subarurage

I was able to use a easy out to get broken sensor out. It was a piece of cake:grin: I still get the Purge control solenoid valve code even after replacing it with a new one (I should have done GD solution) So car is running great but every once in a while smokes like a hell sometimes at start up and after going down hill for a while. I think I am going to sell so it fixes MY problem. Subaru's rock but not this one.

Yes it still does it so I am going to sell the car. That will fix MY problem.

Hey, Is it better to go with the dealer on these parts or the local auto parts store? Thanks 1992 Loyal 1.8 4X4

If your oil filler cap is loose there is a lose in vacuum and oil accumulates in the air cleaner housing. I had 82 carbed that had that problem It seems all pre 1994 subarus have loose oil filler caps just had it on my 92 loyal. You can either back it off slightly from all the way tight or bend the two lips on the underside of the cap. I like the back it off a bit method. Hate to bend metal to much or to many times. I would probably do what GD says to do also!

Turns out it is stuck closed thermostat.

Yo thanks Man, Had the hose going to heat exchanger blow after the heater was turned on inside the car and then of course coolant went bye bye and car overheated. Fixed hose added coolant but engine still over heats.

Freak'en funny thread but not:lol: Wife was driving home uphill (13 km's) from work turned on the interior heat and it blow a coolant hose and overheated. I was out of town and driving her car! Seems like it blow the hose because of some kind of blockage caused by turning on the heat. Theories many theories but fixed hose (hose was long enough to cut out break and reconnect) and filled up with water drove it for 5 minutes and it was on it way to overheat again:banghead: but I was home.

HI, I have the Haynes manual but it doesn't have a diagram of any of the coolant hoses. Is there a place I can find this online? Thanks

If your oil filler cap is loose there is a lose in vacuum and oil accumulates in the air cleaner housing. It seems all pre 1994 subarus have loose oil filler caps. You can either back it off slightly from all the way tight or bend the two lips on the underside of the cap. I like the back it off a bit method. Hate to bend metal to much or to many times. I would probably do what GD says to do also!

Who knows!!! I should have taken a bong rip first:-\ Anyone got an idea on how to get that ************ out now! I wired the sensor in place so it works but....

I am chasing a few problems with my newly acquired 1992 Loyal. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and tightened wwwwaaayyyy to much and it broke off leaving the threaded side in the block. LARGE L painted on my forehead. LOSER Freak:banghead:

I pulled the PCV value and it does rattle so I guess it is working fine. There was no heavy build up in the hoses anywhere. I am getting a CEL light saying that I have an issue with my Purge control solenoid valve. Would this cause the blue smoke system? The more I read the more it looks like the purge control solenoid valve has to do with the fuel system.

Good job Eulogious and others!!! PROBLEM SOLVED!! It was the CTS causing the poor running and no idle at cold start up. I replaced it and took it for a drive this morning and runs like a dream. I pulled a MAJOR BONE HEAD KNUCKLE DRAGGING :mad:move when installing new CTS. I over tightened the CTS so much that it snapped off leaving the threaded half in the the engine block and the other end with sensor attached dangling from the wire. :mad:I was able to stick the sensor back in its hole and use some aluminum tape to hold it in place and it seems to work. So my next question is how do I get the threaded end out of the block. I know chastise me all you want it was such a rookie move. I don't know what I was thinking tightening a piece of copper that tight. So one problem solved and another one created:mad: Oh yes the green corrosion I thought was on the CTS was really on the coolant temp dash board gauge sensor wire.

You should see why the CEL is on to start.

How do I check my PCV valve. Haynes says I can just take it off the hose and shake it but my valve is screwed into the the engine block. 1992 Loyal EA 82 SPFI Thanks

Hey, Another update! I finally got around to reading my codes that are turning on my CEL. 21 CTS I do get a build of green corrosion on the wire connection to the CTS 31 Throttle position sensor 35 Purge control solenoid valve As soon as I figure out how to get a resistant reading from my Multimeter I will be checking the the coolant temp sensor. Will update but two kids ages 3 and 5 keep me pretty busy. Thanks Boyz/Girlz

Wow that would be a bit of work! I saw on craiglist were someone is selling the engine in my area so I thought I would float the idea here since it sounds like my engine might be on it's way out. Thanks for the great response!

Hey Guys/Girls, Would it be possible to put a subaru EJ25D Engine in my 1992 Subaru Loyal manual transmission. What would I need to change? Thanks

Hey Eulogious, Thanks for that. I will test those components.

Sorry 1992 Loyal EA 82 Single port fuel injection. Sorry for confusion I didn't want to line up to many problems under one thread so thought I would spread it out a little. Thanks for your responses!! Engine has 240k kilometres (150K miles) on it. It seems to be strong but maybe the piston rings are still good but not value guide/seats

I live up in the mountians and today I drove 13 kilometers down hill so I did give it gas for 13 km's and then came to a stop at a stop light. While at stop light blue smoke start pouring into the car coming from the exhaust. I drive a block leaving a trial of blue smoke behind me and come to another stop light and it is still smoking. :mad:Then take off from that stop light and drive for about 4 blocks leaving trail of blue smoke and then smoke goes away. It normal doesn't smoke except when I coast or let off the gas in gear and then give it gas like mentioned above. Usually the time coasting (in gear) is short so I only get a little smoke. It seems the longer I coast (in gear) the more smoke I get. Any guess on what my issue is? I do get a check engine light after I drive a few blocks from start up. Supposedly PO said it was O2 sensor but replaced that and still get the light. Not sure if there is a short in the 02 sensor wire somewhere. I have tried to do the light flash self diagnoses but can't find the wires under my dash board that they show in the haynes manual. Furthermore there is something at looks wired into the my wiring harness and it not stock (little back box). Thanks for the help! I hate leaving a blue smoke everywhere:mad:

Now that it is summer It runs better when "cold" but I have a feeling that as soon as the cold temps hit I will be back to poor running. I have replaced the 02 sensor. I still get the check engine light coming on after I drive it a bit. There is still slight hesitation almost like it cutting out but not that bad when I give it lots of gas. It stills seems to have lot of power for a 1.8 litre. I guess we will wait until next winter to sort out cold running issue. I have run some gas drier and injector cleaner through it. Thanks.

I didn't own it then so I don't really know. I have ran a two-ish tanks through it and on the recent tank I put in some fuel system cleaner. I have only put a few kilometers on this recent tank with the system cleaner. Thanks

Hey, Here is an update. I haven't had much time to look at things but found two things that looked wrong. One of the hoses that goes to the valve cover from air intake boot was not connected. What I believe is the CTS (it is righ had a very corroded connection on the wire that comes off it. So I connected the hose up and cleaned the CTS wire connection which probably wasn't getting a connection before I cleaned the connection. Some other symptons I failed to mention in my initial post (sorry). 1. It wouldn't started warm or cold with out lightly pumping the gas pedal at start up. If it failed to start the first time you would then have to "floor it" to get it to start. This problem is NOW FIXED. It fires right up warm or cold but then dies if it is cold. 2. My check engine light comes on after I drive for a little bit and PO said it was the O2 sensor. It still won't idle when cold. When it is cold you can rev it up fine but as soon as you start to put torque to the engine (let out the clutch) it tries to dye and will buck as you try to start off. I have a repair book on order and hopefully soon will have more time to work on it. I also have a O2 sensor on order to. I also sprayed the inside of the throttle body and what I believe is the idle air controller the thing on the front of the throttle body that has hoses and a wire connected to it with Carb cleaner. One other thing is it sat all winter which I now isn't that good. Thanks for the help boyz.

Sorry! It is lame when the person with problem doesn't post what fixes it.