Commuter

From your original post: You were speaking of tread depth, right? That is my interpretation of your post. Tread depth is a difference in radius, not diameter. Your formulas are correct. For those that don't mind mixed units... 1mm change in tread depth = 1/4" change in circumference. Just happens to work out nicely. As others have stated, and as I have stated in prior topics, I believe that Subaru is being conservative with the 1/4" circumference spec. What can you get away with? I don't know. And I don't plan to test it either, especially not with my automatic. A few years ago, a guy on old i-club board reported that his third VC (manual tranny) was failing. The 2 prior ones had failed due to heat damage. He 'discovered' that the 2 new tires he'd bought (same brand/model/size apparently) were about 1.5" different in circumference than his 2 old tires. I don't recall how long it took for the damage to occur, but it did. So... It's only a sample size of one, but there is one "number" that exceeded the 'safe' territory for a VC equipped manual Subaru. Commuter

As The Dude pointed out, Subaru's spec is circumferance. You failed to multiply by 2pi (2 x 3.14 = 6.28). 1/32" tread depth variation and you are still ok (~0.2" on circumference). But 2/32" tread depth variation and one is over Subaru's spec. Reliably measuring the tread to this accuracy is difficult IMHO. I was faced with this exact situation a few years ago when I had a sidewall puncture on a fairly new tire. The wear was "around" 1 or 2 32nds of an inch. I ran the fuse until the weekend. I then jacked up the car and wrapped a tape measure around all 4 tires. The new tire was right at the 1/4" allowance. I pulled the fuse and did not experience any trouble. Commuter

The 2.5L DOHC Phase I engine is known for running rich. I don't think there is anything you can do to adjust, since it is all computer controlled these days. That is, short of getting into the programming. You might want to try changing the O2 sensor. As they age, they will cause the mixture to go even richer still. I noticed a difference after changing mine. It was not thowing any codes, but the dealer did say that it was working a little "slow". (Fewer cycles per minute than is the norm.) Commuter

I'm with 99obw here. If you think about how many quarts of gas you burn in 1200 miles (~160ish), then think of 1 quart of oil burning, it really is next to nothing going out the tailpipe. Worn valve guides can do this. Cause a sudden, significant increase in oil consumption with virtually no other symptoms. ---------- Ok, you posted at the same time as I. Were the valves worked on during the head gasket work? Commuter

I take it that it is a Legacy GT? Then it would be a Phase I. In North Americal the USA made Legacys got the Phase II engine in 2000. The Japanese Impreza platform vehicles got the Phase II a year earlier in 1999. See my posts in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5537&highlight=thrust+bearing and this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34608&page=2&pp=10&highlight=thrust+bearing for the differences. We really need a sticky on this. Commuter

Frag is right. Do try fluid changes first. Changing the clutch pack is not really a DIY job IMO. Search on other posts regarding extended use of the FWD fuse (not that you'll get a consistent opinion). The speed and distance for the donut spare is for both auto and manual (IIRC). That is basically a 'tire' thing. The manual uses a VC center differential, so it cannot be turned off. However, it is a bit more forgiving. The auto, you are suppose to put the fuse in as soon as you put the donut spare on the car. And the spare should go on the back only. I didn't know this when I got my car. I found out about from this site. I couldn't believe that such an important item was buried at the tail end of the tire changing section in the manual! I did go thru the manual, but I only skimmed that section. D'OH! One would think there should be a big warning plaque right with the spare tire. Commuter

If he didn't put the fuse in the FWD fuse holder under the hood, it is very likely that the center clutch pack has been damaged. It doesn't take much with these vehicles. Put the fuse in and see if your problem goes away. That will tell you. Expect about $1000 to fix. Commuter

Check to see if Whiteline has an adjustable model for your vehicle. If you still want to consider an aftermarket endlink, try the Hairpin Racing one. I was leary of all the aftermarket ones (for noise reasons) until I saw some good reviews on this one. I've had them on for ~3 years now. Not a peep out of them. Good pricing too. Commuter

They are for keeping the tailgate in alignment/position. Even pressure around the seal, that sort of thing. Tailgate bumper stops, or something like that is what they are called. They probably don't do a lot, but if you were to remove them, I'm betting that you would notice some squeaking and squawking from the tailgate. Perhaps an uneven fit too (seam gap). Mine are kinda rusty too, but the Rust Check annual sprayings seem to keep it in check. You might want to look at the latch plate (under the hatch latch, on the outside, holds the license plate bulbs too). It is probably all rusty. This is, assuming a 95-99 vehicle. If you have a 94 as your name suggests, then I don't know if the set up is similar or not. Commuter

I just very recently posted on this. Do a search (sorry, I'm out of time right at the moment) and it will give you the run down. You have the Phase I in a 98. The Phase II came along (in North America) in 99 in the Impreza platform and 2000 in the Legacy platform. Commuter

You are right on the seals. Budget for a timing belt job (there are articles if you want to do it yourself) and replacement of all the seals. I think your car does not call for it until 105k, but given the age and the oil, I'd do it now. The seals cost very little and the extra labour once you are in there for the timing belt is minimal. I've been having these seals changed with every timing belt. No drips yet in 440,000 km. If there is a seal leak at the rear of the engine, it can be a bit more of a problem. There is a seal plate (what's it called again exactly... ?) in the bell housing area that sometimes leaks. IIRC, you should have a metal plate in the 98 and will probably be fine. My 97 OB had a plastic one. It was one of those mid model changes. To fix this one, you have to separate the engine and transmission. A 98 Legacy GT would be a pretty sweet vehicle, but I would not pay a lot for it. There is work to be done (oil leaks) and there is the risk of head gasket failure. Get it for a song and go for it. The rest of these cars stand up pretty well from what I've gathered hanging around this message board for about 4 years now. Commuter

Not exactly words of wisdom, but I can relay some experience. 97 OB - Replaced headgaskets almost 3 years and 180,000 km ago. Still holding. (Note, block got replaced too, but that is another story IMHO.) If you are going to keep the car for some time, I'd strongly recommend looking at a rebuilt engine from CCR Inc. You get a 3 yr warranty. They know how to keep the head gaskets from failing again. They mitigate (eliminate?) the piston slap issue. Etc. You would save about $1000 going the 2.2 route over the 2.5L. Personally, I find these cars underpowered. They pull nicely, but acceleration sucks. I'm not a heavy foot person, and it seems that Subaru owners that buy these cars are quite tolerant of the given power. (See post above for example.) Personally, I wouldn't want to give up one little bit of hp in this vehicle. I keep hoping to find some not-to-expensive way to get 15 or 20 hp more out of mine! Good luck. Sorry to hear of your troubles. Commuter

A few years ago, there was quite a lengthy post on an aftermarket thermostat. The guy tested the aftermarket unit and a new OEM one in a pot of hot water and found them to act somewhat differently as they opened up. His troubles were not resolved with the aftermarket unit. When he put in the OEM unit, his problems went away. (Sorry, I don't recall just what his problems were, or what brand the aftermarket unit was.) More concerning though is that I've heard of aftermarket thermostats which will strike against the housing as they open, therefore, not opening fully. The OEM unit has the valve offset. It is not centered. The thermostat goes in in one position only. (There is a small notch for alignment.) I'm doubtful that the thermostat is your only problem however, given all your symptoms. But, I would highly recommend that you put an OEM unit in just to rule out potential issues with the Stant unit. Commuter

Biggest change was moving from DOHC to SOHC. They stiffened the bottom end. Added 2 (or more?) bolts to the bell housing. Liquid filled engine mounts. They moved the crank thrust bearing from the center to the end (rear I believe). Got rid of the EGR circuit. Did things to address the piston slap supposedly (with little to some success). Addressed the head gaskets. Seems they got rid of the internal leak, but the 99/2000 to 2002's had incidences of external leaks. They finally addressed that with the anti-freeze "conditioner". Various other changes based on the experience a guy had putting a Phase II engine into his 97 Legacy GT. Some stuff in the throttle body area (TPS or IAC, one of those), different sensor wheels for camshaft/crankshaft (one or the other or both, don't recall), things like that. HP remained 165. Torgue went from 162 to 166. More notably, the curves "fattened" in the mid-range. As much as 15 or 20% I believe. The main reason being less valve train losses due to the SOHC design. Commuter

Is the OEM not stainless on the 2000 Forester? My 97 OB hasn't been touched yet, 440,000 km. I've got a heat shield rattle to address right now, but that is it. Commuter

Sounds like a leak from the valve cover gasket. There is an o-ring shaped gasket that seals the valve cover around the spark plug well. If it leaks, you will get oil around the plug and on the wire. Not uncommon. Commuter

$4100? For that much, you can buy a CCR rebuilt engine and have it installed. 3 year warranty to boot. Commuter

On my 97 OB, the fog lights bolt directly into the bumper (shell). There is a threaded metal insert that screws up into the bumper itself. The fastener then screws into this (2 of them) to hold the foglight. Commuter

I'm talking of my specific model year. It doesn't mean that it applies your your model. Commuter

What year Legacy do you have? I added the RainTracker unit to my 97 OB. I was told by the dealer that it wasn't a "simple" upgrade to add OEM variable intermittent wipers. (The Limited model in my year has it.) Others have disagreed and have indicated that it is that simple, but I don't think I've ever seen anyone post saying they have actually done it. The stalk and module and ... something ... was going to be quite the expense. The RainTracker unit (there is a link at the bottom of the article) works beautifully. Took a bit to install, but worth it. Commuter

I see you are in Cali, so cold starts should not be an issue. That would be one reason for considering the 0W?? vs a 5W??. The 0W?? oil will flow a little quicker on start up, possibly reducing some long term wear, but I bet that you will notice more piston slap too. Which is worse? Hmmmm... I don't know. Given your climate, I'd personally stick to the 5W?? oil. Go for a 5W40 if you can get it. (I don't recall, does Mobil 1 come in this grade?) Commuter

Carbon buildup. I've been there... twice. A MotorVac treatment cured it the first time. (Note that if it is this bad, the off-the-shelf stuff will not be sufficient to cure it. You can try though. Maybe Seafoam would work.) Occasional premium gas or cleaner in the gas kept it in check for a few years. When it happened again, I suspected the O2 sensor was aggrevating things. Turned out I was right. It checked out ok, but was 'sluggish'. I changed it. The problem reduced considerably immediately, and gradually disappeared over the next couple of months. Just noticed the "fuel injectors cleaned". What exactly was done? Was this an upper engine treatment/cleaning too, or not? These engines are noted for running rich and having some carbon issues. I recall Emily (of CCR Inc) saying that these engines look like they came from the 70's and the days of carburators when they tear them down (re carbon). Commuter (97 OB)

Wow... someone dug this up! blitz... agreed... from my first post One further addendum to my first post. At the time, I "thought" I had oil in the anti-freeze. As I have since learned, the sludge (that I thought was engine oil) was most likely a bi-product of the combustion gases pushing thru the coolant. The testing of the oil and anti-freeze did not indicate any cross-mixing. 180,000 km now and 3 years since this all happened. The 'new' engine has developed some piston slap, but not bad. Knock wood! Commuter

The next time this happens, pull over, get out and look at the coolant expansion bottle. Any bubbles? Any sludge forming? Symptoms are classic of 2.5L Phase I headgasket failure. Commuter