Commuter

I've seen people question the accuracy of this list, but perhaps it will give you some indication that, like many things, the "roots" go back much further than you'd ever suspect. Synthetic oil history Commuter

Survey the tire sites and you'll see just about every pattern. For AWD, they usually suggest the Front to Back with no cross over as the first choice. However, I've seen the FWD pattern suggested (rears cross onto fronts, fronts straight back) since many AWD systems these days are more FWD than anything. (Those "on demand" systems.) I have also seen the "X" pattern suggested. The latter 2 will reverse tire rotation direction, and give you the most even wear possible. (I'm assuming non-unidirectional tires here.) I've done all of these with my current tires. They have a slight tendency to feather, so I have to get them over to the other side to counter it. I've even gone so far as to have the tires swapped side to side once. You'll get various opinions. Do what you are comfortable with. Look up the tire site of the manufacturer of tire that you are running. See what they say. Commuter

Unless you have a very rare beast, you will have a Phase I DOHC engine. The SOHC engine was not put in the Legacy's until the 2000 model year. The difference is obvious if you have seen both engines. The DOHC has larger front engine covers with 2 circular 'marks' per side (ends of camshafts). Also, since you've been at the spark plugs just recently - The DOHC's spark plugs go in horizontally. The SOHC's plugs are on a slight angle from above. Commuter

I may be able to help. I have a 97 auto OB. I found out earlier this year that I do indeed have a "MAP" sensor. However, it is not for the air-fuel ratios. I do have a hot wire MAF for that. On my car, it was a tiny black cube with a couple of mounting hole ears that is mounted on the passenger side strut tower. It has 3 wires going to it, and a couple of vacuum hoses. It senses manifold vacuum and is an input to the TCU's shift algorithms. I don't know just where you might find it on a 94, but I suspect the same general area. I was getting a PO400 code (EGR malfunction). It turned out to be this sensor. This sensor looks for a change in manifold vacuum when the EGR valve is opened. (A secondary function I was told.) Interestingly, I had noticed that my shifts were a little "off". Bit slow, hesitant, almost like a tiny bit of slipping. After the sensor was changed, the shifting returned to normal. And the EGR code went away. The little sucker was expensive. Over $400 Cdn. Someone told me about $240 US list. Commuter

If you are looking for some kind of cover up, you might want to consider a Magnetbra. I have one on my car. Different. Commuter

I don't think starters have changed that much over the years. This sort of action was usually an indication of a starter pinion problem. The pinion engages the ring gear by sliding along a short shaft. The shaft has a couple spiral groves in it. There are pin(s) thru the pinion that engage these grooves. The turning of the shaft by the starter motor causes the pinion to engage the ring gear. If the starter just spins, then something is worn or broken or sticking in this area. I don't know if this is a part that can be changed on it's own. (I think it can.) Given the age of the vehicle, you might run into the common solenoid contact issue as well. I'd probably just go for a rebuilt starter if the price is right. Commuter

Why do people always talk about the conductivity of the material? An earlier post pointed out that the spark plug wires are in the order of 7 to 15 kohms. That's "kilo", or 1000's of ohms! So what if the spark plug (all 3 inches of it) is 10 ohms or 100 ohms (or whatever the values are)? And what is the resistance of the air gap over which the spark must bridge? Is there something I don't understand here? Just wondering. Commuter

The Outback (96-99) is based on the Legacy platform. Since 2000, they have tried to distinguish the Outbacks from the Legacies by simply calling them "Outbacks", but they are still built on the same platform. Watch the Outback Sport. This is an Outback looking model, but built on the Imprezza platform. The Imprezza vehicles are a different platform (smaller). Both platforms have been using the same engine and transmissions for some time. There is a lot of interchangability there. Once you get into the remaining drivetrain and suspension however, it is a different story. I don't know if there is cross over on the braking systems or not. Probably. What Subaru did in 1996 was to essentially take the Legacy wagon and bump the roof up, change the bumpers, add a (non-functional) scoop to the hood, add 2 tone body coloring, and raise the suspension (raised and longer travel), use only the larger wheels and brakes, use only the 2.5L engine, and give it 'mild' off-road capability. Then they called it an Outback and hired Crocadile Dundee (Paul Hogan) for their ad campaign. First (yeah, debatable I'm sure) cross over vehicle. An SUW (Sport Utility Wagon). I have a 97. I like the character of the vehicle. Don't expect it to ever be a performance vehicle unless you are willing to spend several thousand dollars. It's heavy. The engine pulls well, but the car is not speedy. The AWD is nice, but gas mileage is only so-so. The ride is ok, but firm. The extra ground clearance does help in the winter. Earlier models were a bit sparse on features (IMHO, I think Subaru did this to offset some of the AWD costs). They have a few weak spots. The most significant one being head gaskets. They are very good all around vehicles though. In the current generation, it looks to me like they designed the Outback first, then stripped it down to make the Legacy Wagon. The Legacy looks top heavy to me, with the bumped up roof and the smaller tires and lowered stance. The Outback went a little nuts with the cladding. However, there is the 3.0L H6 engine now... for a price. You do have to watch things with the engine. Subaru made changes almost every year with these things. For example, the 1999's have a film style MAF sensor instead of the prior hot wire style. With 2000, they went over to MAP sensors (I think... someone verify please). So if you are looking to do some sort of cold air intake or the like, you need to know exactly what you have. That's just an example. Commuter

I think this Subaru (Panasonic) unit came out with the WRX's. It was also in a some of the Foresters. It's the 6 disc changer / radio / tape unit that so many guys remove. (I don't know if they are still supplying it or have moved onto some other model...see Edit below.) It does NOT have a clock. These vehicles have a clock in the dash instrument cluster, so they removed it from the radio. I put one in my 97 OB. I then bought an LED clock (numbers about 3/4" high) and stuck it on my dash just above the 4 way flasher button. Canadian Tire Corp in Canada has all sorts of makes and models. I'm sure that Autozone and Pep Boys etc must have a lot to chose from. Surely, there must be some models that are lighted. For me, there is usually enough ambient light from street lights etc that I can make it out. If not, I just hit the map light for a second. As discussed, I'm sure you could mount something in the cubby bin if you really wanted to. Commuter Edit - Ok... should have clicked on the link first. It's now a P131 unit. I have no idea if they have a clock or not. Just call a Subaru dealer (or 2 or 3...).

I too have read of several Subaru owners that tried the Bosch plugs (+4's most notably) and they just didn't "work well" in the engine. Some seem to have luck with them, but most don't. Some time ago, I read that the 4 ground plugs end up blocking the development of the flame front. That does make some sense to me. A couple of years ago, I decided to try the TorqueMaster plugs. The web site is rather thin. The place seems to be pretty much a "ma and pa" operation. But the technology is interesting, even patented. It's a pretty conventional plug, but with a wide gap and a full surround ground. Note that the ground is to the "side" of the center plug, not on axis. You can read about it, but in brief, the spark comes off the 'side' of the center electrode, across a plasma field on the surface of the ceramic and then jumps to the ground. Once a spark forms, the resistance increases, which causes the spark to 'move', hence spinning and creating a sheet, or disk of spark exposed to the air-gas mixture. (This "increasing resistance, spark moving" aspect is the reason for V grooves and multiple ground plugs as well. The spark initiates in one spot, then reforms in another. You get mulitiple sparks for every 'single' spark.) Whatever. If you want to debate the technology, take it up with the inventor. What led me to this plug is that it is (was?) the only plug mentioned by name on Magnecor's web site. I got curious. Mine have been in for almost 100k km now. And they were in briefly before that for about 30k km. (Things got interrupted by my engine change.) I can't say I noticed any major difference. Perhaps a tiny bit better "zip". They certainly haven't caused any misses or that as the mechanic was concerned about when he saw the wide gap. My decision to try the plugs related more the nature of the Phase I DOHC engine to build up carbon. I thought this plug might help the situation. I don't know if it has, but it certainly hasn't hurt. And they are suppose to last a long long time. Up to 200k miles. Eventually, the center electrode will wear down to the ceramic. And no exotic materials either. Just stainless steel. So there you have it. Another twist on the venerable "spark plug". Commuter

I also have a 97 OB. Now with 368k km on it. Summer of 2002, my E-test did not look very good at all. Still passed, but well up in the range. Earlier this year, I started to struggle with "carbon" issues again. My usual tricks to keep that issue in check were no longer working. With various posts on here at the time about O2 sensors (positive results from changing), and simply recognizing the age and distance on the car, I wanted to change it. The dealer checked it. I didn't know, but I guess these things (the logic that is) operate in an "on-off" type mode. The ECU looks for a certain value and either starts to add gas or back off the gas. Constant servo action. The mechanic told me that they look for 15 to 17 cycles per minute. Mine was generating 13. So, a bit slow, but not outside of expectations. (I don't know what the voltage reading were. We didn't discuss that.) They usually don't touch the O2 sensor unless a CEL is tripped. On the other hand, Toyota apparently calls for it to be changed every 80k km or something like that I was told. The next time I was in, I had it changed. Subaru OEM unit. My gas mileage went back up about 1 mpg. My carbon problem improved significantly over the next few weeks. It has finally gone away it seems, but it took several months in total. Frag is right about the exhaust tip (other posts). Mine was looking black. Seems to be a bit more brownish now. So in short... Change it. If it hasn't been done at all, or it's been several years, I'd change it. The way the sensors age, it will cause the mixture to become richer. These cars already run on the rich side, so it really can't tolerate more. I'll be curious to see how my E-test looks the next time around. Commuter

I have the same car. When I got mine, there was a small hole in one lense. I didn't want to pay the price for a replacement, so I tried some silicone. That was 5 years ago and it's still holding. I also found some of those old stone guard 'grates' that you could get to go over headlights (back when) and attached those on top of the plastic protective grid. I know what you are talking about. I recall studying the unit. It does appear that one should be able to separate the housing from the lense. Whether it is actually meant to, I don't know. Whether you will be able to successfully without damaging something, I don't know either. I think you are into uncharted waters. Give it a try. What have you got to lose. Commuter

When my DOHC engine went, I looked at replacing it with a SOHC. I found one guy who had done it. It turned into quite a bit of work. He used his original ECU and wiring. There were differences in the throttle body (IAC I think?), the cam and crank sensor wheels, the power steering routing, and some other stuff I don't recall right now. And the SOHC does not have an EGR system, so every few days, he'd get a CEL that he'd have to reset. I don't know about the Forester (as it is a bit smaller and lighter), but I find the 2.5L engine to be a little marginal for my 97 OB. I know people have put in the 2.2L engines (per Emily at CCR). I'm sure I'd be disappointed in the performance. Yes, the SOHC has "fatter" hp and torque curves. There is a bit more output in the mid rev range. Commuter

I work in the heat treat industry. Thermal conductivity (Btu/lb-ft-F). This is the "speed" at which heat energy will travel thru the material. Specific heat (Btu/lb/F). This is the heat energy that the material can "store" within itself. Thermal conductivity values: Aluminum - 136 Mild steel - 26-38 Stainless steel (304, 430) - 8 (I would expect this to be representative of most 300 and 400 series stainless steels.) As you can see, Aluminum has a much higher heat conductivity than steel or stainless steel. What is missing here is the measure of how easy or difficult it is to get the heat "into" or "out of" the material. (There is another property that gets into this, but I'd have to spend more time looking it up, refreshing myself, etc.) There are the 3 modes of heat transfer that were discussed ealier - Convection, conduction, and radiation. Solid Aluminum is processed below radiation temperatures, so that is essentially out. Conduction requires "touching" a hot surface (eg, pot on stove element). Convection is the heat transfer from a fluid, usually hot air. Aluminum is typically heat treated by convection, and lots of it. It is more difficult to heat Aluminum than steel in this mode. It just doesn't take on the heat the same as steel. Conversely, it doesn't give up its heat the same either. I always have to warn new employees about the dangers of an Aluminum heat treat shop. One can walk by a bin of (say) 500F steel parts, and you will feel the heat being thrown off of it. You can walk by a bin of 500F Aluminum parts and never realize that they are hot. Until you mistakenly touch one that is! I mentioned the specific heat property for interest sake. It does not have any real bearing on this whole heat shield issue as far as I can see. For what it's worth, Aluminum stores about twice the heat energy as steel or stainless steel (0.24 vs 0.11 to 0.12). What grade of stainless does Subaru use in the exhaust system? I know that mid-grade 300 series has been used. More and more 409 is being used. The shields might be different again for all I know. Just curious. So far, my 97 OB has not suffered from rattling shields. However, there are a few strategically placed screws turned into the ends of shields around the Y pipe. I presume this was done before I got the car. I agree with keeping them in place if at all possible. I have used the metal strap worm gear clamps successfully in the past. Commuter

I know I have the full scoop on this somewhere. I'm working a bit from memory. And my infromation is about 1.5 years old as well. As I recall, there are "slight" differences. The Subaru OEM filter does not have an anti-drain back valve since this filter is vertically mounted on the engines. The O-ring was different too. The Subaru has a rounded contact surface and the 14460 has a square cross section gasket. The filter element looked to be identical (but there may have been a few more pleats in the one... can't remember). In other words, the Subaru Purolator looks to be essentially the Purolator filter made to a specific spec for Subaru. In my opinion, if you want a step up from either of these, buy the Purolator PureONE filter (PL14460). It employs smaller synthetic fibers in the filter media, which traps smaller particles. It has more pleats (surface area) as well. It's expensive, but you can get a good deal if you buy 6 or 12 (a case) at a time. Commuter

I know you say in a subsequent post that it is NOT tires as you have another pair and it does the same thing. Still... You might want to switch back to summer tires and see what happens. It might be endemic to your winter tires. Or have you had these tires on before without problem? How old are they? You also commented that the twitching "comes and goes". This sounds like a beat frequency occurring between the 2 tires. However, I'm a little stumped that you would notice it at such low speeds. Commuter

I can't offer you any advice really, but I'm curious as to what you had it sprayed with. I see you are in Canada. Typically, people go to Krown or Rust Check. There are also others though. I've had annual Rust Check sprayings on all my vehicles since the mid 80's. I bought my 97 OB at 2 yo and have been doing it annually. I've never had any electrical issues to date. In fact, the Rust Check oil is suppose to displace moisture and if anything, be good for electrical items. Hope you get it sorted out soon. Commuter

Layman's comment no. 2. Not to dispute my esteem Canadian colleague Frag, but I find soldering more difficult than crimping! :eh: It's many, many years ago that I messed around with soldering. I never did get the hang of it. As a Mechie dealing with electrical stuff, I find shoving a couple of wires into a connector and squeezing it to be rather simple. If sizing isn't quite right, you can strip a bit more wire and double some or all of it over. Just a little trick I picked up somewhere along the way. I give the wires a little tug and if they don't slip, good enough. If they do, well, tighten some more or grab another connector and start over. Granted, most of my experience is with adding little accessories to the "inside" of the car, not out under the hood. The comments about sealing etc are definitely more important under the hood. Interesting thread this has turned into... Commuter

I haven't owned that many cars in my time, but I agree. Headlight bulbs, brakelight bulbs, yes. Interior lights? NO! I drive about 3 hours per day. My lights (and hence all the interior backlights, switch lights, etc.) are always on. I've change them 3 times now over 5 years. This would probably be once in 5 years for an average driver. Crazy. One of those things about being a Subaru-ite I guess. :-) Commuter

The light output was pathetic on my OB. The lenses are cloudy. (No, I haven't tried sprucing them up... and I should.) It was like I was driving with only my DRL's on. Others with the first generation OB's have also complained. I tried some blue no-name standard wattage bulbs. Maybe 5% better. :brolleye: I tried PIAA super duper 60W bulbs that are suppose to be like 110W bulbs. Very expensive. Somewhat better light, but splotchy. I was ok with it until a bulb blew at 4 months. (I did eventually get a replacement... long story.) I tried a wiring harness with 100W bulbs. Much better... but they didn't count on the DRL system in my Canadian OB. When I turned on the foglights, the headlights would switch from low beam to high beam! Something to do with ground switching in the curcuitry I was told. The cheap no-name bulbs never lasted more than 7 weeks either. :-\ So... I was left with adding driving lights, or taking a chance on higher wattage bulbs. After 1.5 years of messing with all of this, I elected to do the latter. Yes, I know, it's not the safest thing. But then, driving on the road is not the safest thing either! I use the DRL setting during the day to reduce the heat / current draw. Anyway, that's how I got to where I am. *shrug* The Eaglite bulbs I'm using have lasted a "long" time. They tell me that the hight xenon gas content helps them to run cooler than other makes of 100W bulbs. I know it's borderline. (Fingers crossed.) Commuter

A lot of things could cause this. Did you have the coolant changed lately? Or any servicing that would have caused the coolant to be draining and refilled? Yes, it can be t-stat, hoses, water pump, etc. But... (big but)... I hate to be the first to say it, but your year, age and mileage make you a prime candidate for head gasket failure. I'd check the coolant expansion bottle asap to see if you have any gooey oily looking sludge in there and/or bubbles coming up through it. I have a 97 OB myself... been there... bought the t-shirt. Commuter

I couple of years ago, while changing the wiper on my 97 OB, I noticed that the driver's arm seemed to be flexing. The nut was a little bit loose. I caught it just in time. I believe the windshield was changed on my vehicle by the former owner, but this would have been about 2 years or more prior to when this happened to me. You don't want to overtighten and strip it. One of those things... I guess an occasional one will work loose. Commuter

As per Subaru's instructions, tires are to be within 1/4" on the circumference. That amounts to just 1mm (sorry for mixed units) of tread depth variation. If you have a couple of good tires, you could see if anyone can shave new ones for you to bring them down to match. I don't know the cost of that, or how readily you could find the service. And I probably wouldn't bother if the old ones are more than a year or 2 old. Rubber ages, etc. Commuter

I'm running 90/100W bulbs in my 97 OB. The connectors get quite warm. The soft rubber boot that surrounds it has hardened and cracked, but the connector itself is ok. I've had these bulbs in for close to 3 years. Make sure the connection is good. I have to 'tighten' mine every so often. And keep it clean. I use some silicone dielectric grease. Go to a scrap yard and cut the connector off a car. This is what others have recommended. You'll want to be sure that you make a good connection with your existing wiring. I'm not sure what the best would be. (If I ever have to do this myself, I was thinking of using the household wire connectors, but the ones that have little set screw that tightens right down on the wire. Just my thought.) Commuter

This comes back to my point about "best". Ford is stating this oil on (some?) vehicles. Honda has switched over to it completely I think. Your comment about a narrower range as better is generally right. The wider the multi-viscosity oil, the more viscosity modifiers that are needed. It is usually these modifiers that begin to break down first. But... it depends on the nature and quality of the modifiers used. It's not quite that simple. Apparently, car manufacturers have to submit expected engine life as part of some EPA submissions. I have read that Ford and Honda cut the expected engine life figure substantially (about a third or more) for those engines that now use 5W20 oil. Ford had made absolutely no change at all to (some?) of the engines when this switch was made. So why you ask? Gas mileage. CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy). Gas mileage goes up by a couple tenths mpg with 5W20 vs 5W30. What was "best" in this case was in the interest of the manufacturer, not necessarily the consumer or the engine. Manufacturers have to meet certain CAFE numbers by regulation. A friend of mine bought a Honda Civic (2002). He went through quite a bit of red tape to finally get a letter from Honda saying that it was "ok" for him to use 5W30 oil. Personally, I use a 5W50 Synthetic oil. It is considered "ok" (well, by some and I agree) to go outside the numbers of the suggested range, just don't go "inside". In Europe, it is not uncommon to see specified oils with a XW40 grade. Commuter