Commuter

... you might want to read the "changing a flat tire" section. I know in my 97 OB manual, the oh-so-very-important-bit about putting the fuse in the FWD holder to disable AWD when using the donut spare was buried at the tail end of this section. D'OH! I think I had the car for a couple of years before I knew of it! (My first AWD car btw. I think it was thru this board that I learned of it.) Commuter

Ditto with my 97 OB. I replaced the front passenger side half axle in Aug. The work was done by the dealer and it was a Subaru remanufactured shaft. Now I get a bit of vibration when sitting still at a stop (auto tranny). Weird. It is more noticable when the car is cold. I haven't gone back to the dealer. It is not a "bad" vibration, but more than it use to be. Enough to annoy me though. Frustrating. I too really have a problem understanding how it could be the half-shaft when the car is not in motion, but I have read of this issue several times over the years that I have been on Subaru message boards. Commuter

You can order just the cover for like 1/4 the price. I've done that. If you haven't worn thru to the foam undereath, it's fine. Up to you though. They use to have a heated, vibrating model that I wanted to get. I found out that they had discontinued it, but were planning to replace it. I don't know if they did. My commute is now down to 40 minutes a day, although I still do a couple 3 hours trips per week. Commuter

95 was the start of a new model run, right? So a height adjustable seat from a 95 to 99 should fit I would think. I've been using an Obus Forme back support for many years. Makes a world of difference. I commuted 3 hours a day for 13 years. They also have a seat bottom that you might want to check out. Commuter

Well... I wouldn't call the Outbacks "4x4's". You get VC center diff with the manuals (50/50 split) or a clutch pack center diff (90/10 split normal, up to 50/50) with the automatics. Note that this is for the 96 to 99 model years. (I think the 2000+ are the same, but you get into some different systems with the VDC etc.) These are full time systems. AWD, not 4WD. They cannot be disabled (short of the FWD mode on the automatics when you have to use the donut spare). There is no low range either. Just FYI. Commuter

Drat... Now you've got me wondering how my 97 OBW is after 6 years in S. Ontario. Hopefully the annual Rust Check is doing it's job. Commuter

If you have piston slap that goes away when the engine is warm, neither the dealer or Subaru of Canada are going to do anything for you. You may be handed the following "Shop Talk". Subaru Shop Talk No. 02-02-97 Engine noise. In 1997, Subaru engines (1.8, 2.2 and 2.5) are more fuel efficient, more powerful and have a flatter more usable torque curve than their predecessors. To achieve these seemingly opposite objectives, it was necessary to bring many improvements and modifications to the Subaru engine line up. Following are some of those improvements: 1. Mechanical valve lash adjuster (reduces friction) 2. Light weight pistons (reduces inertia) 3. Short skirt, Molybdenum coated pistons (reduces friction) 4. Increased compression ratio (improved power output) 5. Improved cylinder head design (improves cooling) 6. Inertia resonance induction system (improves breathing) The only drawback to these enhancements may be some engine noise after a cold start-up. This noise is a consequence of the engine improvements and is not a precursor to future engine problems. If a customer complains of cold engine knock, please reassure him/her that no permanent engine damage will occur. If the noise persists and is still clearly audible when the engine is warm, please consult your DASM. Please do not hesitate to contact your DASM if you should have any questions or comments. SUBARU CANADA, INC. --------------- You would have the Phase II engine, but it still pretty much applies. The general consensus on this board is that if it goes away when the engine warms up, it really won't do any harm. Other makes suffer from this as well. My ex's 99 Honda Odyssey with the 3.5L V6 engine developed piston slap as well before hitting 100k km. Oh well. Commuter

The late 90's 2.5L engines do have a problem with carbon build up that will cause the "starting off hesitation". Been there, done that. Twice even. It will be aggevated by a weak O2 sensor. I didn't think this was a problem with the 2.2's. The early 2.5's are known for having a rather rich fuel mapping that can lead to the carbon problem. I had a MotorVac treatment done on my car (cleans the fuel rails, fuel injectors and upper cylinders) and it solved the problem. Something to consider. If carbon is the issue and it is bad, the over the counter cleaners won't do the job. You could try the Seafoam. People rave about it. I've never used it personally. Commuter

Note: 1 mm (which is less than 2/32nds) of tread depth equals 1/4" on the circumference. 1 mm = 0.040" 1/32 = 0.031" Note - Conversions rounded slightly. Commuter

With an automatic, I don't think I'd be comfortable with 3/4" difference. Try calling performance shops, racing shops, places like that. You are not going to have much luck with tire shaving with run of the mill places. Put the FWD fuse in and you'll be fine. This disables the center clutch pack. No power is sent to the rear wheels at all this way. You could also slightly lower tire pressure in your new tire to reduce its rolling circumference. However, there are all the "cons" to running with low tire pressure. I'm not sure how much would be needed, but say, 5 psi lower would not be an issue to me. Bump up the other 3 a couple psi to create even more difference. But really, on the back with the fuse in, it won't matter. Your rear differential will work a bit, but nothing it shouldn't be able to handle. I went thru this same issue a few years back, however, the wear on my remaining 3 was so little, that I had 1/4" or less in difference. Once I determined that, I took the fuse out and things were fine. Good luck. Commuter

Same thing on my 97 OB some years ago. It wasn't "loose" like you are describing, but it wasn't as snug as I thought it should be. There was an obvious 'flat' on the OD of the ring. I searched for a replacement at Home Depot etc. Most were too heavy. It made it very hard to insert and remove the dipstick. I ended up buying it from the dealer. Very little $, just had to wait for it to come in. I replaced the ones on the other dipsticks while I was at it. Commuter

I'm guessing it is an automatic. You are lucky that she did this to just one side of the car, and not on one axle. The end result (assuming that the other side was at proper pressure) is that the front and rear differentials would have been working a bit, but the center clutch pack (or VC) would not have been. The center is the more sensitive part. You could change out your differential oil. There would have been some heat. Probably not enough to damage parts, but keep an eye on seals and watch for leaks. The oil might have been heat damaged though. Cheap insurance to change it out. Commuter

Just one other caution. I discovered a few years ago that my 97 OB with automatic has a sensor that they call "MAP", but it is not the one described above. My car uses a MAF for the air to the engine. The other sensor was listed as "Manifold/Atmospheric Pressure", or something like that. It is a small black little item mounted on the passenger strut tower. It has a vacuum line running to the throttle body. I was told that this sensor keeps tabs on the vacuum in the manifold and atmospheric pressure and that this is some sort of input to the automatic transmissions shift algorithm. I discovered that mine had gone faulty when I started to get an occasional CEL that came up with the EGR code. What do these 2 have to do with each other? Apparently, this "MAP" sensor has a secondary function in that it looks for a change in manifold vacuum when the EGR valve is opened. If it doesn't see it, an EGR failure code is set. In my case, the EGR was actually ok, but the sensor was failing. There was one other side effect from this failing sensor - slightly soft/delayed shifting. I was noticing this now and again. That problem disappeared once the sensor was replaced. Final note - e.x.p.e.n.s.i.v.e little sucker. I don't know if a code can be directly set by this sensor, or what that code/description would be. No idea on that one. FYI Commuter

I find it hard to believe that Subaru does not have a front bracket or mounting scheme of some sort. I'm not sure if it is mandatory (I think it is), but we have front plates in Ontario as well. Commuter

I'd have OEM rears for you from a 97 OB, but I couldn't get them out to you for probably a week. I'd let them go cheap. Commuter

I did see a picture some years ago of someone that put a first gen Outback front bumper on a (same gen) Legacy sedan. He had it painted up body color. It actually looked pretty decent. But on a GT... probably not so good. Commuter

I have a 97 OB as well. I replaced the struts with OEM units, which are made by KYB. You can get some good online prices. KYB also makes their own aftermarket strut for the Outback, but it is 10 to 15% stiffer than the OEM unit. So it is up to you if you want that. The only other make I found specifically for the Outback was by Gabriel. I haven't heard of anyone trying them, so I passed. Price was good though. Commuter

I've been using magnets on the oil filter for years. There are different styles. One that even goes inside. My latest approach has been about 8 small Neodynium (sp?) magnets (about 1/2" dia by 1/8" thick) placed around the filter and held on by a worm gear clamp. Total cost is minimal, and much less than what they want for "purpose built" oil filter magnets. It "does" work. I've cut open the filters. They trap particles that are too small for the filter. Putting the magnets on the filter is a particularly good spot because the oil is constantly circulating through it. Commuter

Hmmm ... too close to Odyssey... But I like! Commuter

In the early 2000's, there was a couple of years of "clutch shudder" if you are looking at manual. Subaru finally resolved after claiming 'no problem' for a time. 96-99 2.5L Phase I engines suffered from internal head gasket leaks, but if you get one that has been fixed in the past 3 years or so, it should be good. 2000-2002 2.5L Phase II engines suffered some external leaks. I'm aware of 96 and 97 4EAT's having the issue in the tail shaft area as previously mentioned. Apparently most of these gave out (torque bind) around 120 to 140k. I hit double that before it happened on my 97 OB, but it did happen. I "think" it was in 98 that they fixed the issue causing that. If you are looking at 96 to 2000ish, your safest bet would probably be a car with the 2.2L engine in it and a manual. This would cover various Impreza and Legacy models. Just don't expect a lot of acceleration if it's a Legacy wagon. Commuter

I'm surprised no one mentioned it. If you are wanting to use a stop leak product, why not buy the one that Subaru was forcing upon the early 2.5L Phase II engine owners? It's probably no different than anything else, but just an idea. Commuter

I put a Whiteline bar on my 97 OB. They make one specific for the OB. I think it is 22 mm. I was worried that it might be too much. (In hindsight, probably not.) So I bought the adjustable ones. We put it on and found out that I could only use the lowest setting. The suspension travels too far to use the middle and 'stiffest' hole setting. I contacted Whiteline and they told me that the bar is meant for the sedans and wagons, not the Outback. So... I had a bar that I could only use in one setting that is essentially the same as the original bar. I did a bit of checking and looking and measuring. I added a thick washer (eg, 3/8") under the sway bar mounting brackets. I was then able to use the middle hole. I'd need more yet to use the stiffest setting, and by then, the bar might be striking the exhaust or something. The middle setting does make a difference, but not too much. I could have gone with the single setting 22 mm bar and have been fine. I just had no way to know initially. Commuter PS - Highly recommend HairPin Racing Aluminum endlinks as well. Nice, inexpensive (comparatively) and never a squeak from them.

This came out in 2005. The hp got bumped up to 250. The original engine had 212 hp. AFAIK, the 3.0L H6 from 2001 to 2004 did not have these systems. Commuter

They are... in the H6 engine. Commuter

Yes, the cams are shifted (relative to the crank). However, that affects both the timing of when the valve opens and when it closes. The difference between those two times (which equals duration) is not affected. (It really would be better to express this in terms of degrees.) The opening and closing "difference" is purely a result of the cam profile. The mechanism in the cam sprocket does cause the valve to remain open later in the cycle (at higher rpms, as per the control logic), however, it means that the valve opens later as well. Duration to me means the time between open and closed, regardless of when. Or as you well put it, the time the valve spends off the seat. Timing means, when does it (it meaning valve opening) take place (relative to the 4 stroke cycle). AVCS can infinitely vary the valve timing over a prescribed range. (50 degrees of crank rotation as posted by others.) AVLS has only 2 positions, that of one cam profile, or the other. (Low lift below 2000 rpm, one or the other between 2000 and 4000 rpm, high lift over 4000 rpm, as posted by others.) Fun stuff. Commuter