Commuter

I'm going to side with 99obw for the moment. I have the same car. Take a good look on the underside of the ducting between the air filter and the torque box. There are some vacuum hoses in there (one quite large in diameter) that are nearly impossible to see from any angle. Trace every single one. It has been reported by many that Bosch plugs don't work well in Subarus. Some seem to have luck, but many have not. And if the gap is off, it could just aggrevate things. Commuter

Just a wild guess... How old is the battery? Is the charging system up to snuff? Commuter

Not to sound glib, but "it" (comprehensive and knowledgeable guideline) will never happen. There are almost as many approaches as there will be responses. :-\ I agree with 99obw's approach. Change it frequently for the first 5 to 10k miles. If you want to use synthetic, that's up to you. I personally perfer synthetics and I think just about every 'fluid' in my car now is synthetic. Engines don't have the lengthy wear in period they once did, so you can switch to synthetic fairly quickly IMO. Use a quality oil, and a quality filter, change according to your driving conditions. (Frequent oil changes are good, but they also consume resources, put a load on the environment, etc. A balance needs to be struck.) In the end, 'you' have to be comfortable with your maintenance regime. Commuter

Agreed. I'm not sure where you are coming from with this comment. My oil was tested. It was not contaminated. The mechanic pulled the block apart. The other bearings all looked good. None showed pitting, a sign of anti-freeze contamination I'm told. I think I just got unlucky, and the head gasket failure and the bottom end failure happened to conicide. As I indicated in my tale of woe, I was able to produce some evidence to suggest that the bearing had been slowly failing for some time. Commuter

When was the last time you had an alignment? I have a 97 OB with 400k kms on it. I haven't had to replace any suspension parts yet (except for rear struts). Commuter

Well... With the introduction of the 2000 model of Legacys, Subaru positioned the "Outback" as a model unto itself. It was no longer "Legacy Outback" as my 97 says, right on the tailgate. Granted, they use the 'Legacy' platform, but... they marketed it as it's own model. (I'm not sure how they treated the Impreza based OBS... I think it was thrown under the "Outback" model heading.) Can anyone tell me - Are the 2005 models (Legacys and Outbacks) still using the same platform? Or have they 'diverged' them? To any extent? Just wondering. FWIW, I recall years ago ... There was the Toyota Corolla. Then there was a Corolla Celica model (trim level, whatever you want to call it). Then the Celica became it's own model (with it's own platform at some point). Then there was a Celica Supra. (Catching the trend?). Then there was the Supra. And so it goes. It's getting even more challenging to follow this stuff. Companies are developing "world" platforms. What were once very different 'makes' are now (or shortly will be) built off the same platform. It's all about economy and efficiency. We've got the Vibe/Matrix for example. The Saabaru (Saab 92X) that has been discussed here. Etc. Keeps things interesting, that is for sure. Commuter

Again, check http://www.cars101.com for info. If I'm not mistaken, the base engine in the late 90's was the 2.2. The 2.5L engine became available around 97 (?) with the RS model. (I'm strickly talking the Impreza platform when I say that.) I believe the 2.2L was still available on the lower model Imprezas until the model change in 2002. With the new body style and the introduction of the WRX in 2002, the 2.2L engine was dropped. Commuter

Go to http://www.cars101.com for full info. There is the "Outback", built on the Legacy platform. There is the "Outback Sport", built on the Impreza platform. At least this was the case for the late 90's and early 2000's. Are they currently continuing with this? I'd have to look myself. Commuter

I have no personal experience, but I've heard a lot of good things about Redline oils. You might want to check into their products if you are looking for a top line synthetic. It seems that it can be a bit tricky to figure out exactly what grade of their products is appropriate for your vehicle, so it is probably best to contact them directly. Commuter

As 99obw said, we really need to know what the code is. I have a 97 OB (same engine). I've been dealing with a P0400 (EGR malfunction) for some time now. (One part changed, but it seems the solenoid is gone too.) For the price of one or two dealer checks, you could buy a code reader. Perhaps someone is in your area who could read the code for you. Given the age and milage, the EGR malfunction might be the problem. Several of us have encountered it around the same time period. And... was it the 98's, or 99's that had the film style MAF that was such a problem? That would show up as a drivability issue though. The EGR doesn't really have any impact (other than emissions). Commuter

A few further thoughts. If you are looking at the 96 to 99 Outbacks, the 99 will be the best of the lot. They did make some improvements along the way. If you can find a Limited, you will also get a few features that we tend to take for granted these days (eg variable intermittent wipers for one). 67k miles is not that much, but you are at a point (more in time than milage) where the car will need some attention. Things like battery, maybe an alternator, belts, hoses, spark plug wires, wheel bearing, maybe O2 sensor, some other sensors, etc. The timing belt is only due at 105k, but you may find yourself in there ahead of time due to leaking front crank and cam seals. The TB is a fairly expensive service. And if it was me, I'd be changing ALL fluids (transmission, power steering, brake, coolant, differential) as a precaution. This has hopefully been done once on the car already. Try to get service records if you can. Eg - if the seals were changed recently, you should be good for a while. Headgaskets... The Achilles heel. Just be aware and use it to bring the price down. Recognize that you might go 2 or 3 years (or forever) without this expense ($1200 to $1500 typical), or only 2 or 3 months or weeks. It IS a gamble. Just my personal opinion, but I'd say there is a 1 in 5 chance that this will happen before 100k. Greater chance if the anti-freeze has never been changed. If you know what you are getting into, it's really not that bad. I'd probably jump on a 99 OB for the right price, now that I've lived with a 97 OB for 5+ years. Commuter

You have a few choices. The old regular 'green' ethylene glycol. Probaby what you have now. It's fine, but 'older' technology by today's standards (IMHO). There is the "pet friendly" propylene glycol. Almost the same stuff, just based on a different molecule. Just a hint poorer in terms of heat transfer properties, etc. You will find pros and cons on the extended life coolants. This is still ethylene glycol based. To my knowledge, the "additive" (organic in nature if I'm not mistaken) is considerably better than the 'stuff' they use in the regular anti-freeze. If you are going to use it, it is imperative that you fully flush out all the old stuff first. As little as 10% remaining in the system can cause a problem. People have reported sludge etc after switching to extended life coolant and then badmouthed the coolant as a result. In fact, they probably didn't flush the system thoroughly. I switched a few years ago on my 97 OB and have not had an issue. I don't know the coolant capacity of your vehicle, but with mine, it is about 6 liters or so. 2 liters remain in the block and heater core! If you flush the system 2 or 3 times with distilled water (until it comes out clear), you should have minimal residual old anti-freeze left. Then you can add about 3 or 3.5 liters of 100% anti-freeze (whatever 50% or even 60% amounts to), then top off with distilled water. Personally, I'd suggest the Texaco Havoline brand. Some of the other brands barely use enough additive to make the spec. (I've even heard of some not meeting GM's Dex-Cool spec, which is supposedly marginal to begin with.) And I would change it after 2 or 3 years. Going 5 is pushing your luck. If the car is still going. Just my 2 cents. Commuter

What oil are you using? If the noise is returning at a certain point in the oil's life, it sounds to me like it has 'degraded' to a point where the tapping becomes apparent again. Perhaps a slightly better (or even just different) oil would do the trick. Commuter

You can read what I had to say on the 96-99 Outbacks in http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16588&highlight=outback this thread. One more thing. The center clutch pack (automatics) tend to fail somewhere north of 100k miles on the 96 and 97's. Supposedly a change was made to address this on the 98's and 99's. Commuter

I think it was at least 2 years ago, but I recall a member recounting in several posts that he complained enough (Phase I engine I would think) that they finally did something for him. His work order indicated "countermeasure" pistons. He said the piston slap was gone after that. IIRC, there wasn't even much noise when cold. I don't know how many miles he put on the engine after that (I think it was a least a year since he'd had it done last I recall seeing a post). This was on the old ezboard, so you probably won't find any posts about it. I don't know that anyone ever quite figured out what countermeasure pistons were (CCR Inc could probably tell us). My best guess is that they just put in pistons with tighter / matched tolerances to the cylinders. *shrug* Just a guess. Commuter

If I did a little more searching, I could probably find the thread. That is, unless it was before the move onto this board and it disappeared off ezboard. Anyway... I have a 97 OB. I like it. It's been pretty good except for the engine. Here are the weak points of the late 90's Outbacks. Engine - Piston slap when cold. Not too much of an issue as long as it goes away when the engine warms up. Engine - Head gasket failures. Look for bubbles and sludge in the coolant overflow tank. Engine - leaks from the crank and cam seals. If you do timing belt, change them all. Center clutch pack (if auto). Seems to fail somewhere on the plus side of 100k miles. Mine is going now (but I'm way over 200k). Front end "clunk" when turning into a parking lot (for example). One front wheel going over an irregularity. Nothing much to be done and doesn't seem to have any detrimental effect. Climate control lights that burn out, along with dash switch lights (easy fix) Gas gauges get a bit fussy over the years. Not difficult to fix (one way takes time, the other $) Rear wheel bearings sometimes go. Not too common, but happens. Rusting of plate that hatch handle attaches to. (easy fix) Probably a few more things if I thought more about it. As for the brakes... put on stainless steel braided brake lines. It helps a lot. Commuter

On my 97 OB, it is obscured from your line of vision by a few bundles of cables. It is right where you described. Almost straight down from the firewall. You have to get your head into just the right position to see it. The loop on the end is yellow I believe on my car. I suspect you are looking "too" low. Commuter

About a year ago, I was reading an article about direct fuel injection for gasoline engines. Granted, there are still spark plugs. But all else being equal, they said that an efficiency gain of 5-7% could be realized from this change alone. Commuter

I have the same car. My first auto as well. Overall, I find it ok. As you have noted though, it is "set" such that there is a fair 'pull' on the car when stopped at a light. One has to keep more than expected pressure on the brake pedal. You get use to it. The upside is a quicker response starting off. Not as much lag as other auto's. *shrug* 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Personally, I prefer synthetics. For what it costs and how long it stays in there, I think it's worth it. Commuter

Sounds like someone from my generation. At least there are still spark plug wires to follow to find the plugs. Maybe you'd better sit down... but they've done away with those too on some engines. Good luck. I've never done it myself, and don't plan to to be honest. Stick to NGK plugs. Platinums are recommended. And you won't have to change them again as soon as copper plugs. But up to you and what you like. Commuter

Another ditto. If you are having problems like this, one of the "Road Force" wheel/tire testing / balancing machines may show the problem. You didn't mention anything, but has the car ever had any front end damage? Even hitting a curb hard, or deep pothole? Another thought might be half-shafts that are not quite in balance. Rare, but has been known to happen. I do nearly all highway driving. With the Michelin X-Ones I first had, there was never an issue (3 yrs). Now I have Toyo 800 Ultras (2.5 yrs). I have had to constantly battle a 'slight' hiway vibration issue with them. I have seen for myself that the tire has a touch of out of roundness (all 4), and lateral run out (on 2). But it appears that I also have a touch of rotor / hub imbalance. A couple of times, I have been able to reduce the vibration by simply taking the tire off, rotating it 2 bolt holes (144 degrees) and putting it back on. If everything was truly in balance, doing this shouldn't make any difference. In my case, it just seems that I have a tire that is marginal for my vehicle and my "vibration tolerance" level. Under 60 mph, no problem. Perfectly fine. (Side note - I like the tire overall. It has met my expectations for the most part. Quite similar to the X-One in most respects. Just this slight vibration issue is the only real negative.) Good luck getting your problem sorted out. Commuter

Years ago, this started happening on my 88 Civic (trunk light). I would see the light come on, but as I raised the trunk lid, it would go off. I was convinced that it was a sensor, switch, contact, whatever. I finally found the problem. The wire following along the hinge (which has to flex) had broken inside the insulation. One electrical connector later, and all was good. I'm dubious that this is your problem, but just something else for you to check. Commuter

I don't know if your 94 would be the same, but here are some instructions for the 95-99 Legacy / Outback. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2513&highlight=hatch+latch Commuter

The 98 Forester has the Phase I DOHC engine. The 99 got the Phase II SOHC. The Legacy platform got the Phase II in 2000. (North America anyway.) Commuter

Classic Phase I head gasket failure symptoms. As mentioned, look for bubbles in the coolant expansion tank. The "oil" is a residue from exhaust gases pushing out thru the coolant. Commuter