caspice

I drew up some plans and priced up the material, but never got around to actually fabbing it up. At this point (work/life/blah blah) I just put the stock bumper back on, minus the indicators.

Fair enough. burtonboarder84..if yours is still spinning along at temp and highway speeds then replace it or as Ivan said ditch it

eplacement; either from the JY or auto store.

Awesome job Rust! The originals had an illuminated Blue switch on the lower left dash labeled "Passing Lamp" The subaru design engineers out did themselves with that whole setup of the motorized emblem. +1 on the hardware cloth stoneguards on the grille and headlamps. What did you use for the brushbar and roof rack?

Just to clarify, are you looking for bushings at #15? You can try these: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W71581 Not a direct replacement, but you can squeeze them in. Just remember to grease them up first.

In lieu of applying temporary paint you can try this: Wash the car, let it dry, apply some Paint Cleaner then apply a good quality Wax. Do this by hand...elbow grease. Do not just go to the autowash and expect their waxing to do much of anything. A manual application, Wax on-Wax off, is required. It may not improve the appearance of the flakey clear coat, but it will provide protection and decrease the rate of paint degradation.

You can access the Chiltons manual online through some libraries. Inquire with your local branch to see if they proved this service. Also run a web search for Chiltons Online library and you should get results.

Great tip. How much gunk were you able to remove? How many miles does all that crud represent?

Neat mod. Whats the biggest load you've pulled with that setup? Would'nt be able to replicate on my wagon since my bumpers are rusted out.

Mark, Can you provide some details? What bits constitute your trailer hitch? How does it attach to the vehicle? How does it differ from a Curtis unit?

Hope that no one was hurt. If memory serves corrrectly it is a 10mm head, and there are three at the door, six across the top/under hood, two behind the bumper, three on the lower valence. Remove the marker lamp assembly since it attaches to tje fender with a screw on the side. The thin strip above the bumper under the head lights and grill has two bolts on each side; take the horns off. Easiest to start by removing the bumper. Before you go to the JY, take the parts of of your car first. That way you will have a better idea of what size and how many fasteners are holding everything together. You will also know how extensive the damage really is and what you need to get from the JY. Good luck.

ADMIN...can I get this thread moved to Member Rides? Thanx!

When was the carb last rebuilt? Indescriminately changing the fuel-air mixture ratio may compound your issue. Do you have a FSM? If it is randomly kicking into a high idle start with examining the electric choke. If it will not idle under 1200 rpm your problem may stem from clogged idle jets, bad fuel mixture, incorrect timing. Verify the PCV valve and hoses are clear. Years back picked up a great condition low mileage GL hatchback for a few bills because it wouldn't idle and could not be driven over twenty mph. The cause was a bad PCV and clogged breather hoses.

This just gives me an excuse to fix something else. If the weather holds next weekend, I will take the newused sunroof out, clean off the paint on the roof near the hole, and tack on a repair strip of sheet metal to decrease the width of the opening. A little mud, a little sanding, a little paint...no worries. That has to be more fun than pulling the transmission on my 04 Ranger to replace another crapped out slave cylinder.

Since it is a beautiful sunny day thought that I would change out my old leaky sunroof. Removed all the screws from the retaining ring and it came right out. No worries. Took the frame from the new used one, placed it on top of the roof and measured, and marked, and measured, and marked (you know where this going...right?) Pulled out my trust sheet metal nibbler and had at it; nice and neat. Trimmed up the headliner; again nice and neat. Put the new used frame halfs together, screws all in. And of course, doesn't quite work out the way planned. My old sunroof dropped in from the top and was held in place by a retaining ring screwed in from the bottom. The new used sunroof frame is designed so the the top half nests inside the bottom half then it is screwed together. Needless to say I am an idiot ;-), having transposed the width of the bottom frame for the top. Now that the hole is cut I can clearly see the the design of the newer frame is meant to pinch the roof sheetmetal for a tighter seal. This is one of those moments when instructions come in real handy, too bad my new used sunroof didn't come with any. Just one of those times when you do something so stupid you have to laugh at yourself and tell everyone. Cheers!

What size lift? What size tyres? Did you covert/drill the hubs or running 14" pugs? Did you biy or build the front bumper?

Skyrider...nice set up. Can you give some details about the roof bar and brush bar? Is the headlight treatment just painted on? Are both whips connected, and to what type of transceiver?

The sticker came from AeroStitch. The suicidal gas pump. I have a shirt with that logo and its been mistaken for an ipod. BRP....PBR me, Good call. I could have used one after the return ride. 12 hours and 463 miles in one go- mostly back roads.

Thanks for the link MR_loyale. The cost of those aprons is more than I paid for the car. Money is tight and every penny counts. It would be nice to have a clean resto, but that would require new fenders since the current ones have been hacked. This is not a candidate for restoration. I bought a rubber tub for $5 that should work once I decide on the best method to attach it to the fender. There are mounting tabs still on the inner. The outter tabs are gone since the fenders are hacked. The rear quarters are even worse. This is what I have to work with, so I will do the best I can with what's at hand. Trying to get this on the road by October (next truck payment will be due then). Most of the mechanical issues that I know of have been addressed. Now its onto fixing some rust holes and trying to prevent any new spots.

Do you have a FSM (Field Service Manual)? If not, download it from here or elsewhere on the web ASAP. With that mileage your EA82 is prime for seals and new timing belts- at a minimum, unless you have record that they have been replaced in last 30k miles. Since you already replaced the fuel filter and ignition bits you're off to a good start; look into a coil as well. Check under the hood on the drivers side, near the windshield/behind the shock tower and check the connectors. Make sure the single wire-green connectors are NOT plugged together. these connectors get plugged together to check engine timing. While you're looking,there is a vacuum hose connection at that same location. Check that these lines are connected and in good condition. You can follow these lines down underneath the starter - 4wd actuator Is this a 5spd manual or automatic? The ECU is located under the steering column - metal box about 6" x 2" x8". There is a LED view port on the front (side facing the passenger compartment). If the LED is flashing you need to check the Code read out for the related issue and recommended corrections (FSM) Use the search function-there are a lot of very knowledgeable folks on this site that have posted fixes for most typical issues with the EA82. There are several posts here related to the proper replacement of Timing belts and seals; even a few on You-Tube. Have fun and enjoy. Keep us updated on your progress.

This is the most recent photo I have of myself, and its from August 2012. Snapped this at the end of BRP down in Cherokee, NC. It was in the 50's earlier that morning and I am wearing all of my riding gear trying to stay warm.

I read the washer tank sticky about locating a tank from older model (EA71), but those are few and far between around here. There are two sets of bolt holes on the shock tower. I fabbed up a few brackets, and presto! The stock washer tank fits fairly well next to the air filter housing. The pump wiring reaches without modification. One of the PO's removed the wheel well skirts when they hacked up the fenders. This creates a small issue having the windshield washer tank and cold air inlet snorkle exposed to what ever the tires kick up. Having relocated the washer tank out of harms way, i was left with finding a way to keep unwanted items out of the snorkle. When I took it off, it was full of debris (dirt, rocks, leaves). I cut the top off of a plastic coffee container to make a protective cover. This will help to keep solid debris out of the inlet while not restricting air flow. I would still like to provide some level of protection to the air intake assembly and the wiring loom.

Here is a photo of the front on my 1990 that shows the horn location.

Tire pressure for a vehicle is determined by the vehicle manufacturer, not the tire manufacturer. The plate located in the drivers door jamb will provide proper tire inflation psi/kpA for the specified tire. There should be a min & max pressure base on vehicle load on the plate or in the owners manual. Inflating a tyre to max tire rated psi, if you are not running the equated max load, does not improve your fuel economy verses increase tyre wear. Tire composition will affect economy; a soft rubber has more rolling resistance compared to a hard rubber compound. Performance tires that provide more Grip will cost some fuel economy over a highway/all season tire that does not offer as much laterial stickiness. Moving up one or two tire sizes should not result in huge decreases in fuel economy. When you up the size by several sizes you run the risk to moving the applied final drive gear ratios out of the engines power 'band'. The issues you mentioned in engine performance would seem to be related to incorrect ignition timing or a bad spark plug/wire, distributor/rotor/coil. Have you checked the ECU for Codes? How bad is your measured fuel economy? How many miles on this EA82? Since you have only had the Loyale for two months, do you know the maintenance history, records?

pzs, Just noticed that you're from Alice in the Dead Heart. I used live on Purvis Crescent back in the 1970's Have any pics you can post of your subaru in action? Lets us know how it handles without the anti-sway bar.