Commuter

Well done Setright, but one little quibble... I agree with the definition, but what RallyKeith explained the first time was a system for affecting valve timing (AVCS in Subaru-speak). That is, when the valve opens relative to the pistons/crankshafts position. It is the cam profile that will affect duration (AVLS in Subaru-speak). Correct? I guess I should have just looked up some info as others have done. However, it seems that I surmised the operation of their AVLS pretty closely just from what I could see in the pic. Commuter

See my edited note above. The AVLS is on the H6 only (in 2005) it appears. Commuter

There are different ways they go about this. I'm not familiar with how Subaru is doing it, but I can make an educated guess from the pics in the brochure. I was up on Honda's VTEC when introduced. They had a second cam with 'half' a rocker on it that could be locked to the regular rockers at higher rpm. The valves would then follow the action of the second cam, which had higher lift and/or duration. The iVTEC (intelligent) I think was simply programming. The original versions kicked in at one set rpm. The iVTEC would kick in at various rpm depending upon conditions (sensors). I'm looking at the pic of the cams in the Subaru brochure. The cam appears segmented. The inner part is one profile, and the outer 2 parts another profile. The cam is directly acting on the valve via some sort of tappet (no rocker here). It appears that the tappet body follows the outer part of the cam, while (I'm guessing) a smaller diameter pin/cylinder in the center can be engaged and made to extend such that it would follow the inner cam profile. This is most likely done by allowing oil pressure into the unit. The tappet (as I'm calling it) would be much like the hydraulic lifters of old in the pushrod cars I imagine. Both the systems I've just talked about make use of 2 different cam profiles. Neither one varies the camshaft position itself in relation to the crankshaft. This is another approach as RallyKeith described. You need a mechanism between the camshaft sprocket and the camshaft itself to allow several degrees of motion. This affects valve timing. The cam itself affects valve lift and duration. Obviously, both can be combined. I have no idea if Subaru is using this feature. (See below.) The ultimate is to just get rid of the camshaft and just stick some sort of actuator (think solenoid) directly on the valve. Then it can open and close in a flash (no cam profile to be concerned with) and the timing and duration (and even the lift) can be infinitely controlled / varied by programming. I know some manufacturers were toying with this decades ago, but cost and reliability were an issue. I'm not sure where such efforts are at today. Edit - I was just reading the brochure a little further (it's a 2005) and it indicates that the 3.0 H6 engine has AVCS (Active Valve Control System) and AVLS (Active Valve Lift System). So, judging from the names, Subaru is using both methods in this engine. The 2.5L turbo mentions AVCS only, which makes sense. Valve lift doesn't matter as much when you have a turbo pushing the air in. Commuter

This is only happening since the car pooling started? Sounds like the tranny is sensing the extra load and holding the lower gear longer. It also shifts different when cold. I notice this on my 97 OB in the winter mostly. It takes longer for the Torque Converter lock up to kick in. That sort of thing. For the long downhill, ok. (Newer transmissions will even do this automatically.) As for when coming to a stop, I know some people do this, but I personally don't agree with it. Brakes are "meant" to slow the car down. The drivetrain is meant to accelerate and to keep the car going at at a constant velocity. Engine powering the wheels thru the transmission. It is not designed for a lot of reverse torque. (Wheels trying to power the engine.) Transmission repairs are a lot more than pads and occasional rotors. Just my 2 cents. I suspect your transmission is working as intended. Try making the run without the extra passengers. See if it acts differently (same as previously?). Commuter

I own a 97 OB. HG done over 3 years ago. Still holding. 280k miles now and the transmission shifts the same as ever. I've heard of very few transmission problems with this generation, but lots of HG problems. And was that a new, refurbed, used, or what transmission? I'd go for the first one. I'm not crazy about leather seats. Doesn't really add (or subtract) value to me personally. Is the second car a Limited? If so, it will have a few more features. Commuter

Unless you can pick up just the CD player for cheap, the 6 Disc changer is the way to go. I put one in my 97 OB. Plugs right in. Works great. (Note, I'm not sure if the newer ones still plug right in. Others could tell you.) Commuter

Ok... link does not seem to be working. Do your own search if necessary. The title of the topic is: 99 Subaru Outback problems after 100,000 mile Commuter

See my post about this car (which I own) in the following thread. http://http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30553&highlight=outback Don't get thrown off. They are nice cars. If you know the weak points, you can be prepared and deal with them. There are many things that these cars "are", and some that they "aren't". Commuter

Emily, when did the "Phase II" 4EAT come into being? I have a 97 OB. Commuter

Make sure that the hose connecting the rad to the coolant expansion bottle is in good shape. No leaks. Any bubbles, or oily skum in the coolant expansion bottle? Commuter

Gotta love "parts". I've been running high wattage bulbs in my 97 OB for a number of years. The connector gradually succumbed to the heat. I should have changed them last year, but I didn't get to it. Last winter, I had to pop the hood and wiggle the connectors about every 2 days to re-establish connection so that my lights would work. I finally got around to changing them in the spring. After a bit of seaching, I found the right connector (it was not labeled as H4, but it fits) at Canadian Tire. Spliced the wiring and it's been good ever since. Commuter

Or are you asking about adjusting the e-brake handle? I don't know the specifics of the 01's. Typically, one has to pull up some plastic panels in the area of the handle in order to access a take up adjustment between the handle mechanism and the cable. Commuter

As far as contact between the piston and the valve... Last I knew, valves rotate during operation. The postion of the burnt / busted spot in the picture has no relevance AFAIK. Commuter

Just wondering... Has anyone tried a synthetic ATF? Mobil 1, Redline, whatever? I'd be curious if it made any difference. Commuter

I have a 97 OB. The head gaskets failed. I got the telltale bubbles (and resultant sludge) in the coolant expansion bottle. It was never so bad that it overflowed, but it did rise up to nearly full. I don't know how long the problem was happening in my car (several weeks I figure) when I found it. I discovered it when I checked the coolant one day (saw the sludge). I never saw the temperature gauge move off of it's normal position. And I was watching very closely at the time as there were a rash of reports of failures at the time. I was fortunate (if you can call it that) to catch it early. Over 3 years now and almost 200,000 km, the head gaskets are still holding. Commuter

First thing to try would be a stiffer rear sway bar IMO. You can go from there. Try to get an adjustable one if they have it. (eg Whiteline) Commuter.

A question. When this happens (stopped), if you touch the gas a hint to change the rpm (say by even 50 rpm), does the shaking go away? Sounds like it might be a resonance issue to me. I had this happen in my 97 OB after I put on a lightweight crank pulley. A while later (when engine work was being done), I upgraded to the liquid filled engine mounts. The different dampening characteristic of the new mounts was all it took to get rid of the shaking. Btw, when I did the "hint" of rpm change, the shaking would stop. Actually, I would describe mine as having been more of a rocking than shaking. Commuter

I don't have the gauge size handy, but just take one of the screws in with you and match it up. On every car, I've replaced the screws with stainless steel ones. Phillips pan head usually. Use a washer if need be, but typically not required. I'm assuming that the screw goes into a plastic grommet. If it is a machine thread screw, then you have to match the threads up. Commuter

I'm not much for surveys, but they do tell you "something". And I know that there are people that love to hate these things. Nevertheless, I found this one interesting, as it looks at the vehicles at the 3 year point. (One more often hears of the IQS, or Initial Quality Study which looks at the first 90 days.) So these were 2002 models. PP100 is Problems Per 100 vehicles. Nameplate Rankings Lexus - 139 PP100 Porsche - 149 PP100 Lincoln - 151 PP100 Buick - 163 PP100 Cadillac - 175 PP100 Infiniti - 178 PP100 Toyota - 194 PP100 Mercury - 195 PP100 Honda - 201 PP100 Acura - 203 PP100 BMW - 225 PP100 Ford - 231 PP100 Chevrolet - 232 PP100 Chrysler - 235 PP100 Industry Average: 237 PP100 Saturn - 240 PP100 Oldsmobile - 242 PP100 GMC - 245 PP100 Pontiac - 245 PP100 Mazda - 252 PP100 Hyundai - 260 PP100 Subaru - 260 PP100 Volvo - 268 PP100 Jaguar - 268 PP100 Dodge - 273 PP100 Nissan - 275 PP100 Mitsubishi - 278 PP100 Mercedes-Benz - 283 PP100 Saab - 286 PP100 Jeep - 289 PP100 Suzuki - 292 PP100 Audi - 312 PP100 Daewoo - 318 PP100 Isuzu - 331 PP100 Volkswagen - 335 PP100 Mini - 383 PP100 Land Rover - 395 PP100 Kia - 397 PP100 Some interesting results about two-thirds of the way down (or more). Look where VW and Audi ended up. And Mercedes-Benz. And Nissan. Just some of the makes that caught my eye. I suspect this post will spark some dialog. Commuter

Not the info you are looking for, but I am not a fan of the "flushes" when it comes to auto trannies. I'm a proponent of the drain and refill 2 or 3 times to change out the ATF. Why? Flushes don't get 100% of the fluid changed out anyway; some don't even come close. Some flushes may be no better than a drain and fill. Flushing can dislodge dirt and varnish and gum etc, particularly if they use some kind of cleaner fluid first. This gets into the valve body and can cause trouble big time. I've heard that Chrysler has many records on file of auto tranny failures within 200 miles after the owner did a tranny flush service. Flushing costs money with questionable benefit. The DIY versions of tranny flush are risky IMO. The use of the cooling lines (which may not work if the fluid has to up to a certain temp before the ATF flows thru those lines); hooking up lines to the pump with the pan off, etc.; trying to add fluid at the same rate it is pouring out a line or a drain. Makes me shudder. I know with my car, you can drain about 4L of 10L total. One change, and you have 60% old fluid left. 2 changes, and you have 36% old fluid left. 3 changes, and you have 22% old fluid left. That takes 12L. No more than the flush methods use. And you know where you stand. You can DIY. Yes, it takes a bit of time. (I'm assuming some driving / running in between to thoroughly mix fluids.) Just my 2 cents. Commuter

More reliable. The 2.2L has the "bulletproof" reputation. The 2.5L obviously, does not. And it pretty much bolts right in. I'm no speed demon or hp freak, but I really would not want to lose any hp with the OB. I keep wishing it had about 20 more. I don't know if I could give up 15 or 20 by going to the 2.2L. These cars are at the slow end within their peers. I guess it all depends on the driving that you do and your expectations. Commuter

One can never quite know when is the right time to let a car "go". I have a 97 OB. My head gaskets went at 160k miles 3+ years ago. I'm now at 279k miles. The body is solid (I use Rust Check yearly). The interior is fine. The transmission has held up. I did have to change the clutch pack last year due to torque bind, but this was at twice the milage it usually happens. What transmission work did you have done? Other than the issue with my engine, I've had one little expensive sensor go, I've had a couple of rear wheel bearings go, had to have the seals changed on the rear diff, changed rear struts last year and that has been about it. The rest has been routine stuff. Cars usually need some "major, once in the life of the car" stuff around the 7 or 8 year mark. You are at that point (maybe a little early). If you like the car, and it is sound otherwise, I'd say put the money into it and keep it for a few more years. $1500 doesn't go far towards new car payments. Years ago, I had an 85 Civic that I put many many miles on. I did a bunch of work around the 8-10 year mark. (Rad, 4 struts, etc.). For the next 4 years, I didn't do anything except normal maintenance. It was definitely worth it. As long as you don't mind driving a slightly older car. Commuter

From the 303 website. WHY ARE TIRES BLACK? The sidewalls of tires which are parked for extended periods dry, check and split. Annually, tire "dry-rot" is a multimillion dollar problem for RVers, trailer boaters and owners of classic cars. This engineering memorandum is a scientific examination of the whys of the process and explains in detail how 303 Protectant™ is an answer to the tire dry-rot problem. Tire manufacturers blend into the tire polymer certain chemical ingredients which inhibit damage from ozone and ultraviolet light, the main environmental degradents of tires and all other types of synthetic and natural rubbers. Ozone is an odorless gas, but is commonly thought of as the "electric train smell". Though more severe in cities and manufacturing centers, ozone is part of the are we breathe everywhere on earth,. Hastened by the hazardous effects of UV light, ozone eventually causes rubber to dry and become brittle no matter the locale. ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT: The need to protect rubber against UV damage is why tires are black. For this purpose a common type of UV stabilizer called a ‘competitive absorber’ is used. Competitive absorbers work by capturing & absorbing harmful UV light wave energy (instead of the adjacent molecule of tire polymer. . .that’s why it’s called ‘competitive’). Competitive absorbers have the added ability to convert harmful UV light wave energy into heat so it can dissipate harmlessly. ALL tire manufacturers use the same competitive absorber, carbon black. . .an extremely inexpensive compound. All other UV stabilizers are prohibitively expensive. This is why tires are black and why tires are not available in designer colors. All UV stabilizers are sacrificial, meaning they are gradually “used up” to where they can no longer protect against UV damage. As carbon black loses the ability to do its job, it turns gray. This is why rubber grays as it ages. OZONE: Tire manufacturers use waxes to protect against ozone. When tires are in use (regularly running up and down the road for example) they flex. Flexing causes the protective waxes to migrate to the surface where they form a physical barrier between the air (ozone and oxygen) and the tire polymer. This process ...the waxes migrating to the surface of the tire during flexing...is called “blooming”. When tires are not regularly used (a parked RV, boat trailer or classic car, etc.), blooming does not occur. Ozone begins eating away the protective wax and before long reaches the tire polymer. Often by this time, the surface carbon black has lost its ability to protect against UV. With UV light and ozone working in concert, degradation starts. The tire dries, checks and will eventually crack. OTHER DEGRADANTS: Petrochemicals and silicone oils can remove the protective waxes and increase the rate of degradation. Common automotive “protectants” and “tire dressings” are typically devoid of UV stabilizers of any type and contain petrochemicals and/or silicone oils which dissolve away the protective waxes and can actually aggress the sidewall. In the event of warranty sidewall failure, one of the first things tire manufacturers look for is evidence of the use of these types of products. When found, this is often cause for not warranting the sidewall failure. 303 FOR TIRES: 303 contains no petrochemicals or silicone oils and does not remove the protective waxes. 303 is actually absorbed into tires, delivering its unique set of powerful UV stabilizers into the tire polymer, supplementing and surpassing the UV protective action of the carbon black, and leaving a long-lasting, flexible protective finish that is water repellent, detergent resistant and will not attract dust. Ozone must eat through the 303 before it can get to the wax. 303 is an extremely effective anti-oxidant and anti-ozonant. 303 is the longest lasting, most powerful protective and beautifying treatment for tires and all other synthetic and natural rubber. TIPS FOR TIRES: 303 treated tires have the rich, waxy, almost vinyl-like, dark black look of new rubber. 303 tires look and feel like brand new, not greasy-new. FOR MAXIMUM TIRE BEAUTY: Spray 303 directly on a clean & dry tire until the sidewall is thoroughly wet with 303. Without touching the rubber, easily wipe away any 303 overspray from the rim. Do each tire the same way. After 10 - 20 minutes, wipe around each tire once or twice with a dry rag to pick up any unabsorbed 303. Your tires will have the look and feel of fresh new rubber. FIRST TIME USE: On sidewalls that are excessively dried out, two treatments may be necessary the first time. To note: A) The regular use of 303 can entirely prevent the UV and ozone damage associated with parked tires. Reapply 303 every 20-30 days. 303 is 100% safe for all types of wheels, all alloys. Wheels regularly treated with 303 repel water, road grime and brake dust and clean up far easier than untreated wheels. ------------------- I used it once on tires (winter tires for storage). I go thru tires fast enough that it doesn't really matter to me. The stuff is great on the interior vinyl and window weatherstripping. And we can get it at Canadian Tire now in Canada! Commuter

I've replaced rotors a couple of times. About 4 or 5 yrs ago, there was the OEM rotors, then there was the Six Star (Subaru of Canada) brand OEM rotors. They were a bit less, but not a lot. Maybe 20% as I recall. The dealer warned me away from them as he said they had a lot of squealing noise complaints. I did not look for aftermarket. Last year, I was in need of rotors and pads at all corners. The dealer suggested the Six Star rotors. I relayed the above. He indicated that the problems had been resolved and would not hesitate to put the Six Star brand on my car. I went with his suggestion. No noise. Fine so far. I don't recall the price difference off hand (but I think it had grown from the 20% figure a few years earlier). I think that it was under $100 Cdn. With a little bickering, the dealer should give you 10 to 15% off. This is still a lot more than the inexpensive ones you mention. If you can verify that shops use them without issue, I'd say go for it. I'd really try to get a testimonial or 2. Are you doing the work yourself? I just had to replace the front rotors on my ex's 99 Odyssey. The aftermarket ones (that the dealer suggested!) were just over half the price of the OEM ones. About $60 each. I don't know if this helps you frag. You may want to check into the Six Star rotors. As for the "recycled steel", that really means next to nothing. There is a lot of 'used' (both from 'consumer/industrial' product and 'steel making trimmings') that goes into modern steel. What matters is the final composition, the level of impurities, the casting quality, machining quality, etc. You are probably right though, in that it is from some Asian country. More steel is produced today in Asia and old USSR than is made in North America. Commuter

It's buried at the tail end of the tire changing section. At least that was where I found it in the manual of my 97 OB. I "did" read my manual, but skimmed over the tire changing, since I'm pretty proficient at doing that. D'OH! You'd think something so important would be hi-lited more. In fact, there should be a placard right with, or on, the spare donut tire in my opinion. I didn't know about that FWD fuse (I had seen the fuse holder under the hood and wondered what it was about) until I got on this message board. Two years after buying the car (used). Commuter