skishop69

You said AWD 5spd? This sound to me like a drivetrain binding issue. Like the center diff is locked or it's a 4wd and someone bumped it into 4wd while working or the linkage is out of adjustment.

Well crap. lol Learn something new every day! The relays in my Baja had the same setup iirc, but then again, I never had any electrical issues with it. Thanks for pointing it out so I don't do it again.

You're using an OBD2 set up? If it came from a car with an auto and ABS, you're going to run into issues with the SES being on all the time. As far as your relay, should be 4 pins. Pin 87 should go out to the fuel pump. Pin 30 should have 12v constant. These two pins are interchangeable depending on how the vehicle was wired. Pin 85 should have 12v constant and pin 86 should be the ground signal from the ECU to turn the relay on. These two pins are also interchangeable. If the relay is not turning on and you have no injector pulse from the ECU, you have either a power or ground issue to the ECU, bad ECU or, it's not receiving the theft deterrent signal it's expecting (if it had VTD) or some other sensor info from another module that's no longer there. You should have used and OBD1 engine and harness. Methinks you're in for some headaches.

The clutch bearing will not cause binding when the AC compressor is engaged since it's not moving then. When the clutch is engaged, it magnetically clamps the pulley to the compressor shaft powering the compressor. When it is disengaged. the pulley freewheels on the bearing and the shaft doesn't move. If your description of it locking up when engaged is accurate, replacing the clutch bearing will do you no good. Your compressor is going out.

OK, let's everybody cool down a bit. We are trying to tell you it's a bad idea, because it's been done with tons of money thrown at it with less than spectacular results. I've done performance engine building, performance tuning and programming to OBD1 vehicles and I can tell you this: When you start out, THERE IS A LOT OF TRIAL AND ERROR, which will hit you in the pocket book. In order to build an engine that is capable of 1HP per cubic inch, you will spend thousands. BTDT You MUST start with a platform that has the ability to accept the performance gains you're looking for. The ER27 simply does not have that. By design, the heads and the intake flow like molasses in January. No amount of porting or custom one off intake is going to fix that. Second, the rods and bearings will NOT take it. Years ago I picked up an ER27 to do just what you're thinking and drop it in my Brat. I had access to computer modeling for performance builds and a friend with a Masters degree in internal combustion engine design who now works for Roush Racing. The end result of countless hours of modeling and reworking engine components was this: The most this engine will make is 250HP after porting the heads, building custom rods, running 12psi of boost, high volume fuel pump with a controller, Z car injectors, MSD coil and ignition controller, stand alone fuel management with sensitive knock control, forged pistons with molly rings from Ram engines, custom copper head gaskets from Flatout Gaskets, an intercooler and numerous other bits and pieces. We did think we could make 300 (maybe) if we did custom rod bearings, cryo treated the crank so it wouldn't grenade, Timesert'd the case to accept head studs instead of bolts and turned up the boost. All for a measly 6 grand estimated total at which point, he was certain the case would explode like Hiroshima. Doubling the horse power of an ER27 and making it RELIABLE (which it barely was in the first place) is going to set you back at least a few thousand. There is a reason it was executed from the Subaru line up so quickly. They realized they f*cked up, pardon my French. The engine, by performance standards, is a worthless, steaming pile of cow dung. Figuratively speaking. lol Everyone has a dream, and people should respect those dreams. The reality is, we are playing Devil's advocate here with experience in the aforementioned pile of dung and trying to save you from flushing money and time down the toilet with no happy ending in sight. 250HP can NOT be accomplished using available parts and it was a fact I had to accept with years of building experience under my belt. We're really trying to help here and point out the shortcomings of this engine.

What GD said. I wouldn't bother. It's been done, and although it would be fun, parts are scarce to non existent. If you do go through with it, be aware you're going to be into a full rebuild somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500-$2000 with machining, headwork and parts. Then you have to start factoring in all the extras to add the turbo, make it work, etc. I certainly wouldn't slap a turbo on an old ER27 and run it. It will bite it in short order.

Good job on the coupler. I can't help you with the resistor. It's been awhile since I built my harness but I don't remember there being a ballast resistor in there. Someone will know.

+1 I would just swap the tranny and rear diff if necessary. I would NEVER opt to install and EA82 in place of an EA81. Not saying it's a bad motor, but it has many more things that can and will go wrong if you're not vigilant with maintenance. I do not believe pounding a dent in the rail will allow for proper clearance either. Iirc, you can't drop an EA82 into an EA81 body that hasn't been lifted without cutting an welding. Not to mention, if you did somehow manage to shoehorn it in there, now you can't do any valve cover, cam tower or head gasket work to it with the engine in the car. Nope, wouldn't do. Definitely wouldn't do it. Nope. Definitely. Yeah, bad idea. Definitely. lol

+1 There's no connectors (or harness by the firewall) to connect the engine harness to and it'd not there either. 93 won't be carbed.

lol Like I said, it happens. It's a goofy a$$ set up for sure compared to the rest of the industry. Glad you got it running.

I'm going to say this just because I can't tell you how many times I've heard the belts are correct and the timing is on and it ended up being one or the other. Using an FSM, double/triple check you're belt installation and distributor install referencing cyl #1. Did you perform an actual compression test? If it is all correct, pull a spark plug, put the wire back on it, hold it to the head and have someone crank the engine while you look to see if you actually have spark. If it ran before the reseal, then you got the belts wrong, distributor in wrong, missed a ground or connector. It happens. None of us are perfect. I've got an 87.5 XT GL10 and the first time I did the belts, I screwed it up and I've got 20+ years in the field. lol Spark, fuel and air/compression. Miss any one of the three, no go. You could try some starting fluid if you have some.

Did you see it leaking in under the carb? If you didn't see any corrosion on the intake where the carb mounts and you've got the right gasket, I'd say you could have a leaking intake manifold gasket on one or both sides of the intake.

+1 on the radiator. It's partially plugged. It has enough capacity to cool at lower revs and short bursts of revving, but not enough capacity to cool at sustained highway revs. Seen it many times over the years.

Glad to hear it! That one is a rare gem and it would have been very saddening had it not been found. Hopefully the police will get prints and nab the dirtbags.

You have an 86 Brat, correct? They did not come with rear seats. The mounting holes and metal bars you have are more or less a 'headache rack'. They won't accept headrests for two reasons. First, the headrests are adjustable and come as an assembly with the track so you can move them up and down. The assembly bolts to a tab below the upper bed trim above the window and a to bracket about 10" up from the bottom of the bed. Second, the mounts for the headache rack are in the wrong position. If you were to modify them so the headrest assembly would bolt on, they would not line up to the center of the seats by at least a few inches. You could fab mounts for the assemblies, but you would need the seats first so you could get them centered in place to know where the headrest mounts go. If it is an 86 and has the rear seats, someone put them in.

That is just F'd up and wrong. I'm down south, but I'll keep an eye open. "Shoot first, shoot later, shoot some more, then when everybody's dead, try and ask a question or two."

+1 Yes, if it's not PS, the older VW polyurethane coupler is a direct fit.

Ummmmm.... wow! Ummmmm.... that steering 'linkage' has got to go. Waaaay unsafe. You can't have a double cardan joint like that and a flex coupler. Not only will that thing be all over the road and near impossible to steer at high speeds, the flex coupler is only designed to take sheering (twisting) loads, not lateral (side to side) loads. With the lower shaft as long as it is and having the double cardan, you're going to introduce lateral loading and that flex coupler is going to tear in a matter of months (depending on how much you drive). Add to that the extra force required to turn due to bigger tires and the lift plus wheeling forces and you've got a recipe for disaster. Lot's of people have lifted with only minor modifications to the steering linkage using what was there originally, but something doesn't look quite right with your angles and lengths. Get rid of that double cardan and put the single back in. If you're absolutely set on using it, you'll need to remove the flex coupler and replace it with a steel plate and then add a support bearing at the top of the shaft just below the lower cardan. If you don't add the support bearing, the lateral loading introduced will wipe out the the rack input shaft bearing and seal. You could also cut down the lower shaft to say, 4", fab an intermediate shaft of the appropriate length with a u-joint on each end and install it in between, but you'd still need to take the flex coupler out and put in a steel plate. The trans linkages will have to be cut and welded through trial and error for them to fit in the EA81. Jerry (Bratsrus) sells a kit to install the DR 5 spd in the EA81's. PM him if you don't want to fab the linkages.

Again, what do you need? 'Suspension' for the front includes: Struts, springs, control arms & bushings, ball joints, radius arms & bushings, tie rod ends and strut hats. I seriously doubt you need it all.

Ok, first off, I see they failed you for no air injection so the carb issue is moot unless that's dealt with. I'm assuming the plumbing and valves are still there on each exhaust 'manifold' and the guy doesn't know what he's looking at. No surprise there. If the components are missing, you need to get them back on or you will fail the visual inspection. Now let's get to the HC & CO failures. You are correct that they are happening at idle so your problem should be simple. You're getting too much fuel on the idle circuit. The idle mixture screw is on the front of the carb at the base. With the car warmed up and running, turn the screw all the way in til it stops. Don't crank it down hard, seat it gently. The car should die or at the very least, barely run. If it does, back the screw out to one turn and restart the car. As it idles, back the screw out til the idle smooths out. Should be between 2-3 turns, no more then 3.1 1/2- 2 is optimal. When you find the spot where backing it out doesn't affect idle quality, turn it back in 1/4 turn. You'll also need to play with the idle screw during this adjustment to keep the idle around 800rpm. If the car doesn't die or run like crap, then you have a vacuum leak or you're dumping fuel in through the primary circuit or your accelerator pump is leaking. Look at the choke plate when it's warmed up as well. It should be fully open. If not, you need to find out why it's not opening. That will cause fuel to be pulled in through the primary circuit at idle.You can also take the idle mixture screw all the way out and blow compressed air into the hole and this will clean out debris that may be blocking the air bleed portion of the idle circuit. Fixed many a Subaru idle issue this way.

What were the actual readings for the idle and cruise tests?

Set your meter to DC volts, range-12v. Place one lead on the plug hex and the other lead on the negative battery post and take your reading. It's not possible for a coil to put out more voltage than spec without cranking up the input voltage. Output is based on the number of windings inside the coil and the gauge of the windings. Even then, I've run 80,000 & 100,000 volt coils on vehicles and never seen anything like what you're describing. I suppose the coil could have an internal high resistance short to ground and be feeding back into the electrical system but I doubt it.

Sounds to me like they're giving you the wrong plugs, or you've got a ground issue. You need to do a voltage drop reading from the hex head of the spark plugs to the negative post of the battery. It should be less than 1V. I can tell from experience that resistance readings for a circuit that carries a load don't mean squat. You can have no resistance and still not be able to carry a load.

I'm not dissing the idea. Like I said, I think it's great for an off road rig. I've just been down this road and ended up back at the beginning. Even Jackson said he was worried about getting a ticket and it was pointed out that the lights were listed by Hella as off road only. Yeah, the cops don't really care if they're covered even though they're supposed to be but they're really starting to crack down on aftermarket assemblies that aren't DOT approved because of all the complaints they get.

It's going to be dealer only if it's still available. They are Subaru specific and not serviceable by any aftermarket latch I've come across.