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Yes, it makes that much difference. I did need to remove mine once because I actually snapped both end links. This was on a 2000 Legacy sedan....took it a little too far one day. The dealer had a replacement in stock so I drove over after taking the now three piece 'sway bar' off (of course the dealer said they had NEVER heard of that happening before). It handled like a boat and was not a fun highway drive. The car rocked and bounced all over the road. Subaru's Independent front suspension is greatly settled during road use by the 'sway bar', which is really an Anit-sway bar. Take off the Anti-sway bar and the vehicle at speed will sway and pitch like a boat in rough when you encounter any variation in the road. If you aren't planning to drive over 25mph/40kph and stick to off road situations, take it off and enjoy a little extra articulation. If you drive your subaru to the trails for some offroad fun then back home , you might want to leave it on. You can always just disconnect the end links temporarily for offroad.

That's awesome! Great design job. Has Fuji offered you a job yet? Give it the engine options of either the H6 or the diesel, backed up with the 6-speed manual dual-range driveline. .Make the bed long enough to be usable. I take a green one with brown interior. With whom do I place my order?

Quick test method.. Start the car, leave drivers door open and E brake engaged, transmission in Neutral, clutch depressed, listen. Release clutch...listen. If you hear a rattling sound, depress clutch again to check if the rattle stops. This will give you a quick indication of the condition of your release bearing. How many miles are on the car, trans, clutch?

Rack pad adjuster and lock nut on the diagram. The rack pad keeps a little tension on the rack itself to keep it in contact with the pinion gear Did you check for excess play in the steering universal joint. It was mentioned earlier but worth noting again, an unbalanced tire can cause vibrations at different speeds.

The LED will flash when the ignition is turned on, as long as there is an active Code and the unit has not been reset (disconnect the battery).

What are you driving? Year - Model? If its an EA82, you can 'read' the LED flashes on the ECU under the steering column. Slow flash means a 10 digit, quick flash means a 1 digit. i.e.: __ __ __ - - - - would equal Code 34 The Svc manual has a break down on codes or post it here for comment.

This was the colour of my bru when I got her. Not being much a 'red'car guy I wanted to tone the colour down abit. after a few samples I decided to use this colour - fossil. not too bad for using rattle-cans. still need to fix some rust spots around the wheel wells, add some new side moldings in the channel and apply bed liner from the channel down. pull the fenders off to paint them individually. Figured while I was in there, I'd look at relocating the windsheild washer tank. There are three (3) 10mm nuts that need to be removed to take the tank off. This is the most difficult to access, but can be removed without taking the airfilter housing off. Tank removed Trying to figure out the best way to relocate the cold-air intake. Any advice on homemade snorkles? Would like to have a good plan in place so I know where to cut into my freshly painted fender.

Just wanted to post this diagram for everyone's informational benefit.

If you want a 6 lug pattern on the cheap knock out two opposite lugs on your current hub, attach your new 6 lug rim using the two remaining lugs, mark the four new lug locations, drill new stud holes, install new lugs from your local auto parts store. Use the search function on this site for 6 lug conversion. There should be a sticky pinned under the MODS or OffRoad section. Check the length of the studs...do not need to be as long as the originals because they are going through a thinner section of drum on the rear. Do not over size the new stud holes otherwise your new studs will not seat correctly and may spin. Makes taking off lug nuts quite a chore. The correct drill bit size is noted in one of the stickys. If you have access to a drill press-use it. A lot easier and cleaner than a hand held drill. Take your time, drill slowly, use oil while drilling and let the drill do the work. Good luck. Post some before and after photos if you do it yourself.

steering.pdf I gleaned this from somewhere on the WWW; could have been from another post on this site. Regardless the PDF provides good information about the Subaru steering system.

The converted power rack to manual, by way of totally disassembling the rack and removing the center portioning seal assembly, should be packed with a quality grade grease. Install some grease zerks where some of the fluid lines connected on both the main rack housing and the worm gear housing; seal up the unused connectors. Adjust the tensioner bolt on the wormgear housing Once you have taken it apart for the coversion, any future maintenance needs can be performed relatively quickly since you will now know how it comes apart and goes back together. At this stage you will be dealing with grease, not pressurized ATF fluid. Sorry for the minor thread hi-jack.

After a closer examination of my current sunroof I noted that the glass sealing gasket and latch were no longer up to snuff. Found a newer (used) sunroof on CL for $50. It is a little longer than the current one. After I finish painting the top and remove the old one just need a few minor snips to get the new one in place. No more leaks.

The older subarus had a 'ratching' caliper piston. They do not reset with a C-clamp or standard caliper tool. Check the caliper surface for two slots (grooves) set 180 degree apart. Lisle makes a tool for these type of caliper pistons. Match the post with the slots, apply some pressure, and rotate clockwise. Congrats on picking up an awesome piece of history-enjoy!

The cap on top of my old Power Steering pump says ATF only. Mine was leaking from both the pump and the rack when I got my EA82. PO had been using power steering fluid which eats the seals. Good writeup on the conversion process. One point of clarification regarding coverting a power rack to manual is your inference to it being harder to steer. Do not confuse the difficulty of trying to turn a power rack when the car is not running. The reason a power rack is harder to turn when the car is off is due to the FLUID in the steering system that is not being circulated by the pump. When you convert a power rack to manual you drain all of the FLUID and remove the lines...open verse closed system. The converted rack is now operating under the same principle as your manual rack, but with quicker gearing. Slop in you steering can be caused by a number of issues. Also check for Tierod endplay, bad control arm bushings, bad steering rack mounting bushings, loose lug nuts, unbalanced tires, bad cv joint or half shaft. If it just a little loose in the steering response trying tightening the steering. There is an adjustment bolt on the pinion housing. Any other symptoms that are singling out a bad steering rack?

Everything you posted about the 'mechanics' work and explanation for the failure says that he is full of crap. Get your car out of there asap, make sure you have all the parts they took off. Tell him to go pound sand. Recind any payment. Spread the word to everyone to steer clear of those hacks. Do some basic diagnosis as others here have suggested. Let us know what you find. The results from the 'investigator' are to be expected from a bureaucrat- your tax dollars at work

we all pay too much, but worth it to keep them running. rough estimate for my 'investment' is about $2000 between the actual purchase and all the parts that'll go into it to make it good daily driver. This one isn't any different than my last three GL Hatchbacks. Pick them up for a few hundred bucks and spend 1-3x's the purchase price getting them back up to snuff. Compared to footing the monthly payment on my truck - I'd rather stick with a twenty - thirty year-old Bru!

I also considered buying a manual rack for my 90 loyale sw, but money is tight. I disassembled my existing power rack and converted to manual by removing the center shaft seal assembly. Took out all the lines and the leaky pump. Sealed up the connectors on the rack. Packed it with grease. Measured for new shorter belts. The cost was a few hours of time and new belts. The 4wd rack has quicker gearing than the fwd. If you do this remember that the retaining clip pulls out of the housing and is fed back in the same access port while turning the passenger side shaft retainer. When you pull it apart it'll make sense.

Thanks for the advice on bleeding out the brake lines. The HH is functional-tested yesterday. The sunroof is an after-market chop job, and is leaking between the glass and the seal. getting there. has a small lift installed. engine back in. the fork boot and timing bung are still available from your local Subaru dealer; surprisingly they are not expensive. had to find shorter belts after removing the power-steering pump. Replaced the rack bushings while I had it out - 25mm for a 1993 impreza. Added the switches for driving and fog lights (yet to be installed) The switches utilize an ignition selected power source to activate the relays. The relays in turn connect fused circuits feed directly from the battery. When i turn off the ignition, the relays will disconnect power from the battery to the lights. hard to see in the daylight. Sourced some dual element lamp sockets from the local parts store. A little trim here & there to fit the lens housing. Soldered the stock connectors to the new sockets, added dual element LED lamps. Still need to remove the fender flares and fix the rust. The rims are from a Toyota Tacoma-$50 for the set. Tires were used for one season-picked them up for $100. Antenna mount re-enforced on the inside of the gate. Cable runs beside the circuits for the rear brake lamp and washer. Dropped the headliner and ran the cable along the crease then down the front post behind the dash. Had to cut the original connectors off to get the cable in. Connects up to a signal strength metre installed in the bottom tray; then up to the Transceiver. Using the stock brackets and cover plate I will have both the transceiver and a Radio/CD/MP3 player. External transceiver speaker installed the driver side dash. Ran speaker circuits along with the antenna cable in the back. This is a Base model Wagon so it only came with speaker in the front doors. More to come soon.

I had similar issues trying to locate a usable bushing for my EA82. using a caliper I measured the existing bushing and sleeve trying to size up a replacement. Eventually after a few failed attempts i wound up using Leaf-spring bushings. Cost me $35 delivered (not including cash spent on the ones that didn't fit) for Whiteline #W71581 Rear Leaf Spring Bushings - Rear Eye They are a bit of a chore to install. but worked out better than the ones I tried to trim-to-fit.

Thanks for the complement. The work continues. So far, including the list at the top, I have: replaced one half shaft replaced PCV and hoses changed sway bar bushings changed tie-rod bushings changed all fluids (except brake fluid-its on the to do list) re-tapped the exhaust holes in the heads (1/2" threads) replaced the brakes replaced Radiator and heater hoses replaced belts for Water-pump, AC, and Alternator with new sizes due to deletion of Power Steering pump changed a few bad wheel studs secured a few loose wheel studs (6x5.5 bolt pattern) relocated the front turn-signals into the front marker lights (removed the front bumper-will be installing a custom unit) replaced Thermo flasher unit with an Electronic type Installed a few switches under the Rear-Defrost Switch for lights (relay isolated from the main wiring harness for power draw, but relay activation still requires the ignition to be on) Installed a 48" Firestik Antenna for my 10 Meter/CB band radio. Ran the cable through the channel in roof -have to drop the headliner-and mounted to the rear lift gate. installed a locking gas cap just to keep me petrol in my tank Still to do List: Fix a few rust holes (wheel wells) Give a paint job Remove the nasty wheel well extenders from the PO. replace the exhaust (fixed and patched, but snapped at the CAT when I put the engine back in) Fix the leaky sun-roof Order a 8"x3/8"x72" piece of 6061-T6 for the front bumper, build some brackets to fit the stock mounting locations. Install Auxiliary driving lights. Change brake fluid Finish installing my Transceiver (KC3AKA) Install roof rack Find a spare tire/wheel to match the other four (Toyota Tacoma Steel Rims with 205/65-15 Winter-Master Tires- it had 215/75-15 when i got it, but the rubbed too much in tight turns) Maybe tint the windows. i will have to post some pics on progress. Comments? Questions?

MilesFox-thanks for being the second set of eyes. You nailed it- I had the wires in the wrong order. A PO had written a firing order diagram on the coolant overflow bottle, and like an idiot I followed that order instead of the order in the book. Where's my Dunce Cap? Cheers!

I will double check the sequence. Wouldn't surprise me if I missed something simple. Kind of like asking where you left your glasses when they are on top of your noggin'

Picked up a 90 Loyale SW, 5spd, 4wd earlier this year for a few hundred bucks. Is has 198829 miles and was suffering from the TOD. I drove the car prior to purchase, but only up in to fourth due to the area. Everything worked and it ran just fine. Upon getting the bru home I proceeded to perform the following: Pulled the engine and replaced the front crank seal, rear crank seal, and cam seals. Re-installed the HLA's so that the oil inlet orifice was correctly oriented. Converted the power steering to manual and removed the pump and associated lines. Replaced the timing belts and tensioners; discarded the belt covers. Replaced the oil seal and mickey gasket. New water-pump, cap & rotor, plugs and wires, clutch assembly, EGR Solenoid, Purge Solenoid. Timing set at 20 degrees BTC. Idles +/- 700 rpm No Codes (cleared by replacing the two solenoids mentioned above) It starts and idles, though will backfire through the intake when depressing the accelerator. When engaged into gear, totally bogs down when the clutch is let out normally and will not go. If I gas it up in the rpms and dump the clutch, it burns rubber but only briefly and bogs down. i have checked the TPS; both for measured adjusted and electrically-okay I have measured the Air Valve and MAF and both are coming back in tolerance. What am I missing?