mcgarvey2001

I've been busy notching the cross member, welding, and painting but sadly no longer seem able to post pictures with either my phone or computer although I've tried a number of solutions found through searching. Any ideas?

The right side cam sprocket is broken which makes me worry about the cam shaft. I guess I'll have to pull the rocker assembly for a look see. Any advice?

I picked up the donor car for the engine. It was hit on the passenger front corner hard enough to wrap the frame around the engine, so I borrowed my buddy's Porta Power.

Measure twice, drill, rinse, repeat. Done with the lift blocks.

Duplicate post... Doh!

Marking holes for lift blocks with offsets for new cross member.

Verifying fit of the modified cross member prior to welding. The outer flanges aren't in these shots.

Born and raised here myself, FHS class of 79. Long road indeed; if I actually knew what I was doing it would be quicker but it takes me a long time to figure out how things are done. This site is amazing though, I just pulled some rear axles in about a fourth the time the book method would take by just lowering the differential (thanks to Miles Fox).

Fabricating the new attachments that will utilize the Brat's vibration damping hardware. The square tubing paralleling the cross-member and attached angle is a jig for welding.

Rear cross-member modification. In the front, offset holes in the lift blocks work as adapters between the XT6 front crossmember and Brat frame rails but in the back it's more complicated as the attachments are completely different and the XT6 cross-member wouldn't fit very easily anyway. So I'm cutting off the old bits.

Rust-proofing and painting.

I like the manual impact driver for screws like this, great for those nasty brake disk screws.

Deconstruction. Most of this along with the motor and transmission will be for sale. In the mean time I wish I had some place to put parts. I have a fair sized two car garage but it's got a lot of camping/backpacking/rafting/kayaking/bicycling/Christmas decorating/miscellany that fills it up.

It's got a few dings, probably would only fetch $900 I pulled apart all the XT6 bits to clean and paint.

I’ve been a member for over 4 years but, other than a half dozen inquiry posts and a couple purchases, I’ve been a lurker. I’m posting now primarily to say a big thank you to all the board contributors that make USMB such an awesome resource. Back in the day I owned a Gen 1 Brat that I enjoyed immensely, taking excursions with my girlfriend (nothing like a picnicking in the jump seats while bison amble by). Four years ago, that girlfriend (now wife of 27 years) assented to my notion to get another Brat and I discovered USMB. The new Brat’s been my daily driver while I've plotted my build and I’m finally digging in. If you’re interested I’m starting a build thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147698-mikes-87-brat-build/

Here’s my 87 Brat. It was purchased rust-free in Arizona, but is starting to get some rust from life here in Montana, time to keep that at bay and do all the mods I've been planning: EJ22T engine from a 94 Legacy FT4WD D/R transmission with locking center (hybrid XT6 and 5 sp. D/R with helical front diff) 3.9 final ratio, clutch pack rear LSD Complete XT6 suspension including changeover to struts all around with coilovers built around Audi and Camry struts, 150 lb/in springs.· 4 inch lift with 3 inch drop blocks 15” wheels (Outback or Forester), 28” AT tires, some fender trimming will happen· Tube bumpers, roll bar and jump seats New light harness and lights and LED signal lamps XT6 seats new carpeting, sound deadening/sound proofing and stereo Another angle with most of my Subaru stable; not pictured is an XT6. Yes, I may have a problem.

Did you give this a shot?

What are the options for the tail section? In particular I'm wondering about the D/R transfer/low range shifter rod and an XT6 transfer section. In the PT4WD the rod engages the rear drive shaft in the transfer section and and passes clear through to engage the low range. In the RX it apparently just passes through on it's way to the low range. On the XT6 box there is a casting for it on the back, I'm not sure if it would need to be milled out or if there is a plug; there doesn't seem to be a matching casting on the front. Can the XT6 case be modified for Gloyale's version (and how are the oil seals accomplished?) or does the FT4WD locking center fit into the PT4WD transfer section, or perhaps the rod is routed externally to the transfer section? Any updates on how these things are working out? Thanks, Mike

Your shaving to thin the flange, yes? How much do you need to shave?

Hmm... After digging further in the archives I see (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110388&highlight=brat+headrest) that later model Brats might have the window supports in the wrong location!

Ben, Thanks for the pictures; some nice ideas there. I'm retrofitting into an '87 so I don't have the bottom headrest brackets. Your solution looks good. Is it true the bracket goes over the top of the window supports using the top bolthole and a longer bolt? My seats are devoid of all of the mounting base, which I guess frees me up to build a removable mount like yours. You mention it ending up 1/2" too short. Can you explain; it looks like it actually lifts the original mouting off the bed. Thanks, Mike Opus> Practically ever other car here is a Subi; I'd think there'd be a bunch on this forum.

Hi, I need to make some mounts to install some jump seats and the headrest tracks in my Gen 2 Brat. Does anyone have any pics or diagrams of the mountings (dimensional info would be great). Is the Gen 1 mounting the same as Gen 2 (I'm not sure which the Jump seats came from)? On a related note, I searched the forum and found this has been asked before but apparently pics get deleted after a certain amount of time? Thanks, Mike