live2fish

What would be the "driving performance" effect of replacing the O2 sensors vs. using the spacer method? Is any long term damage averted by replacing the O2 sensors that would occur if an anti-fouler spacer is installed instead?

Thanks to all of you who helped me find the problem and fix my LLBean. I found and repaired a poor connection inside the loom on the yellow blue power supply wire (a second wire was spliced into the main wire and was barely connected by about 3-4 strands of wire). There are lots of wires! I pulled the fuel pump assembly again to double check for problems. I noticed this time that gas was running out of the bottom of the assembly, not just dripping from the strainer bag. I was checking for a canister filter, which I discovered the 2003 3.0 does not have inside the holder. But, there is a shallow cap with an o-ring on the bottom of an otherwise empty "fuel delivery reservoir". This clue - "vacuum leak on the intake side of the fuel pump" - led me to find the problem on the "discharge side". The o-ring was poking out a little on the side of the canister facing the fuel pump and one of the metal latches on the cap looked "bent". Looking closer, the latch was split about half ways where it bends up from the cap, barely catching the outside edge of the tab on the canister. So, when I tried to start the engine, fuel was leaking back into the tank, preventing the system from pressurizing. I couldn't locate just the cap, so I got the whole assembly from my local dealer who gave me a 20% discount. I installed the new assembly, put everything back together, lots of electrical tape and some rubber pool liner to protect the wiring (yes very dry) and it started right up. How many times have you seen this problem? Add this to the reasons for a "NO START" - faulty in-tank fuel filter canister cap. I was told it was not a serviceable part. I suppose I could have installed the longer metal filter holder (cap) that is used on the 2003 four banger and just left out the filter (mine is under the hood), but I didn't. Thanks again for all the help, it is very much appreciated. live2fish )><(())*> Two days later, the CEL came back on and....

The pressure gauge is on the passenger side fuel rail line where the damper was located. Voltage is getting to the pump connector and I can hear the pump turn on when I key up the engine. Unfortunately, I did not inspect the fuel assembly fuel filter nor change it, replaced the pump and strainer bag. I pinched closed the fuel return line and the fuel pressure did not increase. Newbie mistake on the tank filter. The original intake sock was pretty dirty. I need to take out the assembly again and check and replace the filter in the tank. I replaced the canister filter under the hood. Fuel pump intake vacuum leak? live2fish )><(())*>

The injectors all have good ground - tested with a noid light. Cleaned the connectors. Went through the no start diagnosis again and I'm back to the fuel system. Got a good fuel pressure tester and there is only 10 - 15 PSI when cranking and none afterwards. I replaced the fuel pump already. There is no gas in the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. Is there some kind of check valve in the gas tank that is not part of the fuel pump? I also got a new code - P0113 - Intake Air temp circuit high input. The car still won't start, so I can't complete the first step of the diagnosis. But the freeze frame data showed 59ºF coolant temp and 55ºF IAT. Please tell me I need a new gas cap. Is that a possiblity? I can hope. Thanks for the help. live2fish )><(())*>

Thanks for the input. The pink and violet wires between the ECU and each individual injector - B137 #1 (injector 1), B136 #8 (injector 2), B136 #5 (injector 3), B136 #4 (injector 4), B136 #3 (injector 5), and B136 #1 (injector 6) - would have to be the "valve open" signal wires, right? If there is continuity between the ECU connector pins and the injectors and good ground between the ECU and the body, how do you test for the correct "valve open" signal from the ECU to the injectors? As far as I can tell, the main relay B47 pin #4 supplies power directly to the ECU at B137 #2 and #3, B20 #4, and B22 #10 (to injectors). There was power to injectors, but not to the ECU. Inside the wiring harness the relay wire connects to the ECU wires and also to the other wires that feed the two connectors under the hood. There was a disconnect in there somewhere and no power was being supplied to B137 #2 and #3 so I jumpered the power supply as decribed previously and that ended up resolving the power supply to the ECU and power was still supplied to the other connections also. I am reaching the point of diminishing returns here. I have only taken a vehicle to a shop for repairs after knowing what needed to be fixed and deciding I couldn't repair it or didn't want to repair it. I am wary of taking it in without a better idea of what needs to be repaired (whole different control problem). I am going to go through each diagnostic for no start step by step once more. If I can't get it resolved, I will need to place in the hands of capable professionals. Thanks Again for the help. live2fish )><(())*>

Thanks for your help! They looked good, but I will try it anyways.

Thanks for the suggestions and help. The diagrams E/G(LH6)-03, E/G(LH6)-06, and E/G(LH6)-11 from the "WIRING SYSTEM" section, "ENGINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM" sub-section show that the wires should be connected electrically - I'm hoping it's correct? Thank you, yes, 5/8 full tank. I did not go back after cutting and splicing to check the fuses again, but I hear the fuel pump running when cranking (back seat still out). I disconnect the negative cable when I mess with the ECM and wiring harnesses. I assume this is part of being careful. Is the magic smoke the smell and sight of burning/melting wire insulation and metal caused sometimes by extreme heat when electrons try to "jump" too far (loose power wires)?

I noticed the B137 #2 wire had already been cut and spliced back together once before when I started to remove the tape and covering from the ECM connector harness. I also noticed that B137 #2 & #3 appeared to enter the engine compartment through separate harnesses - one yellow/blue (YL) wire to B20 #4 and one YL wire to B22 #10. I "unspliced" B137 #2 and cut B137 #3. Next I tested for and found continuity from the wire harness side of B137 #3 to B47 #4 and also from B137 #3 - B20 #4. There was no continuity between the previously spliced wire harness side of B137 #2 - B47 #4 nor between B137 #2 - B20 #4; there should be, I think. Next I cut YL wires B47 #4, B20 #4, and B22 #10. I crimped a connector and a jumper wire to each cut wire. The wiring diagram shows that all five of these YL wires are in series so I put a big wire nut on all 5 jumpers and re-ran the "Engine Starting Failure Diagnostics – ECM Power Supply & Ground". The tests all passed and there was now correct voltage at the ECM B137 #2 and B137 #3.... ...but the car still cranks with no fire! After I run a new #2 YL wire and splice the others it back together I suppose a proper fuel pressure test using a better gauge than my finger and thumb would be next? live2fish )><(())*>

I am grateful for the help and advice I am receiving here from experienced Subaru technicians, mechanics, and others. Thanks for the help OB99W. Measure twice, cut once, I always say – good advice. Answers to your questions: - KEY ON – 11.8 V at each injector connector yellow/blue wire. - Checked SBF-5 and it is good - has continuity. I have to say I didn’t like where you were going with this next because it was “Step 5 Engine Starting Failure Diagnostics – ECM Power Supply & Ground” and my probes had been too worn to go through the back of the ECM connector do it before. I have the good meter now so I crossed my fingers and …. - …KEY ON – 10.9 V between B134 pin #2 and ground! Really, exceeds 10 V, I tested it three times using different chassis grounds, cycling power each time to make sure. Whew!! How much does an ECM run these days anyways? Go to step #6 (down there ↓). - KEY ON – 11.8 V B22 #10 – GE. I have done the previous steps 1–4 and gone through steps 6-9 also: Step 1 – resistance between B47 main relay terminals 3 – 5 & 4 – 6 less than 10 Ω when relay terminals 1 & 2 are powered up with 12 V. Go to step #2. Step 2 – resistance between B134 #22; B136 #8, #17, #18; B137 #8, #9, #21, #31 and ground all less than 5 Ω. All zeros. Go to step #3. Step 3 – KEY ON: 11.9 V B137 #10 – ground, and then it got weird. Found 0.0 V B134 #14 – ground; B134 #14 wire is supposed to be green/red and it is orange. B134 #14 is just one up and one over from B134 #22 black/white wire (terminal engine ground, I think). Be nice if an ECM connector diagram was pasted on the inside of the protective cover plate. Found a green/red wire at B134 #3 and it was 11.6 V B134 #3 – ground. If that’s the right wire for the ECM input voltage, we’re golden, otherwise?? B134 #3 is supposed to be violet/green and goes to the rear defogger according to “E/G(LH6)-03”, pp WI-179. Go to step #4? Step 4 – resistance between B134 #2 – ground > 1Ω. Go to step #5 (up there ↑). Step 6 – I’m not sure if this test is KEY ON or OFF; I think ON because the previous step #5 was KEY ON and it doesn’t say to turn ignition off until step #7. I did it both ways with two different outcomes. KEY ON: 10.9 V B47 main relay terminal #2 – ground > 10 V so go to step #7. KEY OFF: 0.0 V B47 main relay terminal #2 – ground < 10 V; it directs to repair open circuit between ECM connector and main relay. Step 7 - KEY OFF: resistance between B47 main relay – ground ≈ 0.3 < 5 Ω. Go to step #8. Step 8 – KEY OFF: 12.2 V B47 #5 – ground; 12.2 V B47 #6 – ground > 10 V. Go to step #9. Step 9 – KEY ON: 0.0 V B137 #2 – GB & 0.0 V B137 #3 – GB < 10 V. (The yellow/blue power wires are too fat and I measured voltage with the connector unplugged - which I don’t think would change the input voltage result?). Diagnostics direct to “repair open or ground short circuit in harness between ECM connector and main relay connector.” It appears I have an open circuit between B47 #4 and B137 #2 & #3. The diagram shows that the yellow/blue wire that runs from B47 #4 to B137 #3 and the yellow/blue wire that runs from B137 #2 to the solenoids and the injectors intersect and connect somewhere in the loom between the ECM connector and the main relay. The two wires must still be connected in the loom which might explain why I get power to the injectors, but no start because there is no ECM signal to the injectors and who knows what else? Maybe the connections in the ECM socket at B137 #2 & #3 are bad. Should I pierce the wire insulation just before the socket on #2 & #3 and check for the voltage? Should I go buy a box of electrical tape? Do they make a pin extractor that small? I suppose. I have this [false] sense of being closer to finding the problem and the solution. Thanks again for all the help! live2fish )><(())*>

Thanks again for all the pointers. I will not use starting fluid in my Subaru again. I don’t think it did permanent damage. I do have a manual and wiring schematics, and I have some limited experience with diagnosing electrical problems. Step 2 of the diagnostic procedure asks if signal voltage between ECM connector and chassis ground on faulty cylinders exceeds 10 V with key “on”. I get no voltage with red lead on ECM connector B137 - #1, B136 - #6, #5, #4, #3, or #1 and black lead to ground. That doesn’t seem right, but it’s less than 10 V, so step #3. I brought home the “Fluke” meter from work to double check the resistance test between the fuel injector connectors and engine ground – still nothing - tested all 6. Step 3 of the diagnostic procedure says that if measured value is less than 10 Ω to “repair ground short circuit in harness between fuel injector and ECM connector.” Even with the diagrams it doesn’t seem like it will be easy to find the bad ground. Injectors connect to the ECM through connector B22 – the 6 wires tested for voltage in step 2. The injector yellow/blue wires are all connected to the camshaft position sensor connector which is connected to the ECM by two wires through connector B21 and also to four solenoids through connector B20. From there the yellow/blue wire makes its way back to the ECM and the main relay which are grounded through connector B47 - #1. All of these are part of the engine harness and grounded by either GB-3, GB-5, or GB-6, I think. The closest grounds are two 4-wire engine grounds bolted onto the top of the intake that come right out of the wire loom under the intake. The loom is kind of pinched there with a tight zip-tie. I don't have my hands on a compression tester or a working fuel pressure tester yet. That crank postion sensor sure is tough to get at! I'd really like to get this car running, tired of driving the plow truck around. Wish me luck. live2fish )><(())*>

I'm back after working on the Subaru. I tried most all the suggestions and then some. Here's what I've done so far: -Replaced ECTS and that took care of the error code. -Replaced the battery (it was old and drawing down fast with all the cranking) -Replaced the plugs (tips were rounded, but no unusual wear). -Checked for spark on all of them; they all have spark. -Replaced the fuel filter. -Replaced the fuel pump; pressure is better. -Tapped on the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. -Checked the vaccuum hoses, PCV hoses & tubes; replaced cracked PCV tube; didn't find any disconnected or other cracked hoses. -Started engine twice by using some starter fluid in top intake PCV tube (I saw that some use Sea Foam in the intake to clean it ). The engine started and ran very rough. -While running checked for injector "noise" with screwdriver and detected slight vibrations. -While running checked for fuel pressure by trying to squeeze fuel line closed at the output side of fuel filter - I could squeeze down on it some, but not all the way closed as before I replaced the fuel pump (pressure tester I borrowed wasn't working, needle didn't move). -When I gave it some throttle, the engine stalled and wouldn't restart. I scanned it again and got "cylinder misfire" codes for each and every cylinder 1 through 6. I started the code diagnosis and got to the resistance test between the injector ECM connectors and chassis ground and got "no reading" or zero on the two I tested before I hung it up for the night. I know the electric meter works. Is the problem a missing ground in the injector engine harness and if so, what is the repair? Thanks again for the help and suggestions. I've learned a lot from this forum. live2fish )><(())*>

Thanks again for all the advice. I followed the testing procedures from ALLDATA.com for the ECTS. The first step required an engine start and a read of the ECTS data with a scan tool. I couldn't do that as the car doesn't start and the scan tool I borrowed doesn't read "live data". The rest of the steps led me to the last step and instructed to replace ECTS: the resistance between connnector E8 pin # 2 and engine ground was less than 5 ohms - 4.5 ohms. Of course the meter could also be off +/- 0.5 ohms. If a bad temp sensor was preventing start-up, would the engine start simply by plugging into a new ECTS (not threaded into the engine) that would be detecting ambient temp - 60º? I guessed that it would, but it did not start, either because the ECTS isn't the problem or the battery was weak from previous testing and I forgot to recharge it. I was told a "quick and dirty" method of testing for fuel pressure was to try to squeeze the fuel line closed downstream of the filter while cranking the engine with the gas pedal to the floor....if you could squeeze it closed when the fuel pump was pumping gas, there was a good chance that the fuel pump was bad. Is that a good indicator or not? When I was going to give it another shot, I spotted a cracked plastic hose bracket/holder. It was molded to the hard plastic PCV tube that threads between the throttle body and the "air chamber" (newbie name for the big black plastic thing that sits on top of the throttle body). Upon further investigation I found a hairline crack right along the hose production "seam" and it split wide open when I pulled the PCV hose off the connector at the top of the engine. I missed this twice while checking the vaccuum and PCV hoses before - maybe I need glasses! Would a cracked PCV hose be enough to prevent the engine from firing? As I plod along with this project I am rumbling down the road in my trusty rusty '86 Chevy 3/4 ton plow truck. I just hope it holds together long enough to get my Soob running! LOL! Most of my mechanical experience has been from working on the old Chevy and replacing Subaru front axles. I think I am finally getting my head wrapped around the "ECM" system running my vehicle. I'll replace the hose and fire it up again - the battery was on trickle charge all night and is charged back up - might get a new battery too. Thanks again for all the pointers! live2fish )><(())*>

Thanks for the pointers! I tried unplugging the coolant temp sensor and starting it up before this (I read about it somewhere on this board so I gave it a try) and it made no difference. I'll recheck the vaccuum hoses and I'll check the PCV valve hoses. Coils are all plugged in. I got my hands on a scanner and the only trouble code I could read from the ECM was P0118 - Engine Coolant Temp Circuit high input. The Freeze Data Frame function read: DTC that caused freeze frame P0118 Engine RPMs 158 RPM Load Value 1.9% MAP Sensor 97KPA Coolant Temp -40ºF Short Term Fuel Trim1 0.0% Long Term Fuel Trim1 0.0% Short Term Fuel Trim2 0.0% Long Term Fuel Trim2 0.0% Short Term Fuel Trim3 -100.6% Long Term Fuel Trim3 -100.6% Short Term Fuel Trim4 -100.6% Long Term Fuel Trim4 -100.6% Vehicle Speed 0 MPH Fuel System 1 Open Fuel System 2 Open Newbie questions again. Do I replace the engine Coolant Temp Sensor or is there a wiring/contact problem between the ECM and the sensor? What do "Fuel System 1 Open" and "Fuel System 2 Open" mean - open circuits, bad fuel injectors, or...? Thanks Again, live2fish )><(())*>

Gloyale, Thanks for the reply. I am a newbie, so please forgive all the questions. This map sensor (intake manifold air pressure sensor?) is mounted on the throttle body, correct? How does the MAP sensor [or it's malfunction] prevent the engine from starting? What is the test for it's correct operation? I didn't see or feel any cracked/brittle hoses. Would a vaccuum leak by itself prevent engine start-up? I removed two spark plugs and they looked pretty new - NGK PLFR6A-11. Spark plugs were not easily accessible! Thanks Again, live2fish )><(())*>

I love my Subaru - 2003 LL Bean OBW H6-3.0L - even though I had to have it towed home Thursday night. I'm new here so if my answers are spelled out elsewhere, please refer me to them - TIA. I drove about 2 miles, came to a full stop, and started off again. Then the engine felt like it wasn't getting enough gas and it started to "sputter". I looked at the gas gauge, it was about 1/8 tank; I pumped the gas pedal and the engine took off again. I stopped to fill up with gas and it didn't start back up again. I checked the battery - 12.5 V with ignition off, 11.0 V when cranking, and two weeks ago I measured when running at 13.8 V (I thoought the alternator was squeaking). Tried a jump-start anyways, didn't start. I checked the fuel filter - gas pumping in and out. Changed it anyways as they were on sale. I checked the fuse panel and all the fuses are okay - did not check the relays but read here that there are no relays for the ignition. In this forum I read that there are coils for each plug and the power to the coils is regulated by the on board computer? I disconnected and reconnected the negative battery clamp thinking it mght "reset" something and tried to start the engine. Still only cranks but won't fire for more than a couple seconds - or not at all. My CEL comes on intermittently, had it checked once and was told it was an O2 sensor. I had this happen on a 1993 Subaru and drove it w/o issues for years so I have ignored it with this car too (I feel your eyes rolling). I don't know which one it was. If I understand correctly, there is no Haynes Manual for the H6-3.0L? I could check ALLDATA at my library for info - fixed my A/C with info from that site. It doesn't seem likely that all 6 coils/plugs would fail at once? My fear is that it could be the timing chain (not a belt if I understand correctly). My hope is that I am overlooking something simple. I will have it towed in for repairs if I can't get it running, but I have more time than money right now! Thanks for any help to figure this out. What is the next step? live2fish )><(())*> P.S. 150,000 miles, bought with 135,000 about a year ago.

I am a Subaru Wagon enthusiast. My first was a 1986 wagon, 2000 - 2003, I learned how to replace front axles and head gaskets. My second was a 1993 Turbo Wagon, which unfortunately was totaled out a year later (it was my favorite car). My third was a trusty 1993 Legacy Wagon which I had until last year when it died - I had previously decided on a "no resuscitate order" for that one. I now drive a 2003 "Beaner" wagon and the thing I like best about it is that it has heated leather seats. It's a great car so far...until yesterday...but that is for another thread. live2fish )><(())*>