Dark Solar

Soooo...it's been while since I posted anything. Last issue with THE BEAST was an intermittant emissions problem. Thanks to various suggestions from the forum and a whole lotta checking, it got straightened out and back on the road. Now THE BEAST ('91 Loyale sw, 1.8L EA82) is feeling a might poorly again, only this time it's having problems with its hind legs. Luckily, it waited until I wasn't doing 70mph down the highway to go down. Without further ado, the damage. So there it is, folks. Hoping I can cure it with some fresh steel and a little quality-time with the welder. Any and all suggestions are welcome. Be it known forthewith that, should this malady prove terminal, there will be parts.

Once again, thank you, everyone who help out w/ advice. While none of the advice was the cure, all of it was instrumental in eliminating possibles. Turned out there was an intermittant short in the lead coming off the OxSensor that didn't show up until the the engine had run long enough to heat the whole compartment. Found it with a heat-gun, 2 safety pins and a continuity meter, yanked it out, threw a new meter/lead in and *presto-change-o* problem solved. So scratch that down and file it away somewhere under miscellaneous tests; just might come in real handy one day. Woohoo!!! It's alive!!! The beast lives!!!

5 short blinks are the vehicle model designation i.e. MT, 49 states and Canada.

a little supplemental info: checked the coolant temp sensor--it's good. and it's still having high idle issues.

Ok, first off--thanks to everyone who contributed advice on getting my old '91Loyale w/tbi back in working order. Now for the bad news/majorly irritating effing mystery: Nothing worked. First and foremost, I put the throttle stop screw back where the factory set it, replaced everything that was throwing a trouble code (egr solenoid, purge solenoid), checked MAF, bypass air valve, ox sensor, checked and cleaned the egr and replaced all the vacuum lines for good measure and put in new, properly gapped plugs and wires, pulled the distibutor cap for visual inspection of the contacts and rotor button (of course they were good), threw the meter on the CAS, checked the coil. Rechecked timing, all good there. Everything checks out. As far as the book is concerned the *%#@^& thing is in in perfect working order. And here's the really irritating part; I run it in the driveway and it doesn't miss or pop. I drive it around, everything is good and it runs smooth. I take it to the testing station and it's still running nice and smooth, no misses, no pops. As soon as the effing tech gets in the seat and closes the door to drive it into the bay it starts to pop. It FAILS in an epic fashion w/ the highest HC readings yet. I get it back home and of course the computer is throwing a code (1 long flash, 2 short flashes) telling me the starter switch (according to Haynes) is not working just right....soooooo....looks like I'm going to have to get back to work. Anyone know what/where the starter switch is? Am I correct in assuming that when the Haynes manual says 'starter' it really means 'ignition' switch? (This is a rhetorical question intended as a slam on Haynes. Unfortunately, subtle but cutting sarcasm doesn't translate very well into printed form.) If you have ideas on what's up, lay 'em on me. I've done everything short of having a long talk with the car while brandishing a 12-guage loaded with slugs.

Doh!!! Mass air flow sensor...(slaps forehead)...hadn't thought to check there. (slaps forehead again) (and again)

That's what I thought too at first...only trouble is that the emissions test sheet shows pcv is sound and egr is working within spec. Exhaust NOx levels are low so Ox sensor/catalytic team still performing. Currently tracking vac lines as I have time. Somebody get me off this effin' stump!! I don't like heights!!!

I have a '91 subaru Loyale that failed emissions testing today...for the second time. I love this car; it's been a workhorse that has never let me down until now. Here's the low-down on the problem: first time thru testing idle rpm was 1137/HC level 143. Checked idle air control valve--operating within factory spec. Soooo... put in new plugs and manually turned back the idle speed until it was reading right on the tach. Went back for second test-run...idle speed still high (900+) and HC level 207 (epic FAIL)... I've noticed that there's a little bit of fibrillation in the tach needle at idle which kind of points back to the idle air control valve but again, it's reading as good. I'm stumped. Any suggestions?