lucid_door

Good for you pal, way to go +1 for repping Wisconsin too eh!

Crank sensor failing when it warms up? I had a Sebring a couple years ago drive me crazy for a day with random dies-while-drivings when it was warmed up; it never once set a crank sensor code, but on one drive I finally caught it hiccup on the scope pattern before it died again.

Hey good for you pal Always a good idea to dig a little and see what's out there; good luck keeping your Subarus on the road

Isn't that the damn truth LOL very well written points sir I certainly do as much as I can to give customers every option available, with the pros and cons of doing or not doing certain things. I always let them decide what they want to do after educating them as much as possible; I figure it's their money, they need to decide what they want to do with it. As long as I can give them as much info as possible to make that choice, I feel ok about whatever they want to do I know for sure when my replacement motor comes up for it's next belt change at 100k I'll be tossing in all new stuff so I don't have a repeat performance of a locked up idler

Why only do the job once when you can do it twice with more parts at three times the price LOL They're all filthy like that, every last one. Anyhow, I changed my belt at 200k and had an idler seize up at 217k, which wrecked the block and necessitated putting in a newer motor. I'd never do another belt without replacing the whole set of idlers, seals, tensioner, and water pump again; they're just so simple to do while you already have everything apart, and worth the peace of mind, not to mention keeping you from having to pay for the whole job again plus the parts that should have been done in the first place If you can't afford to do it right the first time, you certainly can't afford to do it twice.

All I can really add to the previous post is to second getting a swivel adapter for the bellhousing/starter bolts/nuts underneath, and an 18" extension, makes life really easy underneath. And make sure instead of pulling entire harnesses, just disconnect the great big plugs between the engine and body instead, piece of cake. Take it slow when you think you have everything removed and you're beginning the lifting procedure, just in case you catch on something or maybe missed a connector or hose somewhere. It's amazing how simple these engines are to remove.

I tried that many years ago to save a transmission in my 1978 Ford LTD. It lasted for 6 months, but then it lost 3rd, 2nd, and finally 1st, within 3 miles. Not so hot. I'd just figure out where the leak was and take care of it.

I seem to remember reading about how water pump impellers wear out and then don't push coolant through the system. How many miles on your water pump?

I remember doing ECU reprograms on tons of Buick/Olds/Pontiacs that would set an EGR code. GM determined that while installing a new valve would fix the code, their tolerances were too tight and the slightest film of buildup would cause another code to set even with the new valve. So we reprogrammed looser tolerances in for the EGR system. Same type of scenario; not really a malfunction as far as malfunctions go, just settings so strict it didn't allow for any real world usage.

My '90 does the same thing; never fails, if I try to limp wrist slam it shut, it always pops back out. I never gave it any thought, it's been doing that forever

My timing belt idler pullies made it to 217k miles before one of them seized up and tightened the bolt holding it on into the block so hard it tore a chunk the size of a gobstopper out of the block......... obviously no helicoiling that one back in LOL wrecked the block because of one little pulley. Definitely a must to replace them, speaking from experience.

Hah yeah that was a different thread LOL http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=111302 And thanks for the input, I haven't been able to find anything definitive on here about trans computer compatibility.

LOL it's ok pal!

So I just replaced the AWD auto trans in my 90 Legacy with a used unit, and I am noticing it has the same soft, slightly hesitant 2-3 upshift and 4-3 downshift the old transmission had, exactly how it behaved when I first got it with the original trans, 3 years later and 3rd gear goes out completely (the reason I had to get a different trans). It's just such an unsure shift compared to the snappy 1-2 and 3-4 shift. Not really wanting to burn up another transmission, I'm wondering if this is how they all shift, or would it be some common problem affecting both transmissions? Do the TCM's in these cars go out frequently, where it would cause the shifts into 3rd to be so soft? And if I do try a module, should I get one to match the year of the trans, or the year of the car (tranny is from a 94 wagon, mine is a 90 wagon)?

nipper makes a good point about engine specific oils. I hit 170k with my old 3.1 Corsica years ago with conventional, never burned a drop the entire time and it ran like a top when I finally sold it. I've been sold on synthetic for years now though. I had a Corolla with the 3 speed auto, and that thing would hit 4000 rpm on the interstate, and I ran Mobil 1 5-40 (the Delvac stuff they came out with for the Duramax when the 15-40 conventional proved to be too thick up here in Wisconsin winters LOL) in that vehicle for the 5+ years I owned that; really good oil, and it wouldn't burn off nearly as fast as any other oil I tried. I had to run conventional in my Trooper as well, as it had the classic Trooper head gasket leak; got rid of that with 140k on the clock. My Legacy's first engine hit 217k on MaxLife synthetic before one of the timing belt idlers seized and tore a big chunk out of the block; I always wonder how long it would have gone had that not happened. Speaking of vehicle specific, I can't wait until GM's new synthetic requirement comes out and I have to explain to the drivers of these vehicles why their oil change is going to cost 65$ minimum to keep their warranty. Hard enough getting the VW/Audi crowd to believe their owner's manual when I let them know what they should be using LOL

I use all Valvoline fluids: MaxLife Synthetic 5-30 in the motor, Synpower gear oil in the diffs, and MaxLife Synthetic ATF in the transmission and power steering. They make a good product

Just an update: Located a 3.900 rear diff at Badger Motors Auto Salvage in Wisconsin Rapids for a measly $90 (they even threw in a radio bezel for free, how awesome is that??), drove the 260 miles round trip yesterday, threw it in tonight and all is good Those little buggers are awfully heavy to hold over your head while lining up the cv shafts and getting a bolt started LOL Thanks for all the suggestions and information everyone, I sincerely appreciate it My Legacy is back on the road!

I recently swapped a used AWD auto trans/diff assembly into my 1990 Legacy wagon non turbo. The trans came from a 1994 Legacy, not sure of any other details on the donor. After finishing installation, I went to drive it, and the driveline was binding pretty bad; felt like I was dragging a boat anchor around. Now silly me didn't do my homework thoroughly enough to realize some of these cars came with different gear ratios in the differentials. I tried tossing the FWD fuse in but it didn't help at all. I removed the rear drive shaft, and the binding is gone (and that used tranny shifts awfully nice too, whew!). The tag on the rear diff states a 4.11 ratio. I guess what I'm wondering is, where could I look to find the ratio in the front diff? The old one had the drain plug exiting on the passenger side; new one exits to the driver's side. Is that useful in identifying anything? Would there be a part number or tag on it somewhere like the rear diff has? I've been looking online pretty hard to find something but have come up empty so far. Thanks for any help you can provide!

My name is John and I'm from Eau Claire, WI. I found this message board while searching for some specs on my Legacy. I love all the information here! I've had my Legacy for about 3 1/2 years, and in that time I have come to realize there isn't a thing that could possibly go wrong with these cars that would necessitate junking one. Well I suppose if it burned to the ground, but you know what I mean I picked my Legacy up for $150; the guy I bought it from was clueless and so was the shop he had taken it to to diagnose the running problem. They broke the idle air control valve trying to remove it (the electrical part on top) and took the timing components all off looking for a problem, which there was none. I put the timing stuff back on, wired the IAC open a hair, and unplugged the mass air sensor (the real problem) and drove it 60 miles home It was my first experience with a Subaru, and the first indication that I was going to enjoy owning one. I have done a fair amount of work on the car, including swapping in a low mileage engine/trans and lots of little things here and there. I'm going to drive it until the body rusts away LOL I hope I can be some help here and there with some of your questions as I am sure you will all be a big help with any of mine.