scared that abs will not allow me to have as much control as I'm used to. 2. I am also very used to my hill holder (91 Legacy), and so I am hoping to be able to add that to a non abs system. 3. and most important is that in my 91 legacy I have a deep cycle battery sitting in the location of the ABS pump. So I have 2 batteries hooked up in my car now, one for start and run and the other for my power inverter so I need that space freed up. Here might be another option but I dont know. I was thinking I could just rebend the existing lines around the ABS pump and just splice them together and route them along the frame below the pump. I am putting a 2.2 in the car today so I'll have to space to do it and the battery now. So my next question would be is there a brake master cylinder I could use that has the hill holder option and if so what year and model? Thanks for any help.

Dang I keep striking out. I'm in Colorado.

So I found a 97 legacy L wagon with the ej22 in it. Do you think that would have the same ratio?

Awesome, thanks for the info. So from what I understand Subaru started going to the 8 bolt trannys in 2000 so all I'm wondering now is if I find something 411 pre 2000 if I will still have to make modifications for the starter. any idea?

My friend needs a tranny for his 2000 forester, 5 spd. I was told it had a 411 gear ratio but I don't know much more than that. Anyone know which year trannys might interchange? I was told only 99 to 01 foresters and no other models but I have a hard time believing that. Thanks for any help.

I have a 91 legacy and it keeps popping out of 4th gear while driving so I figure with 327k on it it's time for a new tranny. It is a 5 spd AWD. I am wondering which trannys will fit. I would like to get one out of a newer car with less miles so 90 to 94 will probably have too many miles. I was told after 94 something about the exhaust hangers are differant which doesn't bother me, I just want to make sure the wiring and componants are the same. And does anyone know for sure what the final drive gear is 390 or 411? Thanks.

Yeah I guess at the time I didn't know there was a front diff. They God for subies being forgiving. I put a used motor in this thing when I bought it, and forgot to put oil in it. I started it up and backed it out of the garage, about a minute later I realized what I did and shut it off. Never had a problem with it.

Well I checked the linkage and everything looks good. I put new fluids in my trans and my diff and then drove it around. Not a single problem yet. I misread a shop manual a long time ago when I was just getting into cars and was under the impression that the transmission and the diff shared the same fluids so I never changed my rear diff just my tranny. I have had this car for 150k miles and I'm sure the owner before didn't ever change it either. The old oil was thick as cold honey. Still don't have a clue as to what happened so if anyone wants to chime in please feel free.